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  1. I'm a Brit. I'm also a closet Frenchman. To cap it all, I'm happily retired in Bangkok, the city of a street food culture that's second to none. The Thais are healthy and slim. I'm just this side of alive and far from slim. Lockdown has me fantasizing about my days working in London, Paris and New York, an existence, if one could call it that, revolving around gastronomy of one kind or another. They paid me, not so very much as it happens, to do what I enjoy doing most in life. We all get to do it, but I was one of a fortunate few who made it his metier. Well all that's in the past now, but I still dream of my time in Paris when lunch was a tad short of 2-hours, little-known local bistros remained affordable until the day they were discovered by La Bible (Michelin Guide) and the students were revolting - this was the summer of '68, for heaven's sake. Someone should open bistro here in Bangkok with a table d'hote of Soupe a l'Oignon gratinee, Blanquette de Veau, a stinky Epoisses and Tarte Tatin to finsih with creme fraiche. Ah, it's back to lockdown and pad Thai.
  2. I have seen referenced in several places on the internet, including Wikipedia, a stat about escoffier recommending 40 minutes for scrambled eggs in a Bain Marie. I cant find where this number is from. On Wikipedia it refers to the book I currently own, the "Escoffier le guide culinaire" with forward by Heston Blumenthal by h. L. Cracknell...specificly page 157 for the 40 minute cooking time of scrambled eggs but it's not in my book on that page! Even tho there is the recipe for scrambled eggs on that page... I've seen the 1903 first edition online.. And it's not in there either.... Where is this number from?? Id like to know in case there is some even more complete book or something out there that I'm missing. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you.
  3. Hi all. One of my favorite cuisines is dishes that you would find in a French Bistro. It's a natural match for the great ingredients we have in the Pacific Northwest-seafood, wine and hazelnuts to name a few. Here are some recent dishes I did in a French Bistro theme: Crispy Frogs Legs with a Parsley-Cilantro Sauce Moules Marniere-Mussels in White Wine-Saffron Broth
  4. After batting about .500 with my previous approach to macarons, I came across Pierre Herme's base recipe online. After two flawless batches of macarons, I've been re-energized to continue to work at mastering them. Specifically, I want to try more of his recipes. My conundrum is that he has, as far as I can tell, two macaron cookbooks and I don't know which one I should get. I can't tell if one is just an updated version of the other or a reissue or what the differences really are. I was hoping somebody had some insight. I have searched online and haven't seen both books referenced in the same context or contrasted at all. This one appears to be older. And this one appears to be the newer of the two. Any insight would be helpful. Thanks,
  5. The rise and fall of French cuisine interesting read.
  6. There are two local grocery stores here who I'd like to try to sell chocolate to but they have policies forbidding GMO soy, Soy lecithin is allowed only if organic or certified non-GMO. I use a lot of Felchlin, some Valrhona, a little Cacao Barry. The only mention of GMOs I've found from Felchlin is this note in a brochure: GMO absence: Felchlin fulfills current legislative requirements regarding GMO absence. All Felchlin products comply with the Swiss Regulation and the European Council Regulation related to genetically modified organisms in food and feed. Does anybody know what those requirements are? Is anything European going to be GMO-free? Or labeled above some %?
  7. I dont believe that any English translation of Carêmes works exist. An incomplete version was published in 1842 (I think) but even the that version seems lackluster for the few recipes it does cover. I think it's time the world looks to its past, but I don't speak great French and it's a huge task to undertake. I hopefully plan on publishing this work and anyone who helps me will get a very fair cut, and if we decide not to publish it, I'll put it out on the internet for free. I'm working in Google docs so we can collaborate. I'm first cataloging the index to cross reference the pre-existing incomplete English version to give us a reference of what yet needs to be done, and from there we will go down the list of recipies and Translate them one by one. Simple google translate goes only so far, as it is 1700s French culinary terms and phrases being used. I'd like to preserve as much of Carêmes beautiful and flowery language as possible. Who's with me?
  8. Has anyone come across a digital version of Practical Professional Cookery (revised 3rd edition) H.L. Cracknell & R.J. Kaufmann. I am using this as the textbook for my culinary arts students and a digital version would come in very handy for creating notes and handouts.
  9. Yes, I had the same reaction and was in disbelief, but my recent meal at Les Créations de NARISAWA has cleared all my doubts! Being the highest ranked restaurant in Japan, and in Asia, for two consecutive years on The S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, this is a restaurant where a passionate chef cooks with his heart and soul. We were the first to arrive during a weekday lunch service. Not only was chef Narisawa in the kitchen as usual, but he had started early that morning in preparation for his lunch and dinner service. The elegantly designed dining room allows diners to observe the intense action and collaborated teamwork in the kitchen. The menu, entitled Gift from the Nature, promises a full theatrical performance consisting of three categories: Forest, Mountain, and Sea. My first impression upon browsing through the menu was a merging of the style of Noma, the techniques of Mugaritz, the eye-openers of The Fat Duck, along with the strong seasonal flavours of Japan. However, once the meal began, I immediately sensed the originality of his cooking. This was neither Japanese nor French, but a Narisawa cuisine! A Forest bread-making demonstration was surprising and intriguing. This must be the first restaurant in the world to bake bread in the dining room and without using an oven! I thought the bread trolley of Robuchon was the epitome of bread presentation, but this freshly made bread beats them all! While waiting for the bread to bake, we enjoyed a short break to the Mountain for a tasting of fresh radish and sweetfish from the river before immersing ourselves into the Sea with a spiny lobster nested under a colourful garden of vegetables. I have never been a fan of poached foie gras. I don’t know how, but chef Narisawa poached it like nobody else, resulting in one of the best dishes of my life! Back to the wildwood for our main dish: roasted quail with a raisin reduction and an edible decoration of fried potato skin, sakura leaves, and a black stick of fried gobō sprinkled with cassava powder. Impressive stuff! Time to settle in for dessert after our fascinating journey through the Forest, Mountain, and Sea. ! A fresh strawberry topped with almond ice cream followed by an eye-appealing and mouth-watering trolley of petits fours. After sampling eight stunning creations by chef Narisawa, there is no question that he deserved a spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Chef Narisawa is not only an inventor, he is a culinary artist who can transform “Gift from the Nature” to an experience of a lifetime, and that’s what sets him apart from his peers. You can find loads of top-notch sushi or tempura all over Japan, but there is only one place in the world where you can experience the cuisine of Narisawa! Click Here for photos and videos of the full menu.
  10. I assume that the Monoprix on Opera has this product. It flew out of our host's frig door and broke. The French plastic is thinner than the American. If Monoprix lacks it, I guess the choice will have to be Bon Marche across the river. Any other usggestions I should consider.
  11. This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Sending mustard to the US What to take to the next country Shipping Gifts for French friends Gifts for Americans Gifts to France Things to bring each way What do you bring home from Paris Expat substitutions
  12. This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Paris markets Tomato hunt Organic Beets Foodie streets Marche Auchan St Antoine Lyon Supermarkets Carmes Beaune Maison Rousseau Lyon Marche Forville Cannes
  13. I did a search on eGullet and can't believe that there is no topic comparing Parisian ice cream places! What piqued my interest is Louisa Chu's excellent articles in her blog, A Movable Feast, on three different ice cream places. So far Berthillon is the only one I have tried, back when I was last in Paris in 1999. I loved it then. My most memorable flavor was Armagnac and Raisin. It is a must for my wife and I to revisit now and bring our children. Others mentioned by Louisa include Pierre Herme's ice cream sandwiches and gelato from Amorino. What and where are your favorites? Any good ice cream stories?
  14. I'll be getting into Paris about 8 p.m. this tomorrow (Aug. 27) and was hoping to pick up a few essential for breakfast the next morning like milk, juice, eggs etc. I'm renting an apartment for the time I'm in town. Is there a grocery store that's open late on a Sat. so I can pick up some of these things? Damn, just realized my first full day in Paris will be a Sun! That can't be good. Most pastry shops are closed on Sundays, oui?
  15. Bonjour! I am planning a week in Paris at the end of September and have been reading all of the fabulous restaurant recommendations that have been posted. I can always use more - a top three perhaps? I am also trying to find an apartment to rent for the week (preferably near a market as I hope to thrill my fiancee with my culinary skills en francais) Does anyone have any recommendations for accommodation and for a great cooking class that I can take? I would love to attend one that will take me through the market pre-cooking for a tour. Merci!
  16. What’s in the markets in France – February I’ve gotten a little encouragement to start a monthly series on products in our markets after my response to the thread on March products. So, here’s February – much credit to the Almanach du Gastronomie by Armelle de Scitivaux (Bottin Goumand, 1998, 133 FF) and Regal magazine, (recommended by the LTP of member Paga), featuring a combo of restaurant, product and recipe info that is really cutting edge, by me anyway (unfortunately they have no worthwhile web presence – you gotta call or buy a copy which has subscription data). The following are in full season in February (underlined items are biggies and/or have recipes in Regal): oysters, bar, cod, merlan, langoustines, sole, turbot, lotte, oursin, coquille St-Jacques, calamari, coques, herring, monkfish, l’omble chevalier, palourdes, praires, ray, salmon and plie; milk-fed lamb, goose, farm pork and veal; l’Abondance, Cantal, Laguiole, Salers, Mimolette, Comte, l’Epoisses, Maroilles, Mont d’or, Munster-gerome, Vacherin, Ossau-Iraty; avocados, betterave, swiss chard, spinach, broccoli, cauliflower, leeks, fennel, dry mushrooms, celery-rave, rutabaga, topinambour, crosnes, salsify, celery, raddichio, cabbage, endives, Soissons beans, lentils from Puy, mache, turnips, parsnips, leeks and frisee; truffles; chestnuts; bananas, kiwi fruits (kiwis are the folks; kiwi fruits the products); yellow lemons, grapefruit, bananas, clementines, mandarins, Seville and other oranges, cumbava, dates and exotic fruits (e.g., mangos, passion fruit, litchis, coconuts, kaki, pomegranates, kumquats, starfruit and ground cherry). Others - please add to it.
  17. Régal, No. 9, February-March 2006 Edito. Mise en Bouche: Boudin déguisé Courier des lecteurs: Concours des recettes Bruits de casseroles: Actualités à grignoter : News to nibble on: The restaurant Mac/Val at the Nouveau musee d'Art Contemporain at Vitry. Glace rétro, retro ice cream. Invasion of the Italian Pandoro cake. Healthy food coaching offered by Chefs in Lyon and Lille. High Tech toaster. Gift: olive oil bottles in hot colors. Bar made of Ice in Paris 18th. Super new fruit juce : pomogranite juice by Yablok. Knife cult: Knife 9.47 discovered in the paté at Prenez les Pailles, the bistrot/cave in the 15th. La creuset special delivers in Paris. Anticellulite chocolate. Juice bar Lood in the Paris 2eme helps us get our quota of daily fruit. Fruit and vegetable soap. To taste - Le Pain des leurs organic whole grain crackers. New Book: "Testicules" every possible way they are served and cooked, everywhere. To discover: Tapasmania, restaurant in the Paris 1st. To drink: Ski wine - Domaine Dupasquier, Jongieux, Savoie. To taste: Nice new sablée biscuits, Michel et Augustin. Find them at Monoprix. etc. Batterie de cuisine: Le cuit-vapeur ; Reviews of steam cookers. Shopping: Vaisselle et ustensiles bambou Feuilleté: Les meilleurs livres du moment: Helen Darroze - autobiography, photos Jerome Delafosse. Vin pour les nuls, Pierre Casamayor. Beaux restes - a cookbook that shows you how to create new dishes with leftovers by Emmanuelle Jarry and Jean-Francois Mallet. Fete la cuisine - New menus for holiday meals by Nathaly Nicholas. Pot-au-feu & Cie - 30 recipes for the Pot au Feu by Keda Black with photos by Akido Ida. C’est la saison. - seasonal list updated on the Feb Thread Here. Un produit et deux recettes: Le merlan : Un produit et deux recettes: Le fenouil : Un fromage de saison: la mimolette Un produit rare à découvrir: le haricot de soissons Agenda: Fête de l’huile nouvelle et autres manifestations : Oil fest and other events Menu de saison. Entrée: Papillote de crepe aux langoustines Plat: Chou farci Dessert: Galette des rois feuilletée aux dattes Ma recette prete en 30 minutes. / My recipe ready in 30 minutes Benedict Beaugé et son cabillaud aux coquillages en cataplana Laura Zavan et ses pates orecchiette, saucisse et poireaux Trish Deseine et son aile de raie rotie au beurre vert Recettes Rapides. Que faire avec ? Les chataignes en bocal : What to do with: Canned Chestnuts Que faire avec ? Les champignons séchés : What to do with : Dried Mushrooms Feature Articles. Les agrumes. - Texte Marie-Odile Briet, Photography Akiko Ida Du soleil dans l’assiette : rien de tel en hiver, pour réveiller vos plats, que d’utiliser des agrumes en cuisine. Apprenez à les reconnaître. / Especially in wintertime, to bring your main dishes to life, use citrus fruits in your cooking. Learn how to identify them. Le Cochon. - Texte Aline Cochard, photography Tommasso Sartori Dossier : Peu chère, maigre et digeste, la viande de porc a tout pour plaire. Des éleveurs ont relancé des races anciennes aux saveurs exceptionnelles. Le chef Bruno Doucet, de La Rélegade, nous livre huit recettes faciles et délicieuses. / Inexpensive, lean, and digestable, pork has everything to please. Pork farmers have brought back old races with exceptional flavor. Chef Bruno Doucet, of La Relegade, gives us 8 easy and delicious recipes. Julie Andrieu fete la Saint-Valentin.recipes Julie Andrieu, Photos Henry Roy Recettes amoureuses Comme Julie Andrieu, préparez votre repas de la Saint-Valentin avec votre amoureux. À deux, c’est plus rigolo. Une entree, un plat et un dessert à déguster dans les yeux. / Loving recipes just like Julie Andrieu's, prepare your St. Valentine meal with your lover. It's more interesting when two are cooking. One appetizer, one main dish, and one dessert to taste with your eyes. Secrets de Chef. - Texte Alice Orhant, Photography Pierre Javelle Crêpes soufflées au Grand Marnier : Le tour de main de Jean-André Charial, de l’Oustau de Baumanière, aux Beaux-en-Provence Un Restaurant et un Plat. - texte Sébastien Demorand, Photography Denis Dailleux Topinambours, pommes de terre et pintade en baeckeofe de Mon Vieil Ami, à Paris Cuisinez les épluchures de légumes racines. - Texte Dr. Jean-Phillippe Derenne, photography Anne Veaute Ne jetez plus les épluchures, elles sont délicieuses en salade ou en gâteau / Don't throw away your peelings, they are delicious in a salad or cake! À Boire Vins Bio : Plus naturels, les vins bio répondent à un besoin d’authenticité. Portraits de vignerons qui ont sauté le pas. / More natural, organic wines meet a need for authenticity. Portraits of winemakers who have taken the leap. Vins de Cahors, week-end de cave en cave : Suggestion d’itinéraire pour une balade dans les vignobles autour de Cahors / Itinerary suggestion for a tour through the winemaking estates of Cahors. Les secrets d’un alcool : Une savoureuse liqueur au whisky. / A delicious whiskey liqueur. Échappées gourmandes Le skrei en Norvège : Reportage dans les îles Lofoten, où des millions de cabillauds viennent se reproduire chaque hiver. / Report from the Isles of Lofoten, where millions of cod reproduce each winter. Pêche sous glace en Auvergne : Des centaines de pêcheurs creusent un trou dans la glace pour taquiner la truite. Étonnant ! / Hundreds of fishermen cut a hole in the ice for catching trout. Suprising! Insolite : Au Canada, on élabore un cidre à base de pommes gelées. 16 Pages Pour Mieux Consommer Toute la vérité sur les vitamines Faut-il acheter les produits hard discount ? Ne pas confondre la morteau et de la montbéliard Banc d’essai : Quel confit de canard choisir Produit d’ailleurs : La pâte d’olives de Kalamata Produit de terroir. L’andouillette de Troyes À découvrir : L’huile d’amandons de prunier Fiches Détachables : Cuistots en herbe : Deux recettes pour les enfants La liste des courses : Les ingredients de 18 recettes à glisser dans le porte-monnaie. Index des recettes : Entrées : Boudin déguisé Bouchées d’apéritives Carpaccio de fenouil au parmesan Marinière de coquillages au cumbava Salade d’épluchures de légumes racinés Salade effet Bœuf Salade d’oignions frais Kumquats et olives Soupe de vermicelles aux champignons seches Velouté de fenouil Plats : Aile de raie au beurre vert Andouillette au rosé des Riceys Cabillaud au coquillages en cataplana Carré d’agneau rôti au pomelo Chou farci Cote de porc rôtie au beurre demi-sel at au thyme frais Croustillants d’oreille et de pied de porc Filets mignons à l’ananas, tomates et brindilles de romarin Gambas sautées au gingembre sur rondelles d’ananas Gratin de châtaignes au citron Lapin à l’olive noire de Kalamata Merlan aux herbes fraîches Omble chevalier au chou vert Palette demi-sel cuite au bouillon, lentilles vertes du Puy Papillote de crêpe aux langoustines Pâtes orecchiette, saucisse et poireaux Pintade a la bigarade Polenta, poêlée de champignons au curry Poitrine croustillante Roulade de merlan à la vanille Rôti de porc cuisiné à la sauge Skrei à la Maren Anna Terrine de campagne Tchelo (galette de riz) Topinambours, pommes de terre et pintade en baeckeofe Tourte de saumon au fenouil Travers de proc laqué Desserts: Banquise bicolore Cerises d’amour Crêpes soufflées au Grand Marnier Crumble Banane-citron vert Crumble de châtaignes à la poire Galette des rois feuilletée aux dattes Gâteau de pelures de racines Gâteau au yaourt Granité vodka-orange Nougatine chocolat-amandes Roulofilo (roulé jambon-fromage) Shortbreads (biscuits écossais) Contributors : Aline Cochard Julie Andrieu Photographe : Tommaso Sartori (please PM bleudauvergne with corrections)
  18. I've made maybe 10 of these over the last 15 years with always different results. Sometimes recipes call for yeast for the dough, sometimes not. I never seem to keep hold of the recipes I like best though. Just started one for today, that called for yeast. However, the yeast however never foamed, so I just threw it in with the flour and salt anyhow. Dumb? Chuck the whole mess and begin again? Id like this one to be perfect. Help much appreciated.
  19. I just spent the weekend cycling through Brittany, which was wonderful, even though we were blasted with wind and rain... (Never put too much faith in weather forecasters.) Of course the rewards for our stoic efforts were numerous pancake stops to 'refuel' which made me curious about a couple of things. What is the difference between a galette and a crepe? Apart from the fact that galettes seem to be used for savoury dishes and crepes for sweet ones. Galettes seem a bit 'heavier' or rougher. All the galettes we had were made with 'ble noir' - which translates as 'black wheat'. What is black wheat? Is it like spelt? Or something else? We also had some great beers made with 'ble noir'.
  20. I received a handwritten recipe in French from a chef in Paris after I'd written to ask him for the recipe of a dish I'd had at his restaurant. I was so delighted to receive it, but I'm having some trouble deciphering his handwriting and undestanding a few of the words. Hoping someone out there in eGullet land can help me out. 1. He speaks of a casserole "Torrifiu" ...at least I think that's the word. It could be Torrifin, Torsifin, Torsifiu. It must be some kind of casserole dish, but what is it? 2. He then says to add honey, lemon juice and reduce "de moitre 'spiritueux'" ?? Perhaps it's maitre. "Spiritueux" means spirits, but I'm confused because the wine hasn't even been added yet. 3. At the very end he says "l'envoie au chenage." Is that "place in the oven?" Wasn't sure about chenage... Thanks for any help you can offer.
  21. bonjour! i was watching a japanese cooking show on marseille. all the dishes contained kasago -tai??(sorry i dont know the word in french, but it is red and has really thick scales) one of the dishes used panisa. i could not figure this out. it was very delicately fried, then a baking ring was put around it. the panisa was covered in sauteed red & green peppers and finally, it was topped with the sliced fish. the fish was covered in evoo and then it was baked. any idea what this dish is called? and how do i make panisa? merci beaucoup ps - i did a search and i kept hitting thai and vietnamese web pages about a khmer woman who won the miss thailand crown
  22. In a discussion of a mystery gateau which we strongly suspected to be Breton, but the origin of which has been happily muddled even further, ptipois brings up an interesting point. A recipe for Gateau Breton appears in a cookbook entitled 'Parisian Home Cooking'. Does it belong there? It's hard to say... Calling all Parisians, native or otherwise! What is Parisian cooking? Next question, what can we call Parisian Home Cooking, and how does it differ from the home cooking in other regions of France?
  23. I don't normally like French food, nor do I like my fish cooked. But, over the weekend, I dreamt of the most perfect tuna nicoise, the kind you get in a bistro that came with a piece of toasted baguette. So I set about assembling the Nicoise salad. Starting with poached tuna. I got a 1/3 pound piece of sushi grade yellow fin lay it on a bed of onions, garlic and peppercorn, threw in a bouquet garni and pour enough olive oil to barely cover the tuna. I set it over lowest possible heat and watch for the occasional bubble. An hour later, the last part of red just about disappeared, so I turned off the heat and let it cool. Here I ran into a hitch, the tuna wasn't bad but it was on the dry side....Any ideas on how I can make it moist and tender? Or, is it supposed to be dry so that one can flake it into bits and mix it with mayo?
  24. I'm following a French recipe, I can get by with the instructions but the measurements are confusing me. The recipe calls for 2dl of Creme Fraiche. DL I have been advised is a demi-litre. Wouldn't a demi-litre be half a litre? Subsequently 2dl be one litre? Well that made some sense to me then I realised that there were some similar measurements in the Michel Bras book and then I got really confused. According to the recipe "stuffed sweet-banana peppers with fresh sardines, jus au pain and tomato juice" 1 cup (2 dl) of water is added. Now to me that means approx 250ml (I think) However, in "slowly cooked pork shoulder in salt, potato bouquets and parsley" 1/3 cup grape seed oil is equal to 1dl which would make 2dl 2/3 cup or in my book, approx 160ml Can somebody please tell me what a dl translates as!!!!!!!
  25. Moderator's note: As this post was off topic in its orignal thread, we've started a new one on the subject of cheese in Brittany This may or may not be the appropriate thread for this, but there seems to be an unusually large concentration of French cheese and cattle experts here so I'll ask anyways. I'm going to France this summer (first time to Europe!) and will be spending a fair bit of time in Belle-Ile-en-Mer, in Bretagne. Does anyone have some info on cattle breeds/cheeses specific to the region? I'd hate to miss out on a local treasure...
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