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Everything posted by jaw

  1. i'm with you. i have various scales in various capacity/resolution ranges for different tasks. for this one, i have a Jennings CJ-4000 (4kg x 0.5g) that lives on my countertop connected to AC power. i put the rice cooker bowl on the scale, tare, weigh the rice, tare, wash the rice, and then weigh the water. notice that i tare before rinsing. the rinse residue is included in my water weight. for me, i wager that this is at least as fast as measuring the rice and water volumetrically. i can just pour the rice directly in the bowl without stopping. no fiddling with the stupid measuring cup up to 6 times, making sure each cupful is level, etc. i have a small table taped to my wall next to my scale with measurements i've tweaked bit by bit over time. the columns are for "portions" -- 1-6 portions, where 6 portions represents the max capacity of my cooker. the first row is rice mass. the subsequent rows are water masses for various kinds of rice i use (water for tamaki gold, water for brown rice, etc). i use scales whenever it makes sense (which is almost always). my recipes are all formulated gravimetrically in spreadsheets in google drive in a recipe folder. i just have to change the value in the "portions" cell to quickly scale the measurements. i like this system.
  2. for BB&B, you should be using a 20% coupon on every order. ideally, you should split orders with multiple over-$39 items into multiple orders -- the coupon is 20% off a single item, and the free shipping threshold is $39. i make a new account with a new email address every time, but i don't know if that's actually necessary. coupon link: https://offers.bedbathandbeyond.com/SignupWidget/dynamic/BBBUS-email-printable-offers_FEO some brand exclusions apply (look at the list). you have to wait a little. it does arrive within a day or so, though. link to creami for convenience: https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/ninja-creami-ice-cream-maker-in-silver/5628259
  3. you mean a portable induction cooktop? if so, no. i only have a CF. but the vollrath 4-series is worth a look. see this post for my thoughts: i mostly cook on this miele HR 1622-2 induction range: https://www.mieleusa.com/e/30-inch-range-hr-1622-2-10902350-p i strongly prefer it for general purpose cooking. the oven is also pretty badass. is there room for improvement on this device as well? of course. but it's pretty good. not perfect, but it's imo the best range currently on the market.
  4. in terms the burner's size and evenness of the field, the CF is acceptable. however, even if i had several CFs, i personally would not want it as my main cooktop. for general cooking, i prefer controlling power output (open loop control). 0%-100% (100 settings) or actual power in watts would be ideal. instead, you only get three power output settings, and beyond that you must select a temperature setpoint (closed loop). turning the setpoint all the way up is not enough for good open loop control with only three output settings. you can't trick it to work around it. it is rather finicky with cookware compatibility/recognition. slightly warped stuff that should work (and DOES work on other induction cooktops) often won't work on CF. for me, it is a specialty tool. i usually cook on my miele induction range which gives 12 power output settings. love the build quality, though.
  5. cool system, @CentralMA. pics? does pressure equalization happen somehow? i.e. is your jug of soap caved in, and does it become progressively harder/slower to dispense?
  6. jaw

    Ooni pizza oven

    for peels, Gi Metal or bust. they have a wide range of products, and i bet you can get short handles for these portable ovens. or at least shorter handles. if you want, it's also easy to trim the handles with a saw. https://gimetalusa.com/gimetal-our-products i have A-32RF/120 launching peel and I-20 turning peel, but my oven is much bigger.
  7. 10% off on tapmaster sink foot actuators on conservastore.com code: EARTHDAY21 expires 4/22/21 midnight (idk which timezone)
  8. well, there's a 10% off sale at conservastore (code EARTHDAY21, expires tomorrow), so i got a "euro" style to try out on another sink. it will be fun to compare to the kickplate style. i'll eventually update with which style i prefer and why.
  9. even for the CF, that's more than flat enough. any updates?
  10. eh the price on that skillet has been 14.88 for almost all of the past year. they dropped the price by less than a dollar. 89 cents savings, lol.
  11. hmm, idk. 500-600usd is a hard sell for an immersion circulator.
  12. thermoworks doesn't manufacture the thermapen, either. ETI does. https://blog.thermoworks.com/thermometer/thermoworks-eti-ltd/ that's not a criticism. just sharing because i thought it was interesting.
  13. first, i assert that it's not all about precision. i think they should have had a "classic" mode without temp control (but where temp is displayed!). i.e. you pick power output in watts or percentage or whatever, and there is no closed-loop temp feedback. this would have added no cost to the device and would have made it more versatile. as for my pans, they aren't warped enough to matter in the way you suggest. also, you realize there's a gap in the field in the center of the resonator too (where the contact sensor is), right? the power distribution isn't perfectly even across the cooking surface, and there's always going to be a temp gradient as a consequence of finite thermal conductivity. even if my pans were ridiculously warped, i think i should still be capable of cooking on them unless there's a technical limitation that physically prevents it from working. why should i not be able to do something just because "computer says no"? especially if i paid a lot of money for it, lol. failure to "detect" usable cookware is an undesirable limitation.
  14. unfortunately, the CF is finicky with cookware detection. i talked about this earlier in the thread. i have a lot of slightly-to-moderately warped stainless cookware that works fine 100% of the time on my miele induction range but works inconsistently on my CF. sometimes, it works fine on CF. sometimes, it stops working mid-cook. other times, it won't work at all. it's a shame because it's an issue that could be fixed in software. i emailed polysci and asked them to release a fw update with a debug/calibration menu that could let you adjust the coupling detection threshold, but obviously they don't want to do that. they don't even trust their users to update their own fw anymore lol. it does work fine with modern cookware "designed for induction" that is in good condition (perfectly flat-bottomed). but if you have "borderline" cookware, don't expect it to work even though it could (and should).
  15. i can't tell if you're joking or not. giving the benefit of the doubt, the 12 days of cheese sale says: i'm saying that this year they're doing something different. they'll honor sale for all of the previous days' cheeses, but you have to ask them to slap a special PLU sticker on there. i'm just talking about cheese on sale, but thanks for the "lesson" i guess 🙄
  16. two whole foods in my area will sell the previous days' cheeses at half off. you have to ask them to stick a special sticker on them though. i went today and got several different ones on sale. edit: i mean that today in particular, you can get any of the '12 days of cheese' cheeses at half off.
  17. sometimes, i wonder if the CF is actually necessary or worth it. this is not one of those times. the CF shines in candy and sauce making. in this case, it was trivial to make syrup without scorching or caramelizing anything. i candied some aji lemon drops (C. baccatum). ingredients: 350g water 250g sugar 2g citric acid 3g salt half a lemon 360g aji lemon drops (cut, destemmed, and deseeded) meticulously cutting and cleaning the peppers is BY FAR the most time consuming part. you don't have to do this i guess, but i'd at least cut them in half. i just think the small, clean pieces eat better, and removing the placental tissue makes the heat level very tolerable to most people. the pepper weight above is after cleaning and cutting. the sugar, water, citric acid, and salt were combined in a saucepan. the lemon was squeezed in as well, and the rind was then sliced into 1cm strips and added to the saucepan for extra pectin. T+0 1) sucose inversion (acid-catalyzed hydrolysis): the CF was set to 215°F in pan control mode (cookware contact sensor), and the mixture was heated for 30 minutes at slow/medium power as needed to maintain a gentle simmer. it was stirred to get everything dissolved while it came up to temp. T+30min 2) pepper candying: the lemon rind was removed, and the peppers were added. the setpoint was raised to 232°F, and the mixture was gently stirred until the syrup hit >230°F (thread stage) as measured by thermapen (about 15min). it was necessary to tilt the pan and let the syrup pool up to get a good reading. at this point, the peppers were translucent. T+45min 3) jarring: pour them in a jar, let cool to room temp, and put in the fridge. they keep a long time. if you want, you can prop up one side of the pan on something to let the excess syrup drain away. sometimes, i do this and put the syrup in a separate container because i don't like the candied peppers super syrupy. enjoy them on stuff like pancakes, sandwiches, pizza, etc. yield: about 430g (somewhat less than a pint)
  18. 18% off sitewide on thermoworks. thermapen, anyone? sale just started today. doesn't say when it ends. no code necessary. https://www.thermoworks.com
  19. i don't doubt that's possible, but have you seen this implemented before? got any pics or links to specific parts? not trying to grill you, just genuinely curious. i thought about doing that, but i couldn't find any off the shelf solution. it would have been a lot of hardware.
  20. yes, it's only on/off. you adjust the temp and flowrate from the faucet (and leave the faucet on). i had some small doubts, but after using it, i love it. by default, i leave it warm-hot (but not scalding). it almost doesn't matter which temp anyways since i don't have a hot water recirculation system (is that the next project? lol), and i'm often not using the sink long enough for it to get up to temp. when i'm doing dishes, i set it to scalding once, and when i'm done, i move it back to warm. etc. i definitely touch the faucet way less. yes, but they aren't solenoids. no electricity. they're hydraulic valves, and the working fluid is tap water that automatically works its way into the control lines when you pump the pedal. using mechanical advantage in the pedal design, it doesn't take much effort from your foot to put enough pressure in the control lines to close open the valves. things that work well ARE beautiful! but there's also the euro (lever) style one i mention in the OP:
  21. i've wanted foot pedal actuation for the kitchen sink (and every other sink, honestly) for a long time, and now it's set up! why? it's very convenient to be able to get a quick splash of water without reaching over to the faucet valve. imagine repetitive tasks like doing dishes. also, if your hands are dirty, you don't have to touch anything to rinse them off. after researching, i found that there are products available that can be used to retrofit existing fixtures. they work by placing remotely-actuated valves in series with the fixture supply shutoffs. i think i saw a few kinds of valve actuation: hydraulic (using tap water as the working fluid), solenoid, and tension cable. of these, hydraulic seems like the industry standard. it appears to be a tested technology that's been used in dental, medical, and other commercial applications for decades. i found two promising hydraulic manufacturers: https://www.tapmaster.ca/ http://autotap.net/ even though it was more expensive, i ended up going with tapmaster. seems to be of overall higher quality, and i like the design more (both of the foot pedal and the valves). if you end up getting one of these (or another brand), be sure to get one that lets you lock it on for continuous flow. sometimes, you'll want to bypass it and use it like a normal faucet if you're filling up a big pot or whatever. i got model 1750 which is the kick plate style (with locking mechanism for continuous flow): i chose that over the euro style because i think it's probably more ergonomic to use with repetitive tasks. with the kickplate, i don't even have to move my foot. i just have my toes resting against it, and i extend them forward a bit. with the euro style, i think you probably have to move your foot side to side a bit or pivot on your ankle. update: after looking at the euro's manual, it seems that you can actually actuate it by pushing the probe in any direction, including straight forward/inward assuming you have sufficient clearance so the probe doesn't bump the cabinet toekick. i thought it had to be to the side like they show in the vid i linked. if i had known that, i might have gotten it instead of the kickplate. oh well. i like solid, industrial things anyways. aside from looking way more conspicuous, a less obvious downside to tapmaster's kickplate style is it can be fiddly to tune the lock mechanism. mine wasn't right from the factory, and i had to adjust the clearance between actuator and the kickplate. if the gap's too small (or touching), the latch doesn't disengage. if it's too big, it won't stay latched. the manual suggests 0.02" of clearance. i tried to hit that spec using a feeler gauge (commonly used for adjusting valve clearance in an engine), but it was a waste of time. what worked for me was adjusting it bit by bit until it was perfect. in my case, i increased the clearance a half turn of the actuator's rear mounting nut at a time (take off the front nut and washers to make it easier). to make it easy to keep track of orientation, mark one corner of the rear nut with a sharpie. once i was in the ballpark, i found that repositioning by a quarter turn got me where i wanted. another quarter turn from there in either direction gave bad performance. i don't think the euro style needs this kind of fiddling. i felt it was a big waste of time, but whatever. all done now! overall, i'm extremely satisfied with the product. i love using it. here's my installation (control line fished under the cabinet): i'm also proud of that garbage disposal, lol. insinkerator evolution excel. 1 HP and very quiet! i bought my tapmaster from conservastore.com ($344) because i couldn't find a better deal. their site said "in stock", but it took them about two weeks to ship it (missing a deadline they gave). however, to their credit, they did have excellent communication. i can recommend them if you don't mind waiting. anyone else have a similar setup going?
  22. rotuts, with respect, i don't see the word "bluetooth" anywhere on the APO's spec page. afaik, that's just not going to happen for you. a suggestion... why not just plug in your "router" but not use it as a router? either disable its router (e.g. NAT) functionality or just don't plug anything into its WAN port. all you need is a wireless access point and probably a DHCP server to provide clients on your WiLAN with IPs. if you just plug it into a power supply, you get these features out of the box no instant grams, no face books. but you can get your in-home gadgets talking to each other.
  23. going back to the topic of fissler valve pressure from years ago... despite being told that US models aren't being sold anymore (see a few posts back), i received a 10L vitavit premium directly from fissler usa's online shop with US stamped on the lid (handle is removed in this pic): i'm guessing 2919 is a date code, but i don't know how to interpret it. perhaps day 291 of 2019? the GB/EU manual says: on a european parts shop, i found a picture of the underside of the main "traffic light" control valve: if you look very carefully, you can see it's stamped 75 kPa which references "Setting 2". the printed USA manual that came with my cooker says: curiously, the underside of my control valve is stamped 60 kPa: this suggests that my valve's high setting is probably: Setting 2: 60 kPa, 113°C (8.70 psi, 236°F) which disagrees with the manual provided. maybe someone will find this interesting. ok, and now for the million dollar question: should i actually care that my shiny new pressure cooker only goes to 60 kPa / 8.7 psi (or if the manual is correct, 50 kPa / 7.25 psi)? does food really take that much longer to cook? conversely, could the lower temperature actually be a good thing (degrades delicate volatiles less)? i guess i could always order a spare 75 kPa valve from europe if i really want.
  24. i got my fissler stuff. haven't used it yet, but it looks very nice! ^ btw, the handle swap was a success.
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