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  1. The home charcuterie book sounds mouth-watering. Would you mind describing what your concept is, how it's working out, things that have surprised you, etc.? Is there a regional focus? Amusing anecdotes? Thanks for sharing.
  2. I've got a recipe from an American cookbook that calls for pancetta and I'm in France. Does anyone know what the charcuterie equivalent of this Italian meat would be here?
  3. There have been dozens of pastrami- and smoked-meat-related discussions on eGullet, and there are several active right now. Here's a recent sampling: Pastrami News http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST&f=4&t=20329 Defining Barbecue http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST&f=1&t=24408 Smoked Corned Beef Would you like some? http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST&f=3&t=17639 corned beef vs. pastrami stupid question but... http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST&f=1&t=17596 GastronautQuebec Report Day One http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...ST&f=26&t=24229 I have been re-reading and researching the posts on this issue, and I am not convinced that one pastrami/corned beef/Montreal smoked meat is better or worse than any other -- more specifically I am not convinced we have a set of criteria by which to make intelligent statements on the subject. We are not dealing with scientific fact, not yet at least. I propose that I spend the next 60 days, in my kitchen at Joe Fortes (the restaurant in Vancouver where I am executive chef), and produce eight types of corned/smoked/pastrami-style beef according to the recipes you all provide, and a group can then taste and judge them under truly scientific conditions. I have eaten smoked meats at Schwartz’s, Ben’s and The Main -- ranging from lean to extra-fatty -- and they all taste completely different to me (not to mention the quality of breads and mustards served with them). I have eaten examples of smoked meat/pastrami in Cleveland, Chicago, Seattle, San Francisco, and Los Angeles, which have been great but greasier and smokier then any of the smoked meats in Montreal. Escoffier set up the standardization of recipes for the culinary world in the late-19th/early-20th Century. We need to set up our own criteria through a scientific set of standards. I will donate a few hours a day if you will all supply the set of standards and measures. When the standards have been set we can then go out to all the great delis of North America and have the conceptual tools to identify the best pastrami/smoked-meat/corned-beef -- the one that is truly the greatest and the king.
  4. I've seen a few posts about this but no one has actually spelled out how to make it. You bake(?) bacon on both sides and press brown sugar, flour, and walnuts on one side and bake(?) until bubbly? How much brown sugar to use? How much flour? How much walnuts? What heat do you bake the bacon at? Do you even bake it or do you fry it? Please help! It sounds soooo good but I don't know where to start!
  5. I've got to say something about this place! It's been in the market for a year or two now across from the really good fish place near the middle door on the south side. They make everything there like Pates, sausages, confit, and an outstanding Rillette (pork and duck). They also have a good selection of cheeses. The owner and his wife (I believe) are very French and so is the food. Don't miss this place it is worth the battle to get there. It's fall and we need some more recomendations for great ingredients. Any suggestions? I frequent this place, Cioffi's and the Gourmet Warehouse.
  6. I adore sausages. The ancient alchemy of rescuing and transforming meat that would otherwise be unappetizing into delicious luvly sausages is surely one of humanity's greatest achievements. Luvly, luvly sau... Um. Do you like sausages? If so, what is your favourite? What is the best way to prepare them?
  7. I have a confession to make. I've never used my meat grinder. It just lurks in my cabinet, glaring at me from behind the box of coffee filters. Am I a bad person? And if I wanted, say, to make sausage, what kind is good to start with? Do you have a favorite recipe? Chad (snacking on last night's andouille cornbread, mmmm)
  8. Does anyone have a non-pork suggestion as a substitute for pancetta? I have a recipe which I want to make, but my wife doesn't eat pork. It's a pasta dish which involves browning the pancetta until nice and crispy, and then using the fat in the rest of the dish. So I need some kind of meat which will accomplish a similar task. I guess I won't be able to get the exact same flavor, but I'd like to try something at least. Any ideas? Thanks! ~WB
  9. howard88

    Duck Confit

    I just finished putting together my first duck confit using legs and thighs from D'artagnan. They are resting under duck fat in the refrigerator. I was thinking about doing the same with chicken thighs and legs. I have not seen this process done with chicken. Anyone out there with chicken confit experience?
  10. As a follow up to Meat Grinders I would like some recipes for sausages. The things I have easy access to are beef and pork and chicken. My inclination would be for beef and/or pork sausage. Cased or not. Thanks in advance!
  11. Does anyone have a recipe for Chinese bacon? My husband and I are crazy about it but the only way we know how to cook it is with sauteed green vegetables. There must be some more interesting things to do with this delicious ingredient.
  12. It is Saturday morning, 10am, I’ve got the top down on my rental convertible and am driving around trying to find a place to get some food to satisfy my hungover state. I don’t really get hungover but do suffer from what I call “fuzzy brain” or I’m just not Mr. Swift this morning due to many Guiness and Ciders the evening before. There are few food items better for a hangover than a greasy burger and fries. We never eat “American food” while on an international vacation, but I remember after a night of pitcher after pitcher of sangria in Madrid, my wife and I waking up to our systems CRAVING a greasy burger/fries. Thankfully the concierge in our hotel directed us to a spot nearby. I’ve got that same craving today. I’m at the intersection of Venice and Sepulveda debating if I should forgo the warming comforts of the sun on my face for soothing effects that the dark interior of my car would have on my eyes. I then spy Howard’s. The sign above the storefront proclaims "Howard's famous Bacon & Avocado Burgers" and “Famous” to boot?!!?, I’m there. Howard’s is a dive, probably has not changed much since 1971 when they opened. The same owners since ’71 are still there as well. I place my order off the menu board that has been updated simply by painting over old sections. One Bacon Avocado Burger and fries please. 5 minutes later I’m looking a wonderful looking burger, Big thick crisp bacon sliced poking out of some VERY VERY fresh produce and lots of avocado. It is a yummy burger for sure and I can feel the fuzzyness slowly slipping away. The overall verdict, I would not go out of my way for Howard’s, but if you are near the airport or on Sepulveda, Howard’s will sure satisfy. Howard’s Famous Bacon & Avocado Burgers 11127 Venice Blvd at Sepulveda West Los Angeles, CA 310.838.9111 Open 10am – 8pm Mon-Sat, closed Sunday
  13. In the Nathan's Famous thread http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=34814 wesza said: I always was impressed with the many varieties of Sausages available that were actually made in Japan. They even had a excellent Hot Dog that was made from Tuna that was comparable to a Hebrew National Frank that was used as the model at the Japanese owned Factory located in Taiwan. It was amazing how similar in taste and texture they tasted to compared to the real thing. Wonder if they are still available. Irwin
  14. It's probably the combination of the frigid weather, the bag of new-crop lentilles de Puy in my cupboard and the bottle of Madiran (Château d'Aydie '95, which should be hitting its stride about now) in my drink-soon queue, but I've suddenly developed a major hankering for one of my favourite winter combo, duck confit with warm lentil salad. The problem is the duck. Back in the good old days, Boucherie de Paris, the little butcher's shop on Gatineau across from the former HEC building, sold the best confit de carnard I've ever tasted anywhere. After a quarter hour in a hot oven, it would emerge all golden and crispy-skinned and falling-off-the-bone tender. The meat had a texture somewhere between unctuous and silky and a mild yet deep, dark flavour with salt and fat in perfect balance. Had he done nothing else, then-butcher André Philippot would have earned my eternal gratitude for this triumph of gastronomy. (In fact, he did much more. I first learned of the shop when Bee McGuire proclaimed it the winner of the Gazoo's toulouseathon, its search for the Montreal's best toulouse sausage. André's terrines were also works of art.) Alas, the Philippots sold their shop a decade or so ago and retired who knows where. And while the new owner does some things as good or better, confit isn't one of them. (Neither are the toulouses; I suspect the main problem is his decision to cut back on salt and fat in deference to les goûts modernes, as he once put it.) It's not that his confit is bad, it's that it's not great. So, finally getting around to my question, who in your opinion now makes the best duck confit in the city? Although I'm mainly interested in retail outlets, please feel free to mention any restos that do a bang-up job. Thanks!
  15. I'd like to make duck confit for the first time, any tips are welcome!
  16. Lost among the mediocrity of the Cobble & Boerum Hills / Carroll Gardens "food revolution" is a true standout that seems to be in a little trouble. Esposito's Pork Store on Court and Union has been in the neighborhood for years making Sopressata and fresh Italian sausages, as well as outstanding rice balls, mozzarella, sandwiches, etc. Recently a place called Latticini Barese in Red Hook closed after 75 years in business. It would be a shame to lose another neighborhood gem; especially when interest in eating in the area seems to be at a high. I therefore encourage those who live in the neighborhood to pop in and check it out. Buy some sausages for your next "Sopranos" party (they close early on Sundays), buy a couple of rice balls to snack on, or maybe some dried sausage and mozz for an antipasti plate. Service is a little "old Brooklyn" but that should be seen as a positive.
  17. Moderator Note: topics merged. If there weren't a lotta lotta other reasons to love you, Mario, and there are, and i'm not even counting the shorts though they are fetching, its the fact that you put LARDO on your pizza, and made LARDO SEXY! And made people all over the country suddently saying the world lardo with great affection, and made the word lardo a fashion statement, a destination word, a word of great desire. this in a country that has been fat-o-ohobic for years! i thought the fashionistas would pass out when they first uttered the word, but there they were, munching on your yum lardo pizza at OTTO, muttering the word lardo, lardo, lardo............ Grazie mille! is there any other food that you are passionate about at this moment that you'd care to share? marlena
  18. Moderator Note: These posts about Salumi were submitted almost at the same time, and I thought Mario would enjoy seeing all of them. Three weeks ago I had the rare opportunity to enjoy a Friday evening dinner at Salumi. It was wonderful! Click here for the full details. This week I also joined Armandino's "adopt a proscuitto" program. I can't wait to get that thing home next fall. Now that he's USDA certified, will you be carrying any of his products in your restaurants?
  19. JennyUptown


    How quickly does sausage go bad when refrigerated (not frozen)? I bought some Italian sausage at the grocery store on Friday. I used half of it that night and put the rest in tupperware. The refrigerator is on one of the coldest settings because it has been hot here in DC. Question: barring any bad smells, is it OK to use?
  20. A group of us had dinner at Salumi last Friday night. There were three other eGulleteers, all more active posters than me, and I expect they'll pipe in with details. Also, I took photos of most of the courses and some of the action and at some point I'll add a few to this thread if there's interest. For now, I'll just list some of my random thoughts from the evening. Armandino mentioned that as of last Thursday, Salumi is USDA-certified to ship his cured meats around the country. I told him that's too bad; it's already tough enough to find them in Seattle. Armandino's daughter (Gina?) worked with him on the meal. He proudly announced that she's now half-owner in Salumi. My personal favorite course of the many we had was a very simple grilled sea bass, served cold. This was perhaps the best fish dish I've ever eaten. Perfectly fresh, perfectly cooked; just excellent. Other standouts: the cured meats (of course), the unscotti (recipe to be published in Sept. Bon Appetite), the rabbit. I'll download a photo of the menu later, from home.
  21. I could use some expert/experienced help in making these special treats. Any ideas will be appreciated.
  22. My fiancé doesn't eat pork (or cow or any other mammal ) so I'm wanting to make a sausage she can eat with her French toast in the morning. How can I turn a pack of ground turkey from the store and a few yet unnamed spices in to great patties? I like sweet sausages so a little maple syrup in the mix would be ok. Also, are the any other tips for altering ground pork or beef recipes into turkey ones? Meatloaf is next. edit: GAH! You can't fix misspellings in titles can you?
  23. Since I had a supply of duck and goose fat in the fridge, I confit'd up some lamb shanks the other day - now I'm unsure how to use them. I was thinking, possibly, serve it over crispy gnocchi, maybe with some caramalised butternut squash (a Tra Vigne dish I had, using Duck confit), but I'm not sure about what to use for a sauce. Plenty of chicken and veal glace in the freezer. Any suggestions?
  24. I used to get great bacon mail order from Thielen's in Minnesota, but they don't ship out of state any more. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  25. Peel me a grape, Mamster. +++ Be sure to check The Daily Gullet home page daily for new articles (most every weekday), hot topics, site announcements, and more.
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