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Found 1,339 results

  1. I arrived home to a message from a local foodie insider...Thomas Keller will be opening a restaurant here in Las Vegas in the Venetian in April. I don't have any details yet...but will be at a Beard dinner here Monday night (and am sitting with some other restaunateurs from the Venetian)...I am sure that will be a topic of conversation!
  2. The post about Jose Andres appearing on Conan O'Brien's show sparked my rapidly fading memory button, and I remembered that I wanted to post this last weekend as a head's up ! PBS, at least in the Los Angeles market, is running a new cooking series with Jose Andres called "Made in Spain". The first show was run last Saturday, on two of the four stations in the market. It was quite excellent. I fell in love with Jose Andres when he was on Mark Bittman's show about Spain. He's a natural in front of a camera, and very charming. If the first episode is representative of the quality of the rest of the series, it should be a fun ride.
  3. Just wanted to bring this to the attention of those of us in the reception area! WNED are airing this show at 11:30 today.
  4. Controversy was stirred up in Spanish gastronomic circles when Santi Santamaria, himself a 3 Michelin Star holder, criticized Ferran Adria of "unethical" cooking practices related to his extensive use of gelling and emulsification agents. Link to article.
  5. Amazon is offering pre-orders for $53.55 with the book being released Oct '08. Rumor has it that there will be an option to buy a thermo water bath circulator along with the book for a package deal of around $500. Anyone know if this is true? Thanks.
  6. The Astor Center was the scene last Thursday night of the NY Public's first opportunity to taste Grant Achatz' cooking in their home city. Grant Achatz, Nick Kokonas and a crew from the restaurant, Alinea, in Chicago were in the Big Apple to promote the eponymous new book from the restaurant and to have a party. At $250pp, there was no evidence of a recession as the Astor Center event was extremely well attended. The NYC dining public was treated to Achatz classics like "hot potato, cold potato," a dish that combines potato, hot Yukon Gold sphere and cold potato soup with a bit of Parmesan cheese, butter, chive some truffle and sea salt with the novel presentation of a pin and a paraffin bowl as well as the always enjoyable "black truffle explosion" with more black truffle, ravioli filled with black truffle "spheres", Parmesan slices and wilted romaine lettuce. Needless to say, given the crowds, the lines for these legendary delights were long throughout the event as it took time to assemble each serving. Other, newer and less well known dishes were also presented. One of which even involved a wall installation that was a play on a now classic Alinea centerpiece, the Ohio honeycomb. With this installation, the guest had to punch through the paper honeycomb to reach a shrimp crisp locate within each cell of the installation. This was clever, fun and tasty. Thanks to Steven Shaw for being the hand model in the photos. As busy as the event was, even Nick Kokonas, Achatz' business partner in Alinea, was thrown into the mix, serving "pumpkin with smoked salt" from the famous Alinea antenae. Despite all the culinary delights and theater in evidence, as always the star of the show was Grant Achatz himself. Chef Achatz welcomed the crowd to the event and over the latter half tirelessly sat at a table dedicating and signing an Alinea book for each person who attended the event. The event was a success and many a New Yorker, who had never previously been able to experience Alinea, now were able to have a taste of it. I am sure that many an appetite became even more whetted for the full experience. It was great to see a number of eGullet Society members there, too! For more photos from the event, please see my blog.
  7. Hi, I want to start giving Sous Vide cooking a go and wondering where's best to get the equipment. It appears the only barrier to getting stuck in, is the exorbitant cost of the electrical bath, thermometer & needle. Does anybody know of a way to get this equipment cheaply? is there a store perhaps in london which i can visit? many thanks fergal
  8. I've just noticed a new show to FoodTV Canada. Heston Blumenthal's "In Search of Perfection" from the BBC. In this episode he is taking Black Forest Gateau and creating the molecular gastronomy equivalent. Right now he has taken melted chocolate, aerated it with a cream siphon then put it in a vacuum chamber and evacuated it to create large bubbles in the chocolate. He then figured out how to do it at home with a vacuum cleaner. I think I'm going to enjoy watching this show. Here is a link to a topic about the show.
  9. [Moderator's Note: Earlier today, chefg, Chef Grant Achatz, wrote the post below in the Alinea topic (click here for that post). We've created this topic in member news to enable our members to share their wishes for a strong and speedy recovery. -- CA] ChefG, I'm so sorry to hear of your diagnosis, but am happy to hear that you remain positive and upbeat. Thank you very much for sharing this bit of personal news with the boards. I wish you the best in your treatment. u.e.
  10. Hi, I am going to be in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv in August for 2 weeks. What are the best restaurants to try? I like restaurants that are a experimental like minibar in Wash DC. What chefs are up and coming? Also what are some casual places for breakfast and lunch. I am going to be dining alone and price is not an issue. Thanks in advance.
  11. [Moderator note: The original Sous Vide: Recipes, Techniques & Equipment topic became too large for our servers to handle efficiently, so we've divided it up; the preceding part of this discussion is here: Sous Vide: Recipes, Techniques & Equipment (Part 2)] Iknow 63oC for two hours gets you a perfect cooked Hen's egg. Any idea how brief & what temperature for a quails egg?
  12. Adria has been invited to the Documenta art show in Germany so is his work science... or art.... from the Independent today: Is food art? El Bulli chef creates a stir By Graham Keeley in Barcelona Published: 16 May 2007 Better known for his almost Surrealist creations in the kitchen rather than on canvas, Spain's best known chef, Ferran Adria, has created a stir after being invited to one of Europe's most influential art jamborees. The five-yearly Documenta art show in Kassel, Germany, is one of the biggest events in the contemporary art calendar. And Adria, whose artistic output so far has extended to dishes such as codfish foam and spherical potato gnocchi with consommé of roasted potatoes, is one of only two Spaniards invited to show off his talents this year. The chef, whose restaurant near Barcelona, El Bulli, was recently voted the best in the world for the second time, will rub shoulders with the likes of Britain's Tracey Emin. The invitation, however, has stuck in the throat of the Spanish art establishment, which condemned it as the "banalisation of art". One critic, Jose de la Sota, writing in the daily El Pais, said: "Adria is not Picasso. Picasso did not know how to cook but he was better than Adria [at art]. What is art now? Is it something or nothing?" The chef was unapologetic: "True, I am no Picasso, but what is art in times like these? Many people act as if I should apologise for participating. I am not going to. "I understand there might be people who are annoyed. It's tough to see a cook get invited to this. But what is art? If they want to call what I do art, fine. If not, that's fine too," the chef said. Roger Buergel, director of Documenta, shrugged off the controversy: "Why not? I almost always select things which seem strange to me," he said.
  13. As the indefatigable and amazingly accurate micropundit revealed on his blog, Blais and his team (known collectively as "Triail-Blais") have signed on to revitalize Element at 11th and West Peachtree. Here are some notes from a pre-opening party Saturday (19 May) night. Sous chef Jeff Sigler was shucking some sort of Pacific oyster, and serving it with carefully mounted garnishes of chorizo, beer reduction and microgreens. To do this, he had comandeered a section of the upstairs bar (ironically, a sushi bar when the property was known as Cherry, a couple of years ago). Similar to a shifting One concoction that sometimes featured mussels and sometimes oysters, these could only have been improved by a lower serving temperature, forgivable under the circumstances.<br><br> We sampled four other portions (one of them repeatedly): bay scallop with tortilla risotto and smoked tomato powder; "waffles and eggs": a cocoon of waffle batter, deep fried and served in a mini-tagine with a poached quail egg and a drizzle of maple syrup; A thin toast topped with beef marrow, bits of oxtail and wine reduction; and a mostly boneless half-quail, dipped in egg wash and panko, then deep fried. The quail was the winner. The mostly boneless part meant that only the thigh bone remained. The rest was flattened before frying, so the effect was that of a large, butterflied, deep-fried shrimp, with only the bone poking up as a handle. Nothing molecular about this, though the sweet/slightly hot mayonnaise that garnished it was reminiscent of other Blais romps through the emulsion garden. To give the scallop its due, I only had one small sample; it seemed promising. Likewise the bruschetta; I need to get better about hooking waitstaff elbows. The waffle and egg wasn't up to a similar dish I had at One, which used a bit of smoked sous vide belly to much better effect. In fairness, this sort of dish requires careful timing -- not a reasonable expectation in party circumstances. Still, it seems to me that the waffle component should be added to the egg and bacon, rather than substituting for the pork: breakfast in a bite.<br> Copies of a prospective new menu were circulated at the party. I found out today that there were actually several versions, accidentally publicizing the evolution of Blais's thinking. The fact is that the menu probably won't be set until Tuesday morning, and there's every chance that it will change by Wednesday dinner. The team took a bold but obvious step in closing the restaurant after the party; Sunday and Monday are being spent in staff training, menu finalization and prep. <br> Nevertheless, here are some of the ideas presented on the menu that I brought home: kampachi sashimi, ginger juice and soy caviar; chicken wing confit, barbeque carrot, celery dressing; lamb spare ribs, goya malta, sourwood honey; mozzarella, warm figs, olive oil marmalade; Riverview Farms pate, candied fennel, pistachio arugula emulsion; "Pot au Pho": shrimp noodles, shaved beef, spiced consomme; strawberries, whipped almond, cilantro sorbet. <br> The above notwithstanding, when I visited the kitchen this afternoon, I saw two immersion circulators full of sous-vide bags. I thought I recognized the contents, but asked director of cuisine Mark Nanna (most recently sous chef at Pura Vida and a former Blais colleague at One) anyway. "Yeah," he replied, "It's cool to think about what's in there: tails, feet, bellies. Nothing that you'd expect at a traditional restaurant. No steaks, no roasts . . ." I was right: pigs' feet, ox tails, pork belly. (An interesting aside: the belly, which had been given a quick cure in the morning, had been sealed up with an unmistakeable yellow smear of French's mustard.) A few minutes later, lamb rib sections (sans loins) were added. Clearly, the Tilia is working overtime. <br> As of today, anyway, Blais plans to include a "staff meal" special on the daily menu -- a gambit that might pay off big with the neighborhood clientele, which includes a fair number of business travellers looking for comfort food, as well as with the staff, who'd be less likely to dress up hot dogs with bottled Italian dressing if they knew it was going on the menu -- and that they have an opportunity to eat better themselves if the staff meal is subsidized at retail. <br> Blais has ambitious notions for Element (by the way, is there a better name for a molecular gastronomy restaurant? I haven't seen one). He's revived vendor relationships that lay dormant since his escape to Miami, and he's excited about local production -- the invocation of Riverview Farms, Sweet Grass Dairy and the legendary Dan Moore speak to this commitment. He talks about a menu that might change weekly or even daily, depending on what comes through the back door or what he can cadge from nameless sources. Kitchen shelves (what there are of them; it's a small space) are already stocked with methylcellulose, calcium chloride and a number of other reagents. There's a cannister of LN2 in the kitchen, and another at the downstairs bar. The Kennesaw initiative is still alive. In the meantime (my earliest estimate for opening Elevation is mid-July), this opportunity came along, and Blais grabbed it. A number of questions come to mind quickly: can Element overcome the reputation of the former Cherry as a singles-bar scene, and more recently, a middling lunch-dinner-brunch restaurant, and become a destination venue? Will folks from Virginia Highlands, Decatur and Druid Hills brave the parking challenges of the neighborhood? Two years after Blais the restaurant closed abruptly, is there a profitable niche for (in the adopted lingo of the new Element) a gastro lounge and food lab in the Atlanta market? Element opens for dinner Tuesday, 22 May. They're not on OpenTable yet; call 404.745.3001 for reservations.
  14. I just saw Hubert Keller's Secrets of a Chef on PBS (NJN). My god what a beautiful show! I drooled as I watched him prepare a new take on French Onion Soup with chopped tomato and fava beans, a classic alsatian dish and a pesto burger. I picked up a number of techniques and stared jaw agap as he created one show stopper after another. No question why he is one of the best. It is humbling watching someone at this level work. You watch him do something as simple as shape a hamburger and it make sense. Who needs food network, PBS is still the standard for real cooking shows.
  15. Every two years, one of the biggest and most prestigious events in the culinary world takes place in Lyon, France. This is the Bocuse d’Or, an international cooking event named after its founder, the great Chef Paul Bocuse. This culinary competition is being participated by 24 chefs who came from 24 different countries, each cooking his own special recipe based on a prearranged set of parameters in the hopes of winning the grandest title in the culinary world. But what is the Bocuse d’Or? Where did the idea came from? What is its history? And more importantly, why was it created by Chef Paul Bocuse? What is the importance of this international event to you as a professional chef?
  16. After a trip to CostCo I usually end up with loads of meat to cook in the coming weeks. I usually vacseal portions, then thaw them, spice them, pack them again for SV. I'm wondering if I'm wasting bags? Should I add s&p or other spices (rubs, marinades etc) right away and have things ready to cook once thawed, or would that negatively affect the meat? Would the salt pull out liquid while thawing? I have a tray of some 10 pork chops and some steaks, as well as a pack of (sadly boneless) short ribs waiting for the freezer right now. How do you go about it?
  17. Utilization of meat leftovers from sous-vide cooking Sometimes when you buy a nice cut of meat, your eyes are bigger than your and your beloved's stomach. So what to do with the leftovers? In Tyrolia (Austria) they make a "Gröstl", in Solothurn (Switzerland) they make a "Gnusch", in the Seftigenamt (a region in the Swiss canton Berne) they make a "Gmüder", and we (Pedro and SWAMBO) make a varying concoct using ideas from all of the three. We call it "Gröstl", but it is not necessarily a typical Tyrolean Gröstl, and it is different each time, and we usually do not top it with a fried egg as they do in Austria. Ingredients All your meat leftovers Onion (compulsory) Any hard vegetable (we prefer celery stalks, or zucchini) Any salad (iceberg lettuce or endive/chicory or any other salad leaves, may contain carrot julienne) Fried potatoes, or alternatively sweetcorn kernels Sherry or wine or bouillon or the gravy you preserved from your last LTLT.cooked meat for simmering (I usually prefer Sherry) Eventually some cream (or crème fraîche) Salt, pepper, parsley, caraway seeds (typical for Tyrolean Gröstl), paprika, condiment (in Switzerland we use "Aromat" by Knorr, which contains sodium chloride, sodium glutamate, lactose, starch, yeast extract, vegetable fats, onions, spices, E552)' vegetable oil (I prefer olive oil) Mise en place cut your meat in small cubes or slices cut the onion(s) not too fine (place the first cut below your tongue to avoid tearing during cutting) cut the vegetables about 3-4 mm thick cut the salads to pieces smaller than 4 cm, distribute on the cutting board and season deliberately cut the potatoes to 1 cm cubes place 3 heavy skillets with ample oil on the stove Cooking in skillet 1, stir-fry the onions, add the hard vegetables still stir-frying, add salad, add sufficient liquid (Sherry or wine or bouillon or gravy) for simmering under a cover until soft. If desired, reduce heat and add some cream at the end. in skillet 2, stir-fry the potatoes until soft (in case of sweetcorn kernels, add to skillet 1 after stir-frying and use skillet 2 for skillet 3) in skillet 3, as soon as the vegetables and the potatoes are soft, sear the meat in just smoking oil for 30-60 seconds, then add to skillet 1 Serving You may mix the potatoes with the vegetables and meat to make a rather typical Gröstl, or serve the fried potatoes separately; we prefer the latter, as the potatoes stay more crunchy. Do not forget to serve a glass of good dry red wine!
  18. Olla podrida sous vide Origin Not rotten pot, but mighty or rich pot! Originated in 16th century Spain, olla poderida became olla podrida and was falsely translated into French as pot-pourri. Ingredients For two servings * 100g Brisket well marbled, cooked SV 48h/55°C, large dice † * 100g Pork meat well marbled, cooked SV 24h/55°C, large dice † * 100g Lamb chops without bone, cooked SV 4h/55°C, large dice † * 100g Chicken breast, cooked SV 2h/58°C, large dice † * 100g Chorizo, sliced approximately 4mm † * 125g Chickpeas (garbanzos), soaked overnight in water † * 1 Onion chopped medium-fine † * ½ Savoy cabbage approx. 200g cut into pieces, thick leaf veins removed * ½ Celeriac approx. 200g quartered, sliced about 2mm * 2 Carrots sliced approximately 120g about 3mm * 1 Leek approximately 20cm / 100g sliced about 5mm * Extra virgin olive oil * Rice bran oil * Dried parsley qs, aromatic, black pepper † Beef, pork, lamb and chicken (or at least two kinds of meat) as well as chorizo, chickpeas and onions are mandatory ingredients, other vegetables vary according to desire and availability. Cooking Boil chickpeas in water for 30-60 min. Sauté onions in olive oil, add chorizo, continue sautéing, add chickpeas including its cooking water, add remaining vegetables, cover and cook to the desired softness, stir from time to time. If additional liquid is needed, you may add Sherry instead of water. Reduce heat. Season to taste. Add parsley. In a heavy skillet, sear the meat dice in just smoking hot rice bran oil (very high smoking point allows very quick sear, not overdoing the center of the meat). Sear one kind of meat at a time and transfer to the pan with the vegetables.
  19. I put sous-vide in quotes in the topic title because I don't know that sous-vide eggs are really cooked sous-vide, as in under vacuum. Rather, nature gives us eggs in their own packages (shells) that are not exactly depressurized. We can also crack them into plastic, but still that doesn't equal under vacuum. Probably we're talking about low-temperature-cooked whole eggs. So, let's talk about them: Temperatures, times and desired outcomes. In the shell or in plastic. How to peel. Doing it in a regular pot of hot water on a stove. Anything else.
  20. I'm not the first to notice this, but I don't think we have really explored the issue: sous-vide cookery is potentially a revolutionary nonfat cooking method. The other day, I made some boneless, skinless chicken breast cutlets in a water bath. They were delicious. I never thought I'd say that about boneless, skinless chicken breast cutlets. It seems the problem with them is not that they're inherently bad but that they're uniformly ruined by traditional high-temperature cooking methods. They are by definition overcooked. And usually dried out too. Whereas, at low temperature, they actually taste like chicken. The vacuum sealer also provides the opportunity to season foods deeply without using any fat. So, while modernist cooking sometimes gets knocked for using artificial chemicals and whatnot, this is at least one area in which a modernist technique can be ideal for those on restricted diets.
  21. Sous vide, poaching and confit share some obvious similarities and differences. But what about the not so obvious? If I have brined some pork, will poaching in the brine be the same as sous vide-ing the brined pork? Thomas Keller uses a hybrid of confit and sous vide for lobster by adding some beurre monte to the sous vide bag. Where are the lines clear and where are they blurry?
  22. Hi Everyone. It is kind of nice to see that so many people are willing to share their passion on the net. Might sound like a silly question but I am wondering if all cheek are equals. What I mean by this is, Can I cook all my cheek at the same temp for the same time and get similar results. In other words. If I cook my Pork Cheeks at 74 Celcius for 12 hours, would I get the same tenderness in all 3 type of meat ? Also in Thomas keller Book he does his Veal Cheek at 84 Celcius for 8 Hours. Is their such thing as a matrix that shows that if you increase your temp by 1 degree your cooking time is reduced by how much? Or the temp is more for how you want your meat and the time is optimal. For instance I am assuming that if Thomas keller cook his cheek at 84 degrees it is because trial an error showed him that cheek as the best texture that he is looking for at that temp and they are perfectly cooked after 8 hours? Iphone has an APP for sous vide. I tried their recommandation for fois gras and it was right on the money. However, they recommend beef cheek for 2 days at 74 degree... mine came apart after 20 hours. OOPS Hope I am making sense, if not I will try again Thanks in advance and I am curious what the reponse will be.
  23. I want to try making this but I'm wary of putting in the financial investment, only to mess it up on a recipe that could be alot more complex than it's deceptively simple steps would suggest. Anyone try this yet?
  24. Hi, Keeping with the recent SideKic Thread, I wanted to ask you for your thoughts about the Vac-Star circulator. To me it seems to have enough power etc. and might be a cheap alternative to the pretty expensive ones we know. Also the given value for temperature consistency seems to be quite ok... (but since till now I used a big pot on my stove, regulating myself with ice & hot water...) Has anyone tried the thing? Any thoughts based on the provided data? Is it a good alternative for the more expensive circulators or should I still go for those? Regards, Andreas
  25. Chef bought some versawhip, agar, and xantham gum after the new years. I've found some pretty good information on agar agar and some other hydrocoloids like lecethin, but can't seem to find any good information or starting points on where to start experimenting on versawhip. From what I've collected, it works similar to lecethin and can do either hot or cold foams and alot of people seem to be using it in conjunction with xantham gum for thickening and getting different mouth feels from the foam. I have absolutely no idea where to start some baseline experiments or some tested recipes to get ideas from. Have any of you out there worked with these products?
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