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  1. [Moderator note: The original Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" topic became too large for our servers to handle efficiently, so we've divided it up; the preceding part of this discussion is here: Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 2)] Oh, Abra. Oh, Abra. Can we call this the Pork Altar? This is so effing unbelievable. So, who cares if it only took you three monts to get your mise in place. Which brings me how to construct my curing chamber (Chris, why in the hell did you choose black and not white for your container) and finding just the right place in the hosue. I'm such a lightweight and such a worrywort. It's only meat!
  2. Don't know if anyone has posted on this topic yet... I don't think so. I would be very interested to hear reactions to Julia Moskin's excellent article in today's dining section of the New York Times, "Dry-Cured Sausages: Kissed by Air, Never by Fire". There's an especially poignant quote from the owner of Il Buco, when health inspectors recently destroyed all the cured meats at the restaurant because the temperature in the curing room was six degrees above regulation, not because they found the meat contaminated: "'These are pigs that were raised for us... We knew their names. We were trying to do something sustainable and traditional, and this is what happens.'" Personally, I am puzzled by the mentality that a supermarket ham injected with embalming fluid is somehow healthier than an air-cured prosciutto. I am also enraged and frustrated at how traditional, sustainable methods of food preparation in the United States seem to be constantly stymied and penalized in favor of anonymous mass production. In a year of travelling up and down the length of Italy eating traditional cured meats wherever I could, I got food-poisoning exactly once: from a plastic-wrapped carton of industrial pancetta I bought at a supermarket.
  3. Over in the Charcuterie thread, many of us have been makin' bacon. I've been sticking mainly with the standards -- bacon and eggs; frissee salad with lardons -- and I'm wantin' to branch out. What's your favorite recipe or dish for showcasing really good bacon?
  4. Hi there I am doing some research into a new menu and have been unable to find any information on Copa Salami, well other than its Itailian. Can any one fill me on with more information, on taste, orgins, uses?
  5. At the risk of starting another 'cassoulete' type debate I would still like to find one or more "definitive" recipies for Toulouse sausage. The name 'Toulouse' seems to be somewhat generic for most of the pork based fresh sausage produced here in the South West of France. As I eat the sausage produced by various butchers in the towns around our area I can detect differences, sometimes subtle, somethimes not. Please let me have your thoughts. Looking in some of the other forums I note that there seem to be a lot of sausage makers out there.
  6. Kent Wang

    Jowl bacon

    I just picked up some jowl bacon from the farmers market. To me, the meat tastes a bit sweeter, there's a lot more fat and the rendered fat is more gelatinous (higher collagen content?). What are you thoughts on jowl bacon? Are my impressions accurate? Do you prefer it to belly bacon?
  7. Over in the miraculous, slightly obsessive, and wonderful Charcuterie topic, many eGulleteers have been learning from Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn's Charcuterie. As a result, we've got freezers full of bacon, andouille, hocks, pancetta, and who knows what else. This topic is for cooking with those salted, smoked, and cured products. For example, I'm going to start with a very basic recipe, just a simple few steps that lead to a fantastic plate: the classic bistro frissee salad with lardons. This salad -- frissee lightly dressed with a vinaigrette, tossed with lardons (thickly diced and well-cooked pieces of bacon), and topped with a fried egg -- is a fantastic showcase for the high-quality bacon you'll be producing if you start curing and smoking your own. Being able to add lardons that are both crispy and meaty into your salad is a remarkable joy. What else are people doing with their cured products?
  8. Over in the Charcuterie topic, we've been experiencing odors, textures, and colors that range from sublime to funky to waaaay off. Being thoughtful, Abra raised the question about food safety: Smart points -- but as I thought about it, I realized that I really didn't have any solid information beyond the material covered in Ruhlman and Polcyn's book (which some have seen as excessive) concerning food safety with cured and smoked meats. What are the basics? What are the issues we should be considering? Beyond keeping things ultra clean during prep, what are the things we can do in our home curing chambers and garage refrigerators? And if we have something in that funky range -- how green is green? when does chalky mold become fuzzy mold? -- and are distraught at the thought of tossing our product into the trash, where can we turn to make the right decisions?
  9. just moved up here to the big city from the big easy, was wondering if any of you city slickers could point me in the direction of getting some new orleans style andouille sausage so i can make some real food for my roomies ( all NO expats ). and if there is any source of camellia brand red kidney beans for purchase that would be great info as well cest levee
  10. Frisee aux lardons is my latest paramour. A local restaurant serves this salad with hot lardons (double smoked bacon), local roasted hazelnuts, apple and endive. What makes this classic salad classic? Is it just the inclusion of the frisee and the lardons or does it indeed have an original recipe that inspires riffs on the classic? What say you?
  11. Lardo di Colannata(o), to me....6-12 month Cured pork fat back w/ herbs. Apparently a profound, ethereal culinary experience. After reading Bill Bufords book "Heat" ( a great book about many things...Mario Batali included) I am facinated to know more about this product. Experiences, recipes and musings wanted. I MUST learn how to make this incredible, venticle stiffining fat of the Gods. I'm also in search of the "perfect" pig...if there is one, to provide his backside, so I might persue my curing delights. (i.e. a mail order heritage or heirloom pig site who can provide me the fat back needed in the USA)
  12. Cora, who lost big on taste to challenger Neal Fraser in the taste category, created an…unusual dish during Pork Battle last night. The dish also included sautéed blueberries, a sweet little pork cutlet, and a streusel topping composed of flour and lard, among other things. Only ICA Judge Harry Smith loved the bacon ice cream; even Steingarten demurred, and visibly calmed down when Burke soothed him with crispy pork skin, a more conventional fat-delivery system. The third Judge, 80s celebrity author turned wine writer Jay McInerney, said the bacon ice cream freaked him out. Well, scaffolding masquerading as shoulder pads freaked me out, Jay. We all have our fears. Am I the only one who saw it? Because I would have thought the words, “bacon + ice cream,” would spark lardophiles and dreamyfrozendessertophiles into a spirited debate. edited because I messed up on the challenger's name.
  13. Chad

    Re-Smoking Bacon

    Here's an interesting little science experiment. I have a freezer full of pig. Really. At one of my son's baseball games this summer one of the moms leaned over and said, "Hey, Chad, you wanna buy a pig?" I said "Sure!" After all, how often do you get asked that question? As it turns out, her boys raise pigs for the 4H competition at the state fair every year. They sell the pigs and have them processed. So I bought a pig. Actually half a pig -- but it did take a blue ribbon. Anyway, I got a great pork shoulder, some gigantic, Flintstone sized pork chops, lots o' ribs, about 20 pounds of various sausages and lots and lots of bacon. Yay! Everything else has been chock full of porcine goodness, but the bacon is just plain boring. I don't think they cured it long enough or smoked it long enough. It tastes like pork, but not like bacon. Major bummer. However, on the Cooking from Charcuterie thread someone mentioned that Ruhlman & Polcyn recommend hot smoking bacon and that you can hot smoke it after it has been cold smoked. Ding! The little light goes on. Maybe I could resmoke my bacon. Worth a try, anyway. So I had a free afternoon, some applewood chips and a willingness to experiment. I figure that even if everything goes wrong, I have a rack of grilled bacon and that can't be bad. At the moment I have a pound of bacon and about half a pound of cured jowl on a roasting rack in my Weber. There's a big roasting pan of water underneath to act as a heat brake and a handful of hot coals and soaked applewood chips smoking away. I think I'm going to let it go until the bacon is actually cooked. I kept the temperature about 200 degrees for the first hour, now I've opened the vents and plan on letting it go for another 45 minutes to an hour. Anyone ever tried this? Oh, the bacon is going on what I hope to be my finest sandwich creation -- grilled pseudo-jerk chicken, applewood smoked bacon, homemade aioli, arugula and cherry tomatoes on freshly baked french rolls. Should be interesting. I'll keep you posted. Chad
  14. This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. A saucisson sec tasting Charcuterie, Best Programs? Boudin Noir
  15. I love gumbo. Oh how I love gumbo. My favorite part of gumbo is the andouille. It fills me with such glee If the andouille wasn't so darn expensive I'd eat it every week. In the interest of budget, I've tried swapping kielbasa and that was sorely dissappointing. I was getting andouille from Trader Joes for a reasonable price (can't recall the brand, just that you had to peel it), but they stopped carrying it and now all they have is crappelgate. Whole paycheck has a couple of brands, but at $9+/lb. that's way too rich for my blood. Ideally, I'd like to find andouille for 4 bucks/lb. Not great andouille but okay quality. I know this is a pipe dream, but I thought I'd throw it out there just to see if anyone had a cheap source. Most likely, I'll end up making it myself.
  16. It's official. I do NOT like kielbasa as a sub for andouille in gumbo. NOT at all. The whole coriander hot dog note drives me bonkers. At around $2.50 a lb. it's a shame I can't work with it. I can get okay andouille, but it costs me around $8/lb. It's my favorite part of gumbo but that's a little too rich for my blood. As I can get pork butt for practically nothing, I've been considering making my own. Anyone make their own andouille? What do you think about this andouille recipe? Any tips/tricks you'd recommend?
  17. I'm thinking of purchasing a smoker. I have been browsing through catalogues online and the Bradley looks interesting. I can't find any reviews on the product though, does anyone have any feedback on this smoker? Can I use woods of my own selection in it or can I only use the briquettes made by the company? Look forward to hearing your recommendations.
  18. Hi, I've done a search through several useful threads about sausage making but I haven't been able to find much information about sausage stuffers. I'd like to purchase one but I'm really not sure what to look for. What makes a good one? What kinds of features/attributes should it have? Is there a particular material or construction method which makes for a superior machine? I'm sure there are dozens of other nuances of which I'm not even remotely aware -- but I'd like to be. Can any of you well-seasoned sausage makers walk me through this? I'd appreciate the benefit of any experience you can share. Thanks, =R=
  19. Does anyone have a recipe for piragi? My "step-grandfather" is Latvian and gets them every Christmas from a Latvian bakery in Toronto. I have never made them, but have had a craving and do not know of any Latvian bakeries in my neck of the woods. Besides, I'm always looking for a new "cooking project" (I can picture my partner rolling his eyes). A quick internet search has turned up a few recipes, which sound straightforward enough, but I know that if there is a wealth of information to be found about any food-topic, I should look here first.
  20. Last Saturday, a group of intrepid friends gathered at our place to taste the following varieties of bacon: 1. Boczek Domowy (Polish Home-style Bacon); Andy's Deli, Chicago IL 2. Boczek Pieczony(Polish Smoked & Cooked Style); Andy's Deli, Chicago IL 3. Tocino Original Mexicano de Corazón; FUD 4. Kolozvári (Hungarian Smoked Bacon); Bende & Son Salami Co. Inc. Vernon Hills, Il 5. Boczek Wedzony Mysliski (Double Smoked Hunter Style Bacon)" Bobak Sausage Company Chicago, Il 6. Classic Dry Rubbed Organic Bacon; Wellshire Farms Swedesboro, NJ 7. Kirkland Signature Naturally Hickory Smoked Bacon; Costco Wholesale Corp. 8. Tyson Thick Cut; Tyson Foods, Springdale, Ar 9. Farmland Thick Sliced Bacon; Farmland Foods Inc. 10. Niman Ranch Dry Cured Center Cut Bacon; Niman Ranch,Oakland, CA 11. Nueske's Applewood Smoked Thick Cut Bacon; Nueskes Hillcrest Farms,Wittenberg, WI 12. Scott Petersen Premium Hardwood Smoked Bacon; Scott Petersen & Company 13. Smart "Bacon" Meatless Low Fat Strips; Lightlife FoodsTurners Falls, MA 14. Oscar Mayer Hearty Thick Bacon You’ll note that the selection is heavy on supermarket bacon. Were I to do this again, I would eliminate all the supermarket bacon except Farmland and maybe one other. Then I would concentrate on the interesting locally produced ethnic bacons and cool mail-order bacons. Samples 3,6,7,8,9,12, and 14 all were almost indistinguishable. You’ll also note that sample #13 is false bacon. It was awful and will not be mentioned again. Here is a picture of M. cooking one of many pounds of bacon. He was stuck in the kitchen cooking most of the party—if we did this again, we would do more pre-cooking. Here is the table of bacon: Here is our vegetarian friend: What is a vegetarian doing at a bacon tasting? Drinking mimosas! Also, we needed someone there to call 911 in case of bacon overdose. We presented the samples with numerical labels and gave out a tasting sheet to allow people to score each sample on saltiness, meatiness, smokiness, fattiness, mouthfeel, and overall ranking. At the end we asked each person to rank their three favorites. And the winners are: Nueske’s Our favorite even before the tasting garnered the most favorite votes and comments such as "YUM-O". It's been reported to be too smoky for small children, but all our adults liked it. Home-made style Polish bacon from Andy’s Deli: This local bacon was succulent and meaty, but less smoky than the Nueske's. If you live in Chicago, it's worth seeking out. Note that the label on the deli wrapper is not the same as the label on the meat in the deli case; it's actually the Boczek Domowy. Regardless of the label, you will know it by its ominous black color. Hungarian bacon: This salty bacon had its proponents. It was the only bacon cured with garlic and would be a wonderful ingredient in bean or egg dishes. On its own it was too strong for some! Thanks to all our hearty tasters for helping with this event! And a bit hurrah for M, who cooked all that bacon!
  21. Over a week ago I cooked up some bacon and saved the fat to make ginger cookies with bacon. I haven't made the cookies yet, and I find myself wondering how long the bacon fat will stay fresh enough to use. Anyone have an idea?
  22. What do you think of North American charcuterie producers such as P.G. Molinari & Sons (San Francisco), Zerto, Citterio, Schaller & Weber (New York), Groezinger, Espanola. These are the major brands available in the finer delis Austin, TX. Some of the aforementioned brands are US-based, while some are European but sell their products in the US. For those that have had quality charcuterie in Italy, Germany or Spain how do these brands compare? Of these brands, which of their products do you like? Just off the top of my head, my favorites are the Molinari Toscano-style dry salame, Groezinger Moldavska sausage and Schaller & Weber summer sausage.
  23. Hi guys an gals, Can anyone give me a few helpful hints on smoking meat and fish at home. Thanks
  24. I would like to try making lamb sausage and looking through quite a few recipes they all seem to go for lean lamb and about 20% pork back fat. I would like to know the reason of pork fat, why not lamb fat. I know you need the fat to help with the primary bind and texture but why not use all lamb. wallie
  25. My friend's father, a lovely Southern Italian gentleman has agreed to share his family tradition with me, as sausage making is not really part of my culture. I have fallen in love with all things charcuterie since having dry cured sausage in Auvergne, hanging illegally from the village-butcher's garage, served by his toothless wife, a cigarette butt dangling from her lips. Pork, salt, and whatever natural flora lingered in the air at this country home were the sole ingredients. And the result was near-miraculous. Well, that was a few years ago. We'll see if we can recapture some of that magic with good old Canadian pork, peppered with some Italian sensibility. But I have some concerns. The product , no doubt, of having access to too much information and not enough experience (My current bedtime book: Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing by Michael Ruhlman, Brian Polcyn, and Thomas Keller). Chico (our king sausagemaker) recommended we get three shoulders and one hip - too much meat for us. Upon the butcher's recommendation, we got two shoulders and 6 lbs of back eye. Then another relative wanted to pitch in, so we added a additional shoulder and a hip. Total, 3 shoulders, one ham and 6 lbs of back eye. Chico does not concern himself with Insta-Cure or the use of time-released nitrites to ward off botulism. He doesn't add milk powder or dextrose to feed the Bactoferm, bacteria which will ferment the meat and lower the PH through lactic acid which will make the sausage an inhospitable environment for the bad stuff. He doesn't freeze the meat for 6-20 days to kill off any trichinosis. Chico grinds the meat, adds the salt, makes the sausage. Period. And nobody ever died. (that he knows of) Any thoughts on any stage of this? If you have experience in this very basic kind of sausage making, please share. I should also add that we have a cantina, just above the freezing point. It was about 1'C this morning. I'm also curious to know if I should keep the fat under the skin of the leg/ham to incorporate into the mix. It's not as good as back fat or jowl or kidney fat I suppose... Many thanks!
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