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  1. How this place completely escaped my notice, even though I've been in its extended neighborhood for 16 years (since 1991), and even though it has been in business for 35 years (since 1972), I do not know. I actually had a close friend living on that block for many years, and I must have walked by the restaurant 300 times and never noticed it. I was invited to celebrate a friend's birthday there and, when I got the invitation, I was like "What the heck is this place?" Upon arrival, the first person I saw (totally unrelated to the party) was a friend from law school who lives in the East 60s. He was there with his wife and two-year-old girl. "Oh, we come hear like twice a week." Then we saw another couple we know, and they were like, "We used to come here all the time when we lived in the neighborhood; now we drive in from Westchester whenever we can." Now, don't get your hopes up. Malaga is not El Bulli. I'm sure nothing about the restaurant or the menu has changed much since 1972. The food is not fabulous. But it is quite satisfying. Wonderful homemade potato chips, addictive chorizo, shrimp covered in copious amounts of garlic sauce, mariscado (mixed seafood) with a green sauce (parsley, onions, Sherry and garlic) I wanted to put on everything else. The only really weak dish I tried was the paella, which was just not worthy (bland rice, no integration of flavors) -- though it perked up a bit with the addition of some green sauce from the mariscado. Portions are pretty big, and I would recommend treating it a bit like Chinese food and coordinating a whole-table order so you can mix and match from a few different dishes. We had to leave before dessert, but the desserts we saw looked mediocre. Malaga Restaurant 406 East 73rd Street (just East of First Avenue) New York, NY 10021 212.737.7659 http://www.malaganyc.com
  2. Does anyone know where I might be able to find caraway seeds (alcaravea/carvi) in central Madrid? I have had a good look around in all the supermarkets and smaller food shops, but I just can't track any down. I thought about looking in an "ethnic" shop, but I can't think of any regions that traditionally use a lot of caraway, except maybe Poland(?), and I haven't found a Polish shop yet.
  3. bills

    Spanish Notes

    Notes from a Spanish off-line. For a normally wild and crazy group, it was interesting to see that most people stuck pretty close to the traditional wines rather than bringing one of the many ‘new’ styles now available. 2001 Valsaero Dioro Rioja – no indication of whether this is a Crianza or not. It showed medium colour, sweet oak in the nose, some soft tannins and lively acidity, and ended with a medium long earthy finish. Some spice developed in the nose with time in the glass. This was a new style wine that I am not familiar with. 1970 Marques de Caceres Gran Reserva – a youthful wine with a nose that was quite rubbery at the start. Relatively pale colour, browning at the edges – the only sign of age, as we all figured this was a wine from the 80s. The nose became more cherry with some air, a little stewy, the fruit was still bright and the length was quite good. I liked this a lot. 1999 Rochioli Russian River Pinot Noir – similar light colour, but with still purple edges. Nice cherry fruit, medium body with good flavour concentration in the middle, and good length. We disagreed about this ‘ringer’, some thinking it would continue to develop and some (myself included) thinking it as good now as it will ever be, though it will certainly continue to coast. 1994 Gaudium Rioja – made by Caceres with Tempranillo and 25% cab, this wine has always shown a funky nose, but this one was definitely slightly corked. You could tell there were some good things – nice fruit etc., but it wasn’t possible to properly evaluate the wine. 1993 Conde de Valdemar Rioja Gran Reserva – nice mellow oak and fruit nose, very silky smooth on palate and nicely balanced with good length. This one just slipped down the throat. 2001 Neo (Ribero del Duero) – OK, we did have a new style wine (the Gaudium was AWOL so doesn’t count). A definitely new age Tempranillo, this product of JC Conde was dark purple with a Bordeaux style nose but a bit sweeter, and was slightly hot in the mouth with some raspberry flavour. In fact the wine was very good, with my only criticism being a slight sourness on the finish.
  4. It has taken a long time, but finally we are able to purchase Jamon Serrano here in British Columbia, Canada. This is my second tasting since December. My first was in Oaxaca, Mexico. A Spanish restauranteur there made his own, several whole legs were hanging in his back fridge. The flavour was an epiphany. Aromatic, faintly floral, it was amazing. Thinly sliced, the jamon was served with fresh baked bread spread with a ripe tomato and olive oil mix. Unforgettable. The second jamon serrano, served over last week end, had the hoof attached and a special clamp held it in place, which is a traditional technique. We were treated to thin slices served with manchego cheese, quince paste, olives and toasted whole almonds. It is from a company called Campofrio. It was delicious but not as aromatic as my first experience. Is the first time always the best? Does this depend on curing times? How is jamon serrano served in Spain? In a tapas bar for example? Are all jamones serranos created equal?
  5. I consider myself a sherry beginner even though I have been drinking it for 20+ years. I am very fond of the Lustau line of sherries but they are hard to find here in Switzerland. Can anyone suggest some other really fine but rather unknown sherries to look for? I like dry sherry well enough but I really love the medium to sweet sherries. Thank you, Ed
  6. The Week of the 3rd of January, 2005 Metrópoli, El Mundo’s leisure magazine presents their best of Madrid 2004 Awards, the winners are: Restaurant of the Year Winner: SANTCELONI Finalists: Europa, Kabuki Newcomer restaurant of the year Winner: DASSA BASSA Finalists: Citra, La Gorda Top traditional restaurant Winner: CASA D'A TROYA Finalists: La Cocina de María Luisa, La Casa de Itziar Foreign cuisine restaurant Winner: ASIA GALLERY Finalists: Hakkasan, La Gorda 'More than a restaurant' Winner: CAFÉ OLIVER Finalists: Puerta 47, Colonial Norte Out of town restaurant Winner: ARS VIVENDI (Majadahonda) Finalists: Casa José (Aranjuez), Hakkasan (San Sebastián de los Reyes) Up-and-coming chef Winner: JOAQUÍN FELIPE (Europa) Finalists: Alberto Chicote (No Do), Darío Barrio (Dassa Bassa) Top maître d' Winner: FRANCISCO PATÓN (Europa) Finalists: Mª José Monterrubio (Chantarella), José Alves (Tras Os Montes) Top sommelier Winner: LUIS GARCÍA (Aldaba) Finalists: Miguel Laredo (Laredo), Gema Vela (Castellana, 179) Top decoration Winner: ASIA GALLERY Finalists: Hakkasan, Dassa Bassa Wine bars and tapas bars Winner: LAREDO Finalists: Taberna del Sarmiento, Casa Vila Gourmet shops Winner: PONCELET (Cheeses) Finalists: Giangrossi (Ice Creams), Barolo (Wines) Fernando Point ends the year visiting La Leñera, a young restaurant belonging to the Oter group and specialized in roasted meats. Top Metrópoli goes for the best restaurants cooking Poularde. 5 a Taula visits Casa Lázaro the place to meet all the Barcelonian cultural world and taste ytheir burgalesian specialities. Enrique Bellver complains about the blindness of the Michelin Inspectors giving a star to the almost dissapeared El Lido and not mentioning Mesana, El Lago, Ruperto de Nola, Taberna del Alabardero, Palo Cortado, Adolfo...and proposes a Stelar New Year's Day Menu. Caius Apicius writes about the now almost disapeared Ox.
  7. Hello, I am in love with Marcona almonds and would like some information on them. I first encountered them in a Portland restaurant and now purchase them in Seattle. I know nothing about their origin, except they are from Spain. Is there a specific region they grow in, in Spain? Why can i only buy them blanched and whole? Why are they so expensive? Why have I only just heard of them? Are they used extensively in the cooking of Spain? How are they used, mostly? Any help? Shelora
  8. Summer's here and the time is right for eating in the streets. It looks like summer finallly arrived to our peninsula, after some timid tries. So now we're going to see the temperature high in the thirties (ºC) - nineties (F) for some months, which cold dish do you enjoy the most? Since I've created the thread, I'll choose the cliché: gazpacho, in almost any of its endless variations. But there's much more outside gazpacho. I'm curious what our triumphant friends to the other side of the border have these days, since I'm not familiar with any cold dish from Portugal.
  9. A friend of mine was telling us stories of his trip to Europe, and he recalled one particular dish he ordered in Spain. I have never seen these things, so I have no idea of what they are. He said he was in a restaurant where no one spoke English. He couldn't understand the menu, so he just ordered anything. He received a dish of what he described as very tiny clams cooked, may be steamed, in some wine or broth. There was nothing else to accompany them, and he had no idea how to eat them. I asked if they were as small as a fingernail -- no, much smaller -- the size of popcorn kernals. At first he thought he should eat them whole, but their exteriors were very hard. He tried opening a few, but he said he would have been there all night doing that. Finally, he just gave up. I know him well enough that I know he's not pulling my leg, and he asked me to find out what they were and how they were to be eaten? Anything? Thanks!
  10. Language will be an issue here, since I guess most of the titles considered as must have won't be available in English. Nevertheless, I think it could be interesting to find which books covering Spanish and Portuguese food at large (any topic ranging from history to recipes) do you think should be present in every serious library on the topic. Suggestions, please?
  11. Does anyone know how to make this fig bread? All it has in it is figs, nuts, honey, and spices. It's really good, but expensive at the store I go to, and I thought it'd be fun to make it myself. My store now carries Matiz apricot bread, too, but I haven't tried it....
  12. Turron is usually translated as "nougat," and some is very much like what I've come to know as nougat, or at least the hard nougat, but I've seen "turron" that appears to be more like nut brittle and "turron" that's more of a soft paste, although moister than halva to my thinking. I have also seen a whole range of other candies sold as turron that are variations of the ones I've described and some that seem unrelated. Butterfly mentions experimentation in his reply to the Christmas bounty thread, but it seems "turron" has long been a loosely used term. Are there any strict definitions and what is the range of products that carry this label?
  13. I have developed such an abiding affection for canónigos that it is really bothering me that I can't find a word for them in my native language. I think they could be the perfect green--pretty little bundles of tender leaves with sweet and bitter undertones--what watercress could be if it was less assertive and much easier to clean. According to my French-Spanish dictionary, they translate as "mâche" in French. I don't think I've ever seen them on the other side of the pond. Perhaps the British have a term for them...
  14. djzouke

    Spanish Reds

    Spanish reds continue to impress my young palate. I used to drink 60% white and 40% red until I encountered my first humble Rioja about 5 five years ago. Actually, I had a 1978 Rioja Grand Reserva in the early 80's and knew not what I was drinking. At $8 or so as I remember. When I started enjoying Spanish reds with food, I've never turned back. The only whites I buy are Champagne or Cremant de Limoux. I still wonder at the suppleness of Tempranillo. The variety is truly astounding. Decanter had a good feature on it a month or so a go. Long live the reds of Spain! Rioja, Jumilla, Navarra, La Mancha, Valdepenas, Ribera del Duero, Calatayud, Toro, Yecla, Almansa, Campo de Borja, Utiel-Requena, Cataluna, Castilla Y leon, Cigales and many more.
  15. During my junior year of college many many (16) years ago, I took a semester and attended school in Seville, Spain. The food, I can get here in the states, but the beer that I consumed by the bucketload in Seville was called Cruzcampo, and I have NEVER seen it in the United States. Does anyone know why it's so hard to find beers from Spain in the US? lack of interest? Surely it can't be from lack of quality.....I'd stack that Cruzcampo up against a Peroni any day of the week. I travel a lot with my job, so if anyone has seen it, let me know, I'll schedule a trip there.
  16. Chatting with my brother the other evening he commented "You know about food Suz. Why aren't there many Spanish restaurants in the UK?" I don't really know the answer. I know that restaurants openings mimic immigration waves, hence the rise of the Indian restaurant. But I became rather stuck when my brother pointed out that many people came to the UK from the Caribbean, especially to the Midlands, and there aren't many Caribbean restaurants. I tailed off saying that I guessed that people didn't emigrate so much from Spain... So, what's the real story? Every town outside of London has an Italian restaurant. But they rarely have a Spanish one. Why is this?
  17. Spanish Wine Tasting Special Reserve May 13th 2004. Whenever Rioja – Spain’s most famous red wine region is mentioned, the first thing that comes to mind is barrel aging. The way things are progressing; this rapidly changing wine region may be in need of a new connotation. Tradition: the very basic difference between one cultural thing and another. One might argue that tradition is therefore a source for miscomprehensions and disputes, yet it is the finest way to express the fruit of the earth. So many young and talented winemakers invade the traditional world of wine with clearer, stricter, yet soulless and less experienced systems and earn much praise and compliments, that I find myself worried more and more about the ignorance of the mass consumer and the abuse of the famous critic. Then again what can you expect of species preferring to live an artificial life rather than a natural one? It seems we are back to stage one very time there is a new revelation. A father trying to teach his son about his business is likely to be in trouble these days. Lack of proper communication and an outside consultant can bring the best of businesses to their knees. The father, who may lack some of the knowledge possessed by his son, wishes to teach in a multidimensional way rather than the clear, precise and one dimensional system the son is to absorb in schools. The Father’s “Watch and learn” system requires time and attitude today’s youth seem to lack – there goes tradition. A famous French marketing consultant once said: “respect your father but be ready to kill him”. The gentleman is known to have aided many older companies to regain control of the market. Such are the troubles traditional wineries are facing worldwide and namely in Spain. The term Bodega –the cellar meant to age the wines and release them when ready to drink is modernizing and fast. Off we go… The Whites: Marques de Riscal Rueda 2000. Nothing they teach you in wine courses should be taken for granted. This yellowish toward goldish and by far less appealing wine may be ejected by sight alone yet overcoming such “an obstacle” is much worth it. Dried fruit nose with a focus on apricota and citrus fruits with a pleasant slightly oxidized aromas that seem to add complexity and authenticity. Soft and smooth on the entry with a good almost chewy body ending with a very well balanced dry finish. I am happy Marques de Riscal stuck to the region of Rueda and are constantly improving the production of this Verdejo grape [ although some Viura is added lately]. Conde de Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria A big impressive dry white made from 100% Viura grapes and fermented in oak. A classic oak impression, fully compatible with the acidity and texture of the high quality Viura located at the alto Cantabria. A pleasure for those not seeking the fruits in white wine with some pefectltly balance sherry aromas. Enjoyed very much. The Reds: Rioja Faustino 7 2002. A modern fruity red wine with a mildly spiced finish. Short? So is the wine. Drink now. Rioja Conde de Valdemar Crianza 2000. A wonderful medium bodied Rioja, fairly priced with a good balance between well-integrated tannins, fruity and spicy flavors, acidity and oak. Good job! Rioja Faustino Crianza 1999. Nearly five years old and already tired. This wine lacks the backbone acidity that balances good quality Rioja. Poor barrel aging or storage technique with plenty of off beat tannins. Skip. Rioja Faustino 5 1998. A disappointing Reserva from an able producer. Somehow softer and lacks the intensity and complexity expected from a good Rioja Reserva. Rioja Conde de Valdemar Reserva 1998 Now that is a very good example of a Rioja Reserva. Medium + body well integrated tannins and spices and a concentrated texture that turn this ine into a drinking pleasure if good meat and time are available. Deserves high rating. Rioja Conde de Valdemar Grand Reserva 1996. A wine to learn aging from. Perfect balance of this 8 year old wine with plenty of complexity, tannins and acidity to keep it going several more years yet, why wait? Rioja Finca Valpiedra 1996 Not the perfect wine in terms of balance yet a well constructed single vineyard concentrated Rioja. The wine needs time to fully develop which makes it more difficult to taste yet much more interesting to drink. Different than previous years, then again this is what the Valpiedra is all about. Give it time and enjoy. A wonderful experience. Gaudium Marques de Caceres 1994. This wine had me worried for some time. I realized its potential and had bought several cases of this wine. None of the previous bottles opened over the years showed substantial development and only now it seems that the time has come. Tannins are finally stepping aside in this modern Rioja to express ripe yet delicate sweet red fruits, good acidity and a lingering complex after taste. The wine continues to develop over an hour with a less than impressive start and and an elegant and complex finish that turns this wine into a wonderful experience. Drink 2004-2008. Rioja Marques de Caceres Grand Reserva 1989. Slightly brownish with a tired nose? Let it rest. Light red towards light gold-brownish colors. The nose is dominated by older oak and spices with mild dried fruits lingering very nicely. The fruit gain intensity as the wine develops in the glass. In the mouth the wine is soft on the entry and develops slowly into spicy sweet flavors. Amaretto, herbs and spices linger in the after-taste. The wine needs no less than 25 minutes in the glass to open up and is excellent with cold meats and aged Manchego and Parmesan cheese. One hour later and the wine fully develops into an emotionally moving older Rioja that portrays the greatness that could be found in simplicity.
  18. If anyone has suggestions for Sidra bar's and Chocolate y Churro places in Madrid I'd be grateful to hear them. Thanks!
  19. There's no shortage of food purveyors in Barcelona, ranging from the neighbour meat, poultry and fish shops to the famous and tourist-packed Mercat de la Boqueria. Since I moved here I've been slowly discovering more and more possibilities on where to get my stuff. Now what I would like to know from more experienced locals is what options they favor. Do you always go local, or run a couple of times a week to the Boqueria? I went there a couple of times but it can get busy and I'm not a big fan of crowds. I live a couple of blocks away from el Mercat El Ninot and I usually favor that one. I'd like to hear from other people's experiences, where do you find the freshest products, opinions on price, etc. Mariano
  20. Wines from Spain always does a good job in organizing their tastings and offering a broad range of interesting producers. This years regular "Great Match" tour will donate 100% of the proceeds to local food banks. I always highly recommend these tastings as a great introduction to the broad range of excellent wines being produced in Spain today. Each Great Match tasting features a comprehensive tasting of more than 200 Spanish wines, representing many of Spain’s 63 denominations of origin. The wines will be paired with an international menu of “tapas,” Spain’s world-famous appetizers, created by leading chefs in each city. The 2004 Great Match Tour will include the following cities and dates: Dallas Wednesday, June 2nd, The Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Center, Dallas 2:30 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. – Tasting Preview; Open to members of the Trade and Media - 6:00 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. – Consumer Event; Admission: $40 in advance, $50 at the door. Charity Partner: North Texas Food Bank San Francisco Wednesday, September 28th, The Regency Center, 1290 Sutter St., San Francisco 2:30 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. – Tasting Preview; Open to members of the Trade and Media - 6:00 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. - Consumer Event; Admission: $45 in advance, $55 at the door. Charity Partner: Food Runners New York Wednesday, October 6th, The Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 West 18th Street, New York City - 2:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. – Tasting Preview; Open to members of the Trade and Media - 6:00 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. - Consumer Event; Admission: $45 in advance, $55 at the door. Charity Partner: City Harvest Miami Thursday, October 14th, The Biltmore Hotel, 1200 Anastasia Ave., Coral Gables 2:30 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. – Tasting Preview; Open to members of the Trade and Media - 6:00p.m. to 8:30 p.m. – Consumer Event; Admission: $45 in advance, $55 at the door. Charity Partner: Daily Bread Food Bank For reservations and further information, visit www.greatmatch.org or call 1-866-849-8703.
  21. The Week of June 7th, 2004 Metrópoli, El Mundo’s supplement for Madrid includes a review of El Placer de Comer, a new and promising restaurant in the heart of Malasaña. Fernando Point’s review remarks the inspirative dishes with a touch of fussion and a very correct wine list. On the same magazine this week’s Top Metrópoli is dedicated to Roasted Sardines and liste their top ten places to eat them in Madrid. Unfortunately, the contents of Metropoli for other cities are not available on line. Also, in El Mundo Sunday's Magazine there’s an interesting Vinegar tasting made by Viridiana’s Chef Abraham García which includes a few recipes on vinaigrettes by Hespen and Suarez. El Correo Digital, the Basque paper includes a gastronomic section where the always polemic Rafael García Santos writes this week on Tubal, the wonderful restaurant of Atxen Jimenez and her son Nicolas Ramirez in Tafalla (Navarra). He also writes an interesting article praising the new dishes with melon as main ingredientcreated by top Spanish chefs. On the same paper there’s a frozen crème recipe and this week’s seasonal product article is for the verdel (Atlantic mackerel, scomber scombrus) also known as chicharro. Barcelona’s paper La Vanguardia includes a monthly supplement made by the group 5 a taula with a restaurant review that praises the new wine bar and restaurant Enoteca Bombaci at the Hotel Arts in Barcelona. 5 a taula, which in English means five at the table, is a group formed by Miguel Espinet, Sergi Ferrer-Salat, Josep Vilella, Miguel Gay y Josep Maria Sanclimens. This group publishes a homonym column in the newspaper. And also an interesting article where Santi Santamaría starts the inauguration of the renewed Can Fabes. Asturia’s paper El Comercio take’s a view on el Mesón Restaurante Don Sancho, a popular restaurant with superb fresh seafood at reasonable prices in Avilés, and the centenarian Casa Zabala in Gijón. This week’s recipes are for Red Mullets and an interview with Alejandro Urrutia, owner of the restaurant Paladares. La Libertad digital, the internet newspaper always include a gastronomic article signed by the veteran critic Caius Apicius, this week is dedicated to the tapas served on the Royal wedding by Arzak, Adrià, Roncero and Jockey. Please notice that to read some of the articles you need to be registered. If you want to discuss this article there is a thread for that here.
  22. At the Hor Expo 2004 in Lisboa last week Inter Magazine sponsored a Wedding Cake Competition. Steve and I were invited to serve on the International judging panel. There were just a few short of 50 cakes on display and here are some of the better ones The winning cake - Very thin cake with a poured sugar support, blown sugar balls, pulled sugar flowers and ribbons and some molded work on the top. Very nice work. The pink and slight olive green colors are a bit off due to the strong yellow hue of the lighting. some details The second place cake work is uneven And third place Here are some of my favorites Very sleek and modern - interesting styling Maybe not the best wedding cake in the world but I thought the chocolate swirlys were fun This was very eye catching and sort of lunar - I think of it as a moonstone cake This cake was very nicely done and the figures on top were very compelling This cake was actually very nice work - covered in marzipane it included a spotlight embedded in the lower tier that was plugged in at first but as it heated up it melted the frosting around it and shorted out and here are the judges Overall it was a very interesting experience especially since we also judged taste I will post more later
  23. This morning, while placing my regular order at the Lisbon El Corte Inglés (which expertly deliver live shellfish as well as everything else) I was told a shipment of "percebes" ( goose barnacles) from Galicia had just arrived, so I naturally ordered a kilo, which usually costs between 50 and 60 euros. My friend at the fish counter, probably when her supervisor wasn't watching, warned me that these, though they were no fresher or better than usual, would cost me a whopping 125 euros a kilo - more than double. Only 20 years ago, percebes were almost free. In fact, on the coast, you got a free small plate with a dozen of them whenever you ordered a beer. As the appetite for them has grown (specially in inland Spain and Portugal) and their harvest (quite dangerous when the weather's bad) has become more difficult - not to mention the ravages of oil spills and pollution in general - their price has escalated beyond anyone's most pessimistic predictions. There are a lot of cheap live percebes on the market (from Morocco, Peru, practically everywhere in South America) but they're enormous, chewy, dry and entirely devoid of that particular sea-tangy delicate flavour of Galician and Portuguese percebes. Frozen percebes, about 15 euros a kilo, are a waste of money. There really is no substitute. In Summer, when their harvest is easy, the prices tumble - but consumers have become used to the high prices and they never descend below 40 to 50 euros a kilo, unless you travel to the little fishing villages where they're caught. 125 euros is a nightmare and probably a freak occurrence. But already 3 kilos had been sold... The same price spiral has affected "angulas" - the delicious baby elvers we Iberians so treasure quickly fried in olive oil, garlic and two "malagueta" peppers. Not only are they prohibitively expensive (the best ones) but they're also becoming rarer, so that the few restaurants who can get their hands on prime, just-caught percebes and angullas will keep them for their best customers only, via a well-established phonecall system. How difficult it is to pay such prices for delicacies we once took for granted! I need some help here: what should a gourmet's correct attitude be? (For the record, I refused the percebes and rose hell, ordering two very angry lobsters instead. Two one-and-a-half pounders, caught yesterday off Peniche, cost me 120 euros. That's a kilo and a half of wild "lavagante" for the price of a kilo of goose barnacles.) My, how times have changed...
  24. Hi -- This is my first post on what looks like a great site. I'm cooking tomorrow night for a friend who lived in Portugal for many years. Does anyone know where I could find a great recipe for some sort of fish stew? Thanks for any help you could provide. Best wishes, AW
  25. Becada (woodcock, scolopax rusticola) is becoming a rarer and rarer dish. Its season is quite short, and there're few restaurants which are able to get some of these delicious birds. We also have to consider that becada, when properly prepared, presents a very strong smell and taste (not unlike the cerceta, teal bird), which challenges the mainstream mindsets of diners and cookers. IMHO, the best way to serve the becada, is following the traditional standards. A toast with paté made from its offal, a simple sauce of Brandy or Armagnac, and roasted. Of course, rarely cooked, and I prefer a good dose of faisandage. This year, I've sampled becada at Goizeko Wellington, Viridiana and Arce (twice). Zalacaín, where when I was visiting them didn't have becada available, served me an excellent example (my first one) some years ago. The best becada dish I've had this season, was yesterday's one at Arce, where they master how to cook game. In Goizeko and Viridiana are not supporters of long periods of faisandage, whereas Iñaki Camba in Arce usually has a handful of pieces at different faisandage stages. The dish, cooked as described above, presented a long, deep and mineral taste, contrasting with the light sweetness of the Armagnac based sauce. As Iñaki once taught me, you can also eat the bones of some game birds (teal bird, woodcock), and so I did this time. The only caveat is to chew them carefully to avoid injuries caused by the splinters. Naturally, you have to use your hands to extract all the taste the dish can offer. An excellent wine to pair with this dish, is the 51 1ª Amontillado, one of those undervalued sherries. The rest of the meal, was more than very good, including smoked octopuss with mashed potatoes, shrimp in its own gelée with tartar sauce and salt from its head, roasted sprint mushrooms, oyster and sea urchin, and the traditional alubias rojas (red beans), with its customary accompaniment of chorizo, morcilla, panceta y repollo. A great (absolutely) portuguese amantecado cheese, similar to our Torta del Casar with a red sweet wine, the famous Dolç de l'Obac (Priorat), was the precedent of the desserts, a selection of home made pastry. So long, becada. Eat you next year.
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