Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Modernist'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Society Announcements
    • Announcements
    • Member News
    • Welcome Our New Members!
  • Society Support and Documentation Center
    • Member Agreement
    • Society Policies, Guidelines & Documents
  • The Kitchen
    • Beverages & Libations
    • Cookbooks & References
    • Cooking
    • Kitchen Consumer
    • Culinary Classifieds
    • Pastry & Baking
    • Ready to Eat
    • RecipeGullet
  • Culinary Culture
    • Food Media & Arts
    • Food Traditions & Culture
    • Restaurant Life
  • Regional Cuisine
    • United States
    • Canada
    • Europe
    • India, China, Japan, & Asia/Pacific
    • Middle East & Africa
    • Latin America
  • The Fridge
    • Q&A Fridge
    • Society Features
    • eG Spotlight Fridge

Product Groups

  • Donation Levels
  • Feature Add-Ons

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


LinkedIn Profile


Location

  1. First off, thanks for taking time from your very busy schedule to answer our questions and brighten our days. I am also quite glad to see your book is about food, family and children, a topic both of abstract and personal interest. I have heard that your restaurant is quite welcoming to children and greatly look forward to dining there with our 3.5 yr old when we visit the UK in the spring. My main question is about how you interact with wine (and other alcoholic beverages) both in the practical world of service at your restaurant and when you conceptualize dishes and flavours. Is it difficult to create wine suggestions for diners due to the specific interactions of disparate flavors in your dishes as wine (or alcohol) might ruin the relationship? Is wine perhaps not the best beverage for many of the dishes? On the more theoretical level, do the complex flavours (created by so few ingredients) of wines ever inspire you? Do you ever take a wine, particularly a difficult or complex one, and use it as the inspiration for creating the flavours of a dish? Have you worked with the flavour chemistry of other beverages like scotch or beer? Thanks, A.
  2. Heston, I’m getting a bit nervous about Molecular Gastronomy. I’m concerned that it may be overshadowing the tried and true, if not proven, field of Solid State Gastronomy. I may be alone in mourning its demise, but I still like a solid piece of meat; tearing into a solid whole chicken for two, perhaps with truffles under its skin; a solid, entire fish like a sea bass “en croute”. I have nothing against foams, capsules, and jellies, but my mom told me that in order to be a happy lad, I should have at least two solid meals a day. Any chance that Solid State Gastronomy will ever make a comeback? Since satire is what closes on Saturday night, let me be serious and ask you this legitimate question: I have not seen the expression in many years, but I remember food writers of 20 years ago speaking of the cuisine of certain Nouvelle Cuisine chefs as having a taste that “explodes in the mouth”. Perhaps currently less-sensitive taste buds are a bit of a factor, but I remember enjoying food at the great restaurants of France tasting better than it does in all but a handful of restaurants today. As I have stated or implied many times (maybe now too many times) on e-Gullet, I find that besides less generosity, more “control-freaking” (not only are more chefs telling you what you have to eat, but also how to eat it), I also find less succulence or naturalness in my dishes, often so with the unexpected Adria-inspired dish that I encounter. In fact, so far (and this does not include The Fat Duck which, believe me, is visit number one the next time I go to the UK) I would have to say that Adria-inspired food works best in the context of a meal “Chez Adria”. In the interest of brevity, then, how do you view cuisine that is offered in new delivery systems (or altered states) vis a vis cuisine made by complete, masterly chefs using impeccable produce stunningly prepared and made with tried and true technique, and do you think that the collaboration of chef and food scientist is slated for a meaningful long term future?
  3. Heston, have you ever felt that speaking of "molecular gastronomy" might be a little, well, off-putting? Were there other phrases you had considered to describe your interest in this aspect of cuisine? By the way, I don't know how much you actually have to do with the design of your web site, but congratulations. I first encountered it several months ago and have re-visited it many times. I have found your comments there very useful.
  4. I have eaten at the Fat Duck but have yet to try the Riverside Brasserie. I understand that the menu at the latter is more traditional. Could you tell us to what extent you are using your innovative methods (low temperature cooking, flavour encapsulation, distilled flavours, etc.) at the Riverside Brasserie? What "niches" or "spaces" do you see the two restaurants as occupying? When would you want to eat at one as opposed to the other?
  5. I recently had dinner at Midsummer House in Cambridge. Whilst the menu was more traditional than those I've enjoyed at the Fat Duck, Daniel Clifford added a number of touches that were reminiscent of yours, most notably the green tea "palate cleanser" to start. Could you tell us what you think of other chefs imitating or adapting your innovative dishes? Similarly, it would be interesting to understand how free you feel to adopt dishes or techniques developed by other chefs?
  6. Chef Blumenthal, how did you come by such a melodious and unusual combination of names?
  7. When I read about chefs who are described as experimental, and who collaborate with scientists to create new combinations and improve coooking techniques, your name and Ferran Adria's often appear. (Unfortunately, I've not yet visited your restaurants or El Bulli.) To what extent have you been influenced by Adria (and vice versa), and to what extent do your individual contributions complement one another (or not)?
  8. The current issue of this UK magazine has a longish article on the boys of MG: Blumenthal, Gagnaire, Adria, Tim Pak Poy (Claudes in Sydney) and Juan Mari Arzak (Arzak in Spain). Insiders, we're told, "say the confident French chef Philippe Conticini at Petrossian is the next one to watch." No new ground is broken, but there is one unintentionally hilarious 'eeeuw' moment: "Inspiration can come from anywhere. Chef Tim Pak Poy...discovered that an orchard farmer used beetroot to kill off infection in an injury. Pak Poy went to work translating this in the kitchen, and the result was beetroot-cured sea trout."
  9. What is your honest opinion of molecular gastronomy and its exponents? Is it a good thing for the British restaurant industry?
  10. The Ouest website mentions that Philip Howard's degree in microbiology encouraged a unique approach to cooking. I'd appreciate learning some details on Chef Howard's beliefs, and the ways in which there are similarities with, and differences from, the "Molecular Gastronomy" approach pursued by Heston Blumenthal of The Fat Duck, Bray, and Pierre Gagnaire, Paris, among others. Below is a thread on Molecular Gastronomy: Clickety Are there other chefs in London that utilize the type of approach Chef Howard advocates, and how do you incorporate his insight into your dishes at Ouest (to the extent you do)? On Chef Howard, how did your role as sous chef at The Square differ from your role as souf chef to Raymond Blanc at Manoir? Also, I haver heard mention that The Square's dining room team can be a bit cold at times. What are your views on the kitchen team's perception of the dining room team at The Square?
  11. Just came across another very good article on Ferran--which includes interviews with a few other chefs, including my friend Jose Andres, and also a nice selection of recipes. It is different in style and scope from the previous articles we've discussed here on eGullet over the past year--those in Esquire and Gourmet and Food Arts--and I feel this is worth reading. I realize we already have more information on this site about Ferran and El Bulli than on any other online or print source except El Bulli's own magnificent website, but this article may help some of you holdouts to convert. A few excerpts: "Adria's mind is like a computer, absorbing and processing everything," Andres says. "He always carries a notebook and his expression is full of wonder, like a little kid, when he discovers something. He shares everything with other chefs — except the new dishes of the season." And "One of the most important lessons I learned from Adria is to make sure you make the best product you can — whether it's a hot dog, hamburger, tortilla or haute cuisine," Andres notes. He demonstrates Adria's influence with his deconstruction of the traditional Spanish tortilla — the flat, potato-onion omelet — into one-part potato foam, one-part onion purée and one-part sabayon, layered in a sherry glass with a topping of deep-fried potato dice. Similarly, he elevates the classic but simple concept of a tomato and anchovy salad to the sublime, again deconstucting and reassembling its basic ingredients to achieve ethereal results. "This is a simple dish brought up to another level," Andres enthuses. "Tomatoes have the most amazing natural gelatin. [Plus] the sweetness and acidity of the tomato paired with the saltiness of the anchovy make it a perfect match for a Verdejo from Rueda." And "What inspires me about Ferrán is his philosophy that the old ways should always be challenged, that we should look at everything from different angles," Andres muses. "The old-fashioned way is to protect the product's form and taste. He believes that we should change the form of the product but maintain its flavor or even make it more flavorful." So, while Andres' style at Jaleo is, he insists, "very classical" and "in development," he acknowledges his mentor with dishes like a deconstructed clam chowder. Here's the link: http://www.thewinenews.com/aprmay02/cuisine.html Oh, in case anyone is interested, the glorious Oriol Balaguer pastry book has been translated into English and is now available from JB Prince. It's the closest anyone will come to El Bulli and Adria desserts in English until Alberto's plated dessert book in English is released in November.
  12. A number of people have told me that the butters from Keller's and Plugra are one and the same, and that both are European-style cultured butters with high fat. I was looking at the Keller's site and -- I'm not sure I knew this -- saw the same company makes Keller's, Plugra, Hotel Bar, and Breakstone's. The product specifications are a bit unclear. Does anybody know the lowdown? http://www.butter1.com/main.html
  13. I have been rereading Charles Hennessy's "The Making of Marco Pierre White, Sharpest Chef in History -- Marco" with an view towards understanding MPW's relationships with his many progeny chefs (including Ramsay, H Blumenthal, J-C Novelli and, according to the book, to a greater or lesser extent, P Howard). Here's an excerpt bearing on the MPW/Blumenthal relationship: "Another worker in the kitchen [at R Blanc's Manoir au Quat' Saison] had reason to be grateful for Marco's arrival. Seventeen-year-old Heston Blumenthal . . . . had been taken on as an apprentice by Raymond Blanc. Compared with his dreams, he found the kitchen -- as all kitchens are -- hell, and his colleagues brutal. Marco immediately and instinctively assumed the role of protector during Heston's *brief* stay, and became a friend and guest of his family . . . . *With Marco's help* . . . he opened a small bistro in Bray. The plucky little competitor to Michel Roux's grand Waterside Inn in the same village was called The Fat Duck (The name was Marco's suggestion: When asked why, he asks, why not?)."
  14. I also think Thomas keller is extraordinary, but would appreciate it if you would go into more detail.
  15. I had lunch at the much-discussed Blumenthal's Fat Duck in Bray today. This was my first visit, and I had a very good meal. If Wilfrid has the time to make the short journey to Bray and has not visited Fat Duck before, this restaurant should be preferable to Petrus, Embassy, La Trompette, etc. The lunch special menu is a very good value-for-money. I could have had a wonderful meal for under Pounds 40 with wine by the glass, had I cared to limit costs. Lunch Menu, Three Courses at Pounds 27.50 (Items not chosen included in square brackets) -- Snail Porridge, Jabugo Ham, [Veloute of pumpkin, fricasse of ceps and pigs' cheeks, or Parfait of foie gras, fig compote and Banyuls] -- Braised Lamb Shank, [Petit sale of duck, green coffee sauce, pommes puree, or Poached skate wing, cockles, braised celeriac, and tonka bean veloute] -- Salted Butter Caramel, roasted pistachios and peanuts, chocolate sorbet and cumin caramel [or Nougat Glace, praline rose, fromage blanc ice cream] Glass of Louis Roederer champagne (approx. 13-14) Glass of Aligote Goisot, 2000 (5.50) Glass of Chateau Jouvent Graves 1996 (9.00) Coffee and petits fours (separate charge, 3.95) The first amuse was average -- an emulsion of green tea and lime sour, served in a slender V-shaped glass. This was light and airy (perhaps due to Adria influences? note I have never eaten at El Bulli). A dining room staff member indicated that vodka had likely been utilized in the dish, but this was not apparent. The tea flavors were too suppressed, resulting in a certain blandness and an emphasis on the citrus elements of the flavoring. The lime tasted much more like green apple to me, with nice notes of sweetness combined with sourness. Overall, however, this dish was still slightly bland and tended on the insubstantial side. Then, a much better second amuse of a little serving of Pommery mustard ice cream, to which was added (from a cute ceramic jug) a gaspacho of red cabbage. Amusingly and wonderfully, this liquid was a beautiful medium purple in color. It tasted refreshing and yet also (appropriately) salty and with a subtle "kick". I do not recollect having seen a purple this intense in a dish, except when violets or lavendar saucing was used (e.g., Club Gascon). The appetizer of snail porridge was appealing. I generally do not like oats, but here softened small oats were integrated with diced bits of snail, garlic and parsley. A parsley-based oil bound this satisfying dish together. The Jabugo was appropriately limited to thin slivers atop the porridge mixture. The reference to porridge is a misnomer, if it connoted Chinese-style congee consistency. This dish was much more a risotto-type preparation. On top of this mixture were placed thin, translucent strands of fennel -- this was unnecessary in my assessment. The Aligote white Burgundy taken with this dish is a relatively classic pairing with snails. For me, the snail porridge was the best dish of the meal. The lamb shank tasted good as well. I received a very generous portion, with a large angular expanse of bone protruding from it. The textures were nicely varied, with the caramelised and darkened overtones of the outer portions of the shank giving way to tender, well-prepared flesh inside. The only very minor area of improvement was that the sauce, which was nicely made, was a very little bit sweeter than I personally would have preferred. Softened slices of carrots were a good accompaniment. A dish I enjoyed, and paired with an appropriate wine by the glass recommended by the sommelier. A trio of pre-desserts arrived. A thin circular-shaped crisp, which the maitre d' described as a "lollipop", with red chilli flavor; a beetroot gelee (quite dense, but not in a negative way) and a tart with basil and a bit of dried fennel on top. Quite different, although it highlighted the desire to be different as well (I guess there's nothing wrong with trying to appear innovative). The dessert was a rich, elastic piece of dark-tasting caramel. As discussed in the "Pierre Herme" thread under France, there is a trend to combine saltiness with sweet sensations in dessert, and this dessert was consistent with that trend. The salted butter did add interesting elements to the caramel, and, while not a big fan of chocolate, I liked the melting chocolate sorbet as it hit the caramel. There were too many hard pistachio bits embeded in the caramel piece for my liking, but that is a pet peeve. The cumin ingredient in this dessert, described on the menu, was not noticeable. The meal ended with a chocolate containing tobacco (a la Adria), with a thin crisp (as thin as a veil) with bacon flavors (taken separately). A very good meal, with no obvious flaws. I am beginning to consider accepting the position that it might not matter whether Blumenthal derives "inspiration" from other chefs, so long as his food tastes the way it does. Fat Duck deserves its two Michelin stars. Modern and well-prepared food. Perhaps Blumenthal tries hard to make his dishes seem innovative, but the flavor combinations on the plate generally worked. I also found the menu interesting enough to ask whether there was a table available for tonight or tomorrow's lunch, perhaps due to cancellations. (Unfortunately not yet) The restaurant appears to be less busy during Saturday lunch than during Saturday night or Sunday lunch. It is closed Sunday dinner and Monday all day. Access, Decor and Service Bray can be accessed from Paddington station, from which I took a 30-40 minute trainride to Maidenhead (Pounds 7.50 return fare). Then, a quick (less than 10 minute) cab ride (approx. Pounds 5-6 each way) brought me to the little bend in the road that I had passed at various times on my way to Waterside Inn in the same town/village. There was the Fat Duck! The exterior of the restaurant is quite unassuming. However, the interior is modern, with hues of yellow, turquoise, and some limited amount of purple/light green in the artwork. Wooden beams. A fireplace area with a modern-looking sculpture placed inside. Chairs of a color between mustard yellow and a light olive. Modern artwork, and a large glass wall area near the entryway with blue hues. The maitre d' was wonderfully detailed in explaining each dish. The dining room team member who, together with the maitre d', primarily assisted me spoke fluent French (Andy -- I don't know why I like speaking French at restaurants in London, but I do). The sommeliers recommended fitting selections by the glass, and were knowledgeable and friendly (and spoke French). It was nice that the service was effective, but not stuffy. I liked the "French" aspects of this restaurant: (1) the availability of Chateldon sparkling water (less common in London and not available at, for example, Petrus), (2) the provision of Langiole knives for the lamb, and (3) butter from France, brought to a table in a large circular slab and described as having been aged appropriately (this butter did not taste impressive, but the effort was there). A fairly strong, although in some cases not inexpensive, wine list (including Delamotte champagne, an item I like alot even though it probably does not have appeal to most). The tasting menu offered was Pounds 75: -- Roast scallop, caramelised cauliflower puree, jelly of Oloroso sherry -- Crab biscuit, roast foie gras, crystallised seaweed, marinated salmon and oyster vinaigrette, or Cauliflower risotto, carpaccio of cauliflower, caramelised cauliflower puree [Wilfrid -- deconstruction of cauliflower?] -- Poached breast of Anjou pigeon, a pastilla of its leg with cherries, pistachio cocoa and quatre epices, or Poached-grilled red mullet, veloute of Borlotti beans with rosemary and vanilla -- Pineapple and chilli jelly, pain d'epices ice cream and crab syrup -- Delice chocolate, chocolate sorbet, cumin caramel The a la carte menu is Pounds 58 for three courses: Appetizers -- Roast scallop (see above) -- Crab biscuit (see above) -- Cuttlefish cannelloni of duck, maple syrup, parsley and perilla broth -- Cauliflower risotto (see above) -- Ballotine of foie gras with jasmine, jelly of mead, Sichuan peppercorn -- Lasagne of langoustine, pig's trotter and truffle (6.50 supplement) -- Radish ravioli of oyster, with truffle and goat's cheese, fromage de tete Main courses -- Pigeon (see above) -- Saddle of lamb cooked at low temperature, lamb tongue, onion puree -- Pot roast best end of pork, gratin of macaroni (for two) -- Roast spiced cod, castelluccio lentils, braised cockscombs [interesting!] and pea puree -- Sweetbread cooked in a salt crust with hay, crusted with pollen, cockles a la plancha and parsnip puree -- Red mullet (see above) Dessert -- Delice Chocolate (see above) -- Chocolate coulant (M. Bras) [note crediting] with blue cheese, fromage-blanc ice cream, Sichuan pepper and wine pear -- Tart tatin, bay leaf and almond foam, vanilla ice cream -- Millefeuille of pain d'epices, pineapple and chilli jelly -- Smoked bacon and egg ice cream, pain perdu, tomato jam [interesting] -- Artisan cheese from La Fromagerie (if additional course, 10 pound supplement)
  16. I have been very hesitant to talk about my El Bulli experiences as this is the one restaurant that not only seems to get more press than most, but also the one critics "fawn" over. I have shared it with a few egullet members, but am now opening it up for general discussion. The first experience with El Bulli was in 2000 and the second in 2001. It is hard to explain what happened to Adria - he went from a culinary exciting, well-focused dining experience to a nightmare. General comments on both trips: 1. Is it as hard to get to as they say? Harder-- You'd have to be nuts to drive in the evening. In daylight on the way over it was bad enough. The mountain roads in Montana look like paved freeways compared to the road to El Bulli. 2. Was it worth it? In 2000 - Absolutely--somehow Juli Solter, the GM, and his team picked up on our unique perspective and appreciation for cuisine coupled with the joi de vivre that we bring to dining experiences. From the start the feeling was that they "knew us!"…this spirit coupled with the most unique preparations of food we have ever experienced makes El Bulli one of the top dining adventures ever. In 2001 - Never again. Although Juli was as wonderful as ever, the rest of the staff were going through the motions. At one point we asked how many plates were sent back to the kitchen barely touched - the answer, "no one really eats the food." Our experiences in 2000 - these are a summary of our notes What makes Adria different as a chef is not only his technique, but also his perspective, the way he approaches food. It is not just the use of foam or gelatin that sets him a part, but it is his using of these presentations in a wise,"make sense" manner. Here is the list of some of the dishes from both nights with limited explanation. On the terrace…9:00 PM Lime cocktail in martini glass, with foam and crushed almonds Candied corn in a glassine sleeve… Candied pistachio which looked like green chilis on a glass sheet Tapioca in a jigger to look like selle de mer Cube of apple jelly served on a spoon Bacon like candy with pine nuts--another jigger-standing up Foie gras-mango sandwich Cornets standing in crushed sesame seeds with fish tartar and quail yolk Calvados w/apple foaming cocktail Guacamole in a pastry tube Deep fried pig trotter Quinoa roasted in a paper cone,crunchy--eat like popcorn. Tomato sorbet in a puff that exploded in your mouth Parmesean cheese ice cream sandwich with parmesean toast At the table: (first night - not entire list) Cauliflower couscous with cumin, coriander and apple Monk fish liver w/foam cap gelatin of tomato with orange pieces Asparagus and parmigan cheese layered on bread Mushroom sampler-bottom to top, jelly of mushroom and mushroom water foam 7 different mushrooms in progression… Escargot with bacon in a "wrap" with fennel jelly sauce and snail boullion with butter ravoli, eaten individually Barnacles with dargelling tea foam Sardines rolled in bread served with aoli Rabbit w/foie gras and apple jelly At the table:(2nd night - not entire list) Hot to cold pea soup in champagne flute Frozen polenta with parmesean gelatin with egg yolk--eat polenta separately first. tagletari with calamari Egg/onion truffle ravoli Broad beans with mint sauce Coconut ravoli with soy sauce Palate cleanser of beet foam, cauliflower mousse, tomato yellow beet, basil, corn, almond and avacado sorbet. Sole with ravoli Foie gras with fennel jelly and apple sorbet accompanied by a very old sherry that was presented in bottle #2 of only 50 bottles made for the world about 200 years ago. Brioche soup with egg Sorbet stuffed with goat cheese and compari jelly. Cost--believe it or not…the two meals with all the wine, armagnac and cigars, etc…was under $ 600.00 total (that's both nights combined)…oh, a little aside, my husband went to pay the check around 1:30 on Saturday night [sunday AM] and Juli said, "oh, forget it for now, I'd rather have you owe it to me. We'll take care of the checks tomorrow night." An absolutely impossible to believe value--the world's greatest!!! Now to this year 2001. How do you describe a culinary disaster? Last night we were served a bad joke that lacked in skill with bad flavor combinations. It is one thing to be creative, but it is another thing when you can't eat the food. The problem is when you keep looking to surprise and surprise, you inevitably lose sight of the idea that food is meant to be eaten. There were 4 of us ( 2 very well-known chefs from the States who had made the trip on our recommendation, just to eat at El Bulli) None of us "got it." We kept looking at each other hoping that maybe one of us would understand, like and enjoy what was on the plate. The culinary disasters were many: 1. A cuttlefish dish in cuttlefish ink that was so obnoxiously flavored that it was inedible. 2. Tobacco in wild black currant that should have come with the warning "don't eat if you like food" or "eat this with great risk." 3. Slices of raw shrimp that was accompanied by a hot dog shaped tube that looked like a suppository .. inside with shrimp stock that you were suppose to suck. Phillip (not the real name of the chef) had not mastered sucking and ended up sucking his stuff all over the plate. He had the right idea - it belonged more on the plate than the palate. 4. A wild asparagus bundle with brown butter black olives and milk foam. The asparagus was overcooked, the bread covering limp with oil and the milk foam useless in this preparation. 5.Pumpkin with almond powder that was accompanied by a card sprayed with orange. You were suppose to smll the paper card and then eat a sweet glob of pumpkin. 6. Pieces of crispy stone crab that tasted as if the stones were still there and a sauce from the "shit" of the crab. 7. another tube of sucking contained morel mushroom essence. You were suppose to eat a sweet morel cookie and then suck out your essence. 8. 3 spoons containing flavors of the world - not food, just liquid tastes of Thai, Japanese and Mexican flavors. 9. 6 strips of jellied vegetables that were the essence again. It was so drowned in sesame oil that the flvor was completely masked. I could go on and on but you get the idea. By the middle of the meal we were literally refusing to put the food in our mouths. To be fair, there were 2 good dishes out of over 25. The ravioli of white truffles, ham and quail egg mollet was wonderful. Also he made a paella soup topped by rehydrated crunchy paella that was very good. Adria joined us after dinner - he had eaten in both of the chef's restaurants who were with us and had loved their food. We were suppose to eat at El Bulli again and Adria had arranged for the chef's table in the kitchen. Phillip absolutely refused to eat there again. However, I decided to play a joke on him. We met in the lobby of our hotel and I said,"Oh, Phillip, Juli(GM at El Bulli) called and he insists that we come tonight, so I said we would be there. There is no way to describe Phillip's face .. he sat down, crossed his arms and said,"No ------- way! You can go. I'm not going." We had made up an excuse that we had an emergency and had to leave to go back to the States. The cost. We were suppose to be 5 - one of the chefs, a 2 star Michelin chef, had to return to his restaurant. We were charged for 5 dinners, even though he wasn't there. The bill was very hefty! Also, the other 2 chefs with us, had comped Adria at their restaurants the year before. I wish I could explain this as maybe just one bad night. But there was a very telling article by Anthony Dias Blue in December's issue of Wine Country Living. I will quote just a bit of his article. " ....I am afraid that we might be sliding down that slippery slope to silly food - trivial food that satisfies neither the mind nor the palate. Let's hope that I'm wrong and that El Bulli really does mean 'bulldog' and not just plain bull." For me, I think, you can guess which one I think.
  17. I was very interested to read Jay Rayners review in the Observer today of The George hotel in Yarmouth, Isle of Wight http://www.observer.co.uk/life/story/0,6903,668701,00.html and was suprised to read that his amuse bouche was a version of Thomas Kellers Oysters and Pearls. It sounds like a dumbed down version with an oyster sitting in a salty broth with grains of tapioca. The original is a sort of custard made with sabayon, tapioca, creme fraiche and whipped cream with the oysters placed on top in a butter sauce of vermouth, oyster juices shallots and vinegar with some caviar on top. This must be the first instance of a Californian chefs signature dish turning up in an Isle of Wight kitchen isn't it? As you will read Jay didn't like the dish and likened it to snot! Has anyone had the original, did that taste like snot?
  18. Tony Bourdain just made this info available. It'll be in the new Columbus Circle ultra/mega/stupendo/mixed use site. Thats all I know.
  19. My kids eat like a bunch of pigs, and its been forcing us to buy stuff in bulk. Generally we've been freezing stuff in ziplock freezer bags but I have been told the "Food Saver" is good for eliminating freezer burn and is good for some other uses. Anyone here have one that can care to comment on it? How much does it cost? Where do you get one?
  20. No, but hardly an unenviable position from someone who loves to eat fine food more than talk about it as well as someone who prefers to talk about it rather than criticize it. It appears to be a nice site, by the way. Looking forward to greater examination.
×
×
  • Create New...