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  1. There have been dozens of pastrami- and smoked-meat-related discussions on eGullet, and there are several active right now. Here's a recent sampling: Pastrami News http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST&f=4&t=20329 Defining Barbecue http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST&f=1&t=24408 Smoked Corned Beef Would you like some? http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST&f=3&t=17639 corned beef vs. pastrami stupid question but... http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST&f=1&t=17596 GastronautQuebec Report Day One http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...ST&f=26&t=24229 I have been re-reading and researching the posts on this issue, and I am not convinced that one pastrami/corned beef/Montreal smoked meat is better or worse than any other -- more specifically I am not convinced we have a set of criteria by which to make intelligent statements on the subject. We are not dealing with scientific fact, not yet at least. I propose that I spend the next 60 days, in my kitchen at Joe Fortes (the restaurant in Vancouver where I am executive chef), and produce eight types of corned/smoked/pastrami-style beef according to the recipes you all provide, and a group can then taste and judge them under truly scientific conditions. I have eaten smoked meats at Schwartz’s, Ben’s and The Main -- ranging from lean to extra-fatty -- and they all taste completely different to me (not to mention the quality of breads and mustards served with them). I have eaten examples of smoked meat/pastrami in Cleveland, Chicago, Seattle, San Francisco, and Los Angeles, which have been great but greasier and smokier then any of the smoked meats in Montreal. Escoffier set up the standardization of recipes for the culinary world in the late-19th/early-20th Century. We need to set up our own criteria through a scientific set of standards. I will donate a few hours a day if you will all supply the set of standards and measures. When the standards have been set we can then go out to all the great delis of North America and have the conceptual tools to identify the best pastrami/smoked-meat/corned-beef -- the one that is truly the greatest and the king.
  2. I've seen a few posts about this but no one has actually spelled out how to make it. You bake(?) bacon on both sides and press brown sugar, flour, and walnuts on one side and bake(?) until bubbly? How much brown sugar to use? How much flour? How much walnuts? What heat do you bake the bacon at? Do you even bake it or do you fry it? Please help! It sounds soooo good but I don't know where to start!
  3. Does anyone have a non-pork suggestion as a substitute for pancetta? I have a recipe which I want to make, but my wife doesn't eat pork. It's a pasta dish which involves browning the pancetta until nice and crispy, and then using the fat in the rest of the dish. So I need some kind of meat which will accomplish a similar task. I guess I won't be able to get the exact same flavor, but I'd like to try something at least. Any ideas? Thanks! ~WB
  4. I've got a recipe from an American cookbook that calls for pancetta and I'm in France. Does anyone know what the charcuterie equivalent of this Italian meat would be here?
  5. I've got to say something about this place! It's been in the market for a year or two now across from the really good fish place near the middle door on the south side. They make everything there like Pates, sausages, confit, and an outstanding Rillette (pork and duck). They also have a good selection of cheeses. The owner and his wife (I believe) are very French and so is the food. Don't miss this place it is worth the battle to get there. It's fall and we need some more recomendations for great ingredients. Any suggestions? I frequent this place, Cioffi's and the Gourmet Warehouse.
  6. I have been craving biscuits with sausage gravy. I can figure out the biscuits, but can't find anything about how to make the gravy. Anyone have any ideas or places they can point me? I thank you in advance. My arteries - not so much.
  7. Last night I tried out Arthur Swartz's recipe for pasta fazool. He's fairly insistent that one brown whole sausages by starting the sausages in a cold pan with a bit of oil & then browning them over medium-low to low heat. The fresh sausages I used were "arced" so it was quite difficult--but still enjoyable--to keep moving the sausages at weird angles in order to get the middle & ends of the sides that were arced. Any techniques to make browning whole "arced" sausages easier?
  8. I adore sausages. The ancient alchemy of rescuing and transforming meat that would otherwise be unappetizing into delicious luvly sausages is surely one of humanity's greatest achievements. Luvly, luvly sau... Um. Do you like sausages? If so, what is your favourite? What is the best way to prepare them?
  9. howard88

    Duck Confit

    I just finished putting together my first duck confit using legs and thighs from D'artagnan. They are resting under duck fat in the refrigerator. I was thinking about doing the same with chicken thighs and legs. I have not seen this process done with chicken. Anyone out there with chicken confit experience?
  10. Oh, how I love bacon, and one day on a whim I decided to try some chocolate at the same time as some hot bacon off the pan and was instantly transported. So I am wondering if it would be possible to incorporate the rich bacony taste into a chocolate cake. Use bacon grease in a chocolate butter cake? Or actual bits of bacon perhaps? I'm imagining a down-home rich Southern chocolate-bacon cake with a mocha frosting. I just don't know how to pull it off. I'm (obviously) an amateur baker- my husband thinks this idea is insane......
  11. I've always noticed this phenomenon when cooking bacon, but I always think of it at the wrong time to post. Now, the time has come. The fat streaks in bacon go through three distinct phases. Out of the fridge, they're white. After a few moments in the hot pan, they're translucent. By the time cooking is done, they're somewhere in between. The most interesting part of the process is the transition from translucent to crisp. The fat doesn't cook steadily. Suddenly there will be a hiss, and a section of it will turn nearly opaque. This was amazing to watch on some thin-sliced guanciale I was cooking the other day. Pop! You could watch the color change shoot along the strip of cured jowl. Stirring the bacon seems to accelerate the process. What in the world is going on here? It looks almost like a crystallization reaction. This is a very important question for physics, and I'd like to see our Einsteins on this thread soon. Thank you.
  12. I *love* bacon and in the last year and a half, I've come to truly cherish good bacon. Now I love my bacon to have a 50/50 ratio of fat to meat and I cook it so it has crispy edges but is still semi-flaccid. I'd like to know where everyone else goes when they want the best bacon pigs can proffer. I'm not talking about the national brands that are really thin like Oscar Meyer. But as far as national brands go (it suppose it could be regional), Fletcher's is pretty damn good and it used to be my favorite. Another plus is that's available at most grocery stores. Now I've tried the primo deli bacon from A & J's on Queen Anne and I found it to have too much meat and not enough fat, resulting in tough and chewy bacon, more like a slice of ham instead of bacon. I've also had the deli bacon from Central Market in Shoreline and although beautiful was as dissapointing as A & J's. At the moment my favorite bacon is from the Fred Meyer deli. I've bought some from the Lake City Way store and the Ballard store and their bacon (in my humble opinion) is the standard by which all should be compared to. But it seems odd that such good bacon should come from such a lowend store. I'm not saying that FM is a dump, I love the Ballad FM, but I would imagine that specialty shops and high-end grocercies should in principle have better bacon. Where does everyone else go?
  13. I saw a couple of interesting bacon products at the supermarket today. I don't usually stop at the bacon section, because I'm both a member of the Bacon of the Month Club (www.gratefulpalate.com) and a consumer of mostly high-end artisanal bacon. But I love bacon in all its forms and was especially pleased to see some of the clever new schemes that have been devised for bringing the maximum possible amount of bacon into every American home. The first item I noticed was Hormel's pre-cooked bacon strips. These look incredibly useful, and though I haven't tasted them I see no reason to think they wouldn't just taste like cooked Hormel bacon. The packages are a bit skimpy, but they do contain the equivalent of a cooked-and-drained pound of bacon for about $3.50. They appear to require no refrigeration. The other item I noticed, out of the corner of my eye as I was preparing to depart the bacon aisle, was microwave-ready bacon. Well, all bacon is microwave-ready by definition, but this bacon came neatly wrapped in absorbent material so you could go direct from package to microwave with no intermediate paper-towel-wrapping step. Very convenient indeed. Has anybody else witnessed interesting bacon technology lately that I have perhaps overlooked?
  14. I don't expect it will surprise anyone to hear that I had a great lunch at Salumi, in Pioneer Square, today. I met my dad (who works downtown) there. He had the porchetta sandwich, which consists of sausage-stuffed butterflied pork on a baguette that has been slathered with a garlic-herb oil. Peppers and onions are optional but recommended. It's a pretty incredible sandwich; the pork is juicy (the sausage and oil keep it plenty moist) and really tastes like pork. I had the same meat, but baked into a lasagna with peperoncini and cheese. Do I need to go into detail about how good this was? While in line we got free samples of hot soppressata and garlic salami. Outrageous bursts of flavor. Maybe next time I'll get the salami sandwich. If anyone here hasn't tried the place yet, let me know, and I will meet you there. They're open for lunch Tue-Fri from 11-3.
  15. I always thought a confit was a way of preserving meat in fat,mainly found in areas of Southern France. Last night,at Cantina Vinopolis in London, my rib eye was accompanied by "confit tomatoes".What arrived appeared to me to be a cooked tomato with a clove of garlic on top. I've also noticed on menus "confit of vegetables" ,"confit of onions", "confit of beetroot" etc. Is this just modern menu-speak (as in "pan-fried") or is there a special cooking technique being applied?
  16. Okay, I know this is normaly done in a broiler.... However I was wondering if anyone has any tips to getting the bacon crisp using a flattop grill. I have been just rolling them around for a minute or two but that seems like the least efficient way possible. Would it be possible to parcook the bacon just short of crisp or something along those lines? Any suggestions would be welcomed.
  17. Last night I made a pasta sauce with some Italian sausages bought in Prato (just out of Florence). These were plain sausage 100% pork meat, no obvious flavouring (eg. No fennel seed, garlic, wine etc) except for salt and pepper. No the thing is they taste fantastic, with a very rich pork flavour and great mouth feel. Why is this? Now it could be the ingredients, but many countries produce great pork (Not Australia sadly), so it must be something else. These sausage most certainly contain saltpetre (or a similar agent) as the meat turns bright pink upon cooking and has a slightly firm granular texture that you get when using saltpetre. But again many fresh European sausage contains saltpetre. Could it be the fat content and the way that it is distributed through the meat, so that upon cooking the meat is based, by the melting fat, but the fat drains away form the sausage? Certainly the sausages are contain much fat and taste very rich, but on eating the item there is never the impression of greasiness that you can get with eating a British style sausage that contains a significant amount of ceral content. What's it all about then?
  18. He invented it, so he gets to name it. +++ Be sure to check The Daily Gullet home page daily for new articles (most every weekday), hot topics, site announcements, and more.
  19. Does anyone know any mail-order or online delis in the UK that sell a good slab of pancetta. At the moment all I've been able to find is the pancetta type lardons that the supermarkets sell. Thanks Ian
  20. I have made a few trips to Lancaster, Pa and done the Amish country tourist thing. Among the memorable experiences was a Saturday morning visit to the Central Market in the center of Lancaster. Several vendors there sell cold cut type meats, but what pleased me most were some smoky sausage-type links, tasting a little like pepperoni, but a little softer and much smokier. These links are about 3/4 inch in diameter, and about 4 inches long. They are tied together. They are ready to eat, no cooking. I often dream about these little tasty links, but I live in NJ, and Lancaster is a long ride. Can anyone better identify these links for me, and is there a place maybe in Philly, or anybody in the Amish country that will mail order? (I did not see them at the Reading Market). Thanks very much.
  21. I grew up eating Italian Sausages, usually home-made ones made by my Italian grandmother or her neighbor. These were wonderful sausages filled with fennel seeds, garlic and other spices and the ones my mom bought from the store tasted similar (though not quite as good! ) I just found Italian sausages for the first time in Japan and as I was looking through various cookbooks on ways to cook them I noticed they all specified sausages with out any spices added. Quite surprised I ran to my freezer to look at my sausages and sure enough no fennel seeds, no garlic, nothing! How can you make sausage without fennel seeds? Is this just some regional differences in Italian sausages? What happened to the fennel?
  22. We had a chicken with chinese sausages and black mushrooms from "Staffmeals from Chanterelle" yesterday for dinner. As recommended by the book i bought sausages containing some duck liver. As i sliced them to put into a pan for cooking i tried one piece, and it really tasted funny, almost coconut-sweety, but i decided to proceed. The dish came out pretty well; chicken, mushrooms (i used fresh oysters) and braising liquid (contained oyster sauce, chicken stock, soy sauce, ginger and scallions) were very tasty, but i still was not thrilled by those sausages. The dish is really worth trying again, but what's with sausages? Should i try some other brand? My store carries about ten of different kinds.
  23. Does anyone know of a place in Manhattan whereby one can pick up fresh uncooked sausages? I'm looking for garlic-heavy pork sausages in particular. Italian or Spanish style if possible. thx, SA
  24. I'm not easily alarmed, but I do know that the word "botulism" comes from the Latin for "sausage." So I'm looking at a sausage recipe (for an upcoming column, so I don't want to give away the whole story, but it contains rice) that calls for the stuffed links to be hung at room temperature for five days to give them a nice fermented tang. No curing salts are called for. How risky is this? Would curing salts make it safer? If so, would the curing salts change the flavor a lot? I'm looking for a lot of lactic acid production and not a lot of botulinum toxin production.
  25. Stone

    Second -- Bacon

    "Smushy crisp" -- a description from someone else's post. And a perfect description at that. That's just how I like it. Not too crisp, or it dries out my mouth. Not too rare or, well, it's just gross. How do you like your bacon? (Other than plentiful.)
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