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  1. So, we are here in Paris at the Hotel Vendome (thanks Mr. Talbott for the advice. This is the second leg of our honeymoon, and we're having a blast... The problem is, we need to do laundry. At 5 euros for underwear and 10 euros for a shirt, the hotel service will cost me dinner at L'Arpege...I asked the people at the front desk, but they don't know. I tried googling, but couldnt find anything relevant. Does anyone know of a good internet based directory for here in Paris, similar to yahoo yellow pages, or superpages.com?? Or even a decent web portal, like Yahoo is in the US. Help!!! We're down to our last underwear!
  2. I'm asked about this all the time. I mean ALL the time by English and French speakers. (As if I'm reading Julia Childs or something. ) I have no idea what to recommend. I understand that English is lingua franca here, but I also need some French language books. Help!
  3. Greetings, I've cooked several recipes from Keller's "Bouchon" the last couple of weeks, and have loved them all! At the moment (as in right this minute) I'm making the boeuf Bourguignon, and am a little confused about the red wine reduction. After reducing the wine, herbs, and veg for nearly an hour now, I'm nowhere near the consistancy of a glaze that Keller specifies. In fact, it looks mostly like the veg is on the receiving end of most of it. Is this how the recipe is meant to be? Can anybody tell me what kind of yield is expected? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, kindly.
  4. DanM

    Smoked Beef

    One of the surprises from our move to Switzerland is the availability of kosher charcuterie. Sausages of all types, confit, mousse, rietttes, etc... One of the recent finds is this block of smoked beef. It has a nice fat layer in the middle. Any thoughts on how to use it? Should I slice it thin and then fry? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  5. Explanation. Yesterday I made a batch of duxelles and took photos of the process. I neglected to upload the photos to my computer yesterday and since last evening, I am at the home of an acquaintence, babysitting a basenji bitch who is ready to whelp at any moment and the owners are away from home, the wife at the dog shows in Palm Springs and the husband, an L.A. County firefighter, on duty because of the storms. I brought my camera along to take photos in case the pups are born on my watch. Unfortunately I needed to clear the memory card to make room so had to upload the photos so put them into image gullet. With not much else to do, I have edited the photos and uploaded them to my album. Fortunately they also have a Mac, and since I had already posted the recipe to my notepad in eG, I have decided to post this now. First the recipe: Duxelles Mushroom paste, a condiment/sauce. 1 1/2 pound Crimini mushrooms or Italian brown mushrooms. Minced finely in food processor or by hand. 6 ounces of butter 2/3 cup finely minced shallots (You can substitute an equal amount of mild onions with a large clove of garlic if shallots are unavailable.) 2 teaspoons Herbes de Provence 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt - use less if you have regular table salt. 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 2/3 cup Port, ruby or tawny are okay, Sherry can be substituted if Port is not available. 1/2 cup heavy cream Mince the mushrooms fairly fine in a food processor - do a small batch at a time so as to avoid over-processing. Line a colander with muslin (or a thin cotton dishtowel) and squeeze the mushrooms to extract as much liquid as possible. Squeeze liquid into a bowl and save for later.. In a large, heavy-bottomed, skillet or sauté pan melt the butter until it just begins to brown. Add the finely minced shallots, sauté, then reduce heat to a low simmer and cook until shallots are translucent and just beginning to show a light tan color. Add the Herbes de Provence and continue cooking for one minute, stirring constantly. Bring the heat up to medium and add the mushrooms. Stir constantly to mix the mushrooms thoroughly with the shallots and until the mushroom began to express some liquid. Reduce heat to low simmer. Continue cooking, stirring well every 5 minutes for 30 minutes. Add the salt and pepper, stir well. Bring the heat up to low medium. Sprinkle the flour evenly over the top of the mushrooms and stir well to mix thoroughly. Continue cooking and stirring constantly for at least one minute so the flour is completely incorporated and browned. Add the liquid squeezed from the mushrooms to the mixture. Add the Port and stir well. Continue stirring often for 2 to 3 minutes, the mixture should be bubbling well. Reduce heat to low simmer. Blend in the cream. Taste and add additional salt and pepper if needed to balance flavor. Continue cooking at a low simmer, stirring at 5 to 10 minute intervals for 30 to 40 minutes, until the mixture has the consistency of a thin paste. It should hold its shape for several moments when scraped into a mound. Cool and transfer to a container and store in the refrigerator. Use within a week. The mixture can be frozen in small amounts in airtight containers for up to 3 months, vacuum sealing is best. This recipe is my own interpretation of several recipes tried over the years and significantly altered from the originals. This condiment can be used as a sauce for meats, spread on toast or crackers. A dollop can be added to hard-boiled or deviled eggs. It can be spread on crepes and rolled up with other fillings. It can be added to meat mixtures for savory tarts. And, when combined with onion confit, is a wonderful complement to just about anything savory. Scalloped potatoes, with alternating layers of potatoes, onion confit and duxelles, is a wonderful side dish for a cold, rainy day. And, you could always use it in the traditional way, in Beef Wellington. And now, the picutres: First the mushrooms, brown Italian or Crimini are the best to use. Mince in small batches in food processor. they should look like this. Now mince the shallots The liquid has to be squeezed out of the mushrooms. It should look like this - save the liquid. The mushrooms don't have to be completely dry. Now melt the butter over medium heat in a heavy-bottomed saute pan: Add the shallots: and the mushrooms after the shallots have been cooked: Watch for the mushrooms to release liquid: Reduce heat - now begins the first reduction - 2/3rds of the way there: First reduction is done and the flour has been stirred in: Now the Port has been added: Now the cream has been blended in: Now begins the final reduction, half way there: Finished! We have achieved duxelles.....
  6. Can someone help me find a thread that talked about cheese shops in Paris? I don't think I am going crazy but I am sure I even participated in it! I just need some cheese shops in different arrondissements, I remember there were a few that vacuum packed the cheese for you. Thanks for all your help. (Ran searches but can't locate!)
  7. One of the owners of this French bakery I work at asked me today about this bird, which I think is a cross between a turkey and a chicken, for lack of a better explanation. I have a French cooking mag in which she had seen a recipe featuring it. Any info will be greatly appreciated! Thanks to all.
  8. Does anyone have an idea of what I might use in place of buttermilk? I'd like to make pancakes this weekend. Merci!
  9. I'm making the Boeuf Bourguignon tonight from my new Les Halles cookbook, and would love any suggestions for a red wine to use in the dish. The recipe just suggests a red burgundy, and while I love red wine, I am not familiar with burgundies. The only red I have in the house right now is a Bonnie Doon Syrah, which I doubt is appropriate, so I'm planning to head out soon and get something else, and really appreciate any ideas people may have. Thank you! Pam
  10. The first goat was slaughtered after they discovered it had mad cow disease. Another 200 or 400 were killed as a precaution tho they did tested MC free. This is in Ales.
  11. [This is the first cook-off; click here for the Cook-Off index. -- CA] In Culinary Bear's great thread on confit, Al_Dente mentions that he's thinking about trying Bourdain's cassoulet recipe in January. Turns out I had had the exact same dish in mind (and I finally just ordered Les Halles Cookbook from Amazon, with the eGullet link of course, to be able to use his recipe), and it made me wonder: Every couple of weeks, might it be possible for us to select some recipe, either from eGullet or a well-known cookbook, and all make it, eat it, snap photos of it, and compare notes and pix? I'm thinking of more involved dishes (like cassoulet). Like the Wine of the Week gang, different people could get tagged to facilitate, nag, and so on. I suggest this because I'm usually the only person in my non-virtual life who would be compelled to discuss the absurdly picayune points of cooking, but I can imagine a large number of similar obsessives around eGullet. If enough people are game, I think it would be a blast! So, what do you think? Any takers?
  12. Zoe is going to Cahors, Montpellier, and Dijon in October. She brought up an interesting question as a sidenote to her request for restaurant recommendations. She wants to know: I have never mailed cheese to the States, although when we were in L.A. we ordered it from Fromages.com and it came to us quickly, it was not pasturized, and in good condition (it was fedexed). What wacky things have people done to get food back home? How have you packed it to carry or to mail? Are there certain things you can recommend are better to send by post than to carry yourself? Any stories? What's allowed? What's not?
  13. Salut to everyone in the France Forum. Long time reader, infrequent poster to eGullet, I am currently enrolled as a culinary student at le Ferrandi in Paris. Officially known as Ecole Superieure de Cuisine Francaise - Ferrandi. Bux suggested I post about my experience as a student there. A quick summary. Le Ferrandi is a French Ecole, operated by the Paris Chamber of Commerce. The school itself is quite large and along with the culinary programs there are programs in patisserie, boulangerie, catering and hotel management. There are hundreds of French students attending the school and most of them are in their late teens or early twenties. They pay nominal fees, since like most education in France it is almost entirely subsidized by the government. In addition to the French programs there are a number of international programs. I am in a program that is designed for “english speakers.” There are a total of 20 of us, and we are divided into two groups of ten. Some classes are conducted in English, most in a combination of English and French. However in other situations, for example when we are working for the school restaurant, everything is in French. Some of the chefs speak English and the students in our group are meant to be learning French, if we don’t already speak it. Our program is almost identical to what the French culinary students are learning in the first year of their studies (after the first year, a small group of the best students are invited to attend a second year). The program is 1200 hours of classical french cuisine and includes sessions on regional variations, patisserie, boulangerie, charcuterie, and french language and culture. Our weeks generally alternate between pegagogie and production. My French dictionary defines pegagogie as “educational methods.” In pedagogie we tend to work individudally on a specific menu for that day. For example, two weeks ago we spent an entire week on various preparations for rack of lamb. The chef is there to give guidance and instruction, but each student has to prepare the dish alone and present the finished product for evaluation at the end of the session. During production weeks we work the lunch service (occasional dinners) for one of the schools public restaurants. For production we are paired up with one of the groups of French culinary students. Individuals are assigned to stations, garde-manger, viandes, etc. and we work with the French group as a team for service. We have one day of patisserie every week and every other Friday we prepare a special regional menu for ourselves. Last Friday the region was Savoie-Dauphine and there was a very hearty tripe en cocette on the menu. Interesting side note: I read somewhere during my research into culinary schools that the French Culinary Institute in NYC is modeled after le Ferrandi. We started in September and we finish in June, so I am about half-way through the year now. I will do my best to post regularly on what we are doing. a bientot, Lisa
  14. Notice I said I keep it inside the cooler, then inside the refrigerated compartment on the airplane. Though I have had a few times where it has started to ripen so furiously, that we all have a fun time (the flight attendants) accusing each other of flatulance! But damn it taste good (theEpoisse)! BTW the Auchan at the Defense is an awesome store. Wegmans does not even come close! Hooligan, I am new to this board, I had never heard of Nectar, (not a true foodie I guess) but I looked up your website, it sounds wonderful. How is your winelist? Corkage Fee? AND do you serve EPOISSE?
  15. I know we have great artisanal bakers here in the States. Every big city in the US has a slew of them. But every time I go to France, whether in Paris, Provence or Burgundy, the baguettes taste so much better. Crispier crust, sweeter, not as hard to chew, and also tend to taste good much longer. It doesn't matter where I pick it up-a train station, a patiserrie, a deli. or a restaurant-they all taste better than Stateside. So what gives? Alex Bernardo
  16. The Montorguiel thread made me reflect on macarons we had sampled. Chocolate are my favorite; nothing subtle there. One year we overdosed on samples from Hermes, Hevin, Maison du Chocolat, Ladurie and Paul. Frankly, I thought that the flavor was cleanest in the least expensive ones at Paul. Several others actually tasted stale or had off-flavors. Prices range from around $3 to $5 a piece, although there are large differences in size. Pauls', the cheapest, are also the largest. I did notice on our last trip that Ladurie was featuring a new flavor: very dark chocolate. Because I liked theirs among the least, I didn't bother to try this interesting variation at that time. What are your favorites?
  17. We are hosting a dinner for a few friends on July 21st all of whom are very keen followers of Le Tour. Other than Gateaux Paris-Brest we have drawn a blank on cycling related menu items......any ideas please.
  18. a good one can be found at Au Landhof Olwisheim A L'osthof Eckwersteim nice peacocks too
  19. The name, the word, the sound: Clafoutis (please correct my spelling, but your thoughts on the name? plush, decadent, stuttering...)
  20. I've looked on the net and in my extensive library, and I can't find any recipes, and scant reference to sauce 'bois boudrin'. I'm sure someone here can help. Thanks in advance.
  21. From The Guardian in London, in today's edition: Cuisine goes back to college Jon Henley in Paris Wednesday October 15, 2003 The Guardian Alarmed by a waning of France's global prestige in all things culinary, the government is to establish a university of gastronomy. "Haute cuisine these days is international: you can find great chefs and wine experts everywhere," Renaud Dutreuil, minister for consumer affairs and traditional businesses, told Le Parisien yesterday - acknowledging that, as gourmet tastes become ever more adventurous, many critics now say classic French cooking is crushed by tradition, and that better food can be eaten in Brussels, New York or even London. "France has to impose itself more visibly as the country of reference for taste," the minister said. "This university, the first of its kind in the world, will aim to do precisely that. It will become a sort of Harvard of taste." It opens next September at Reims in the Champagne country, and will accept 100 students - "French restaurateurs who hope to improve themselves, Americans in the food-processing business, great chefs from, say, Denmark or Japan" - for training in "arts of the table and French culinary history". Tutors would be historians, sociologists, chefs, biologists, and "great professionals in the trades of taste," the minister said. There would be offshoots for regional gastronomy and viticulture. "France is renowned for its cuisine, but it lacks a training tool to spread this knowledge across the world," Mr Dutreuil told the paper. "We need ambassadors who will represent our culinary heritage."
  22. I have a few French recipes with 'échine de porc'. I've searched the net and found some say it's pork shoulder and others say it's spareribs. Any idea?
  23. Has anyone seen a site or store for the chefs jacket designer called Alaine Robineau ?? Or seen any other good chefs jacket retailers and designers?
  24. I'm looking for recommendations for the best (and also the healthiest) cookbooks which are based on the cuisine of Alsace. Any advice please?
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