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  1. So I know that mirepoix -- the mix of onion, celery and carrots typical in French cooking -- is supposed to be the backbone or starting point of stocks, broths, soups and sauces. Having learned much of my cooking from traditional texts like Mastering the Art of French Cooking, I absorbed that lesson. For years I made my stock with the trio and then used that for soups and sauces. Then I started making my stock without anything but meat and bones and decided it made for a much better result -- if I want the taste of vegetables I add them later. I gradually stopped automatically using mirepoix and found that in most cases, it made an improvement in my cooking. I was reminded of this recently when I made tomato soup using a recipe I found that called for the usual mix of onion, carrot and celery. I figured I'd give it a try again, but sure enough, it wasn't great. Not only was the tomato flavor severely muted, but since the soup was only partially blended, it also left little bits of carrot and celery in the soup, which were offputting. I'm glad I gave it a try, because now I know I was right. No more mirepoix for me (at least not automatic mirepoix). Am I the only one?
  2. Boyfriend and I rented an apartment in Beaune for the month of April. I still can't believe it. Markets and cooking and baking and eating and speaking and eating (he doesn't drink wine!) and walking and more markets and brocantes and cooking and eating. Finding the best croissant. The best fromagerie. You get the picture. We just want to explore every day. Maybe a cooking class if there is something interesting looking. We won't have a car. May rent bikes. Lots of buses and trains. What can't we miss in Burgundy? Thanks for any and all information provided!
  3. I'm no kind of pastry chef or even a particularly keen pastry eater. (I tend towards the savoury rather than the sweet.), but I thought this article by the BBC would be interesting to all the eG pastry chefs. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-24609525. Nice to see innovation.
  4. I thought I'd learn some more precision and improve my method of cooking vegetables, so I recently got this book. The recipes aren't complicated. Following the recipes is the tricky thing; I'm a throw-in-a-bit-of-this-and-a-bit-of-that-and-see-what-happens kind of cook. I'll write what I think of the book when I've tried a few more of the recipes. For now, here's the first one I made: Pommes rôties au laurier - roast potatoes with bay The first step in this recipe is to slit the potatoes (I used Exquisas) and slip some slivers of bay inside the incisions. Then you roast them in a mixture of stock and olive oil. Here they are ready to go in the oven: The unusual thing about these roast potatoes is that they're half-way submerged in liquid at the start of cooking. The plan is for the stock to boil off and the potatoes then to roast in the oil; you don't parboil the potatoes first. It's really more of a braise. After 40mins in the heat: The potatoes are very tender after 40mins bubbling away in their bath. They taste - and you'll hardly credit it - of bay, so can make friends with any dish that likes bay. The flavour is pronounced, but perhaps not as much as you would expect with that many leaves getting involved. They are also attractive to look at. On the other hand I had to pour the stock off for the final part of cooking as it didn't evaporate as intended. I will try the recipe again with larger potatoes and a shallower dish - the size and shape of the vessel and the vegetables are left to the imagination by the recipe. That meant pouring off the oil too, which probably affected the texture at the end. There was also a bizarrely large quantity of oil specified so I only used about a fifth of it. The potatoes taste rather one-dimensional; I would perhaps prefer them with some garlic slices stuffed inside as well. We ate them with a green salad and flageolet beans, with a French Domaine Vocoret Chablis in the glass.
  5. My husband and I are thinking of doing a Rungis market tour in Paris in October. We're not food professionals, so to my knowledge the only way to gain access is a paid tour through Visite Rungis or other more expensive private guides. It's 65 euros each, and they bus us out to the market at 5 in the morning, we tour the market and have breakfast. Seems a bit steep, especially considering we can't purchase anything - looking only. But I think it would be fascinating to see. And I hope to get an article out of it. Plus I love food photography, and since I've joined the ranks of digital-SLR toters, I think I could just go crazy taking pictures. Anyone know of a way to see the market that won't cost 130 euros? When I think of the food I could buy with that money, I begin to doubt whether we should do it. On the other hand, how often will I happen to be in Paris on the second Friday of the month when the tour is offered? And maybe they will have truffles - I've never smelled fresh truffles at 5 am.
  6. I'll be in Paris mid-October. The same time two years ago I had my first truffle experience, in Alba. Please pardon my ignorance, but will it be possible to have something with fresh white truffles in Paris during Italian truffle season? I emailed Le Maison de la Truffes and they said they have only truffles in jars in October. Thanks for any guidance you can provide to this truffle-addict.
  7. Based on a survey of its culinary experts, Le Figaro has issued its short list of the best croissants in Paris. On one day, they gave tastings of 64 croissants to the team of experts. the top 4 were as follows: 1. Pierre Hermé. Top honors. 2. Le Triomphe, 95 rue d'Avron, 20e. 3. Laurent Duchène, 2 rue Wurtz, 13e. 4. Gérard Mulot, 76 rue de Seine, 6e. Poilane finished 10th. What's your favorite in Paris?
  8. World Cup Food: What’d’ya eat? Boy oh boy, what a last 36 hours! Today, as I sat glued to the TV watching Trinidad and Tobago deftly holding off Sweden and Drogba singlehandedly try, but ultimately be unable to, best Argentina, I thought, I shouldn’t be eating “normal” food, I should be indulging in beef jerky, ndole and beef respectively. Now, as a child of WWII, I draw the line at gorging on knockwurst and sauerkraut at every German goal, or over-cooked mutton when the Brits score (altho’ Beckham can sure bend ‘em can’t ‘e?), but there are so many new-comers to this year’s soccer-football feast, how do you do suitable homage to their respective cuisines? A bit back, there was a terrific thread on what to eat during the Tour de France. I’d like to stimulate us in a similar fashion to think of how we will honor the great and tiny nations that qualified for this wonderful event by suggesting what we might eat as the days next week unfold. So, for tomorrow, where do we pick up Serbian- Montenegrin cheese envelopes for breakfast, Persian rice and lamb for lunch and Angolan fish soup for dinner, etc.? I can certainly handle Monday, right, pickles and miso soup for breakfast, a foie gras hamburger (see the Digest) for lunch and pasta with the grandkiddies for dinner. But afterwards? Togolese, Croatian, Ecuadorian?
  9. Does anyone else have this problem? We have so far been unable to find really good beef down there in the South West. Nothing that matches the best of British or American steaks or roasts. The pork, lamb, mutton, veal and fowl are superb, no problems at all. Our theories are: One, the French like their beef very lean so raise breeds that produce that kind of meat. (we note that there's very little marbling in French beef); Two, they don't age their beef here as long as a good butcher in the states or the UK would; Three, the cows here are mainly grass fed & not fattened up on corn as they are elsewhere; Four, a combination of one through three. Anybody know a good beef butcher? Any other theories?
  10. What’s in the markets in June The following are in full season in June (the underlined ones are the major items): lobster, crabs, spider crabs, sardines, pigeon, duck, rabbit, chicken, rabbit, veal, cottage cheese, goat cheese, Camembert. Pont l’Eveque, Livarot, Chaource, cabri ariegeois, artichokes, beans, peas, herbs, tomatoes, zuccini, girolles, strawberries, cherries, figs, apricots from Sernhac (only 24 June) and almonds. Once again, I’m relying principally on the Almanach du Gastronomie by Armelle de Scitivaux (Bottin Goumand, 1998, 133 FF) and the June-July Regal.
  11. May 18th's Le Monde has an article by Jean Claude Ribaut (that just got posted on the web) on garlic from Arleux (between Arras and Cambrai) smoked in hay, sawdust and peat. He says that it was a preparation of frogs with such powerful garlic made by Escoffier for the Prince of Wales that led to the English calling the French "frogs" or "froggies" [sic] over the past 100 years. Etymologists: man your posts {and don't kill me, I'm just the Digester/rapporteur.}
  12. At the risk of starting another 'cassoulete' type debate I would still like to find one or more "definitive" recipies for Toulouse sausage. The name 'Toulouse' seems to be somewhat generic for most of the pork based fresh sausage produced here in the South West of France. As I eat the sausage produced by various butchers in the towns around our area I can detect differences, sometimes subtle, somethimes not. Please let me have your thoughts. Looking in some of the other forums I note that there seem to be a lot of sausage makers out there.
  13. I'll get in trouble over this post as I have done with some others, but much as I love the cheeses of France (just ask the various fromagiers locally & at nearby markets; the all love to see me coming & my wife says that at times I'm getting mouldy.) I still have not found a really good substitute for a really nice sharp farmhouse cheddar. I've tried Cantal of various ages, Laguilole also of various ages and Salers yet again of various ages. They are all wonderful cheeses, but just don't taste the same as a good cheddar. Any suggestions?
  14. My quest for Philadelphia restaurant or food shop vichyssoise has been a flop. Only version I found had the texture of applesauce. Look's like I'm going to have attempt my own. Found a good recipe here: Vichyssoise, but it doesn't say what type of potato works best - baking or boiling - waxy or mealy. Any suggestions?
  15. We are planning our yearly Christmas trip. Every year we go to a different wine region of France. Our research from the Languedoc/Rousillon area, shows that it is one of the largest wine producing areas in France. However, the literature we have received from the Tourist departments, shows no actual "Route du Vin", like other regions have. Any idea where we would find this? Any idea which city we should base ourselves in? Restaurants? Wineries to visit? (I know, I know, everything is probably closed the week between Christmas and New Year's, this happens to us every year, wherever we go.) The information we received from Carcasonne didn't seem all that interesting. We usually like to stay in a larger city in the area, and take day trips. Should I post this on the "Wine" thread instead? Also, I assume there is a difference in spelling for the Roussillon in this Southwest part of France and the Rousillon in Provence, which we've been to. Thanks for all your help.
  16. This 2 July will be the 15th annual festival in tiny Chateauneuf-le-Rouge. Has anyone been before? You can see part of last year's program on the town's website, but I can't seem to find this year's program anywhere online. It looks fantastic though and I think we'll definitely try to make it.
  17. What’s in the markets in July The following are in full season in July (the underlined ones are the major items): sardines, tuna, lobster, crabs, langoustes, langoustines, ceteaux, anchovies, lamb, l’Ossau-Iraty, camembert, Pont l’Eveque, Livarot, goat cheese, cornichons, apricots, beans, tomatoes, zuccini, peppers, girolles, fraises des bois, cepes, strawberries, raspberries, other red fruits, melons and peaches. Once again, I’m relying principally on the Almanach du Gastronomie by Armelle de Scitivaux (Bottin Goumand, 1998, 133 FF) and the June-July Regal.
  18. Remember the old Ripple and other laughable wines with the screw top? The 2 guys Bartles and Jaymes (They were actors) and their cheap screw top wine ads on TV? Well it seems that scientific studies show that screw tops do a better job of preserving the wine in the bottle than a cork. The biggest problem is psychological. The French feel that the public just won't go for a screw top on a wine, it connotes poor quality. I know I myself would feel a bit peculiar opening a nice wine with a screw metal cap. There is just something nice and traditional about a cork. Plus, what would those French waiters and sommeliers do, they have such style and panache when they open your bottle at your table. The popping sound is fun as well. Anybody here that wouldn't mind a fine wine with a screw top? Here's the news story from Bordeaux: Wine bottles with Screw Tops
  19. With apologies to Tim O'Brien, I'd like to start a thread on "The things they carried" on what those of us who cook and eat bicontinentally schlep back and forth. This parallels in some ways Lucy's thread on Expat substitutions. I'm not sure this is of interest, but let me recount the stuff we bring in each direction. Mind you, things are quite different now than 20-30 years ago when you had to go to Bon Marché or Izraël for exotic items, now our Monoprix carries Illy coffee, Heinz catsup and nachos. In any case, coming West-East we bring American/Jewish horseradish (the French raifort is quite different), Mueske’s Canadian bacon (despite Lucy and P’titpois’ advice), light (Kikkoman green label) soy sauce and Heinz Chili sauce. Coming East-West we bring La Perruche raw sugar (available at Whole Foods, Zabars, etc, but at double the price), Richard (ditto at liquor stores), harissa and French/European dark chocolate (ditto again). PS If you think this is déjà vu all over again, you’re correct; I posted then deleted this and in the process lost Lucy’s comment about PAM, Menton1’s about Misto and hathor’s about horseradish, was it?
  20. I have several good collections of French regional foods and several books on specifc regions (Alsace, Corsica, The South-West, Burgundy), but after my trip to the Dauphine last year I realize that there are many many interesting regional dishes that are not covered in these books and inspired by Kevin's Italian regional cooking thread, I would like to devote at lest one meal a week to trying to educate myself on some of the lesser know dishes/regions. Are there on-line or published resources that people would suggest?
  21. I've made maybe 10 of these over the last 15 years with always different results. Sometimes recipes call for yeast for the dough, sometimes not. I never seem to keep hold of the recipes I like best though. Just started one for today, that called for yeast. However, the yeast however never foamed, so I just threw it in with the flour and salt anyhow. Dumb? Chuck the whole mess and begin again? Id like this one to be perfect. Help much appreciated.
  22. Can anyone direct me to a foolproof, or detailed procedure for the execution of pommes souffle? I have been experimenting with width cut, oil temperatures, time between frying low temp and high temp, cooling between frying. I have not found a method yet that gets me the perfect, puffed pommes souffle every time. Thanks in advance for any help or direction. Ben
  23. This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Jacques Genin and Pierre Marcolini Chocolate Recon Lovely chocolatier Questions about a la Petite Fabrique Chocolatiers of Paris NYT Buche de Noel C Constant
  24. This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Japanese vs French pasteries Pierre Herme Galettes des Rois Amandine Patisserie and Fashion Toulouse patisseries Tourte Petite Tarte Paris Patisseries closed in August Breakfast in Paris Culinary haute couture Pierre Herme Dorie Greenspan and Paris sweets J-P Hevin Back to Herme What Do You Bring Home Tarte Tatin Breton Pastries In and Around Paris (pics and addresses)
  25. This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. A saucisson sec tasting Charcuterie, Best Programs? Boudin Noir
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