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El Bulli 2007 reports


smoz

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my wife had an excellent dish of very thin ham draped over a white mound of something tasty we could not identify (this did not show up on our menu, so we are literally clueless).

When we went one of the replacement dishes for the lambs brains was ham over a potato foam, could this be what your wife had?

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Just to give all of you some inside news from the elBulli kitchen...today Ferran said in his morning speech that for next season they are planning on opening Wednesday through Sunday all season long. As you all know they open Wed-Sun from April-June and then everyday from July- Sept. But apparently this is the last year they will do that. Starting 2008 they will close 2 days a week every week.

So that means that the already very limited 8000 seats available per season is gonna go down in the future years.

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Just to give all of you some inside news from the elBulli kitchen...today Ferran said in his morning speech that for next season they are planning on opening Wednesday through Sunday all season long. As you all know they open Wed-Sun from April-June and then everyday from July- Sept. But apparently this is the last year they will do that. Starting 2008 they will close 2 days a week every week.

So that means that the already very limited 8000 seats available per season is gonna go down in the future years.

Wow, that is big news, but that beats them closing altogether which has been rumored.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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Just to give all of you some inside news from the elBulli kitchen...today Ferran said in his morning speech that for next season they are planning on opening Wednesday through Sunday all season long. As you all know they open Wed-Sun from April-June and then everyday from July- Sept. But apparently this is the last year they will do that. Starting 2008 they will close 2 days a week every week.

So that means that the already very limited 8000 seats available per season is gonna go down in the future years.

Wow, that is big news, but that beats them closing altogether which has been rumored.

im so glad ive got my table this year and not hoping for next year boy its going to get even tougher but as doc says glad its still running even on shorter weeks

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Just to give all of you some inside news from the elBulli kitchen...today Ferran said in his morning speech that for next season they are planning on opening Wednesday through Sunday all season long. As you all know they open Wed-Sun from April-June and then everyday from July- Sept. But apparently this is the last year they will do that. Starting 2008 they will close 2 days a week every week.

So that means that the already very limited 8000 seats available per season is gonna go down in the future years.

Nice to hear from you gabriel how is it going down there i hope the spaniards are nice to you. Could you pm me the oyster yogurt recipe it sounds amazing thanks

/mAg

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I think that this is most likely potato foam under the ham. In any case it was an enormously enjoyable dish.

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This dish, called clam/octopus, has not shown up on some other recent menus. It was one of the more complex dishes we had. Upon first taste, my wife felt it was not one of the more successful. But as we got into it, I thought it was among the most fascinating. I think the black 'bubbles' on the bottom were little capsules of squid ink or something similar. It gave the dish a peppery slant that few of the other dishes had.

Coming right after the 'asparagus in different cooking times' it was especially dramatic.

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Here's my last image of a dish that others have not posted. It's marinated mackerel belly - chicken and onion "escabeche". It came right after the peas with artichokes puree - a pure expression of springtime, and before the hare juise which preceded the rabbit brains. Thus this was the transition into the final protein statement. It was a terrific dish (sorry that I did not feel like taking notes during the dinner so I'm probably coming up a bit short on the descriptions of each dish's taste) - absolutely one of the high points. In addition to the pure taste of the marinated mackerel, I think the picture shows the multiplicity of other elements it rhymed with.

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Just some random information. As you may all know chefs from all over go to dine at elBulli every year. So far in the first 2 months the following world known chefs have come that I can remember:

- Pierre Herme

- Michel Troisgros

- Jose Andres (opening day)

- Grant Achatz

- Neil Perry

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:wink:

Just some random information. As you may all know chefs from all over go to dine at elBulli every year. So far in the first 2 months the following world known chefs have come that I can remember:

- Pierre Herme

- Michel Troisgros

- Jose Andres (opening day)

- Grant Achatz

- Neil Perry

I can imagine........

Hmm, I wonder if they have to send in their request and cross their fingers to get in!!

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Catanias Saladas or "Salty Catanias". these were an elBulli version of a classic Catalan chocolate-almond bon-bon. Though somewhat bitter on their own, they married perfectly with the following dish when eaten either directly before or after.

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Fritas de Fruta These pineapple "fries" tasted better than the best pineapple while supplying the wonder of how they managed to do it in the first place.

A couple of clarifications. The "salty catanias" are walnuts dipped in walnut praline and coated with cocoa powder. The pineapple "fries" are pineapple cut into the shape of "fries" then freeze dried .

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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One thing worth mentioning. While the pace of dishes later in the meal is one or two at a time, during the 'snacks' portion you are bombarded by possibilities. This picture shows a number of 'snacks' served all at once. The instructions (i.e. eat this portion of the dish in a specific way before another portion of the dish) are much more relaxed at the very beginning.

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  • 2 weeks later...

:angry: Guys. First of all I want to thank you all for your suggestions for my trip to Spain culminated by my hard to get reservation at The Food Gods restauarant El Bulli.Second, i want to officially say that it was the most dissapointing food experience that I could experience. After eating at the real Food God , Joel Robuchon, the Mansion in Vegas and Jamin in Paris in the 80s as well as the Fat Duck, and The French Laundry , Ferran is nothing but a pretender and should be dubbed the Food Ghost.

It all started well with a trip to the kitchen and a greeting by the the Ghost himself, picture will be uploaded later,a drink and snacks on the patio,the drink a cosmopolitan-mallow that really was spectacular and whetted our appetite until the snacks came , except for the olives the rest were as dull and tasteless as bulls testicles,sesame sponge cake with miso was the ulimate of the tasteless and useless snacks that were served at such a pace that we had to ask the servers to slow down.At the beginning of the snacks the Sommelier so dull I forgot his name kept on rushing over for us to order the red wine while we were were enjoying the white, what was his hurry , we were there for 5 hours.

After at least 12 snacks, we were led to the dinning room for the mains, which were culminated by the noisette butter with rabbit brains, gulp and gone why bother except for the picture. We did finish our mediocre Red recommended by the sommilier for only 100 euros, and did never see him after he took the order, not even to open or to ask us how we enjoyed it.

The desserts more of the same pretty pictures without substance, a lesson from Robuchon might help here,. Luckily, I brought my Partagas #4 to finish the again dull morphings and a unspectacular Spanish Muscato .Even luckier my wife brought some trail mix with M and Ms to eat something with substance for the night.

Angry, not about the night I came and tasted and do now recognize Robuchon as the Food God of our time with Blumenthal a close second but over the fact that I asked for months to let another couple to join us even two days before I was asked to call and was rejected.These same friends who we spent three great nights in Barcelona with, with the help of a friend of a friend of a friend got a table at El Bulli on two nights notice,at this point I can now rename Ferrian the Food Whore

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I'm truly sorry you had such a negative experience. Barring the possibility of a total kitchen melt-down the night you were there, which I highly doubt, it seems that either we have very different (though not totally given some of the places you mentioned positively) palates or something else was at play. Do you care to elaborate on the issue with your friends? My understanding based on what you wrote is that they did not allow you to increase the size of your party, but other friends got a table on short notice. If this is correct, the explanation may be quite simple. They are geared for specific party sizes and were unable to increase the size of your party without disrupting table service, while your other friends got lucky with a table of the same party size from a late cancellation. While it may seem simple to increase a table size by a party of two, that would be a problem if done routinely given the number of table requests that they have and the number of people looking to dine there. If they did it for one party it would be difficult to not do it for others, creating potentially huge problems for the restaurant. On the other hand, if a last minute cancellation occurs, why not fill it with some party lucky enough (perhaps not lucky in your estimation after all) to call at the right time?

I would also be curious to know what dishes you had. Some dishes certainly push psychological boundaries and others taste boundaries, but others, especially the snacks I had, were dense with flavor and textural interest.

The wine story mystifies me, as it is far from my experience there, but I can see how it can happen. Do you recall the specific wine recommended?

I have also had extremely disappointing meals at highly regarded and anticipated restaurants. It is a bummer and I share your pain in this regard as few meals come more highly anticipated than one at elBulli. Unfortunately, for whatever reason, it does happen even at the very best of places, which to me elBulli remains.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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http://www.typicallyspanish.com/news/publi...cle_11146.shtml

Spanish chef, Ferrán Adría, to concentrate on cooking

The owner of El Bulli says he is to abandon his business interests from next year

Top Spanish Chef, and owner of the famous El Bulli Restaurant, Ferrán Adría, has said that he will be giving up all his business interests after 2008 to concentrate solely on cooking.

He gave the news during the presentation of two new Spanish books about his famous restaurant. Adría currently owns several companies including a publishing company, and a catering company and is an advisor for NH Hotels.

But after all the business success he now says all he really wants is to be happy, and he would be going back to basics.

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http://www.typicallyspanish.com/news/publi...cle_11146.shtml

Spanish chef, Ferrán Adría, to concentrate on cooking

The owner of El Bulli says he is to abandon his business interests from next year

Top Spanish Chef, and owner of the famous El Bulli Restaurant, Ferrán Adría, has said that he will be giving up all his business interests after 2008 to concentrate solely on cooking.

He gave the news during the presentation of two new Spanish books about his famous restaurant. Adría currently owns several companies including a publishing company, and a catering company and is an advisor for NH Hotels.

But after all the business success he now says all he really wants is to be happy, and he would be going back to basics.

This sure beats the rumor over recent years that elBulli would close.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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He should stay with his business interests, I dont think anything can help his cooking. He can go the lab and try to find a recipe for fish or meat that can satisfy ones chewing ability than there gulping ability.He needs to visit Robuchon or Blumenthal.

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You cannot despise Ferran Adrià's impact in the world of good food based on a single personal bad experience at his restaurant. He is part of history now, as Robuchon and Ducasse, and the Troisgros brothers and Bocuse in their time. It's too pedestrian a reasoning. I was reading your site, all your criticism is done in a haste, full of typos and misiterpretations. I think this is not the best way to tell what you call truth.

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It's weird how those closing rumors are always around, but I've even asked some of the staff here and they say every year there is a rumor that it will be their last. So I wouldn't pay attention to any closing rumors.

Like I said before, they have confirmed that next season they will open from Wednesday through Sunday every week of the 6 months. So there definitely will be a 2008 season.

As far as other activities, one big factor to take into account is that very soon the ALICIA ("Alimentacion y Ciencia" or "Science and Nutrition" in English) Foundation is opening. You can read about it more at their website. Ferran talked about it the first day of the season and he seems very excited, and from what I've heard they will move a lot of the activities of elTaller over to the ALICIA headquarters when they open and the season is over. So maybe Ferran will be spending a lot more time there doing research and everything.

Also he has a lot of advisor's and people that work with him that used to be old elBulli employees, who handle all his business and things like NH Hotels and other consultancies. That is what elBulli Carmen is dedicated to. So I'm sure they can keep taking care of all the business aspects even if he decides to step back from the business side.

So we just have to wait and see what the future holds. They have been busy taking pictures of all the dishes this season, so it is very likely that by early next year the 2006-2007 volume book will come out.

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ALICIA should be something special. I had the opportunity to see it just as they were starting work on it a few years ago. It was a pretty rundown old set of buildings. I didn't get to see it recently, but my friends tell me that the work has come along beautifully. I believe that there will be a hotel there as well.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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I've been there 3 weeks ago, amazing project, a 80 rooms hotel, an experimental kitchen, two conference rooms, and lots of projects (they have one book made for the Spanish Society Against Cancer that is a generous and beautiful idea: Ruscalleda, Arola and Adrià proposing different menus for some consequences of quimioterapy etc) all around an astonishing thousand year monastery. It will have a real impact on the ways we eat.

ALICIA should be something special. I had the opportunity to see it just as they were starting work on it a few years ago. It was a pretty rundown old set of buildings. I didn't get to see it recently, but my friends tell me that the work has come along beautifully. I believe that there will be a hotel there as well.

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The report of Ferran Adria stepping back from the business side is interesting. Since last November Heston Blumenthal has been doing exactly the same, passing up ownership (and I believe, directorship) of the Fat Duck etc. For Heston, this broadly coincided with a new business manager being appointed (and him getting a more commercial profile – acting as judge on sponsored competitions, appearing on adverts, etc).

I can fully appreciate the very large amount of time taken in running a business – all of it unproductive, save for the platform it creates to do more (and hopefully better) things. Many entrepreneurs start off following a dream and then the reality of running a business kicks in!

Unfortunately, the world of high profile celebrities from all walks of life is littered with business managers who have taken advantage of their position. I can only hope that Ferran and Heston have built in some independent scrutiny to avoid the potential problem.

If it means that Ferran and Heston can continue to plough their creative and highly innovative approach and excite us again and again, then I’m not complaining. And don't you think it’s even better if they can get the financial rewards at the same time?

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I’m a new member and had dinner at El Bulli last week for the first time. I was surprised by the number of dishes that were different from other recent reports.

Here’s a photo of the menu we had.

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I noticed that the menu of the first report this season from smoz included quite a number 2006 dishes like liquid croquette, parmesan frozen air, raisins of px, zucchini risotto, the sea and crab marrakech.

I think the only dish we had that was already on the menu last year was the spherical olives. Our meal was closest to the one oanababy had but there were some significant changes.

Here are photos and comments on dishes (or variations of dishes) that haven’t been posted before

Gold Nugget

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Only a minor variation. It’s a gold rather than a silver nugget. The nugget consisted of a mix of rice and curry (and was painted with a special emulsion so that a camera can’t put it in focus :wink:)

Pork Skin

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This was served instead of the rice crackers in previous reports. The crunchy balls were made out of Iberian ham. I wouldn’t have minded a bag full of them to take home...

Pistachios Sponge Cake With Acid Milk Mousse

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Variation of the pistachio sponge cake. The meringue was very dry, salty and fragile and fit extremely well with the soft milk mousse.

Fresh Pine-Cone And Pinions Dacqoise

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This replaced the flowers paper (although my girlfriend got this dish later as part of her vegetarian menu). This dish was again described as a meringue to us but its texture was completely different from the previous meringue dish. In between the two outer layers was the soft pine nut butter cream. If you took one bite it melted immediately in your mouth.

Fever-Tree Tonic Meringue With Strawberries

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Yet another meringue. This served as a palate cleanser. Very light and it reminded us of our openinge cockatail (a cosmopolitan). Below the meringue you can see on the photo was a scoop of lemon sorbet with mint.

Dashi

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I’m not sure if this is the right spelling for this dish as it was handwritten in our menu. I had asked before the start of our dinner not to be served any blue cheese so I got this instead of the gorgonzola dome (which my girlfriend had and which I liked despite my dislike for gorgonzola). This was miso caviar served out of a caviar can like Adria’s famous melon&passionfruit caviar. What is difficult to see on the photo is that the caviar sits on a transparant layer of tunafish jelly that the plate was filled with. The miso and the tuna worked very well together.

Risotto of Citrics

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This was one of my favourites among the many highlights of the menu. It’s a warm dish of grapefruit, coconut and sesame that your are asked to eat together. It’s a simple mix of flavours but one I’ve never tasted before.

Razor Clams with Laurencia

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A variation of the razor clams this came with warm seaweed.

Shark Fin with Shimensi

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This was in fact chicken with mushroom. Probably the title was meant as a joke, maybe it was a printing mistake but I doubt anyone was actually served shark fin.

The chicken jelly came in one piece and was warm. The mushrooms tasted great but this was the dish I liked least of all. Actually, from all the menu the „main“ fish/meat dishes were the least successful ones in my opinion. I was much more ecstatic and surprised by the starters and the desserts than by some dishes of the middle part. As my girlfriend had ordered a vegetarian menu I could taste a vegetarian alternative each time I received a fish or meat dish and to my own surprise I preferred the veggie dishes in almost every case (usually this is the opposite: how many three star restaurants are there that offer vegetarian degustation menus? And how many are there that come up with a special vegetarian dish for each course that bears no resemblance to the meat/fish dish). I think my brain finds it too difficult to translate a chicken flavoured jelly into the same delight that I would have felt if the same flavour came as a hot soup or a freshly roasted piece of meat (while my brain doesn’t have these problems when it comes to vegetables or fruits).

I’m in some conflict here. On the one hand I consider Adria’s quest for a pure essence one of his greatest achievements. And one reason why I loved his menu so much is that he achieved maximum lightness with maximum flavour. BrianZ mentioned in his recent spring break report that he’s „still at that point in (his) eating life where (he)’d rather eat 10+ very small thing than 4 more substantial items, even if the four items are of marginally higher average quality than the selection of ten.“ The same is true for me and in this regard the 26 courses I ate at El Bulli made me feel like a king. I just wish I would have liked dishes like the chicken with mushroom more.

Just as an example: the two meals I had previously to the dinner at El Bulli were lunch at Rafa’s in Roses and a degustation menu the day before at Can Roca (I plan to post a report of my meal there in the next couple of days) in Girona.

Gambas at Rafa

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Kid With Goat Milk Parmentier at Can Roca

Both these dishes were absolute fantastic and I would say that in their simplicity they both presented the essence of what prawns or kid should taste like. But I found them far more enjoyable than the meat/fish dishes at El Bulli that evening (with the exception of the Haricot bean with Joselito Panceta). It strikes me as a bit unfair to compare both dishes to the ones at El Bulli and I also think that I would have rated other Ferran dishes like sea cucumber, crap marrakesh or espardenyes (which weren’t part of the menu) higher. But I was wondering about the opinions from other eGullet members of have eaten at El Bulli regarding this.

Skate

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The fish was accompanied by pine cream and seaweed. This was the third time that seaweed was used as part of a dish. I’m not a particularly big fan of seaweed so I could have one without it.

Eel Beef Marrow

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This was meant to be eaten from left to right. The eel and beef on a leaf first followed by the flower that the cucumber. I found this to be the most most successful of the fish/meat dishes.

Noisette Butter with Rabbit Brains

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So rabbits instead of lamb. I think the jelly in the picture was made with Worcester sauce. It was the first time I had rabbit brains and while I thought the taste was fine I didn’t enjoy eating them all that much.

Torta Canarejal with Red Fruits

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This was a warm rasberry sheep cheese fondue with kirsch air.

Sweet Frost Fruits

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We had blackberrys instead of the rasberrys in docsconz’ dessert. You had to eat this very fast as otherwise the liquid of the fruit would have destroyed the meringue shell. At one point a few dishes before I thought that I couldn’t eat any more. However, I would loved to have a few more of these frost fruits.

Peach

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Peach ice cream instead of the tangerine one.

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After this dish we were asked if we wanted to go outside and sit on the terrace for a coffee and the morphings jellys. By that time it was 1am. It was a beautiful early summer night and the only sound you could hear was the crashing of the waves. Ferran Adria came outside to chat to his guests. It was a great end to a memorable evening.

Here you can view photos of all the dishes we had:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9315410@N05/s...7099591/detail/

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Excellent report and photos, Neu and welcome to the eGullet Society! One important thing that your report shows clearly is the constant metamorphosis going on at elBulli as dishes are constantly being tweaked. I'm not sure that results necessarily need to be better so long as they are different and not worse. I also think that you touched on an interesting aspect of a meal at elBulli. The snacks are clearly the most approachable and "fun" aspect of the meal. The flavors tend to be very pure and emphatically delicious (at least to most who have them :wink: ). In addition the textures and presentations offer amusing surprises that highlight Adria's sense of playfulness. The main body of the meal becomes much more challenging to one's concept of delicious and forces one to appreciate a dish on a number of levels. While I have never had a dish at elBulli that I haven't enjoyed, some have resonated with me more than others. During my most recent meal, the haricot bean with Joselito was clearly one of the most delicious and one of my favorites, but it was also one of the most familiar. The brains probably pushed me the most, but I also found them to be very enjoyable. These dishes are not straightforward ones that rely on purity of flavor the way the snacks do. They are complex and often challenge preconceived notions - more than most other restaurants. While they don't always hit homeruns for every diner, I find that they are rarely major failures either. That is remarkable considering the uniqueness of the menu and the sheer number of creations that arise from the Adria and his team.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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El Bulli at Documenta

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The day we visited was the second one that El Bulli was part of the German art exhibition Documenta which takes places every five years in Kassel. I don’t know how much press Adrian’s inclusion as the first chef in one of the most important contemporary art exhibitions got outside of Spain and Germany. Judging from the view articles I read in the English edition of El Pais I had the impression that the Spanish press focused on the question if food can or should be considered an art form like painting or sculpturing. In Germany there was an unprecedented number of articles on single cook in the last couple of weeks. Every major newspaper and weekly magazine had major articles and interviews with Adria. However, the size of media awareness was opposite to the knowledge of most of the features. Almost all the articles were written by journalists who had never eaten any of Adria’s dishes (which, of course, is not easy taken the difficulty in getting a reservation at El Bulli in the last couple of years) and many just focused on the more spectacular side of „molecular gastronomy“.

Adria was the first artist that was announced as being chosen for the Documenta late last year. And ever since there had been a lot of speculation what he would actually „exhibit“ there. Apparently Adria didn’t know himself. He consulted Juan Mari Arzak’s daughter Marta who works at Guggenheim Bilbao and reportedly was close to pulling out of taking part at the Documenta as he realized that he couldn’t simply transport his kitchen to Germany and that putting up photos of his signature dishes wouldn’t be much of an alternative either. What he would do was only disclosed two weeks ago at the start of the Documenta. A menu was put up on a wall and a table was reserved for two persons for the duration of the Documenta at El Bulli. This solution was both – an anti-climax and only logical but it received lots of bad press in Germany. It was said that the director of the Documenta would randomly pick two visitors of the Documenta each day (for each day that El Bulli is open that is) and fly them to Spain to have dinner there. However, the day of our visit the Documenta guests were somewhat less arbitrarly chosen. They were employees of the Documenta and were seated at the first table to the left. On the day before the visitor chosen was another artist who exhibits at the Documenta.

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