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  1. In Wal-Mart I just bought this rice. It's grown in Morelos and Guerrero apparently. It claims to have the thickest grain in the world. I can't vouch for that but it certainly is thick. It makes a great risotto-type dish. Has anyone else tried it? I am enthused. This company's web site is www.covadonga.com.mx They also offer arborio, whole, jasmine and sushi rice though I have not tried those. to understand the name, google covadonga for catholic iconology. But do try the rice. Apparently the US is importing it to create crosses and hybrids, Rachel
  2. I'm going on a trip to southern Arizona to visit the in-laws and will be able to purchase lots of Mexican ingredients in Tucson, Bisbee, and the surrounding area that I can't get here in RI. I plan to stock up on a wide range of chiles and to try to find some huitlacoche, but I expect to be overwhelmed with the choices. So, instead of pouring through Diana Kennedy recipes, may I invite you to participate in this little game? Pretend you have $100 of my hard-earned cash, and you want me to bring back to Providence a healthy larder of goods that travel well, are hard-to-find back here, and will reward me in the kitchen. Gracias.
  3. I am currently trying to put together a map of all the metate-making (and hence also molcajete-making) centers in Mexico. So I wonder if I can enlist the support of people on this list? When you are buying these in the markets, could you ask where they come from? And if possible find out the exact village name, not just something vague like Puebla, though the vendor may very well not know since she may have them from a middle man. And other comments would be most welcome (prices, sizes, numbers sold, description of type of rock and so on). It might be best to pm me. And Esperanza, I have your comments, thanks so much, Rachel
  4. There was some banter in the Small Town Dining thread in the Adventures in Eating forum about the Mexican food in France being laughably bad. In my experience, the actual quality of the food is not so bad as it is just plain mediocre, but at the same time it's really expensive which translates to a dissapointment for me almost every single time I try a new place. A lot of people ask why on earth we'd even eat Mexican food when in France, and it most likely does not seem a logical choice for people traveling to France for a visit, but many expats I know say that the single thing they miss foodwise about living here is the lack of quality Mexican food. It's something I crave every once in a while, that's for sure. I've taken to making my own tamales from time to time, and serving them when we have American guests, always appreciated, and Loic brought me a tortilla press when he went to Mexico last year. We also have a stock of various dried and some smoked peppers (I compiled my list from a thread in the Mexico forum and Loic got every kind I asked for) which add a whole new dimension. Every time one of my friends or colleagues goes to Mexico I ask them to bring me back some masa harina, which is not commerically available in this country. There is one authentic Mexican place in Vieux Lyon, on rue du Boeuf, called Mexico Lindo, that makes their own chips that come out hot to the table but they don't serve corn based dishes for the most part other than that. The chef at this restaurant came to Lyon to go to the Bocuse Institute, and then went back to Mexico after he graduated for a spell, then came back to Lyon to open his Mexican place. It's expensive but if you're craving the real thing, that's it. Are there any other places that serve good Mexican in Paris or elsewhere?
  5. Burrito Bros. Taco Co. 2209 West 1st Avenue 604-736-8222 Burrito Bros. Kitsilano I’d been aquiver recently, thinking that a quality taco emporium might be moving into the neighbourhood. Gord Martin hasn’t delivered on the fish tacos promise at Go Fish!, and frequent trips to Mexico remind me just how much I miss them. In Manzanillo, the taqueria stand at the end of our dusty road turns out handsome breakfast tortillas of pulled pork and hot sauce, served with a pint of fresh grapefruit juice, for one American dollar. Key to quality burritos and tacos is the quality of the tortilla itself. In Mexico, one person feeds hot-off-the-press tortillas to the person stuffing them—with pork, fish, beef or chicken. They are thin and pliant without being spongy. Unfortunately, the tortillas at Burrito Bros. are a letdown—their taste and texture being identical to the supermarket versions churned out by large-scale manufacturers and bereft of that fresh, slightly toasty corn taste that's a hallmark of Mexican cuisine. We ordered an early afternoon ‘Taco Trio’ ($6.99), with sides of sour cream (again, supermarket quality only, and heavily over-salted guacamole--$.99 each). With a Coke, the tab, including taxes, was $12.60. The Taco Trio (soft version) arrived 14 minutes after we placed our order—too long in my opinion. They comprised ‘Mexi Beef’ (spiced ground beef), ‘Fajita Steak’ (chopped sirloin with vegetables) and ‘Baja Fish’ (small pieces of breaded cod with salsa crema). The fish and steak versions were passable, slightly elevated with the routine hot sauces provided—Tabasco, Frank’s Red Hot and Tapatío picante. Missed opportunity there—why not provide some more interesting smoked chipotle versions—or housemade condiments? The ground beef version—a mush of angrily-spiced but characterless meat, was a write-off. The menu also features burritos, burrito bowls (an oxymoron waiting to happen), and ‘Quesa-Dealios’—jack cheese, jalapenos, salsa and sour cream. There’s a short Mexican beer list that numbers the usual victims and glasses of 1516 are available for $4.70; margaritas are $4.91, or $6.40 for a double. Breakfast burritos are $6.99, but beware the bait-and-switch pricing; sides such as the aforementioned guac and sour cream are additional. The salsa verde was average, and, although fresh tasting, a trifle mild for our taste. Burrito Bros. occupies a popular corner (adjacent to Adesso) near 1st and Yew in beautiful downtown Kitsilano, where walk-in traffic is a necessity because parking is tricky, especially at this time of the year. Complimentary sombreros are available to sun-challenged patio patrons. There are about 30 seats inside and half a dozen tables on the patio. The restaurant appears to have been decorated—from menu boards to faux-Mexican movie posters—entirely by Chalkstar.com. And perhaps that summarizes my disappointment with this restaurant —the closer you get the less autentico it gets--it’s as trite as a lime in a bottle of breakfast beer and equally as false. It has every appearance of a small-footprint concept-restaurant chain in waiting but doesn't achieve the ‘do one thing very well’ that other practitioners execute upon; it certainly didn’t revive my latent love for quality Mexican cooking, or even its Tex-Mex equivalent. How to improve? 1. Make regulation 6.5” tortillas by hand, in-house with fresh maze flour. Tortilla presses cost next to nothing. Make the tortilla station an eye-contact point and brand it. 2. Drill down on the fillings. Brown the ground beef before spicing. 3. Up the ante on the fillings—they seemed frugally portion-controlled to the extreme; Mexican taquerias are famously ‘free-pour’. 4. Add some interesting condiments, such as Dan-T’s smoky chipotle hot sauces, or create some interesting housemade condiments. Get some quality sour cream such as Avalon or Blackwell Dairies. 5. Ask the chef to taste his own cooking—the guacamole, otherwise well-made, could melt snow. 6. Get some spoons to convey the sides to the tacos—Burrito Bros. only offered knives and forks. 7. Hasten the food delivery time by at least 5 minutes. When we were there the restaurant was busy but hardly slammed and there was an abundance of service staff dawdling near the pass. 8. Add a quality, cabbagey cole slaw to the menu. 9. Serve soft drinks in a glass, with ice and lime. 10. Hang some garlands of smoked dried peppers over the pass; use them in the cooking.
  6. Just back from 3 weeks in Oaxaca, where we took language and cooking classes. I loved the comals. (I love bowls, or anything that is similar to a bowl. The larger the better.) We purchased 2, a almost large one (perhaps 22") and a smaller 15" (or so) one. We intended to hand carry the large one. The smaller one was packed in cardboard, and covered with bubble wrap (packed between rugs and table cloths). It was put in the suitcase. A @##$%^ airport guard put a suitcase on the large one, the smaller one broke in the suitcase (I prefer to think the TSA person broke it when our luggage was inspected. grrrr) Anyone know of a source for these wonders? Can I get a potter friend to make one? This was a bitter disappointment; we even brought back some "cal" (lime). Facts and opinions equally welcome. kcd (who really wanted the large 30"+ comal)
  7. Anyone have a good Mexican recipe for wild mushrooms? Yesterday in the market at Amecameca, I bought a bunch gathered from the woods up the volcanoe -- blue mushrooms (hongos azules) which are seriously strong tasting, almost bitter. Bright orange ones called "enchiladas," Juan Diegitos, which look like portobellos on the top, but are white underneath. And xocoyotlis, that look like clavitos, but are redish-coffee color. Any ideas would be appreiciated -- I just want to cook them before they start to slime up. Thanks, Will.
  8. Calling all you Mexican food historians out there. Okay, leche quemada. Its one of the most popular ice cream flavours in Mexico right? Does anyone have any information on how this very unusual flavour sensation came about. Has it existed for a long time or is it a fairly recent thing? s
  9. OK, I probably shouldn't be worrying about potatoes in Mexico. But I like to eat them from time to time. But if I buy regular size potatoes (the little red ones are fine) they are full of problems. When you cut them open, the texture, instead of being smooth, is ridged and lumpy. When you smell them, they have a strong smell that I would call earthy if that weren't an insult to earth. And when you cook them they go sweetish. I have the sense this means that if not frosted, they have been stored at too low a temperature. Does anyone else have the same experience? Or an explanation? Or a solution? Rachel
  10. Hi, Am inviting folks over for a Mexican dinner and am craving some chile relleno. Does anyone have a recipe they wouldn't mind sharing? Thanks in advance, Seema
  11. We have a CSA here in Rhode Island, and four weeks ago, instead of picking one of the usual herbs, I chose one I had never eaten, nor seen, nor heard of, which the folks there referred to as "papalo." (From the few mentions here, I understand that the full name is "papaloquelite.") They referred to it as a kind of "Mexican cilantro," which seemed a bit tautological -- and once I popped some in my mouth, I realized it was also reductive in the extreme. I loved it. While it has some of the profile of cilantro, it is more lemony and practically floral. We sauteed some salmon massaged in Reed Hearon's chipotle rub, threw in some chopped spring onions into the pan after the fish was done, and tossed the onions off heat with shredded papalo and a bit of lime to sit alongside the fish: it was great. Unfortunately, it turns out that a cabal of ding-a-lings phoned the CSA and basically demanded that they tear it up and plant basil. So, no more papalo from them for this year -- but I'm hunting for more. The nice folks at Cornell have a great papalo pdf here, and here's a good website on the herb. (Gourmetsleuth.com, on the other hand, has what looks like an incorrect image on their site.) So: ideas? recipes? seeds? sources? lore?
  12. An eon ago in the midst of a discussion about chile chilcoztli, I promised Shelora the recipe for a very old, very traditional recipe for a yellow mole made with chilcoztlis and chicken, and served with an hoja santa puree. Guess what I just found? Recipe follows. I hope that this can become a general discussion, Q&A, repository of tales all about moles ... the good, the bad, the mythic, and yes, the ugly. I have made this and I find it both strange and exquisite. It is from Alicia Gironella d'Angeli, and it is, on occasion, served at her DF restaurant El Tajin. Mole amarillo de San Pedro Ixcatlan, Oaxaca: 2 free range chickens, disjointed, breast halved or quartered, placed in pot with cold water to cover by 2.5 to 3 inches. Add salt to the water, and bring it to a boil; drop to a simmer and cook 30 or so minutes, or until the chicken is cooked. (if using only breasts, poach them in chicken broth or stock as they cook quickly and, even with poaching, loose flavor when overcooked) When the chicken is cooked, add 1 ounce of ground achiote seed (plain achiote, not achiote condimentado for a recado rojo), and two hoja santa leaves. Simmer 5 more minutes. At this point, let the chicken cool in the broth. Skin and shred the chicken, and place on a plate or in a bowl. Strain and defat the broth. Don't drive yourself crazy defatting it ... you just don't want a huge oil slick on the surface. Place the broth back in a cooking pan. Toast, seed, and grind 20 chiles chilcoztlis ( if you cannot find them, you can use guajillos, but with a bit of a different outcome ... still good). Put some of the chicken broth into a small pot and add 18 hoja santa leaves; cook for 10-15 minutes, strain the leaves out of the broth and discard it, and puree the leaves. Place puree in a small dish. Add the ground chiles chilcoztlis to the broth where the chicken was cooked. Dilute 9 ounces of masa, preferably fresh ( if using Maseca, make the masa accordfing to package directions and weigh out 9 ounces of the reconstituted masa) in a small amount of water and strain it into the broth with the chilcoztlis. Bring it to a simmer, add the shredded chicken, and allow it to cook until the broth/masa has thickened and the masa has lost its raw taste. Think chicken in cream sauce. It will be very yellow and have a velvety texture. Serve in dinner plates with a deep depression ... or shallow soup bowls. Garnish with the hoja santa puree. It is saffrony-yellow, velvety, aromatic, and the green hoja santa puree makes a sharp color contrast. Though the only mention of salt is for the water in which the chicken simmers, you should adjust the salt to taste before serving. There is a note containing a warning from the original recipe: " This is ritual food. It must be prepeared by one person only, because of its importance it demands sexual abstinence for four days prior to (and including day of) preparation." Enjoy, Theabroma
  13. Some weeks ago, I ran across a cartoon by Calderón in the newspaper Reforma. The point had to do with the long legal case involving Mexico City's mayor which was of consuming interest (sorry) in Mexico but not in the rest of the world. But the examples were drawn from food. It seemed to me an interesting and amusing insight into what the cartoonist assumed his readers would eat. The point is that each rule is broken all the time. A rough translation and no pictures. Chiles en nogada should not be capeados (cooked in batter) Donuts should not be dunked. Hot dogs should not have ketchup. Spaghetti should not be cut. Sushi should not have cream cheese. Hot chocolate should not be made with milk. Paella should not come with "everything." Beer should not be served in frozen mugs. Carne asada should not be well cooked. Esquites (corn kernels) should not be served with mayonaise. One starch should not be accompanied by another (torta guajalota or torta stuffed with tamal) Well, the sushi's certainly a lost cause. Mexican sushi without queso crema is almost unthinkable! Rachel
  14. so I've had this countless times, but have never made it myself...is this how you do it?: soak unshucked corn 10 minutes grill over medium heat for 15 peel back husks and coat cob with mayo/chile blend sprinkle with queso anejo or cotija re'wrap' cobs and grill for another 5-8 minutes. I want to make this for dinner tonight, so if anyone is an expert, I'd love to know soon!
  15. Understand that New Brunswick has a large Mexican Population, I was hoping there would be a few great places there especially for lunch today.. It can be from Taco Stand to nice place.. As long as no one suggests Marias Cantina, I am ok with it..
  16. Actually, a little bit before 33rd, if you're coming from downtown on Powell. After the Safari yuckyness and before the Cash Store yuckyness. It's in the parking lot of a newly painted dark green automotive place. We hopped off the bus after work and asked for one each of the al pastor and lengua. Sadly, he had no lengua and we settled for tripa. He also had pollo and asada. Cabeza was on the menu but also unavailable. The tacos were $1 each. They're traditiional in the sense that you get two little white corn tortillas (not handmade) but they were cooked a little crisper then I like. The al pastor was very good, much better then the truck up on Division in the same hood. I'm not sure where the tripa is supposed to hit texture-wise because I only have eaten it in menudo or in Chinese dishes where it's soft. Here it was a little two chewy for me, but tasty and crispy. There were two salsas and an avacado tomato pico de gallo type thing. The green one was a very nice roasted tomatillo one, the red was the kind from dried chillies and had a little vinegar. I liked them both. I was a little surprised to be asked if I wanted sour cream on the tacos, and turned it down, but went with the onions and cilantro and a hunk of lime (which is more what I'm used to). After we relished our snack we started chatting and asking about hours. He's there all weekday, and Saturday this weekend, but maybe not Sunday. Business wasn't that good last Sunday. He asked what we thought of the menu, because he's still working on it. Turns out he had lengua last week and all the gringos got grossed out and he couldn't sell it. That makes me sad because it's my favorite filling for tacos. He said a couple of guys were asking for it, and now us, so he'll try to have it next time. He's trying to make this go in an unusual location, with a clientel more used the McDs and Wendy's near by, so I understand about all the burritos on the menu and asking about sour cream on tacos, but it made me cringe. This was a very solid place, and we'd really like to see him stick around, so if you're in the SE and hungry, go check it out! regards, trillium
  17. Amigos: I'll be doing "research" (edible) in LA in a couple of weeks and I'm looking for recommendations for muy authentico soft tacos. I'm not squeamish (all fillings welcome) and I'm not nervous (any location is fine). It doesn't have to be a restaurant or even a hole in the wall. Trucks are fine, too, as long as you can give an approximate location. Soooo...Where do you go for the ultimate taco?
  18. Has anyone heard of this place in Northeast Philadelphia? It is "Mexican/French haute cuisine." Apparently it got a 29 from Zagat for food, so friends of mine who are in town this weekend want to try it. I figured I should turn to trusty Egulleteers for opinions before we went. Thanks! Diann
  19. I noticed keith talents comments about fish tacos in the opening and closings topic, i must say great rules for fish tacos, where are the best fish tacos you have ever had. Personally a cantina in cabo that only restaurant people would eat in.
  20. Has anyone used duck fat to make tamales? Can it be done? s
  21. Last night I made a mole verde for dinner. When I poured it from the blender into the pan, I expected some spattering, but nothing on the level that occurred. It was like the mud geysers at Yellowstone times ten. I immediately tried to stir it down with one hand while reaching for a pot lid with the other, but I still ended up with a rather spectacular mess. Even the stove knobs ended up in the dishwasher. Fortunately, the mole was worth it! So here's my question. I have made mole before, but never mole verde. Is it the higher liquid content that causes the spattering? Is there a secret to keeping it in the pan? Should I have a backup man standing with a spatter shield? Or should I just plan to make it when the kitchen needs a really good scrubbing anyway? Thanks- Linda
  22. I'm working on a book on funeral foods in various cultures. Recently, I interviewed a husband and wife team of restaurateurs in Dallas. She's from Colombia and he's from Mexico City. Both recall "emotion cookies" from their childhoods. As they explained it to me, you get a plate of almond-flavored shortbread cookies. Each cookie has a different flavored topping. The toppings are vivid flavors -- he named lavender, orange peel, cinnamon, a whole list of different things. You sit down with a cup of hot chocolate and then you choose a cookie with a topping flavor that reminds you of a moment with the person you've lost. As you eat the cookie, you reexperience the emotion that the smell or taste invokes. It's a way of communing with the person. He described as being almost like a seance, intended to evoke the person's spirit through an emotion that reminds you of them. I've done quite a lot of research into Dias de Las Muertos rituals, but I've never seen anything like that. I'd love to know more, if anyone has experienced this or has come across any reference to it. I'd appreciate any suggestons for source material. And certainly recipes!
  23. My local farmer's market turned up this wonderful specimen today. I have never seen this available in Canada, especially grown locally. Sunwing Farms here on Vancouver Island only has one vine and were thrilled that I knew the English (Spanish) name - Chayote. One of the farmers there called it palm squash because at a certain angle it looks like two hands pressed together. They had a Chinese name for it, but I didn't write it down, but will get it next time I go shopping. Que milagro!
  24. Did a search and found no evidence of this topic. Was wondering, when you purchase tortilla chips to go with salsa or guacamole, what chips do you buy? In the midwest, the best brand so far is "El Ranchero" - green bag, with salt.
  25. Every now and then since December 2004, a good number of us have been getting together at the eGullet Recipe Cook-Off. Click here for the Cook-Off index. For our ninth Cook-Off, we're going to be making Mole Poblano de Guajolote. If you're like me, you can't get decent mole poblano where you live; instead, you get the "Mexican" equivalent of Hershey's chocolate syrup, which is sure to make you wonder what the fuss is all about. But if you've ever had the rich, piquant, incredibly complex sauce made from dried chiles, spices vegetables, nuts, seeds, lard, stock, and chocolate... well, you're in for a treat. You're also in for an absurdly long list of ingredients and a substantial simmering time. But it's worth it, trust me -- and what other dish might get you seriously thinking about how delicious turkey is in May? As usual, our eGulleteer forebears have done a lot of good work for us. Here's a thread on mole poblano, a great tamale thread with Abra's mole photo essay, and a more expansive, and a bit older, mole thread. Starting researching recipes and sourcing ingredients people!
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