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  1. I'm a fan of Bobak's bacon, so I trekked down to their new Naperville store after reading a full-page ad in this week's Sun-Times food section. What a weird and encouraging trip: Bobak's occupies a defunct Jewel or Dominick's on 75th Street, right next to the Driver's Licence facility that flunked me twice before I got a state driving inspector who was drunk at 9:00 am. They sell real food, 60 per cent of which is Polish. Sausage and pork. Great deli. Strange Polish vodkas that come in bottles blown to resemble semi-automatic assault weapons. Piles of kohlrabi and parsnips in the produce section, and an amazing assortment of sauerkrauet, mushrooms and cherries, both fresh and pickled. They make their own sausage and deli meats -- if I wanted to, I could buy honeycom tripe or veal "oxtails." Everything is, of course, immaculate and neat. The place was packed, both with Polish speakers and Naperville soccer moms buying Choice beef. The prices were better than fair. It was fun. They also have a large buffet restaurant of the all you can eat for ten bucks variety. It was very, very busy. Heck, I'd happily pay ten bucks for all-I could-eat-pierogi.
  2. What makes these things so damn good...is it the many cerveza's consumed prior....but man are they good..anyone know how they are made and what makes em special...let hear it from all of you whom have cruised a border town, eaten one and lived to tell about it!
  3. I woke up this morning with an incredible bacon craving. Guess I needed something high-octaine to get past the front page of the newspaper. Who has got the best bacon? My recent experience was in this little restaurant in Middleberg, Hidden Horse or something, out of nowhere eureka my bacon cheese burger was hiding incredible bacon. I took it right off the bun and ate it in its purest form. I need more good bacon......where is it?
  4. After tasting peanut butter bacon cookies at the last eGullet NJ picnic, it has finally dawned on me that there is nothing on this planet that doesn't go well with bacon. Am I stating the obvious here? Am I missing something? Bacon reminds me of lecithin. Do you know the way that lecithin has a water loving head and fat loving tail?. Bacon has those same hermaphroditic qualities, except it's savory head and a sweet tail. Come up with a food where bacon would be completely out of place. I dare you :)
  5. A group of us had dinner at Salumi last Friday night. There were three other eGulleteers, all more active posters than me, and I expect they'll pipe in with details. Also, I took photos of most of the courses and some of the action and at some point I'll add a few to this thread if there's interest. For now, I'll just list some of my random thoughts from the evening. Armandino mentioned that as of last Thursday, Salumi is USDA-certified to ship his cured meats around the country. I told him that's too bad; it's already tough enough to find them in Seattle. Armandino's daughter (Gina?) worked with him on the meal. He proudly announced that she's now half-owner in Salumi. My personal favorite course of the many we had was a very simple grilled sea bass, served cold. This was perhaps the best fish dish I've ever eaten. Perfectly fresh, perfectly cooked; just excellent. Other standouts: the cured meats (of course), the unscotti (recipe to be published in Sept. Bon Appetite), the rabbit. I'll download a photo of the menu later, from home.
  6. I could use some expert/experienced help in making these special treats. Any ideas will be appreciated.
  7. I’ve always loved making gumbos, and have gotten to the point where I’m very pleased with the my concoctions – most of them are pretty basic, traditional gumbos. But I moved from the U.S. sometime ago, and authentic Southern US ingredients are not in ready supply – in fact, pretty much non-existent. One of the key, basic ingredients I love to add to my gumbos is: andouille. The good news is, I have a feeling that "andouille," or something very satifsfactorily similar exists here in Melbourne – even if under a different name. I say that because, there’s a huge selection here of European (both mediterranean and eastern) sausages, smoked and cured meats, deli items, etc etc, pretty much everywhere you turn. The main market in Melbourne, Queen Victoria Market, has a staggeringly fantastic amount of choice: Italian, French, Hungarian, Polish, Greek, Turkish … truly bountiful. So I wonder if someone can help me find the closest equivalent to andouille, from these or other cultures. Never having made it, I’m not sure of any very-specifically-Southern U.S. spices or additions that go into the real thing, but even leaving those aside, what’s the next closest beast? Italian Cotechino? Polish Kielbasa? French garlic sausage? Spanish chorizo? I’m not totally up on which (if any) of these kinds of sausages are smoked, like an andouille is. Thanks for any help you can provide everyone.
  8. As a follow up to Meat Grinders I would like some recipes for sausages. The things I have easy access to are beef and pork and chicken. My inclination would be for beef and/or pork sausage. Cased or not. Thanks in advance!
  9. I was stuck in Chelsea for a time today and thought I might as well check out Salumeria Biellese, reported maker of fine salumi, some of the city's best. Ed Levine, I believe, called the owner a genius of salumi in his Times article on heroes. I expected salumi hanging from the ceiling -- an Aurthur Ave/Mike's Deli kind of experience. This place was a run down little shop with some raw sausages, some prepared pasta and eggplant, and some salumi peaking out of a fridge behind the counter. I'll spare you the long description of my awful hero: bland salumi and flavorless roasteds. When I got home I reread Ed's article and found this . The one I tried was on the corner of 8th Ave at 29th Street.Are there two places with the same name, one designed to fool impatient readers like me? I was obviously in the wrong place, right? ... right?
  10. In a recently received gift basket, I got a large package of Andouille sausages from D'Artagnan. Since I limit my rare occasion of meat consumption to fish and shellfish, I have no idea what to do with them except as flavoring agents in Gumbo and Paella. Does anyone have any ideas? I don't mind cooking them, I just don't want to eat them.
  11. My favorite town in the world (and not just because of my Ole Miss alma mater) has a new place called L&M Kitchen and Salumeria. We picked up a to-go pressed sandwich last night. Mrs. Tater got the sausage/ragu and I got the house special with prosciutto, coppa and another forgotten italian pork product. Excellent italian cheeses too. Great atmosphere and really good service. EDIT: I'll update more when we try more. They have antipasta, ensalata, pasta and entrees as well.
  12. Does anyone have a recipe for Chinese bacon? My husband and I are crazy about it but the only way we know how to cook it is with sauteed green vegetables. There must be some more interesting things to do with this delicious ingredient.
  13. howard88

    Duck Confit

    I just finished putting together my first duck confit using legs and thighs from D'artagnan. They are resting under duck fat in the refrigerator. I was thinking about doing the same with chicken thighs and legs. I have not seen this process done with chicken. Anyone out there with chicken confit experience?
  14. I've got a recipe from an American cookbook that calls for pancetta and I'm in France. Does anyone know what the charcuterie equivalent of this Italian meat would be here?
  15. Peel me a grape, Mamster. +++ Be sure to check The Daily Gullet home page daily for new articles (most every weekday), hot topics, site announcements, and more.
  16. Pancetta Embossed Chicken My creation is no penicillin, ice cream cone, or Toll House cookie, but it could save your life if you are starving and has at least as many calories as the latter. There's nothing wrong with the "bacon-wrapped" motif, but its execution is so often inferior to its promise. The bacon is frequently over- or under-cooked; bacon is sliced so thick that it overwhelms whatever it is wrapping; too much bacon fat is absorbed; and so on. Here's a technique that avoids all of these problems and pairs bacon with one of its ideal partners: chicken skin. It started with a recipe for "Chicken with Pancetta and Balsamic Vinegar" from Mark Bittman’s column in the New York Times. I halved the ingredients and used chicken thighs, and it was quite good. But the best part by far was that bits of pancetta had been caught under the chicken while it was browning. They had become fused with the chicken skin! The crispy chicken-bacon, combined with the tender meat, made for a terrific eating experience. Again this triumph was an accident. I had been trying to avoid the bacon bits when I put the chicken into the pan, figuring I'd end up with a pancetta-laden pan sauce. Good thing I blew it. Unfortunately, because I had chopped the pancetta, these moments of glory were rare. I wanted all of the chicken skin to be bacon-infused. The solution was obvious: give each thigh its own slice of pancetta. It requires no more bacon than the original recipe, but it all ends up in exactly the right place. If you put this stuff in a plastic pouch at the 7-Eleven, it would put jerky out of business. Plus it's my recipe so I get to give it a ridiculous name. 4 chicken thighs (bone in, skin on) 4 slices of Pancetta, round and thin 1 T olive oil salt and pepper Place the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add pancetta and cook a few seconds until translucent. Add chicken skin-side down, placing each thigh directly onto a pancetta slice. Reduce heat to medium. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook 15 minutes or until bacon and skin are well browned. Turn chicken and add a bit more pepper. Cook until underside is browned and chicken is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Alternatively turn the chicken, transfer the pan to a 400-degree oven, and bake until cooked through (about 10 minutes, but check around the bone for pinkness and pull it as soon as it's cooked through). If you're using the oven, you may want to transfer the chicken to a foil-lined jelly roll pan so that you can use the skillet to make a pan sauce. For the pan sauce: pour off most of the chicken fat, deglaze with 1/2 cup white wine, reduce by half, and season with salt and pepper. Off the heat, add a pat of butter and a tablespoon of white wine vinegar. Pool it under the chicken -- you worked hard for that crispy skin, and it would be a shame to spoil it now just because you were feeling saucy. Serve on hot plates with mashed potatoes or egg noodles and your choice of vegetable. Keywords: Chicken, Main Dish, Intermediate, Dinner, Italian, The Daily Gullet ( RG191 )
  17. Ricotta, sausage and Spinach Calzones Serves 4 as Main Dish. This is a rough recipe for a favorite clazone of mine. I never follow a recipe for this but the following is a rough estimate. The key to those is the overnight rest in the fridge and using the best quality ricotta you can find. If you cannot find any, then make your own. Dough (enough for 4 to 5 calzones): 4 c bread flour 2 tsp Kosher salt 1 tsp instant yeast 2 T extra virgin olive oil 1-1/2 c tepid water Filling Extra virgin olive oil, for cooking and drizzling 3 Italian sausages, removed from the casing and crumbled 2 Large garlic cloves, chopped 1 (8 oz) package frozen chopped spinach, defrosted 2 c good quality crumbly ricotta, preferably homemade 1/2 c good quality freshly grated Parmesan cheese salt and pepper 1-1/2 c shredded mozzarella cheese Crushed chile flakes (optional) Semolina Flour for dusting Start these the night before you want to bake them. Prepare the dough by putting all ingredients in a food processor and mix for a few seconds to incorporate. Start adding the water. Add one cup at first and process for 25 seconds, add the remaining water and process until you have a cohesive elastic dough. Let the processor work the dough for about thirty seconds to develop the gluten. It should not be too wet or sticky. It should be easy to handle and elastic. Put the dough on a floured kitchen surface and knead for a minute or so. Form into a ball. Oil a bowl with a little olive oil and put the dough in there. Roll it around to cover it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it rise at room temperature for about 2.5 hours or until it doubles in size. Make the filling by sautéing the sausage in some olive oil over medium heat until cooked through. Add the garlic and cook for another minute or two, do not allow it to color. Squeeze your spinach dry and add it to the pan. Saute for about a minute. In a large bowl, crumble your ricotta. Once the spinach mixture is cool add it to the ricotta along with the parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper and if it is a little too dry add a glug or two of good extra virgin olive oil (I always do). When the dough is proofed, cut it into 4 equal pieces, form each one into a ball. Now flatten them and use a rolling pin to roll them into rough circles about 10-12 inches in diameter. If the dough is too elastic let it rest for a few minutes and then keep on rolling. Fill each round of dough on one half, with the ricotta mixture, top it with a good portion of the shredded mozzarella and some crushed chile flakes if you like them. Fold the dough over, like a half moon and press the edges with your fingers. Chances are you will have a lot of extra “edge”. Trim this with a sharp knife leaving no more than 1/2 an inch. Crimp the edge with a fork to seal properly or fold the edge over itself to give it a more cool look. With the trimmed edges you can probably make a fifth calzone. Dust a baking sheet heavily with semolina flour and lay the clazones on it. Brush them with olive oil, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Heat your oven to 400F. When the oven is heating remove the calzones from the fridge, dust them with semolina (this is optional, but it gives them an extra layer of texture that is lovely), and make three vents in each one with a sharp knife or scisors. Bake for about 30 minutes or until GB&D, golden brown and deliciouse. Let them rest, if you can, for 10 minutes before slicing and serving. Keywords: Main Dish, Dinner, Intermediate, Bread, Cheese, Italian, Lunch ( RG1466 )
  18. Bacon Cheddar Toast Points 2 c shredded sharp cheddar cheese 3/4 c mayonnaise 1/2 c cooked, crumbled bacon 1 French baguette Mix the cheese, bacon and mayonnaise together. Slice the baquette on the diagonal into 24 slices. Spread the cheese mixture on one side of each slice. Place on a baking sheet and bake at 425 for 8-10 minutes, until golden brown. Keywords: Hors d'oeuvre ( RG880 )
  19. Chicken and Sausage Gumbo It all started when I went to the meat market this morning and bought 3 lbs of chicken thighs. These are not Tyson's Plastic, but real chicken cut by real butchers. They are very good. I got 2 lbs of Richard's Pork Sausage and made a couple of stops to fill my vegetable needs. Sausage from Richard's is great --looks like cased ham! This stuff is just awesome. If you can get it I highly reccomend it. They make (imho) the best commercial pork products in the US. For a photo play-by-play, click Here. And, here's the definitive EG thread on Gumbo. Gumbo cooked 'round the world. 3 lb chicken thighs 2 lb pork sausage sliced, into about 1/4" coins Dusting: 2 c flour 1 T salt 1 tsp paprika 1 T cayenne powder 1 tsp cracked black pepper Peanut oil Roux: 1/3 c all purpose flour 1/3 c peanut oil Trinity 2 green peppers (one green and one red or yellow), diced 4 ribs celery, diced 2 medium onions, diced 8 cloves of garlic, minced 1 T dried basil 1 T dried oregano 2 tsp cayenne 2 tsp black fine crushed black pepper 1 T salt 6 c chicken, turkey or pork stock Partially skin the thighs (I like to leave a little fat, adds to the flavor when browning). Dust with spiced flour. Brown the dusted thighs in peanut oil. I like peanut oil as it can take a pretty good beating, adds a nice nutty taste, and you can get it very hot without burning. Turn once and hardly move while they were browning. Remove thighs and place on paper towels. Brown the sausage coins. I like to get it a little toasty. It adds both flavor and texture to the dish. Time to make the roux. You may wish to review my photo essay (linked above) to see the process as it colors. The pan has been drained, but not scraped after the browning of the sausage and chicken. It is placed over very high heat (wide open on a normal burner, Flour and oil added; this mixture is stirred constantly. Scrape up the remainder of the meat as you go. Scrape hard and get it all loose or it will all burn and you will have to start over. First you will have the light roux. Sort of the color of a skinned almond. Medium Roux. Very light brown. At this point I have been stirring about 5 minutes. It is getting very hot. WARNING-This method of making Roux was popularized during Paul Prudhomme's stay as Head Chef at Commander's Palace in New Orleans. The kitchen staff came to call this type of roux "cajun napalm". If you splash and get it on you it will stick to you and burn you badly (if you try to wipe it off while it is hot the burn will just spread) so BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL. Dark Roux. Darker brown; approaching Hershey's chocolate syrup. Now we've gotten there. At this point (maybe 10 minutes in) the oil is just starting to smoke a little bit and I am ready to stop the process. Onion, celery, bell pepper and in. This stops the browning process with the flour and the oil. Stand back as you dump-it can be a pretty lively thing. You are, after all, pouring hot water into oil. At this point I have just mixed the veg and the roux evenly. The bottom was carefully scraped, as were the sides. Then I add the garlic and I turn the heat to medium low and slowly simmer with the top on, stirring and scraping occasionally. By adding now these spices will incorporate nicely with the veg mix and basically melt into the mix. Getting the veg to the right point will take about 15 minutes. Now is the time to add the garlic. Taste at this point and adjust spicing. (some like it hot, some not. I find that with this type of gumbo I do not prefer it so spicy. The veg, sausage, and especially the chicken all stand out on their own and don't need to be bammed to heavily with spice-but as always it is a matter of personal choice) Add 6-8 cups of stock, the chicken, and the sausage. It is all stirred well and brought to a boil while uncovered. Once it hits a boil, let boil for 5 min or so on low boil, cut the heat back down to medium low and simmer for one and a half hours with the lid on. Skim fat occasionally if you wish. There will not be much grease if you did the first two steps right and bought quality sausage. About ten minutes before finish of simmer time, add 1/2 cup coarsely chopped parsely and 6 or 8 chopped green onions (tops and bottoms). Ready to plate. Yessir Buddy! That's the stuff I was looking for (I wouldn't have showed it if I had screwed it up). It is a very nice color, thick but not too, and has a nice spicy tang to it while not being overpowering. You should be able to taste the veg, chicken, and sausage nicely and the three really are working together the way that they are supposed to. A nice spicy tang while not overpowering. Fit for Royalty. A bargain at any price. Keywords: Soup, Main Dish, Intermediate ( RG1186 )
  20. Creamed Spinach with Bacon Serves 6 as Side. I first started making this after tasting a similar dish at Colonel Sander's original restaurant west of Shelbyville, KY. The Colonel and his wife used to stand in the yard of their home next door to the restaurant and greet diners there. The Colonel's menu included four entrees: fried chicken, steak, country ham and lobster. With these, he served mashed potatoes and gravy and SEVEN vegetables, passed family style. One such combination I had there was the creamed spinach, tomato pudding, mock oysters (eggplant), carrot souffle, corn pudding, green beans and Harvard beets. Instead of fresh spinach, you may use one 10 ounce package of frozen chopped spinach, but it won't be as good. Sometimes I add the onion, sometimes not. 1 lb fresh young spinach 4 slices bacon 2 T butter 2 T flour 1/2 c milk 1/2 c heavy cream Salt and white pepper 1 T grated onion (optional) Wash the spinach, remove stems and drop in briefly into a large pot of salted boiling water over high heat. When it returns to a boil, drain in a sieve and let sit while you make the sauce. If you are using frozen spinach, let it come to room temperature, you don't need to cook it. Fry bacon crisp and drain on paper towels. Melt the butter in a 1 or 1 1/2 quart saucepan over medium heat. If you are using onion, add now. Add flour, cook and stir for several minutes to remove raw taste. Add milk and cream, salt and white pepper, and stir with a whisk until it boils. Lower heat. Crumble the bacon into very tiny pieces and add. Squeeze the spinach well, with hands or in a ricer or however you prefer, and add to the sauce. Leave over low heat for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. For best flavor, refrigerate overnight and reheat. Keywords: Side, Easy, Vegetables, American ( RG730 )
  21. Bacon Cheddar Toast Points 2 c shredded sharp cheddar cheese 3/4 c mayonnaise 1/2 c cooked, crumbled bacon 1 French baguette Mix the cheese, bacon and mayonnaise together. Slice the baquette on the diagonal into 24 slices. Spread the cheese mixture on one side of each slice. Place on a baking sheet and bake at 425 for 8-10 minutes, until golden brown. Keywords: Hors d'oeuvre ( RG880 )
  22. Blue Cheese Creamed Spinach with Pancetta Serves 4 as Side. This is a popular side at our place. It serves four moderately, 2 generously. 4 slices of pancetta 1/2 medium yellow onion, chopped 1 T pine nuts 3 oz cream cheese 2 oz blue cheese or similar 1/2 tsp salt 6 oz baby spinach, washed and patted dry In a large, heavy frying pan cook pancetta till crisp but not brown. Remove pancetta from pan, reserve. Add onion to pancetta fat in pan, saute until transparent. Add pine nuts, salt and cheeses. Stir a bit, 1-2 minutes, then add spinach. Stir untill spinach is wilted and chese is completely melted. Serve immediately, topped with reserved pancetta slices. Keywords: Easy, Vegetables, Side ( RG870 )
  23. Guest

    1hour Onion Confit

    1hour Onion Confit This is a great accompiament and goes with all sorts of grilled meats as well as a simple topping for canapes,bruschetta or pizza. This technique is also alot quicker than the traditional one, a bit more labor intensive though, same amazing flavor though!!! 6 white onions,sliced about 1/2 inch wide 2tbsp butter 2tbsp olive oil pinch of salt 1cup white wine 1/4cup sugar 7cups chicken stock Saute white onions in a large heavy bottom pot, stir occasionly until very dark brown about 15min, don't worry if the bottom is getting dark this is where the rich sweetness comes from. Deglaze with the wine, wait till almost evaporated then add the sugar along with one cup of stock, keep trying to scrape up as much browned bits as possible. Let the stock completely evaporate until onions are just wet. Continue adding stock one cup at a time, waiting till one cup as reduced until adding the next.Test the onions around 5 cups keep adding stock till they dissolve in your mouth. Keywords: Vegetables, Side ( RG976 )
  24. Linguine with Squash, Goat Cheese and Bacon Serves 4 as Main Dishor 6 as Side. I stumbled on this while looking for recipes with goat cheese. It's from Real Simple (and it is!). I couldn't imagine the combination of flavors, but it was wonderful. 6 slices bacon 1 2- to 2 ½-pound butternut squash—peeled, seeded, and diced (4 to 5 cups) 2 cloves garlic, minced 1-1/2 c chicken broth 1 tsp kosher salt 4 oz soft goat cheese, crumbled 1 lb linguine, cooked 1 T olive oil 2 tsp freshly ground black pepper Cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Drain on a paper towel, then crumble or break into pieces; set aside. Drain all but about 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat from the skillet. Add the squash and garlic to the skillet and sauté over medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the broth and salt. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the squash is cooked through and softened, 20 to 25 minutes. Add half the goat cheese and stir well to combine. Place the cooked linguine in a large bowl. Stir the sauce into the linguine and toss well to coat. Drizzle with the olive oil and add the reserved bacon, the remaining goat cheese, and the pepper. Serve immediately. Keywords: Main Dish, Easy, Vegetables, Dinner ( RG2158 )
  25. Butternut Squash with Corn, Spinach, Bacon, Onions, and Basil Serves 8 as Side. Thanks to MatthewB for turning me on to this simple recipe, which originally appeared in the November 1998 Bon Appétit. I'm sure that it's a given on eGullet, but I'd still like to emphasize that the fresher the ingredients, the better. (The original recipe specified packaged spinach and frozen corn.) Proportions can be adjusted at will. I made this for the 2003 Heartland Gathering in Grand Rapids using thick-cut farm bacon, with the other ingredients coming straight from the GR Farmer's Market. Outstanding! ½ lb bacon 1 large onion (about 2 cups chopped) 1 large butternut squash 9-10 oz spinach leaves 4-6 ears corn or 1 lb frozen kernels ½ cup or more chopped fresh basil salt and pepper Prep: Chop bacon crosswise, ~1/3-1/2" wide. Chop onion into fine dice. Peel squash (and seed, if using round segment) and cut into ~1/3" dice. Wash and coarsely chop spinach, if needed; baby spinach can be left whole. If using fresh corn, remove husk and silk and cut kernels from cob. Wait to chop the basil until it's time to add it. Cook: In a large pot or sauté pan over medium heat, cook the bacon until it is just getting crisp. Add the onion and squash and sauté until the squash is just tender (10-12 min.). Add the corn. If using frozen corn or older fresh corn, cook for a few minutes before adding the spinach; if using very fresh corn, add the spinach at the same time. Cook until the spinach wilts. Chop, then stir in the basil. Add salt (careful!) and pepper to taste. Keywords: Side, Easy, Vegetables, American ( RG737 )
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