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  1. Don't know if anyone has posted on this topic yet... I don't think so. I would be very interested to hear reactions to Julia Moskin's excellent article in today's dining section of the New York Times, "Dry-Cured Sausages: Kissed by Air, Never by Fire". There's an especially poignant quote from the owner of Il Buco, when health inspectors recently destroyed all the cured meats at the restaurant because the temperature in the curing room was six degrees above regulation, not because they found the meat contaminated: "'These are pigs that were raised for us... We knew their names. We were trying to do something sustainable and traditional, and this is what happens.'" Personally, I am puzzled by the mentality that a supermarket ham injected with embalming fluid is somehow healthier than an air-cured prosciutto. I am also enraged and frustrated at how traditional, sustainable methods of food preparation in the United States seem to be constantly stymied and penalized in favor of anonymous mass production. In a year of travelling up and down the length of Italy eating traditional cured meats wherever I could, I got food-poisoning exactly once: from a plastic-wrapped carton of industrial pancetta I bought at a supermarket.
  2. Oyama is offering a one-day charcuterie course on Saturday, October 21st; I think the price is $350. This would be a great gift for someone.
  3. Hi, Paula. As you know, I'm a huge fan of duck confit, so I'm delighted to find TCOSWF contains recipes for confit calf's tongue, pork and toulouse sausages besides the expected duck, goose and gizzards. But I'm also curious about other types of confit you may be familiar with. Confit lamb shank has almost become a cliché in Quebec restaurants, but I don't recall ever seeing confit rabbit or hare on offer here or elsewhere. Ditto beef, venison, boar and veal, not to mention exotic game meats (squirrel, antelope, camel, alligator, etc.). Is fish (e.g. tuna) ever confited? A local butcher shop occasionally offers confit sweetbreads; I've not bought them because the shop's duck confit is second-rate and because I'm uncertain how to use them (in a salad? as an appetizer?) or even prepare them (whole? sliced? cold? heated in the oven? steamed? fried?). Does other offal lend itself to the confit technique? And are these preparations at all traditional or is it a case of finding new uses for a traditional technique? Lastly, is confit an exclusively southwest French thing or is something like it found in other cuisines?
  4. Just got done making a batch of duck confit following Culinary Bear's great thread , and I put the picked meat up in jars as he did. Now I'm wondering if it's worth my time to make a stock out of the remaining bones and scraps. Any thoughts?
  5. vox

    lemon confit

    hi all... forgive me if this has been done before...i'm looking for different ways of making lemon confit (not preserved lemons)...for both sweet and savoury applications. cheers! i tried slow roasting lemons in olive oil, but they were still quite bitter...any tips?
  6. I am on a quest for finding the best Italian Sausages in town, ones that are spicy (piccante) and ones that are not. Currently I get them at Bianca Marias on HAstings St. and also at the butcher on Granville Isl. (can't remeber the name but by the toffee/fudge place). Also for a great butcher, I seem to be all over the place currently and have just found out that Columbus meats debone chickens and turkeys for you.. do all butchers do that? Need some 'meaty' advise.
  7. The Asian grocery that I've been frequenting lately has a variety of Chinese sausages. I've never cooked with them before, but I'd like to. Most are vacuum packed and produced in either the US or Canada. I was wondering if anyone had any brands they liked and any favorite uses. Thanks.
  8. Lost among the mediocrity of the Cobble & Boerum Hills / Carroll Gardens "food revolution" is a true standout that seems to be in a little trouble. Esposito's Pork Store on Court and Union has been in the neighborhood for years making Sopressata and fresh Italian sausages, as well as outstanding rice balls, mozzarella, sandwiches, etc. Recently a place called Latticini Barese in Red Hook closed after 75 years in business. It would be a shame to lose another neighborhood gem; especially when interest in eating in the area seems to be at a high. I therefore encourage those who live in the neighborhood to pop in and check it out. Buy some sausages for your next "Sopranos" party (they close early on Sundays), buy a couple of rice balls to snack on, or maybe some dried sausage and mozz for an antipasti plate. Service is a little "old Brooklyn" but that should be seen as a positive.
  9. I purchased the food grinder that attaches to my KitchenAid. I am looking forward to making some sausages. Although my knowledge is limited, I have some books with recipes. I do know that I need casings Any sources of casings in the Twin Cities? I believe they could be both natural and synthetic. At this point, either option would be good to start with. Thanks in advance for any replies. Alex
  10. New menu items at the Broadway Noahs Bagels include bagel dough baked around various Anhuls sausages including pork andouille. Considering their theme marketing of the products should one be offended at the insensitivity, could it possibly be extreme ignorance?
  11. The thread on puff pastry, along with Jackal10's pork pie in the pie crust thread, has brought out a craving for sausage rolls. I searched the web for recipes, and settled on this one (which is actually a Delia Smith recipe but her site is down right now, so I can't link to her page directly). I have them in the oven as I type, but now am curious. I've never worked with puff pastry before, and I think I may have made some grave errors, so allow me to ask a few questions. Firstly, it's very hot here and as I was forming the rolls, I noticed that my puff pastry (store-bought, Bellamy brand from New Zealand, I think) became very very soft in just a short time. I put the pastry in the freezer for about 5 minutes (with the sausage meat already on it, but not yet rolled) to make it easier to work with, but even then, by the time the rolls got into the oven (a mere 5 minutes, I would guess), it was quite soft, again. Should I have refrigerated the rolls before baking? Or does the temperature of the pastry prior to baking make a difference in the final product? I forgot to snip the rolls before putting them in the oven. Is that step really necessary? I guess I'll find out shortly, but as a general rule, does one have to vent puff pastry? And if one does, should the slits be deep (down to the meat) or just superficial? During my search I found that some recipes called for raw sausage meat, but some required cooked meat. Which is preferable? I used a combination of ground pork and beef, both about 80% lean, and put it in raw. I noticed after 10 minutes of baking that there was a pool of grease around each roll, but I don't know if that's from the meat or the puff pastry. Lastly, if I want to freeze the rolls, is it better to bake and then freeze, or should I freeze and then bake? If the latter, do I defrost and bake or bake from frozen? Any suggestions for my next attempt?
  12. Abra

    Tuna Confit

    I've lucked into a bunch of fresh-caught albacore (thanks, DRColby!), and I want to make it last. I've been thinking of tuna confit, but all the recipes I've found say to use it, even though it's in the fridge, within 3-10 days of preparation. Here's one recipe, edited to meet guidelines. Incanto's Tuna Confit 2 pounds albacore or yellowfin (ahi) tuna, in one piece 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper 1 1/2 teaspoons ground fennel seed 1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander seed 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon red chile flakes 2 sprigs each fresh thyme, parsley and basil 2 bay leaves 2 cloves garlic, crushed and peeled Zest of 1/2 lemon, removed with a vegetable peeler Extra virgin olive oil to cover, approximately 11/2 quarts Basically you marinate the tuna in the herbs and spices, then cover it with oil and oven-poach for half an hour. I'm wondering how to make it last for a couple of months. If I leave out the garlic (and possibly the fresh herbs) and put it in the fridge completely covered by the oil, do I need to worry about spoilage? Should I freeze it in the oil? Should I give up on this idea?
  13. I made confit for the first time 3 weeks ago, put it in a cast iron crock and put it in the fridge. I thought it was completely sealed in fat but turns out the duck was sitting in about 1 1/2 inches of "jelly" and had about 2 inches of fat on top of it. I'm not sure what to do with it now. Is it still safe to eat? I've never really had straight duck confit before, so I'm not sure what it's supposed to taste and smell like, so my nose and taste buds won't help. Right now it smells like poultry but the stuff that was completely submerged in the jelly smells a bit "gamey". I've never really had duck before either, doesn't it smell a little stronger? Help!!
  14. Forgive my ignorance, but wondered if anyone could help... Is it possible to make cured (i.e. dried/ semi-dried) chorizo/ salami in hot and humid environments? I will be living somewhere with typical 90% humidity and temperatures >30C, and no airconditioning/ cool rooms. Is it possible to leave meats to hang in these conditions?
  15. Occasionally we'll decide on the spur of the moment to have cured meats, cheese, and bread for dinner. So if we decide this on a Wednesday night or a Saturday afternoon, obviously we can't go to Salumi for meat. I've been to DeLaurenti's, but wasn't particularly thrilled with what I got (mortadella and cappacola, if I remember correctly). Also, DeLaurenti sells meats from Salumi at a huge markup (something like $30 per pound for lamb prosciutto) which makes me wonder how much they're marking up everything else in the store. What are some other alternatives?
  16. jogoode


    I assume pancetta, or anything with a high fat content, doesn't take well to freezing. Am I wrong? I can't eat any more of this pancetta! (Well, I can but I shouldn't.)
  17. I am currently enrolled in the Institute of Culinary Education Culinary Management program in New York City. I am looking into Culinary Arts programs following graduation in September in and around New York, but would also like to consider programs in France (Paris, Lyon, Southwest... just about anywhere). One of my main interests is in charcuterie and I was hoping someone could tell me about some of the better charcuterie programs in France. I am particularly interested in learning to prepare and age hams and dried sausages. Can anyone point me to some information on culinary programs in France that are particularly strong in charcuterie? I am interested in full-time programs as well as shorter-term intensive programs.
  18. I have about 1/3 lb. sitting in my fridge. What should I do with it?
  19. As noted in the Toronto Star Digest, here on eG. Toronto (or Hogtown as we are affectionately known) speak out on the concept of having a Toronto "signature" dish. So, fellow Torontonians, I want your opinion. Do we need a special dish to call our own? Is this the right dish? Discuss!
  20. I've seen a few posts about this but no one has actually spelled out how to make it. You bake(?) bacon on both sides and press brown sugar, flour, and walnuts on one side and bake(?) until bubbly? How much brown sugar to use? How much flour? How much walnuts? What heat do you bake the bacon at? Do you even bake it or do you fry it? Please help! It sounds soooo good but I don't know where to start!
  21. Oh, how I love bacon, and one day on a whim I decided to try some chocolate at the same time as some hot bacon off the pan and was instantly transported. So I am wondering if it would be possible to incorporate the rich bacony taste into a chocolate cake. Use bacon grease in a chocolate butter cake? Or actual bits of bacon perhaps? I'm imagining a down-home rich Southern chocolate-bacon cake with a mocha frosting. I just don't know how to pull it off. I'm (obviously) an amateur baker- my husband thinks this idea is insane......
  22. The home charcuterie book sounds mouth-watering. Would you mind describing what your concept is, how it's working out, things that have surprised you, etc.? Is there a regional focus? Amusing anecdotes? Thanks for sharing.
  23. Marian Burros -- and I like her even though she's referred to me as a fringe journalist -- wrote something nice about the Applegate Farms nitrite-free cured meat products in the Times recently: http://nytimes.com/2001/12/19/dining/19WELL.html I finally got some of the salami at Fairway. It is, indeed, really good. It totally lacks the artificial taste found in nearly all packaged commercial cold-cuts, even from fancy brands. It could have stronger seasoning, but I can forgive that because the meat taste is so elegant. Definitely worth purchasing.
  24. Lemon Cheesecake with Lemon Confit Serves 10 as Dessert. This is a recipe that I adapted/combined from several different recipes. I use an Israeli white cheese, which is similiar in texture to a Greek-style yogurt. You can use cream cheese, if you prefer. For the lemon confit: 2 large juicy lemons (unwaxed if possible) 110 g (1/2c) granulated sugar For shortbread crust 60 g (1/2 stick) unsalted butter (room temperature) 1/4 c granulated sugar 1/2 c flour 2 c finely ground petit beurre or shortbread (i.e. Pepperidge Farm Chessmen) cookies For cheesecake 3 (500g/16oz) containers of Israeli 9% white cheese or Greek-style yogurt 250 g (8oz) container mascarpone cheese 3/4 c sugar 3 eggs 4 T lemon zest 1/2 c fresh squeezed lemon juice For topping 500 g (16oz) sour cream 1/4 c sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract For the lemon confit: Start by making the confit as this needs to be prepared ahead of time – the day before you want to serve it, if possible. Take one and a half of the lemons and slice them into thin rings about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick, discarding the end pieces and pips. Place these in a saucepan and cover with cold water, bring to a simmer for 3 minutes, then drain through a sieve and discard the water, Pour 12 fl oz (425 ml) water into the same pan, add the sugar, stir over a low heat until all the sugar dissolves, then add the lemon slices. Cook for 45 minutes, until the skin is tender. Remove the slices with a slotted spoon. Reduce the liquid to 5 fl oz (150ml). Squeeze the juice from the remaining half lemon, add to the syrup and pour over the lemon slices. Cover and let sit overnight at room temperature. Make crust: Cream the butter and sugar together for 3-4 minutes. Add flour and ground shortbread to the mixture and blend for 3-4 seconds until fully incorporated. Press the mixture evenly into the bottom of a 11-inch springform pan. Bake the crust at 180° for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown. Allow the crust to cool completely. Make cheesecake: Beat the white cheese until light and smooth. Add the mascarpone cheese and sugar and continue to beat on medium speed. Add the eggs one at a time. Add the lemon zest and juice. Pour mixture into the cooled crust. Wrap aluminium foil around the outside of the springform. Place the cheesecake pan into a roasting pan, and add enough water to the roasting pan to reach halfway up sides of the cheesecake pan. Place in a 180° oven for approximately one hour or until the cake is set and the top is golden brown. Make topping while cheesecake is baking: Let sour cream stand at room temperature 30 minutes. In a bowl whisk together sour cream, sugar and vanilla extract. Spread over entire top of cake, smoothing evenly. Bake cheesecake in middle of oven 10 minutes. Remove the cake from the roasting pan and place on a wire rack. Allow cake to cool slightly, and then place the cake in the refrigerator for 6 hours or overnight. Before serving, decorate top with lemon confit or plate and place lemon confit on top of sliced cheesecake. Keywords: Dessert, Intermediate, Cheese, Cake ( RG1514 )
  25. Guest

    Sweet & Hot Sausage Balls

    Sweet & Hot Sausage Balls Serves 25 as Appetizer. 1 lb ground hot sausage, casings removed 1/2 c dry bread crumbs 1/3 c minced onions 1/4 c milk 1 egg 1 T parsley 1 tsp salt 1/2 tsp pepper 1/2 tsp Worchestershire 12 oz bottle chili sauce 10 oz jar grape jelly Sweet and Hot Meatballs Mix first nine ingredients . Shape into 1 inch balls and brown in skillet. Drain fat. Heat chili and jelly until jelly melts. Add meat balls and stir until coated. Simmer 30 minutes. Yield 5 dozen.' Can be frozen and heated just before serving. Keywords: Hors d'oeuvre, Easy, Pork ( RG1329 )
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