cabrales

I had a good (by US standards), rather mundane, meal at Masa's last night. I took in the special V-day menu solo at the attractive bar area. There was a certain lack of eventfulness to the meal, although the decor and the "atmospherics" of the restaurant were very much to my liking. The cuisine at Masa's is considerably less appealing under Siegel (spelling?) than previously under Serrano, although I have only eaten once (last night) at Masa's under Siegel. Gorgeous decor, with high ceilings being highlighted by a thin white curtain leading into the dining room. The bar area, with four seats, is situated before the partition represented by the curtain. Inside, a medium-reddish set of large lamps suspended from the ceiling. Sculptures representing persons in a copper/bronze-color -- very modern -- adorn the upper reaches of certain columns towards the middle of the dining area. Each table had a "short" vase with clipped roses, running from white to a blush pink in gradations of evocative color. I had a little vase by me too, and the "refreshing" scent of the white/blush roses pleased. The decor has improved from that in the restaurant under Serrano. The bar was adorned with a large vase of medium pink cherry-flower-like blossoms (?). The bar stools had backs, and were of a plush white-leather-type material. For Valentine's Day, Masa was offering couples different dishes for each person. As I was dining solo, I got to choose for each course between the two selections available that evenings. The V-Day menu was priced more highly, I suspect. Chilled Salsify Veloute. Hog Island Oyster, Osetra Caviar, Leeks. Taken with glass of Krug. Crab Salad. Citrus Segments, AVocado, Page Mandarin Gelee Butter Poached Maine Lobster. Sunchoke Puree and Black Truffle Sauce Taken with a glass of Montaigny. California Quail. Crispy Sweetbreads and Romaine Hearts Taken with 1/2 bottle Chateauneuf du Pape, Vieux Telegraphe 2000 (under $50) Beef Rib-Eye Medallion. Black Truffle and Bone Marrow Croquette, Wild Mushroom Risotto. Pear Sorbet. Pomegranate Gelee. Taken with a glass of Chenin Blanc dessert wine version. Warm Apple Charlotte. Crispy Brioche Crust, Ginger Ice Cream.

vserna -- Below is a link to my take on Zuberoa: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...ST&f=38&t=12115 Also note that I do not purport to understand restaurants in Spain. Some of my questions in this thread have literally been questions grounded in ignornace.

lizziee-- Definitely not, with respect to becoming a regular. Yes, with respect to having the upcoming FL reservation. I do not have the private reservations telephone number, nor do I have any special techniques. -- I call at times *other than the morning rush*. I usually get through in less than 10 minutes. This is impracticable for diners who might need to plan ahead and to know they have reservations before planning a trip to the region. I call trying to secure cancelled reservations, in the cases I have been successful. -- I call many times a week (e.g., two times a day). I get the impression that being placed on the regular wait list is not a helpful means of securing reservations. One has to call. -- I search Opentable.com for any cancelled reservations every day. I search for both tables for 2 and 4. I search lunch as well as dinner reservations for Saturday and Sunday, when I am available to take in lunch there. -- I was told that calling about 2 days before an intended visit appears the best way to secure cancelled reservations. My own experience has been that one can call ahead more than 2 days ahead of the intended date for cancelled reservations. -- It helps to show flexibility. "I would be grateful for any dinner in the next two months, for the 9:30 seating". Good telephone "demeanor" (e.g., clear, concise descriptions, good vocabulary) can only help, if it is relevant at all.

Mike --- No.

robert -- I would if I could...

On Aqua pre-arrival of Laurent, the restaurant is continuing Mina's recipes. In particular, one recent occasion menu was described to me as reflecting Mina's dishes. Interestingly, one can see various French Laundry influences: Duet of West Coast Oysters -- Classic Rockelfller, Champagne Tapioca (although FL's "oysters and pearls" probably did not contain champagne -- I'll check later -- the utilization of tapioca with oysters at Aqua likely has some FL inspiraton) Cauliflower Soup, Lemon Infusion, Beluga Caviar -- This might or might not be inspired by the cauliflower panna cotta with osetra caviar at FL Dungeness Crab Tortellini, Braised baby artichokes, shellfish brown butter Crispy Skin Black Bass, Butter Poached Main Lobster, Melted Leeks, Golden Chanterelles (the inclusion of Butter Poached lobster is again an FL influence) Herb Roasted Tenderloin of Beef, Truffled Root Vegetable, Bacon-Wrapped Scallop, Celeriac Puree Scharffen Berge Chocolate Souffle, Tahitian vanilla-infused Kumquat parfait $125/person

There is no charge for the "tap" water, even though it is referred to more nicely as water from Aubrac or something like that. (Matthew -- As you know, Aubrac is the region where Bras' facility is.) The water arrives in a clear pitcher.

Below is a description of a related, but different event. Could members advise on why 1983 Chateau Margaux is highlighted to be poured during the Grand Finale dinner and not included in the previously-described Margaux tasting? "Grande Finalé dinner 6:30 pm 350.00 The Grand Finalé dinner begins with a Champagne Krug reception complemented with hors d’oeuvres by Douglas Rodriguez of Chicama in New York [dated information]... Creating the Dinner will be Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin in New York... and Gary Danko of Gary Danko in San Francisco... and Laurent Gras of the 5th Floor in San Francisco ... Todd English .... The entree will be created by Rick Edge of Pacific’s Edge, Highlands Inn, Park Hyatt Carmel. ... Reserve and library wines to accompany the dinner include Château Margaux Pavillon Blanc, introduced by Paul Pontallier, Domaine Faiveley, presented by Francois Faiveley, Maison Louis Jadot, featured by Pierre-Henri Gagey [vintages not indicated -- likely young]. The fourth course will feature the wines of Spain with Bodega Vega De Toro, S.L., introduced by Jorge Ordonez. Mr. Paul Pontallier will introduce a **1983 Château Margaux**. And for our finalé dessert we will introduce Alois Kracher, Jr. and his Kracher wines. Black tie is recommended for this event!"

I was seated in the "front row" (right in front of the expanse of window frontage) of the restaurant with an unobstructed view of the local landscape. I wonder whether having purchased a room assists with respect to getting a "front row" table, and whether it would be impolite to ask for one without having purchased a room? In either case, you might wish to consider asking for a table that is "next to, in front of the window". Note, if you are interested in conserving money, there is definitely no problem at this particular restaurant with drinking tap water (I recall the water is referred to as water of Aubrac and might even be brought fairly early on to the table). I thought the coulant was disappointing, after sampling three different ones. However, it is a signature M Bras dessert and thought could be given to sampling it. It is frequently included in the tasting menus. The gargouile (spelling) is a vegetable composition for which Bras is also known.

mesquin -- I believe so, with respect to both trying them and having heard of them. My preferred restaurant in the UK is Gordon Ramsay RHR, but I do not believe I have written in a detailed manner about it. http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...la+tante+claire (March 2002 -- sadly too, my last visit to LTC) http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST&f=9&t=6316 (Basildog's) http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST&f=9&t=6072 (Petrus) http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST&f=9&t=6974 (Waterside Inn)

vmilor -- Could you consider discussing the "Japanese" effects you mentioned?

The commentary was very nice. Sometimes, even for two and three stars, too much of the short commentary is devoted to decor. In Basildog's case, there was a lot on food and nice things were said. 1. Commentary for Stein was not necessarily better: -- The Seafood (is that the official name of that facility?): "Bold artwork and a buzz of enthusiasm animate Rick Stein's converted granary and conservatory. *Flavourful* Cornish seafood. Stylish rooms in a cool modern palette." There is mention only of "flavorful" seafood. Basildog had that, and more. His description is much better than if Michelin had said "artwork was..." -- St Petroc's: "On a steep hill above the town centre, a handsome white-fronted house with individually decorated rooms, full of stylish touches. Privately run with smooth professionalism." Although professional running could arguably encompass the cuisine, it is not specific to it. -- Rick Stein's Cafe: "Tucked away on one of Padstow's side streets. Good quality furniture and a classic, traditional style of décor throughout. Well-appointed bedrooms." No mention of cuisine at all. 2. Even the one-starred Ripley's (note I have never eaten there) in the general vicinity only garnered this comment: "A feeling of real quality prevails: exposed beams and brickwork, stone-topped bar, intimate welcome. *Uses the best of Cornwall's ingredients*". Note the emphasis on decor, even for a one-starred restaurant. Basildog was noted as having the "finest" ingredients. 3. Other Padstow area restaurants do not have as nice commentary as Basildog: -- Pescadou: "Bustling, glass fronted extension to Old Custom House, with characterful quayside setting. Open-plan kitchen adds to atmosphere. Rustic style menus with seafood emphasis." Here, the third sentence refers to the cuisine, but it merely notes the seafood emphasis (no kidding -- given we're in Padstow ) and "rustic style menus" -- The Metropole hotel's dining facilities: No verbal description. -- Tresglos: "Smart attire the code in very comfortable dining room." Again, no mention of the food. I have listed above all the restaurants in Padstow according to the Michelin website. The *relative* (relative to geographically proximate venues) favorableness of the commentary received by Basildog has, I hope, been demonstrated too. Note those knife and fork symbols are not generally viewed as food ratings. Michelin only has four food-specific ratings: the three levels of stars and Bib Gourmand (referring to good value for money or something akin to that). *Inclusion* in the Guide itself signifies Michelin considers the restaurant appropriate for diners to consider. I don't have any Michelins with me currently, but the knife and fork symbols signify comfort level (meaning decor, etc.) of the restaurant, I vaguely recall. Congrats -- Basildog

For chefg -- 17. Note-Keeping on Recipes Your posts suggest a wonderfully deliberate and methodical approach to analyzing issues. Is that consistent with Chef Achatz's approach to the creation of new dishes? For example, are notes kept by the chef or other cuisiniers on food combinations experimented with in the past? When a taste combination is deemed inappropriate, are the reasons for that conclusion documented somewhere for future reference? (And have you reviewed the two published notebooks of Michel Bras?) 18. Winemaker Experience The Trio website contains the following statement: "While in Napa, Achatz also spent a year as assistant winemaker at the La Jota Vineyards." How has a heightened sensitivity to wine aided Chef Achatz in his creation of dishes, apart from (a) potential alertness to the aromas (to be clear, smell sensations) of a dish (e.g., rosemary vapour), and (b) facilitating his participation in the pairing of dishes and wine? Has the wine experience led the chef to consider the utilization of "blended"/more complex aromas for his dishes? Has the experience caused the chef to give added attention to the "finish" of a dish? How active is Chef Achatz in the pairing of food and wine at Trio? What are some of the "special bottles" (not necessarily in terms of price) on the wine list of Trio, from the perspective of the restaurant? 19. Kitchen Table The Trio website notes: "KITCHEN TABLE: A behind-the-scenes table for four is available for reservation ($125/$175)" Could you (or members who have had a meal at the kitchen table) describe whether the menu is a surprise menu, and discuss other relevant aspects of the kitchen table experience? Do you perceive any disadvantages to being seated at the kitchen table?

southern girl -- Apologies I wasn't clear before. By strength, I meant culinary merit of the dish.

A subquestion to lizziee's inquiry: Do other members have views on whether the second meat course in the chef's tasting (i.e., before the cheese) tends to be weaker or stronger than the first meat course in the progression?

Other FL information: -- The Oregonian, January 2, 2001, Interview of Keller: "Q: I hear it's difficult to get a seat at the French Laundry. Is this true? A: If you got on the phone today, you'd be making a reservation for two months from today. [He doesn't charge a deposit, but doesn't think it's a bad idea.] You go to New York, you want to see "Miss Saigon," you buy your tickets, you don't show, you don't get your money back. Why should it be any different with a restaurant? ... We spend a lot of energy and manpower to man the telephones. We handle 300 calls a day. That doesn't count the number of people who call and never get through. We have a $50,000 phone system, open 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., with three reservationists. If I hired more reservationists, got more phone system in there, what would I be accomplishing? I'd be encumbering my restaurant. To do what? To say no? I only have 60 seats, we do 85 customers a night." [interesting -- that suggests that only the earlier seated tables are turned, consistent with my observations that diners are deliberately staggered with respect to reservations times] -- Nations' Restaurant News, May 1999: "'We have two reservation lines, one reservation book and 62 seats,' Cunningham explains. 'We get 350 calls a day [for reservations] and probably aggravate another 500 people who try to call and can't get through," she says. ... To ease the reservation problem, Cunningham and her staff encourage customers to call on the night they wish to dine."

By the way, why is camembert so difficult to pair?

On the trek "upstairs", as southern girl knows, there are in fact at least two washrooms upstairs. To mimize time away from the table, members should note that not only is there a single (unisex) washroom to the right when one has ascended the stairway (it will be obvious), but there is one much further from the stairway, and hidden from view when one is at the top of the stairs. It is almost "adjacent" to the visible washroom, but only accessible when one "goes around" and passes certain tables.

Perhaps an obvious point, but I will make it. Diners interested in cancellations are not necessarily better off calling during this "new 2-month reservations rush" (during which diners with existing reservations interested in cancelling would presumably know not to call or would fail to get through with some likelihood), as opposed to later on in the day. All my successes with cancelled reservations were not based on 9:30/10:00 am calls.

Beachfan -- No scintilla of anything relating to apology. Here are some of Senderens' thoughts: http://www.lucascarton.com/harmonies11.htm -- "Senderens, who more than two decades ago caused an uproar by proclaiming that white wine should be served with cheese. ... 'Some people are interested in painting, others in literature. Why can't food be analysed in the same way as colours in a painting? The table is an art of living where each element needs to be spelled out,' he said. [My kind of chef]But perfection at times is difficult to come by and Senderens admits to failing to find the perfect marriage of a food and of a wine where camembert from Normandy is concerned. Red wine with that cheese is simply 'revolting' and his only suggestions so far are **calvados, ciders,** 'nothing that is quite right'." http://iafrica.com/highlife/kitchenlife/fe...ures/172607.htm -- "'In the early 1970s, I put together a cheese plate and served it with only white wines. I was assassinated by the press! But I persevered, and now white wines with many cheeses are universally accepted.'" http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Archives...75,1906,00.html (a wonderful, but dated, article on French three-stars) Note I don't particularly like Camembert, so have almost no experience on the pairing of that cheese with wine.

jordyn -- Did you succeed last year, and how much time each day you attempted did you on average spend on calling? Given that reservations begin at 10:00, what happens when one calls at 9:30? I seem to get busy signals even then.

Andy -- Thank-you

The two sets (VIP and non-VIP) of GD experiences confirms GD is a professional, well-run restaurant. Stone and I were very content. He noted he would return; I share that sentiment. I felt like we took in a special dinner, and received very good service from the dining room team. Yet the restaurant was still able to "up" its level/treatment for certain other diners.

marcus -- Senderens received considerable criticism a number of years ago by indicating that white wine went well with certain cheeses. He still hasn't figured out what wine to go with a certain cheese (I believe Camembert?).

vserna -- Could you discuss Berasategui's Basque roots and how those are manifested in his cuisine (apart from using Basque ingredients, given the availability of top ingredients to restaurants at this level)? Also, I am not knowledgeable about Basque cuisine -- could you provide some information on that as well? Your point that Adria is not Spanish (or French) tends to support the position that this Spanish three-star-chef does not ground his cuisine in regional Spanish cuisine -- which is the point I was supporting. You mention trends. I find that analysis not to be dispositive. For example, a person with 1 M&M has more M&Ms when she gets one more M&M. However, another person that had 100 M&Ms (not that that is the discrepancy with respect to the restaurants) might be on a "downward" trend by losing two M&Ms.