GROM - New Artisinal Gelateria

[kpurvis]

I managed to fit in two visits during a quick trip to NY last week. (I was staying on the UWS, so that helped.) On Sunday after the opening, I waited an hour and had pistachio, fior di latte and cappuccino. (Hey, after waiting that long, I wanted to make it worthwhile). On Tuesday, I had a 10 minute wait, and got the Sicilian with the candied orange peel.

The pistachio was my favorite, hands down. As far as comparison goes, I like the selections at Laboratorio better, because they always have something unexpected. But I like that Grom's menu gives a nod to Slow Foods ingredients.

Still, I have to admit, with much shame, that I enjoyed the owner's eye wear almost as much as the gelato. Italian men just have so much style.

As long as he stays at the cash register with those warm, personal greetings for each customer (he actually talked me into springing for truffles too), I think the lines will stay long.

[lambretta76]

My questions regarding the mix - if they can use sfusi lemons from the Amalfi Coast in the mix and import it - why can't they import sfusi lemons. They have such a wonderful floral taste and I find myself pining for them.

Also, can anyone compare this to my favorite American gelato - Capogiro down in Philly?

[Megan Blocker]

My questions regarding the mix - if they can use sfusi lemons from the Amalfi Coast in the mix and import it - why can't they import sfusi lemons. They have such a wonderful floral taste and I find myself pining for them.

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I know nothing about sfusi lemons in particular, but I do know that it's far easier to import processed food products than fresh ingredients, due to restrictions meant to keep out pests, etc.

[Dryden]

My questions regarding the mix - if they can use sfusi lemons from the Amalfi Coast in the mix and import it - why can't they import sfusi lemons. They have such a wonderful floral taste and I find myself pining for them.

Also, can anyone compare this to my favorite American gelato - Capogiro down in Philly?

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Yup. It isn't as good, overall. The flavors of Capogiro are much stronger and brighter, and the milky aftertaste that Capogiro magically doesn't have is present in GROM. And the range of Capogiro flavors are second to none.

I will say that Grom's almond granita is painfully good, though utterly unlike gelato at all (obviously).

[ulterior epicure]

My questions regarding the mix - if they can use sfusi lemons from the Amalfi Coast in the mix and import it - why can't they import sfusi lemons. They have such a wonderful floral taste and I find myself pining for them.

Also, can anyone compare this to my favorite American gelato - Capogiro down in Philly?

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Yup. It isn't as good, overall. The flavors of Capogiro are much stronger and brighter, and the milky aftertaste that Capogiro magically doesn't have is present in GROM. And the range of Capogiro flavors are second to none.

I will say that Grom's almond granita is painfully good, though utterly unlike gelato at all (obviously).

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If I'm reading Dryden correctly, I agree. GROM's gelato consistency is amateur in comparison to Capogiro (and others).

I recently had a chance to try four of GROM's flavors: Yogurt, Zabaglione, Cassata Siciliana, and Gianduja.

The Zabaglione was much more eggy/custardy in flavor than I like, it overwhelmed what Marsala flavor I would have like to have enjoyed. The Yogurt was very good - tangy and creamy. The Cassata Siciliana was rather ordinary - basically sweet cream with a good amount of candied citrus peel dotted throughout. The Gianduja, like the Cassata Siciliana was unremarkable on a whole.

Overall, the texture was really disappointing. With the exception of the Zabaglione, all of the gelatos I sampled were served below optimal temperature. At that hardness, it's really no different than high quality ice cream. The Zabaglione (probably because of the higher egg yolk and alcohol content) did manage to be creamier and softer - it had that nice thick coat-your-tongue quality that I look for in great gelato.

Normally, I wouldn't mind paying $6+ for a small scoop of gelato, if it's really that good (and stand in line for 15 minutes). GROM doesn't quite rise to that level. The one thing I did like about them is the variety. But, even then, a lot of the flavors are your usual suspects.

Edited May 17, 2007 by ulterior epicure (log)

[dagordon]

Overall, the texture was really disappointing.  With the exception of the Zabaglione, all of the gelatos I sampled were served below optimal temperature.  At that hardness, it's really no different than high quality ice cream.

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Interesting. Perhaps they have a temperature control issue. I went for the first time this afternoon and had precisely the opposite complaint. The pistachio and fiordilatte that I had, flavor-wise, were quite good, though I think that Il Laboratorio's pistachio has a definite edge. Texturally, though, they were quite strange. Far too soft. But I'm not convinved that this was solely due to their being too warm; the texture wasn't even like slightly melted gelato. The texure was reminiscent of soft-serve ice cream in a way; it felt machine-expelled.

[ulterior epicure]

Overall, the texture was really disappointing.  With the exception of the Zabaglione, all of the gelatos I sampled were served below optimal temperature.  At that hardness, it's really no different than high quality ice cream.

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Interesting. Perhaps they have a temperature control issue. I went for the first time this afternoon and had precisely the opposite complaint. The pistachio and fiordilatte that I had, flavor-wise, were quite good, though I think that Il Laboratorio's pistachio has a definite edge. Texturally, though, they were quite strange. Far too soft. But I'm not convinved that this was solely due to their being too warm; the texture wasn't even like slightly melted gelato. The texure was reminiscent of soft-serve ice cream in a way; it felt machine-expelled.

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A lot of this has to do with the percentage of fat/liquid/solids/air that is incorporated into the gelato. A good gelateria, or gelato-maker, more precisely, will adjust the ingredients so that all of the flavors have optimal balance of flavor and texture at a given temperature. It is quite possible that the pistacio and fiordilatte, like the zabaglione that I tried are softer gelatos at GROM. To expect total consistency on texture across dozens of flavors is quite impossible, but the range should not, in my experience, be as wide and varied as that which I experienced across just four flavors - especially when three of the flavors were more heavily milk based (cassata siciliana, zabaglione, and yogurt). The fact that the gianduja was harder made sense, as nut pastes tend to be thicker. GROM's gianduja was just a little that side of fudgier than I optimal for a nut gelato. Next time, I'll have to try their pistachio.

[kiliki]

I stopped by on a recent trip and was really wowed by the place. I've eaten a ton of hazelnut gelato all over Italy and GROM's hazelnut really knocked me out. I also loved that they had real granitas-the kind that are scooped out of the metal tub, as opposed to the kind you usually see here in the US, that come out of a slurpee type machine. That was very good as well.

[BrentKulman]

Happened to find myself in NYC with a free hour to kill so headed up to the Upper West Side to see what all the fuss was about.

After waiting in a small line for about 10 minutes while an indifferent server (and quite possibly NY's slowest cashier) waded through a staff change, I made my way to the counter and had a chocolate hazelnut combination.

The server went overboard with the chocolate so with this place's strict portion control there was not much room for the hazelnut.

I was impressed by the flavor, particularly of the chocolate but overall, I was not overwhelmed.

Indifferent service, long lines (by the time I picked up my order the line had lenghtened significantly), tiny portions, high prices and an uninspired selection had me longing for a return trip to Capogiro Gelato in Philadelphia.

Sorry, NY, not only does Philly have you beat when it comes to great places to buy and drink craft beer (another subject entirely), but Grom trails Capagiro Gelato in so many ways it is not even a race.

Edited May 31, 2007 by BrentKulman (log)

[Dave H]

In fairness, Grom just opened, and in the fad-happy UWS. Give it a few months and the lines will be proportional to the quality (which is quite good but certainly not life-changing) and the (stunning) price. Personally, my one visit to Grom made me realize how good we have it with Il Laboratorio and the ice cream in our restaurants (where, if they're not using Il Laboratorio, it's because their in-house product is even better).

Grom tip: if you don't want to wait for all of eternity, call in your order from the back of the line and skip to the front to pick it up. This flash of inspiration saved us maybe 45 minutes. (Brent's comment about NY's slowest cashier is well taken.)

[BrentKulman]

Personally, my one visit to Grom made me realize how good we have it with Il Laboratorio and the ice cream in our restaurants (where, if they're not using Il Laboratorio, it's because their in-house product is even better).

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Thanks for the tip about Il Laboratorio, Dave.

Just checked out their website and was very intrigued by their range of flavors. Not sure how many they serve at any one time but I hope they mix in a few of the offbeat Asian flavors on a regular basis.

Next time I'm in the area I've made a note to self to try and get down there to give it a try.

[ulterior epicure]

Totally agree with BrentKuhlman on the disinterested service at GROM. But, with the long lines and impatient customers, I don't blame them. The thing I dislike the most about the GROM experience (especially on my one visit), is that by the time I got up to the counter, I couldn't help but feel all two hundred eyes behind staring at me in nervous anxiety. I felt rushed... and would have liked to try at least two flavors. Oh well.

re: Il Laboratorio. I was actually disappointed on my one visit. I will say that the flavors are quite interesting - as I recall, I had a ricotta gelato that really rocked in terms of flavor. None of the flavors (I think I tried four) were of the right consistency - even harder than GROM's actually. And, worse of all, the service was awful. The "scoop Nazi," as it were, wouldn't let me try more than ONE flavor. That really turned me off.

[Dryden]

Capogiro smokes Il Laboratorio, too.

[BrentKulman]

Capogiro smokes Il Laboratorio, too.

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Oh well, I'll just have to get my gelato fix in Philly, the next time I am there.

[Mayur]

Or you can buy their gelato at Wholefoods...

[ulterior epicure]

Or you can buy their gelato at Wholefoods...

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Okay, maybe I'm a gelato snob, but buying store-frozen gelato negates the whole point of gelato - which is that creamy consistency that can only be achieved and maintained by keeping the gelato a certain temperature. Unless there's a particular Capogiro flavor that you can't get otherwise, then I just don't bother with freezer aisle gelatos. For the price, you might as well buy premium ice cream. It's cheaper, and for the consistency, just the same.

u.e.

Edited June 1, 2007 by ulterior epicure (log)

[ppace]

I would never ever return to Il Laboratorio, sure he let my wife try one flavor. After filling the cup, he precisely removed the equivalent of the taste he had given her. "scoop Nazi" , indeed

[Dave H]

While I've never had a "scoop Nazi" experience at il laboratorio's original storefront, by far the better store is the one inside the new Bowery Whole Foods: larger selection, much better hours, no lines, and the counter dude has on several occasions cheerfully let me and each of my companions try three or four flavors each with no eyebrows raised. Incidentally, I didn't mean to suggest that il laboratorio is life-changing either, only that I don't find Grom significantly better.

[ulterior epicure]

... Incidentally, I didn't mean to suggest that il laboratorio is life-changing either, only that I don't find Grom significantly better.

I would agree: not significantly better, but certainly better.

[kiliki]

Okay, maybe I'm a gelato snob, but buying store-frozen gelato negates the whole point of gelato

Ditto. I've never had a pre-packed gelato that even reminded me of what gelato is supposed to be like.

[kathryn]

While I've never had a "scoop Nazi" experience at il laboratorio's original storefront, by far the better store is the one inside the new Bowery Whole Foods: larger selection, much better hours, no lines, and the counter dude has on several occasions cheerfully let me and each of my companions try three or four flavors each with no eyebrows raised. Incidentally, I didn't mean to suggest that il laboratorio is life-changing either, only that I don't find Grom significantly better.

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The Bowery location also consistently has the delicious Thai Chili Chocolate.

[Pan]

I would never ever return to Il Laboratorio, sure he let my wife try one flavor.  After filling the cup, he precisely removed the equivalent  of the taste he had given her. "scoop Nazi" , indeed

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I was at Il Laboratorio with a friend this afternoon. I asked for and received three free samples from the friendly counterwoman, and was then given what seemed like a perfectly normal portion of two terrific flavors that went together well: Maple walnut and buttermilk -- sweet and sour. The Maple walnut tasted like I was eating strong Grade A or possibly a mix of Grades A and B maple syrup. My friend is from Rome and was happy with her gelato -- coffee, which was really strong. She and I chatted with the owner some.

So, anyway, in no way am I discounting your experience, but in my admittedly limited experience with Il Laboratorio, I've found them fine.

[ppace]

Totally understand. My wife is from Florence and we were excited that there might be real gelato in NYC. This was several years ago, for all I know the person who served us is long gone. It was just so weird to watch him remove the tiny amount, it seemed so cheap. Well this thread is about Grom and after reading about the leveling issue, I'll wonder if we'll bother. It's going to be tough... I know we'll end up there sooner or later.

[dagordon]

The texture problems that I experienced my first time at GROM may have been an aberration. The texture of the gelato we had today -- yogurt, vanilla, cappuccino, and extra dark chocolate -- was unobjectionable. Flavor-wise, the vanilla was ok, and the others (extra dark chocolate in particular) were terrific. At least as good as Capogiro fresh from the source, I'd say.

[ulterior epicure]

...At least as good as Capogiro fresh from the source, I'd say.

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