Cal Campaner - The alternative to Rafa's

[GeordieSteve]

This weekend I found myself in Roses without the phone number for Rafa's and with no way to book a table. Unsurprisingly, then, at lunchtime we were disappointed to find the place completely booked out.

The lady working with Rafa (called Rosa I think) recommended Cal Campaner, on c/ Mossem Carles Feliu, 23 (tel 972 25 69 54). She said that it was "just like us, the same quality".

So we trekked up the hill to find a tiny restaurant, typical of any barrio in Spain: football team scarves and posters, ancient decorations, lots of photos etc. Cal Campaner was also packed with families, not a tourist in the place, but when I said that we'd been sent from Rafa's they said they'd try to find a table for us later.

I'm glad we waited: it was exceptional. We ate clams (almejas), baby clams, spiny sea urchins and oysters. Then we had sepia, rodaballo and gallo. The fish was shown to us before we ate, then quickly griddled. Then a selection of homemade desserts. We had wine, coffee, pan amb tomaquet... and the bill was 120 euros for 4 people. I thought they'd made a mistake but that really was the price. We saw a succession of delicious-looking fish dishes and paella coming out of the kitchen which left us happy, full but frustrated at not being able to eat all of it! The service was friendly and the customers were all having a great time.

I had a brief chat with the owner, a very amiable man whose name I have sadly forgotten. He has pictures of "his good friend" Ferran Adrian on the walls, who he meets often with Rafa at the fish market.

Cal Campaner shouldn't be regarded as a second-rate Rafa's: it is an excellent restaurant in its own right.

[Christopher Haatuft]

Sounds really good! Those experiences is what makes Spain such a great place to travel.

[Judith Gebhart]

Dear Cal: Your input is an exceptional contribution to diners in the Roses area especially if you are looking for highly rated seafood and fish dishes.

Thank you for your informative report. We have been elBulli diners for the last 10 years. We have never found an alternative dining experience in Roses that seemed to match Rafa's menu. That reality is due to the fact that we were unaware of what downtown Roses had to offer the uninformed diner. Hope other eGulleteers are aware of this altnerative dining option. Try it. Judith Gebhart