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  1. Q&A with the Modernist Cuisine Team The Society for Culinary Arts and Letters is thrilled to be able to offer this Q&A with the team behind Modernist Cuisine: The Art & Science of Cooking. This ground-breaking multivolume work has spawned two discussion topics, one focusing on the book and one devoted to cooking with the book. In this topic, we will have the unprecedented opportunity to explore the book's development, design, and production with the team that made it happen. The book authors -- Nathan Myhrvold (Society member nathanm), Chris Young, and Maxime Bilet -- worked with editor-in-chief Wayt Gibbs to answer several questions we posed. The team also shares for the first time a multipage arc of content that traverses several volumes across a crucial content area: how understanding the weirdness of water can benefit your understanding of cooking. (Please click on the thumbnails of each page below to see a larger image.) What follows provides an opportunity to get to know Modernist Cuisine that much better, a book that many are hailing as one of the most important publications in the history of cooking. In addition to the excerpts and initial Q&As, Wayt Gibbs will respond on behalf of the MC team to your questions. We hope that you enjoy this opportunity to take a glimpse at this remarkable book.
  2. I picked up this book recently and had my first chance to cook with it this evening. I was drawn to it because many of the recipes within can be made with simple, fresh ingredients that I can easily locate. And couscous, which I can get at the Carrefour. The first thing I did was set some preserved lemons going: This is the simple, four-day method that calls for lemons boiled in brine for about a half hour; then covered in oil. Then, the chicken roasted with honey, cinnamon, and ginger - Roast Chicken with Couscous, Raisin, and Almond Stuffing, p. 92. The top got too close to my element, but it tasted exceptional. The honey sauce that drips off the chicken is just the thing for drenching the couscous with to serve. The only ingredient I couldn't get was the orange-flower water, which I simply left out. On the side, I made the Mashed Eggplant and Tomato Salad, p. 42 because I'll eat eggplant served up pretty much any way I can. Really good. I plan on making this throughout the summer - with bread and cheese it would be enough for dinner on a hot night. I only wish I had better quality olives. There was plenty for leftovers for lunch, too. Once the lemons are done, I've got the chicken, olive, and preserved lemon tagine bookmarked to try. If anyone else has got this book, I'd be interested in seeing what you've tried or hearing what's good.
  3. I've been looking through a lot of old cookbooks and culinary magazines on Google books and noticed this. Apparently, if you want to avoid getting sick in the winter, you should eat lots of fat. I guess it was most shocking to me because in todays overly cautious world, virtually nobody would suggest to increase you fat intake for nearly any reason. http://books.google.com/books?id=E1kBAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA327&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U01NhL6dSdPr4csM9bYjhWd8FDBOw&ci=29%2C156%2C914%2C1248&edge=0 Has anybody else noticed similar items in their old books?
  4. The eminent cookbook author Bernard Clayton Jr. passed away recently. From the NY Times' obituary, Clayton's Complete Book of Breads was probably one of the first "bread" books I owned. It's practically encyclopedic. As are his Complete Book of Pastry and Complete Book of Soups and Stews. Well, at least encyclopedic for their respective times. Maybe not the first books I turn to now for technique, but always good for an inspiration or two. Do you have any of his books on your shelves?
  5. Cristina Ferrare's Big Bowl of Love with interviews in her home kitchen (lovely kitchen, and very practical) has been on every local news program this morning. I just watched the third I have seen today - this one on ABC Channel 7 - and the enthusiasm of the interviewer was catching. I just ordered the book, mostly because of the descriptions of some of the recipes on a segment on another station. I also have had her book "Family Entertaining" for many years. Amazon does not yet have the "Look inside" feature for this book but it is probably in the near future. I certainly enjoyed the few cooking segments I saw her present on Oprah, although I rarely watch the show, I did tune in for a few because I like Christina's attitude.
  6. Can anybody recommend any good books for chutney/relish making? Preferably something that's available in the UK - but open to looking elsewhere. Many Thanks Darryl.
  7. Recently, I've been conducting research for an intermediate cooking class (topic here), and that's led me to both books I hadn't read, and a couple that have been on my shelf for quite a while but that I'd forgotten about. They're worth mentioning here, since they're great resources for those of us looking to improve our techniques and our ability to improvise, and I don't think there are discussions on them already. The first is one that I'd heard of but never read: Tom Colicchio's Think Like a Chef. It was published in 2000, about the same time as Colicchio opened Craft. It opens with a series of technique lessons: roasting, braising, blanching, stocks, sauces. What lifts the chef's approach above the ordinary is both his straightforward style and his clear appreciation for (pardon the expression) craft. He also defines -- for example -- roasting, in a way that makes sense but isn't necessarily how everyone thinks of it. Finally, he doesn't stick with the tried and true: he roasts salsify and tomatoes and braises artichokes (an old technique that needs reviving) and snapper. The second section is called "Studies." In places it seems like an excuse to toss a few more recipes into the book, but there are lessons along the way: caramelized tomato tarts (he does the same thing with mushrooms) and polenta gratin with mushroom "bolognese" are really lessons in how to think in new ways about taste, texture and technique. "Trilogies" are groups of three ingredients (asparagus, ramps and morels, for example), which Colicchio puts together in different ways, again to showcase flexibility and imagination. Finally, the chef explains what he calls "Component Cooking," where he engages seasonality and tries -- with modest success -- to put everything together. This final section has some terrific recipes for elements designed to elevate a meal. What's most interesting about this section is how, without saying so, it describes much of what goes on in terms of menu planning and production at good restaurants. If you've got endive chutney, pickled ramps and pan-fried zucchini blossoms in your repertoire, it's that much easier to put a compelling menu together. All in all, I'm not sure you'll come away from the book thinking like a chef. But you'll be thinking a bit more like Tom Colicchio, and if you're a cook, that's a good thing. I've got a couple more to talk about, but meanwhile, what's on your shelf gathering undeserved dust?
  8. Fine Cooking is a cooking magazine published bimonthly by The Taunton Press. It generally features articles written by guest writers who are experts in whatever topic they happen to be discussing: for example, in the issue I have in front of me right now, Peter Reinhart has an article on pizza (he is perhaps best known for his book The Bread Baker's Apprentice but has also authored a book on pizza, American Pie: My Search for the Perfect Pizza). In addition to the food articles and accompanying recipes, the magazine also features equipment and ingredient reviews (these don't appear to be as thorough as those in Cook's Illustrated, for example, but they are at least moderately useful when it comes to narrowing the field). I started subscribing to FC in a few months ago, and so far I have been very pleased with the quality of the recipes. In particular, I love the "Quick and Delicious" section at the back of every issue. Even though the recipes are very fast to make, they don't seem to sacrifice flavor or ingredient choices (that is, they are still basically "made from scratch" dinners, and sometime are quite sophisticated: "30 minute meals" they are not ). So, to start of our discussion and analysis of the recipes in FC, I present: Vietnamese-Style Caramel-Braised Chicken (May 2008, No. 92) Recipe here if you have online access This recipe actually had me a little worried: didn't quite know what to expect. The gist of it is that you make a caramel, then add fish sauce. To me, the quantity of fish sauce called for seemed very high, and the idea of literally making a caramel as the basis of a savory dish was something I had never tried. It also added an element of challenge to the dish: this recipe is in the "Quick and Delicious" section at the back of the issue, but "Q&D" does not imply "easy"---the recipe basically says "make a caramel: cook to deep amber over medium-high heat." Well, in a large saute pan over medium high, the difference between "medium amber" and "charcoal" is not very large. Keep your eye on the pan!! Well, I managed that OK, and then added the fish sauce and "WHOOSH" I am inundated with a cloud of fish-sauce vapors , since of course the caramel was very hot. I gotta tell you, that is not my favorite smell ever. But I soldiered on, added the last couple ingredients, tossed in the chicken and finished the dish (which takes about 15 minutes total). I also sautéed some baby bok choy (as directed in this topic) and made made some sticky rice. The real surprise of the evening was how tasty the final product was: I really had no idea what to expect from this ingredient combination, and it actually turned out very well. The sauce was very flavorful (careful how much you ladle on!) and not nearly as sweet as I was expecting. I think the final result probably depends a great deal on just how "medium amber" you make your caramel, and mine was a little on the dark side of "medium," but for a first shot, not too shabby. I don't know that the flavor said "Vietnamese" to me, and my wife thought it tasted mostly like a soy sauce base, but overall considering the time investment, this recipe is a keeper for nights when I'm in a hurry. Has anyone else tried this one, or have any other FC recipes they want to discuss here? I'll try to get caught up on posting the few things I've tried so far. Edited to add: the recipe calls for chicken thighs, but as you can see from the photo, I used breasts. I think it would be better with thighs, but my better half disagrees.
  9. As has been mentioned around these parts, the CIA just published a third edition of Garde Manger: The Art and Craft of the Cold Kitchen. I've finally ordered a copy for myself, and I'm eager to start digging into the book, having consumed Charcuterie by Michael Ruhlman. I'm wondering where to start in the book. Personally I'd like to hear about people's experiences with charcuterie, but I hope the topic itself can focus on all components of the book. So: where to begin?
  10. Sur La Table has entered the cookbook market, but instead of following Williams Sonoma's example of single subject books, they've come out with Things Cooks Love, (which is also the name of their new branded line of cooking gadgets -- I think it makes a better brand name than cookbook title, but maybe that's just me.) It's not surprising that much of the book seems to be dedicated to equipment. Not having seen the book itself, I can't say how useful it is, but it could be a good reference for the new cook. Likewise the "Global Kitchen" section, which is designed to give "comprehensive looks at the implements of global cuisines, detailed lists of essentials you’ll want in the pantry for a culinary tour, plus delicious recipes to put it all together." Regardless of the execution, it doesn't sound like something I'd get for myself, but I can see it being a nice gift if it's done well. Has anyone seen this?
  11. My dear addicts, you seen this.... http://www.amazon.co.uk/Big-Fat-Duck-Cookbook/dp/0747583692
  12. Hello Canuck lovers (got family in Ontario but they know nothing) could you please point me in the direction of your best, high end, fancy pants, cook books in the English, please?
  13. Does anyone out there have any good suggestions for Thai food? I just moved to Seattle and am surrounded by fantastic Thai restaurants and am wanting to try it at home.
  14. Can anyone direct me to any antique cookbooks that are viewable page by page online? I already know about the excellent Feeding America site, and I'm wondering if there's anything else like it out there, either individual books or collections. Thanks.
  15. Has anyone seen or bought Stephane Glacier's new book on macaroons? The ingredients page says: "Powdered sugar, also called granulated sugar", otherwise it looks OK. Way too big, though. It has 3 or 4 non-Parisian macaroon recipes. I was hoping for more. Anyone bake from it?
  16. Hi - we are in the process of opening a wine and cheese shop. How the heck do I order books? We want to have a small collection (like 25 books) that we have read and would like to retail....Omnivore's Dilemma, Great American Cheese, etc...... How do we go about procuring these books at wholesale? Thanks!
  17. Sam Mason mentioned in an interview last year that he was thinking of doing a book. I know he pops in on the forums here occasionally so I'm starting this thread to see if I can drum up support for the idea from others. That book is something I'd really like to see happen, I've done almost every recipe of his that I've been able to find and I want more to learn from.
  18. Today at the farmer's market, I bought a fistful of the most fragrant tarragon I've ever encountered. Tonight, I chopped a little and sprinkled it over some fresh black drum that I also got at the market. Very nice. But now I'm still got lots of tarragon and wondering how to do this bunch of herbs justice before it goes bad. Any suggestions for a dish that uses a lot of tarragon?
  19. Do the recipes actually work if you follow them, and how do they end up tasting?
  20. The Chicago Tribune has a piece today about the new cookbook by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid, Beyond the Great Wall: Recipes and Travels in the Other China. I'm a big fan of Hot, Sour, Salty, Sweet and was disappointed by Mangoes & Curry Leaves, so I'm wondering what this book will bring. It's out today: anyone got it yet?
  21. I have been trying to locate a copy of the Noma cookbook in English for a while now. Every time I think I have got a copy in my grasp, it slips away. I have recently been told that it was a limited run and that no more copies in English will be printed. Can someone help me locate a copy? Please....
  22. HOST'S NOTE: This topic was split from the more general discussion of Cook's Illustrated HERE to focus on cooking and analyzing specific recipes from the magazine. Please continue to use the original topic in the "Food Periodicals" forum to discuss more general aspects of the magazine, subscriptions, customer service, etc. Thanks! I've baked a lot from CI and the only recipe I didnt like was the coconut cake(march 2001). I make so many of their baked goods ( and savory recipes) over and over because they are really excellent. Here are some of my favorites. Chicken fajita's ( fabulous, but I always add a bit of tequila to the marinade) Spinach lasagna(bechamel based, will be making this again next week for a dinner party) Tall and fluffy buttermilk biscuits( there is a pic of these in the biscuit thread) Pineapple upside down cake( a friend told me this was the BEST pineapple upside down cake ever, better than his mom's) German chocolate cake( pic on my blog) Chicken, green bean mushroom stir fry along with the baked brown rice Pan sauteed chicken breasts w/ sage vermouth sauce spinach salad( pic on blog) chocolate pots de creme( we made and served this at a former job) multigrain pancakes multigrain bread( fabulous, makes 2 loaves) scones( blueberry and maple oatmeal pecan) Strawberry cream cake( YOU MUST MAKE THIS!!) Big super nutty peanut butter cookies( just made these a few days ago, pic on my foodblog) Lemon layer cake Grilled pizza( omg, so good) calzones( fabulous) Baby back ribs eta: NY style crumb cake I love their bulletin board too( Hi Darcie!!). I learn a lot from the folks over there. The new issue is out and I want to try the Hummus, and the Berry fool along with the oatmeal snack cake( I think I'll make this today) Ok, whose next? What have you tried and loved? Hated?
  23. [Moderator note: The original Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" topic became too large for our servers to handle efficiently, so we've divided it up; the preceding part of this discussion is here: Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 5)] As all readers of the massive Charcuterie topic topic know, it has become unwieldy. Thus we offer this new index, to aid readers in finding all of the information our members have contributed over the years. We ask that, as discussion continues in this new topic/section, posters keep their posts focused on recipes and techniques from the book itself, and small modifications to those recipes. For general charcuterie discussions that are not focused on recipes from this book, you will find many other topics devoted to them. Thank you for participating! We look forward to more great contributions in this topic!
  24. Hey gang, I do own a lot of cookbooks these days (as I'm sure all of you do), some classics, some oddities, some strange used-bookstore finds (the little book of big sandwiches is actually a goldmine)... but I'm always trying to notch my food up to the next level. To make my food less 'busy', simpler (does not mean quicker!), but well better at the end of the day. My tastes lie more french/italian than anything else, though I have cooked an awful lot of indian and thai when the cravings hit me. I'm more looking at technique, doing simple things well, but also 'fussy' things, plating, building a cohesive meal rather than just one thing. Maybe something simpler than The French Laundry. Some things I do own: les halles, River Cottage Meat, mastering art of french cooking I and II, the new book of middle eastern food, all about braising, molto mario, charcuterie, new spanish table, the old world kitchen, several Jamie Olivers (I know, I know, but there is a few gems to be found in there), Hazen, a CIA manual (I use mostly for diagrams of cutting up chickens, trussing things, etc). I'm not afraid of fussy, getting my hands dirty, or finding good ingredients. I'm ok with pickling, jamming, curing (bacon, hams, etc have had some success in my house), smoking (mostly fish) and I'm getting better at deboning/hacking up larger cuts of things (most of the time). I've been eyeballing reviews of things by ducasse (but which one?), waters (again, which one?), keller (maybe Bouchon?). I'm sure there are others. Is there one (or several) decent cookbooks out there for the determined amateur wanting to bring the food up to the next level, rather than "quick easy short-cut 20 minutes only" blah cookbooks. I've had several breakthroughs this year and "ah-ha!" moments which have only made me rethink what I'm cooking and how I'm doing it. Food blogs and local restaurants have made me think more about how I present it, and things that work together, rather than just 'following' a recipe. I like to know why.. how... more inspirational works rather than just a list of ingredients and directions. What was the cookbook that really solidified your cooking skills?
  25. Hello I have just ordered some activa online and plan on making a veal pasta. My plan is to cook the veal,grind,add activa, spread PAPER thin and cool, then shape my pasta. Does anyone have any experience working with this stuff that could chime in and give any advice? Thank you. I have read the past threads but was wondering if this specifically could be done. Will it be to firm?
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