Substitution of cocoa butter for couverture

[David Israel]

I'm wondering what guidelines you could share for substituting cocoa butter for a portion of the chocolate in a ganache recipe, to reduce the sweetness while maintaining the same consistency?

For example, Wybauw has a recipe for a butter truffle with Kirsch, which uses milk chocolate in the ganache. I've made the recipe in the past, using candied orange zest and Grand Marnier in place of the Kirsch, and it's great. I'd like to adapt the recipe using white chocolate, to make a truffle with candied lemon zest. However, I'm concerned that replacing the specified quantity of milk chocolate with white (recognizing that a larger quantity of white would be required to result in a similar consistency) would make the ganache too sweet. So, I thought replacing a portion of the white chocolate with cocoa butter would reduce the sweetness. However, I didn't know what amount of cocoa butter to use (e.g., 10% of the total initial quantity of white chocolate?).

I'd appreciate any guidance my eGullet compatriots could provide!

David

[nduran]

I suppose it depends on the brand of white chocolate you're using, but it should be pretty much nothing but cocoa butter to begin with. I don't think you're going to have a sweetness problem going from milk to white. Consistency problem, maybe.

[sugarseattle]

I suppose it depends on the brand of white chocolate you're using, but it should be pretty much nothing but cocoa butter to begin with. I don't think you're going to have a sweetness problem going from milk to white. Consistency problem, maybe.

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I agree that if the white choco you've got to start with is not going to get too much sweeter by "truffelizing" it. If I remember correctly, you're probably going to be something like 75% white choco to 25% cream to get the right consistency. There shouldn't be sugar in your truffle recipe, but if there is I would omit it. Also, you mention wanting to add candied lemon zest...you might consider beefing up the lemon flavor with fresh zest or even a teensy weensy bit of lemon essential oil. Are you going to enrobe the truffle? I'm thinking a nice super dark choco would be an awesome contrast.

But not to ignore your original inquiry, I think 10% cocoa butter seems like a nice start. B utter might do well also, and would help save exhorbitant ingredient costs!

[David Israel]

I suppose it depends on the brand of white chocolate you're using, but it should be pretty much nothing but cocoa butter to begin with. I don't think you're going to have a sweetness problem going from milk to white. Consistency problem, maybe.

←

I agree that if the white choco you've got to start with is not going to get too much sweeter by "truffelizing" it. If I remember correctly, you're probably going to be something like 75% white choco to 25% cream to get the right consistency. There shouldn't be sugar in your truffle recipe, but if there is I would omit it. Also, you mention wanting to add candied lemon zest...you might consider beefing up the lemon flavor with fresh zest or even a teensy weensy bit of lemon essential oil. Are you going to enrobe the truffle? I'm thinking a nice super dark choco would be an awesome contrast.

But not to ignore your original inquiry, I think 10% cocoa butter seems like a nice start. B utter might do well also, and would help save exhorbitant ingredient costs!

←

Actually, the original recipe contains no cream; the ingredients are essentially butter and milk chocolate, with some invert sugar and the liquor/flavorings. Your idea of adding some fresh zest and/or lemon oil is a good one, and I agree that enrobing the truffle in dark chocolate would provide a nice contrast and help mitigate the sweetness of the ganache.

As far as the substitution of cocoa butter for the chocolate, 5% - 10% seems like a good beginning point, without increasing the cost too much. I'll play around and report back.

Thanks for your help!