Florida Jim
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Its pasta and mushrooms night so I zip across town for a bottle I want Diane to try. I had the 2005 Filipa Pato, Beiras Ensaios recently at a bar-b-q and thought it much better than its $15 price tag. So Diane now gets to try this Portuguese blend of touriga national, alfrocherio preto and baga that runs 14% and is imported by Eric Solomon. Popped and poured it’s got an earthy, alluring nose with a solid fruit component and a bit of complexity. In the mouth there’s ripe fruit, mostly in the black fruit spectrum, some smoke, earth, tannin and spice – all holding on nice balanced and texturally easy to drink level that makes this wine work well with the food and equally well on its own.
I’m thinking it might even gain a bit with some cellar time but right now it has good character and a sense of itself. I like it.
More than I expected and, even better, Diane likes it.
Best, Jim
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One evening I opened a 2001 Joseph Phelps, Syrah; I have found the regular cabernets from this house to be one of the few CA cabs. worth keeping (well, maybe a few more but Phelps has done me well through the years . . .). I have no use for the Insignia proprietary blend from Phelps but then, I can’t afford them anyway.
Well this is lousy; it’s full of chocolate covered blueberries and hasn’t the faintest resemblance to anything that I enjoy about syrah; no pepper, no olive, no complexity, nothing worth having unless your neighbor is coming over and she loves milk shakes.
This saddens me; I know its Napa and I know they are trying for the mass market but I have become intensely interested in CA syrah of late and this is just a bad example, IMO.
Another night we tried the 2006 Anselmi, San Vincenzo, a pretty little blend from the Soave region. It’s pleasant if not all that arresting and it seems to do well with food. But it really isn’t making me wish for more – which other Anselmi wines do.
Then there was a bottle of 2006 Perrin, Côtes du Rhône, Reserve which cost all of $10 and was so charming and graceful with fresh swordfish that I vowed to remember the pairing. And I’ve got a bottle of their ’05 CdR, Villages for another time – I’m looking forward to that.
A bottle of 2005 Sebastiani, Chardonnay was of little merit; more about vanilla and over-ripe fruit than about anything to do with soil and sun.
The 2006 Arigoles Costamolino, Vermentino is utterly crystalline; it dances in the mouth and barely pays any homage to resin on the nose (I’ve found more than a few vermentino a little too resinous for me). $11 couldn’t be better spent.
A 2005 Bossard, Muscadet Garnite smelled like bleach (and not in a good way) for the first hour it was open; then it got back to being its mineral infused, diamond drill-bit, laser-like self but I don’t think I’ll open another of these for a decade or so. Not my best experience with it.
And these days, it seems I can’t write notes without another comment (and another bottle) of the 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet, Semper-Ecelsior which is just about the best damn white wine I have tasted (repeatedly) over the last year. To think that $20 buys this when, at ten times the tariff, most white Burgundy underachieves. Truly, a special wine.
‘Not taking notes the way I used to, just writing impressions after the fact.
‘So sorry . . .
Best, Jim
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Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, Château Cheval Blanc 1983 (from Imperial)
Lovely, developed Cabernet Franc driven nose, with sweet red currant fruit dancing with loamy, decaying leaves. Very supple, with elegant, restrained tannins. Lots of bottle bouquet and drinking perfectly, helped along no doubt by the super-sized format.
Pessac-Léognan, Château La Mission Haut Brion 1989
As tightly wound and ungiving as 18 year-old wine gets. Muted aromatics are clearly of Left Bank cab, with a gravelly, sinewy black cassis and graphite profile. But this is still as clamped down as a closed bear trap. A decent foil to the beef course with which it was paired but, compared to the rest of the wines of the evening, nowhere ready to drink. Maybe it will be interesting in another 18 years but its total reticence now makes me wonder.
Two wines that take me back.
The Cheval I tasted was from 750 but it was no less memorable.
The La Mission was from magnum (6x) and it remains a wine of unrealized potential, at least in my mind. And, eveidently, in yours.
Both wines I was pleased to have a chance at.
Best, Jim
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To anyone who isn’t living in a cave, it is perfectly obvious that a recession is upon us. So we shall wring our hands, certain financial types will jump out of windows and more than a few of us will consider the merits of food stamps.
Be that as it may, I am delighted to report that Southern Wine and Spirits (a/k/a the ‘evil empire’) and other assorted wholesalers in my politically challenged state are experiencing business set-backs at an unprecedented rate. I am hearing things like “down 20%” and “ready to deal” and the like from retailers everywhere.
Even better, the local chain of Wine Warehouses is receiving stock that they can turn at single digit prices; it is a great new world for wine buying consumers. Or at least, we’re getting our shots.
To that end, I have purchased several bottles at world record low prices just to see if they are really as bad as they sound.
2006 A. Mano, Fiano/Greco Bianco Puglia:
Half and half, fiano and greco this smells of grapefruit pith and lemon zest, tastes about the same with a distinctly sour edge and considerably acidity, and finishes pretty sharp. Not something I would want to drink again but I bet this would be a good cooking wine (acidity to burn, if you will). 12.5% alcohol, imported by Empson, Inc. and about $6; not again.
2003 Coppo, Gavi La Rocca:
Smells a bit like good Soave and seems similar in the mouth but carries a resinous quality well and has good depth and balance; medium length, clean finish. More golden in color than expected but no oxidation noticed so I suppose it’s due to the vintage. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Locascio and about $2 (how the hell they pay for the bottle, cork and label I haven’t the faintest); I’ll buy more.
2004 Bodegas Marqués de Carrión, Rioja Antaño:
Smells earthy and looks like it has more age on it then it does; but in the mouth it’s dirty – not organically flawed (at least not such that I can tell) but not especially pleasant either; short finish. Maybe it got cooked or maybe it’s just not good wine; although, it’s a lot better with food than without. 13.5% alcohol, imported by CIV and about $3; not again.
2006 René Barbier, Penedès:
100% tempranillo (as was the preceding wine) this is much more characteristic of the variety, lively, in your face fruit, disjointed and rustic but in a youthful way rather than a winemaking-mistake way; solid structure, decent depth and a medium length finish. Exuberant wine with a touch of country rusticity; good now and I’m guessing, better later. 13% alcohol, imported by Freixenet and about $4; I’ll buy more.
In the “what the hell is going on here” category, I had the chance to try two 2005 Vincant Girardin wines. This is a producer that I have studiously avoided ever since my run-in with the 1999, Les Amoureuses; a wine that should have sent me on flights of fantasy but instead, left me cursing the day I thought this guy had a clue; a house that has underachieved for quite some time; big wood, big yields and no sense of place.
But what’s this? Wines of character without artifice or over-wooding? Wines that taste like somebody actually cared about yields and brix and all that little stuff? I am shocked and amazed – pleasantly, as it so happens:
2005 Gevrey-Chambertin VV:
Shows like a barrel sample – raw-boned, in pieces and tannic – but what promise; beautiful earthen scents; strong flavors in the meaty/spicy end of pinot; it’s concentrated, intense, structured and very long. I’m thinking there must be some mistake – no hint of oak on the nose or on the palate and no drying on the finish. Good heavens; someone has figured out how to make wine – even better, Burgundy! It was about $48 and I bought one bottle to age. That price is almost off my radar screen but this kind of quality and promise made me refocus. Who’d a thunk?
2005 Beaune Les Greves:
Whole cloth, albeit young, and amazingly pure. Again, none of the woody faults of the past, none of the questionable yield dilution, none of the drying barrel treatment – focus and purity and really Beaune character. Porcine aviation! About $45 and, dare I say it, worth it!?
Other wines tasted recently include the 2005 Luneau-Papin Clos des Allées – a beautiful, but infant-like thing, 2005 Luneau-Papin, Pierre de la Grange VV – a bright and charming thing, 2002 Luneau-Papin, Semper Excelsior – the reason I don’t buy white Burgundy anymore, 2001 Sella, Lessona – yeah, maybe I should let it rest for several years but it tastes so damn good now . . ., 2005 Vissoux, Poncie – ‘sunshine’ in red wine form, 2005 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba – way too early to be drinking this, 2004 Tissot, Chardonnay – so much better than 99% of the chardonnays in the market as to be a no brainer, 2000 Chat, Cantalys, Pessac – needs a decade but still shows what good Graves can be, 2005 Montevertine, Pian del Ciampolo – pleasant but soft and not something I’d buy again, 2003 Puffeney, Arbois Poulsard – very structured but very good, 2005 Chignard, Fleurie – yum city, and, 2005 Breton, Chinon Beaumont – not to be missed. There were others but I’ve lost track.
So as we watch our stock portfolios set in the west and as our real estate becomes ‘unreal” I say to you, fugedaboudit! Go out and see what wonders recession has brought to a town near you.
And remember, its only money . . .
Best, Jim
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I just got back from a trip to the west coast. Brought home enough flu for both Diane and I but still had a good time.
Several items of interest:
Caparone is a 3,000 cases winery in the Paso area specializing in Italian varietals, although they also make cabernet sauvignon (fair), merlot (pretty green) and zinfandel (quaffable and 13.4% alcohol. Their nebbiolo was varietally correct, under 14% but showed a little VA; even so, I liked it. Their aglianico was also under 14% and showed the tannins typical of the grape. Best was their sangiovese which was about 13.5%, beautifully textured and typical of a Rosso di Montacino. All their wines were $14/bottle; 10% off for 6; 20% off for a case. Worth a taste.
I tasted the components of the 2006 Bevan Cellars, syrah and they show great promise. Much of the fruit is sourced from the Westerhold Vineyard in Bennett Valley. That fruit will go exclusively to Westerhold Family Vineyards wine starting in the 2007 vintage; 100% Alban clone syrah. IMO, this vineyard has a distinctive signature, both aromatically and in the mouth, and is planted with the grape best suited to let that show through in the wine. One to watch.
For those who enjoy big cabernets, the coming vintages from Bevan Cellars and Showket Vineyards (where Russell Bevan is now winemaker) are not to be missed.
The 2007 Dry Stack Vineyards (which will be renamed Grey Stack – thank the good folks at Dry Sack Sherry for that one) will be comparable to the 2006 in texture but will carry more citrus and grapefruit skin flavor. A dandy.
I visited a winery in the Paso area that charged $10 to taste three wines, all of which were 15.8% alcohol or more and one of which, a blend containing mostly grenache and zinfandel, cost $68 a bottle. Even though I like folks that are proud of their wines, this was patently absurd. And the wines were just as hot as you’d expect. Who buys this stuff?
And who puts up with this kind of arrogance? Not me.
I’m sure I’ve mentioned that I made a barrel of syrah last year; this trip gave us our first chance to taste it after being in barrel. I was pleased and hope it continues to come together – hopefully, another pretty Bennett Valley syrah.
Even with heavy rain, gale force winds and a sinus infection, a trip to CA wine country is always instructive. Thanks to all who were so kind to us.
Best, Jim
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Diane and I celebrated our 23rd anniversary (February 14) as we often do, at the beach for sunset. This time we went back to the very spot we met some 25 years ago.
Sometimes we’ll take pizza with us and picnic but, this time, it was chilly so we got some on the way back home. We had to open three bottles to get one we liked but our mood was such, it really didn’t matter.
Happy Valentine’s you all.
2001 Palazzola, Rubino:
I had tried a bottle of this a week or so a go and it was decent so I tried again - entirely different experience; smells like a freshly sawn dill pickle barrel; tastes similar with a thinness to the fruit and a short finish. I have no idea why the wide variation but I’ll not try this again – this is much more the Cotarella type wine I remember. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Locascio and about $17; DNPIM.
2004 Terres Dorées, Côte de Brouilly:
Always a stemmy wine, this now smells of dill and stewed jalapeño (not in a good way) and tastes so bad I spit it out. I did not notice any bacterial type smells or flavors but I suppose it’s possible it’s a bad bottle. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $20; DNPIM.
2000 Château Cantelys, Pessac-Léognan:
Opens gradually to poop, blackberry, cassis, stone and smoke – complex and inviting nose; rich and full bodied in the mouth with flavors that echo the nose (sans poop), grip, concentration and length. Could use some time in the cellar as it’s just a touch rustic but what a nice wine. 13% alcohol, imported by Prestige Château and about $23; I bought all they had.
Best, Jim
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2005 Dom. Chignard, Fleurie Les Moriers:
A remarkable experience, drinking this wine now; my impression is that it has the structure, balance and fruit concentration to outlive me, that it is of its place only “more so” then one would expect and that even with all that character and power, it is a beautiful wine with roasted chicken tonight. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $21 on release; I really wish I’d bought more.
1996 Hirtzberger, Riesling Singerriedel:
This is a very potent, angular and concentrated wine that needs strongly flavored food. But more than anything (at least right now) this wine is about length. I have nothing to compare it to – it just goes on and on and the flavors seem to grow in the mouth after swallowing. Not for everyone but this is one of the reasons I love wine; a unique bottle with immense character. 13% alcohol, imported by Vin Davino (then) and about $46 on sale; my last bottle – too bad current versions of this are so damnably expensive.
2005 Château Lascaux, Bordeaux Superieur:
From vines that are 35-40 years old, this is 60% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 20% cabernet sauvignon aged 18 months in barrel, 1/3 of which are new. It smells like Bordeaux - cabernet based wine that carries some earth, leather and mineral scents; it tastes like Bordeaux – with full bodied fruit, a tannic grip, good density and concentration and a nicely balanced delivery with a somewhat worsted textured; and, it has a medium length, tannic finish. With food, the tannins are less intrusive and the depth of wine is evident.
Much the same on day two, with a little more earthiness, a bit more integration and a somewhat less tannic finish. Could certainly stand some time in the cellar (the website recommends 6-12 years).
13% alcohol, imported by Stacole and about $14; a very good wine among quite a few very nice 2005 Bordeaux bargains. Makes me wonder why I would bother to buy/drink domestic cabernets?
2001 Sella, Lessona:
Mostly nebbiolo, this is from a cooler region than Barolo or Barbaresco; it carries aromatic complexity; elegance on the palate and is reminiscent of roses and asphalt on both. An exquisite wine. 13% alcohol, imported by Selected Wines of Europe and about $26; I bought a lot.
Best, Jim
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2005 Kim Crawford, Unoaked Chardonnay:
Smells sweet but has pleasant chardonnay fruit scents; is way too sweet on the palate with a cloying, canned pears syrup type of delivery and bears very little resemblance to wine. Very odd stuff considering I have found other vintages of this at least tolerable. 13% alcohol, imported by Vincor USA and price unknown; I wouldn’t buy it at any price.
2006 Edmunds St. John, Gamay Rosé Bone Jolly:
I think this is getting darker color as it ages; wonderful strawberry/raspberry scents with a vinous note and some mineral; much the same in the mouth with a juicy snap of acidity. ‘Half way through my second case and loving it.
13.2% alcohol and about $17; charming stuff.
Diane took spaghetti squash, used it as pasta and topped with a porcini, tomato reduction ragout and served it with crusty bread. To accompany, we tasted two really fine wines:
2004 Puffeney, Trousseau Les Bérangères:
Quite aromatic and complex on the nose; lots of black and red fruit flavors with earthy, stony, smoky nuance, good acidity, excellent concentration and considerable grip; tannic finish. The tannins seemed to melt away with the dish and the earthy nature of the wine came to the forefront. An exceptional wine and a symbiotic pairing. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $28; I believe it is worth the price but that is right at the limit I would spend.
2005 Philippe Faury, St. Joseph:
Smells like young Hermitage, is extremely complex with its leather, olive, meat and garrique elements complimenting supple fruit flavors, has a satin texture, is round in the mouth and finishes long and detailed. Quite a wine that is complete and approachable now but certainly has the ability to develop over time. 12.8% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $25; I’m going back for more.
Best, Jim
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2000 Château La Louvière, Pessac-Léognan:
After a while open, this has the poop, leather, tobacco, mineral notes that are indicative of its origins but it is also rich, velvety textured and dense without being weighty, fruit driven and supple with a medium length but fairly full finish. A very nice bottle right now after it gets a little air. 13.5% alcohol, importer unknown and about $37; I’ll buy it again.
2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées:
With tuna tartare on endive; lyrical wine – fresh, clean, crisp, scented and long. As they do most every year, this house has made one of the best Muscadet of the vintage. Superb with the dish. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $13; I bought a lot.
2005 Orin Swift, The Prisoner:
Jammy, alcoholic, raisined and diffuse by itself, this became spicy and filled with berries when served with a spaghetti squash casserole that included porcini, gruyere and a tomato reduction sauce. Not a wine I’d buy but I enjoyed it with the dish. 15.2% alcohol, price about $40; I’d not buy it.
2004 Saintsbury, Pinot Noir Brown Ranch – Carolina Cuvée:
Smells of chocolate and black fruit; rich in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, smooth texture, hidden structure and some heat; medium length finish. Not typical of the variety and a touch too hot but very good with food and better than I would ever have expected. 14.5% alcohol and price unknown: thanks Allan.
2005 Luneau-Papiun, Muscadet Dom. Pierre de La Grange VV:
Aromas of lemons, white fruit, steel and flowers; crisp and juicy in the mouth with good depth and intensity, perfect balance and excellent complexity; very long. Another resounding success from this producer and it certainly has a shelf life. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $8 by the case; one of the best QPR wines I know of.
Best, Jim
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2004 Domaine du Cros, Marcillac:
Made from a grape called fer servadou (a/k/a fer or masois or pineac or brocol) in an AOC in southwest France, this is a character driven, smoky, spicy red wine with structure, rusticity and a little too much green bell pepper for me. With a bit less green, this would be really fascinating stuff.
(I don’t know if the “green” is a result of vintage, AOC or producer so I will probably try a riper vintage of the same wine when it comes available.)
Day two: So much less green that it is now just a faint accent – not unlike good Chinon – and so much more vivid and bright. A very interesting wine. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Wine Traditions and about $13; maybe again.
1999 Nigl, Grüner Veltliner Privat:
Solid GV with a slightly fruit-sweet edge in the absence of food; with some four cheese ravioli with sun-dried tomato pesto this lost its sweet edge and became deeper, complex and a complete wine. Truly a bottle that blossoms with food.
Day two: the sweetness is gone and it’s taken on weight and cut; this is really dandy juice.
13.5% alcohol, imported by Skurnik and about $23 on release; (sigh) were that it cost that today.
2001 Bouchard Père & Fils, Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot:
Way too oaky when first opened – wood that kills the nose, chokes the mid-palate and dries the finish – and then, the miracle happens (after about an hour open); the oak diminishes on the nose and lets through black fruit and stone aromas, the palate opens up and gains depth and density, and, the finish lengthens and becomes juicy. I have no idea how this metamorphosis occurs but was delighted to have the wine with grilled duck breast once it changed. Probably needs five years in the cellar or a good bit of time in the decanter. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Cliquot and about $25, on release; I got plenty.
2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Semper Excelsior:
Deep, rich and dense are not words usually used to describe Muscadet but this is not your usual Muscadet (an extra year on the lees and fruit from vines grown entirely in schist); remarkable concentration yet this wine has good cut, is full of life and verve, and fills the mouth as few white wines do. For those who have tasted both, I preferred this to the 2005 Pepiere, Granite de Clisson, although I admit that I have had the Clisson only once and that it is a newer vintage – who knows what it will become? 12.5% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $20; quite simply one of the best white wines I have tasted at any price.
Best, Jim
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Sadly, many folks lose sight of this and focus more on the geeky aspect of wine.
Having been one of those awhile ago, I will not throw stones.
But I'm better now.
Best, Jim
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In any case, I haven't laughed that much in a long time, and it felt good to be able to share some nice wines with good friends. Isn't that what this passion of ours is supposed to be about?
Yes.
A good read.
Best, Jim
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Dinner with friends:
Crackers and robiola cheese:
2005 Sumarroca, Cava Brut:
Lovely wine with just enough flavor to have a personality but not so much as to diminish the cleansing effect of the bubbles. 11.5% alcohol, imported by Frontier Wines and about $12; I’ll buy it again.
Salad of roasted beets, arugula, ricotta salada and walnuts:
More of the Cava
Pasta with a purée of almonds and fresh tomatoes:
2005 Tete, Juliénas:
Decanted two hours; open and generous with berries and mineral scents; good depth, flavors that echo the nose and a beautiful, supple texture; excellent length. A very fine wine with years ahead of it. 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $18 on release; stealing at the price.
Broiled swordfish with roasted fennel, onions, olives and red peppers:
2004 Tissot, Chardonnay:
Decanted two hours; needed the air to open up and show perfect chardonnay scents and flavors with a mineral edge and enough cut to etch its flavors against the richness of the fish. A world record pairing. 13% alcohol, imported by Potomac Imports and about $23; very, very worth it.
After dinner with more crackers and cheese:
2001 Palazzola, Rubino:
70% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot; restrained but penetrating aromas of berries, cassis and spice; elegant in the mouth but with powerful flavors that follow the nose, seamless and integrated but with good acidity and a long finish. The best thing about this wine was what was absent; little oak, no candied flavors, no over-extraction; it tasted like real wine. I remember Rubinos from the mid-90’s being far more over the top than this . . . and a lot more expensive. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Locascio and about $17; I’ll buy more (and I never thought I’d say that).
Best, Jim
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2002 Tenuta della Terra Nere, Etna Rosso Vigneto Guardiola:
Having recently had the 2004 Calderara Sottana from this producer, I tried to compare the terroirs and vintages. I have read that nerello mascalese can add color and alcohol to blends and that, when made well, they can be long lived. This wine does not give me the impression of longevity being somewhat thin at mid-palate and a bit drying from tannin. Nonetheless, both have good flavors, some complexity and are pleasant drinking – I just don’t think the wine making style of this producer leads to wines for the long term.
So I will drink them and enjoy them near term; not such a bad thing as it seems I have too much wine that “needs time.” 14% alcohol, imported by Skurnik and about $25; vintages since 2002 have gone up in price so I will restrict my buying to the less expensive Calderara.
2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie:
Bottled poetry.
12.5% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; oh yeah!
2000 Château Cantelys, Pessac-Léognan:
Expansively aromatic with black fruit, graphite and earth scents; full in the mouth but not “big” with flavors that follow the nose, good depth and integration, some complexity and better than expected length. A really beautiful Graves that could sell for a whole lot more and it drinks well now. 70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% merlot. 13% alcohol, imported by Prestige Château and about $23; I bought all they had.
2004 Domaine Brana, Írouleguy Ohitza:
Spicy dark fruit nose with some earth tones; much the same in the mouth a slightly rustic although, for a wine that’s at least 50% tannat, it’s not near as tannic as I’d expect; medium length finish.
On day two this is more Côte du Rhône-ish with an earthy rusticity; more a pizza wine for my tastes.
13% alcohol, imported by Wine Traditions and about $14; I won’t buy more.
2004 Château Bellevue la Forêt, Côtes du Frontonais Ce Vin:
100% négrette, this is all about blueberries, dark fruit, unsweetened chocolate, laurel and stone – both on the nose and palate; vinous, grapey and structured with a slightly bitter finish.
On day two, it is far more integrated, complex and complete; a very nice wine that reminds me of ripe cabernet franc. Probably needs a few years in the cellar but shows nicely now when decanted well before service. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Wine Traditions and about $9; I’ll buy more.
2006 Drouhin, Chablis:
Pure, ripe Chablis; less fat than the 2005 but more classic in its cut and balance. Not just good chardonnay, good Chablis. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Dreyfus, Ashby and price unknown; I’d love to drink it again.
Best, Jim
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2006 Alesia, Pinot Noir Green Valley:
For both Diane and me, this wine was an unexpected treat. California is not our first language when it comes to pinot but this wine was easy to understand and delicious. Quintessential left-coast in style but almost no wood, no overworking, clean, clear flavors, some minerality and a very balanced delivery. Proportional is the word that comes to mind; everything in its place and well integrated. May need six months to a year to peak but really charming now. 14.1% alcohol and price unknown; I’d love to drink it again.
2005 Phiippe Faury, St. Joseph:
Attractive nose of fresh meat, olive and black fruit with light spice notes; round in the mouth but with good cut, flavors that echo the nose and a seamless delivery; medium length finish. Perhaps, my fourth bottle of this since release and every bit as good as the first.
On day two this is more fruit driven and open but less integrated; probably should be drunk within the next 5 years or so.
12.8% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $25; I’ll buy more.
2006 Viñedos de Nieva, Rueda Blanco Nieva:
100% verdejo this has aromas of apple, flowers, grapefruit skin and perm solution, the latter being a bit off-putting; concentrated and viscous in the mouth, the fruit flavors repeat, the perm solution note is gone but the wine seems ponderous (‘long time since I said that about a white) and the texture seems headed toward light syrup; medium finish. Re-corked and put in the fridge.
Day two: even ice cold this is very potent and full bodied with extremely powerful flavors – this may be a better wine with a couple years in the cellar but its hard to say right now; it just shows so raw. I like my Rueda a bit more elegant (ala Martinsancho) but this certainly has its place for those who want muscle and concentration. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Frontier Wine and about $12; probably not.
2005 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba:
An exuberant, unrefined, not yet integrated nebbiolo with good concentration, intensity and power. Lots of stuffing here but needs cellar time to mellow and round out; almost a barrel sample today. Compared to a recent 2001 version, this is more powerful but not near as complex. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Locascio and about $30; I bought a few.
2001 Sella, Lessona:
On the other hand, this mostly nebbiolo wine is very fine grained, balanced and complex with a nod toward traditional Barbaresco. Quite a contrast from the late-model Giacosa and very enjoyable. 13% alcohol, imported by Select Estates of Europe and about $27, worth it.
2004 Yalumba, Grenache Tricentenary Vines:
I tasted this before I read the label and quite enjoyed it – the label said “Australia, grenache, 14.5% and aged 10 months in French Oak hogsheads;” all things that, in most instances, would send me running – but this is the exception to the rule; it tastes more like syrah then grenache, doesn’t seem over-ripe, has some depth and character, its texture is more silk than milk-shake and it’s a more graceful then expected. This old dog learned a new trick. 14.5% alcohol, imported by Negociants U.S.A and price unknown; I’d enjoy drinking it again.
2004 Tissot, Chardonnay Arbois:
My “go to” white these days, this is all about the fruit and there are absolutely no oak, vanilla, cream or buttery notes noticeable. It’s got mineral elements, structure and a bit of earthiness but, God bless Stéphane Tissot, the fruit sings. 13% alcohol, imported by Potomac Selections and about $23; I bought loads. Viva la Jura!
Best, Jim
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Where did you get the Giasco Nebbiolo? I would like to try it. I love the grape in all its forms.
A local store in St. Petersburg, FL. They do not ship out of state.
But note the importer; if you ask one of your local retailers who carry wines from this importer, maybe they can get this wine, too.
Best, Jim
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2006 Bodegas Abad, Godello Dom Bueno:
Day one: Although varietally correct, this is sharp, resinous and a touch too bitter for me. Re-cork and try again.
Day two: more flesh and flavor but still bitter. Re-cork and try again.
Day three: about the same and just too sour for me.
13% alcohol, imported by Frontier Wines and about $10; no thanks.
Tomato, mozzarella and caper salad:
2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées VV:
Lovely, as always and good with the dish but gave the impression it was starting to close down. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $13; more than worth it.
Salmon cakes with rice, peas and mushrooms:
1998 Lafarge, Bourgogne:
Still a pretty grippy little wine but the fruit has more flesh then on release and the length is better. Good with the dish. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $15 on sale; I’d buy it again.
Vegetarian chili and salad:
2004 Puffeney, Arbois Trousseau Cuvée Les Bérangères:
Decanted one hour; smells of cherries, raspberries and earth; light-bodied but not thin with flavors that follow the nose, good grip and a long, slightly drying finish. The tannic grip melts away with the food and the flavors become more nuanced over time. A character driven wine and another compelling reason to try more wines from the Jura. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $28; worth it.
Leftover vegetarian chili:
2005 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Bassetti Vnyd.:
Blueberry, blackberry and spice notes right up front – then some black pepper, garrique, fresh meat and red fruit accents – expressive, alluring and of a piece; much the same in the mouth with a supple mouth feel, grip, good acidity, concentration, intensity and all in perfect harmony – swish it around in your mouth and there is not one rough edge – as beautifully integrated a young wine as I have encountered, perfectly balanced; long, expansive finish. Grand Cru quality and reminiscent of a ripe, young Hermitage; underlying power, both savory and sweet, yet grace and harmony before all else and not a hint of wood anywhere. I should live so long as to craft a wine like this and as good a syrah as the leftcoast makes. Has years ahead of it in the cellar and will take awhile to start showing its complexity; thankfully, I bought a case and will be able to follow it for several of those. 14.2% alcohol and about $45 on release; in today’s market, worth triple that.
Oh my!
Best, Jim
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Cheese and crackers:
1999 Juge, Cornas Cuvée SC:
Should anyone wish to know why syrah is my favorite grape, they need only consult exhibit “SC;” initially this has some char on the nose and some green but, as it opens, these elements fade into the warm red fruit compote, cured meat, olive and milk chocolate aspects of this wine to become merely an accent; smooth and supple in the mouth with a linen texture, flavors that follow the nose and develop into nuances, superb balance and a hint of grip; long, flavor-filled and integrated finish. Sublime; a sip of pleasing relief from a difficult day. 13% alcohol, imported by New France Wine Co. and about $40 a couple of months ago; I bought what I could and wish I’d bought everything they had.
Grilled chicken, stuffing and porcini gravy:
2005 Catherine & Pierre Breton, Chinon Beaumont:
A remarkably concentrated wine with rich berry smells accented with mint and earth; very deep and extracted but perfectly balanced with a lightening bolt of acidity etching all the flavors, almost grainy in texture yet still round in the mouth; and incredibly long. Another magnificent Chinon for 2005 and one that will reward cellaring. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $19; worth multiples of that.
Cheese and crackers:
2005 Steele, Pinot Blanc:
Clean, pleasant aromas of white fruit and butter; light-weight, soft, a little thin in the mouth and a bit short. Innocuous wine that should be drunk immediately. 13.5% alcohol and about $14; not for half that.
Potato and fennel gratin with grilled sausages:
2002 Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vieilles Vignes:
This has opened a good deal since release with lots of black fruit and berry smells and tastes, a solid earthy streak underlying and the texture of satin. A really good wine that is structured, balanced, just coming into its own and excellent with the meal. 13% alcohol, imported by Becky Wasserman and about $20; I bought a lot.
Chili and corn bread:
2002 Jacky Janodet, Moulin-à-Vent:
More reserved and polished than the Michaud but more approachable as well with solid fruit and earth tones, good integration and an impression of completeness. Pretty wine that was good with and without the food. 13% alcohol, imported by the Henry Wine Group and about $13 on release; I’d buy it again.
Best, Jim
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Marinated chick pea salad with EVOO dressed cottage cheese:
2006 Bodegas Valdesil, Godello Montenovo:
Apricot is the dominant theme here but the nose is punctuated with resin, honeycomb and stone elements while the palate accents its apricot nectar flavor with citrus and tonic water. Perhaps best of all, there is tension between the viscous character of the texture and the acidity that seems to brighten and lift the wine to a more interesting place. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $10; stealing at the price.
With vegetable hash:
2005 Jadot, Moulin-a-Vent Chateau des Jacques:
At present, a precise, tight Gevrey-esque wine – good with the meal but giving only a glimpse; the real value here is the future – if it goes where I think its going, this will be as profound an MaV as one could ask and a wine that more than lives up to its top billing as a Beaujolais cru Perhaps even more beguiling, is the distinct possibility that this will, with sufficient age (10+ years), resemble fine Burgundy. Good now; so much better later. 13% alcohol, imported by Kobrand and about $22; worth it.
Chicken and porcini on pasta:
2001 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba:
Decanted 4 hours; this is fuller, more aromatic and better integrated then when simply popped and poured; little secondary development yet but excellent complexity and a lovely texture; quite long in the mouth. Matched very well with the dish. 13% alcohol, imported by Locascio and about $20 on release; I bought a lot.
Smoked salmon spread and crackers:
2005 Dom. de L’Ecu, Muscadet Expression de Granite:
Day one: rock hard and tasting of spring water, lime, unripe pear and predominantly, minerals.
Day two with a turkey sandwich: expressive and nuanced nose of lime, mineral, unripe pineapple and pear and a smell something like the aroma you get standing right next to a fountain – negative ions?; smoothly textured and deep with flavors that echo the nose and carry both complexity and a sort of interlocking lusciousness with each other, bright acidity that is every bit as well integrated, perfect balance and a very long, precise, yet supple finish. God wine. 12% alcohol, imported by Chartrand and about $17; as good a QPR as there is on the planet.
Turkey and dressing:
1998 Vieux Télégraph, Châteauneuf-du-Pape:
Very funky aromas when opened – decanted two hours; much better then with salted meat and cherry smells; light bodied, flavors echo the nose, some garrigue, some grip; medium length finish. This was most impressive on release and has been shut down ever since; now, it is approachable, albeit straightforward and pleasant, but nothing that can’t be bought for $15 in Pic St. Loup and blown away for $25 in Faugères. 14% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $50 on release; ridiculously over-priced.
(If anybody wants my remaining bottles in trade, they have only to ask.)
Best, Jim
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At a tasting:
1991 Chat. Leoville Las Cases:
Evidently, the folks at this house can’t read vintage charts . . . it’s the rare moment when I get to try a top St. Julien at its peak (or at least, one of them) – this was it. Started out as a very compact laser of fruit and herb tones but over about two hours, it unfurled the ‘peacock’s tail’ I have so often heard of but never experienced. By the last sip, it was as complex and spherical as any Bordeaux I have ever tasted and showed no signs of fade. An absolutely sensational bottle of wine and one that I will remember a very long time. Bravo!
Also, at a tasting:
2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Semper Excelsior, and the 2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Dom. Pierre de La Grange. Two completely different renditions of the grape and both exceed all expectations.
The Excelsior reminds me of a fine white Burgundy; fuller and richer than most Muscadet with depth and cut and length. The La Grange is all about stones and flint but its fruit almost sparkles it’s so fresh. These are but two of the bottlings from this house and they tend to confirm my feeling that this is my favorite producer in Muscadet and one of the finest producers of white wine in the world. Always character driven and of exceptional quality, regardless of the cuvee or vineyard.
One afternoon:
2006 Edmunds St. John, Gamay Rosé Bone-Jolly:
Flavor-filled, crisp, juicy and longer than one expects of rosé, a lovely refreshment and a delicious drink. Just superb!
Best, Jim
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Leftover turkey meat loaf, mashed potatoes and mushroom gravy:
2006 Abad dom Bueno, Bierzo Joven:
This may be young vines mencia but this is good; very appealing nose of blackberry hard candy, earth and some red fruit hints; smooth and medium weight with a touch of grip, solid flavors that follow the nose, nice intensity and yet still supple; a medium length, clean finish. A new winery to me but one I‘ll keep an eye on. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Frontier Wines and about $12; I’ll buy more.
Excellent with the meal.
Chips, hummus and cheese:
2006 Dom. de la Fruitière, Muscadet Petit “M”:
Fresh, clean, varietally correct with ripeness and cut; everything a Muscadet should be if its ready to drink young – and this is. 12% alcohol, imported by Jon-David Hedrick and about $9; a great price.
Very good with the dish but even better without it.
With no food:
N/V Zardetto, Proseco Brut:
Way to easy to drink and I have learned to buy them two at a time because everyone wants more. Not fancy but just delicious. 11% alcohol, imported by Locascio and about $12; I’ll buy more.
With lobster risotto:
2006 J. Drouhin, Chablis:
Fragrant with apples, lemon, seashore and flowers; fleshy but good cut with similar flavors that add licorice at the end, lovely balance, good depth, and extremely long. Unmistakably Chablis, ready to drink now and more a premier cru in quality than a simple village wine. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Dreyfus Ashby and about $20; I’ll buy more.
Pasta with veggies, cheese, pine nuts and EVOO:
2005 Brunus, Montsant:
60% carignan, 35% grenache, 5% syrah; smoky, earthy, red fruit nose with spice accents, somewhat torrefied; rustic, big and somewhat alcoholic in the mouth but also ripe and deep with delicious, old-vine flavors that follow the nose, concentrated, grippy and intense; medium length. I’m not usually a fan of wines this big or from this region but this was better balanced then my description may indicate and had a visceral appeal. 14% alcohol, imported by Frontier Wines and about $20; I’d buy it again.
Good with the meal.
Best, Jim
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Pasta with zucchini and parmesan:
2005 Laurent Tribut, Chablis Côte de Léchet:
A very pretty, lightly floral, feminine yet somewhat closed premier cru Chablis that is less steely and austere then many 2005 cru wines these days. 13% alcohol, imported by Vineyard Brands and about $25 on release; I bought plenty.
Good with the meal.
Stir-fried veggies, rice noodles and marinated tofu:
2004 A. & M. Tissot, Traminer:
Reticent nose of lychee and spice; somewhat tight on the palate but it relaxed over a two hour period to show flavors that followed the nose, cream soda, ginger, citrus and stones, no RS, good cut and balance and medium length. Tongue-tingling, crisp juice with a cleansing action in the mouth and it gives the impression that it needs a few years in the cellar. 13% alcohol, Imported by Potomac Selections and about $21; nicely done.
Very good with the meal.
Roasted butternut squash, onions, olives and feta with pasta:
2002 Barthod, Bourgogne Les Bon Bâtons:
Still showing very young but with a fleshy delivery and plenty of ripe pinot aromas and flavors. I’m guessing this will take several years to make any kind of development. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $22 on release; a great price.
Good with the meal.
Fresh pompano baked with panko bread crumbs:
2004 Tissot, Chardonnay:
Served too cold, this is twice the wine as it warms to room temp. The more I drink of this the more I think it will cellar well. But even now it delivers sumptuous textures, solid flavors, no sign of wood and excellent complexity. My favorite white right now. 13% alcohol, imported by Potomac Selections and about $23; I bought a lot.
A spectacular pairing.
Leftover pasta with butternut squash, etc.:
2004 Puffeney, Arbois Trousseau Cuvée Les Bérangères:
At first, quite closed, tannic and angular; after some time in the decanter, a vinous nose of cherry cough drop, peach pit and sage; similar in the mouth with a mineral streak and noticeable grip, nicely delineated and balanced; medium length. A lot of pinot noirs wish they had this kind of vitality and focus but occasional sips can be pretty tannic. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $28; worth it.
Excellent with the dish.
Pizza and salad:
2005 Montevertine, Pian del Ciampolo:
Mostly sangiovese with some canaiolo and colorino; smells of chocolate, cherries and plums; tastes similar with a soft, low acid but not flabby delivery; its fleshy, concentrated and round; medium length. Not what I expect of sangio., which is usually lighter and has some crisp in it but still a pleasant wine - for drinking now, I think. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $23; fairly priced but probably not a repeat buy for me.
Very good with the meal.
At an in-store wine tasting, I opened a bottle of this for friends:
2005 Baudry, Chinon La Croix Boissée:
No one has to tell me that I opened this way before its prime but I bought a few and wanted an early read; penetrating nose of smoke, herb, dark fruit, mineral, earth and very light red fruit tones; sensational texture – like drinking well washed old denim, very complex flavors that follow the nose, well structured but hidden behind fabulous intensity and concentration and yet, everything of whole cloth, seamless and perfectly balanced; infinite finish. Extremely fine, about as good as the AOC can do and one of the very best cabernet franc wines I’ve tasted. HOLD! 14% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $30, ridiculously under priced.
(We tasted a lot of different wines at this tasting; premier cru Burgundy, good Bordeaux, some interesting Spanish stuff but this just blew people away. Imagine, Chinon stealing the show. Just a stellar wine!)
Turkey meatloaf and mashed potatoes with mushroom gravey:
2005 Chat. Tour de Gilet, Bordeaux Superior:
Solid fruit with a touch of herb on the nose; medium weight, integrated; fruit and earth balance in the mouth with no rough edges and good structure. Pretty good stuff and a step up from most low-end Bordeaux. 13% alcohol, imported by Stacole Co. and about $15; I’ll buy more.
Terrific with the meal.
Best, Jim
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Times change . . .
When I first got seriously into wine collecting, it was all California wine. I was on every cult mailing list – all but one of them long since discarded. But my tastes changed over time and I have been exclusively French and Italian oriented for much of the last decade.
Now, I find that I am beginning to enjoy some of the west coast wines again; a few pinot noirs, a chardonnay or two, an older cabernet and a growing number of syrahs. I like to think that the ones I like have a certain “old world” feel to them, but maybe I’m just kidding myself.
Whatever the case, it has been an interesting cycle and one I find repeated by many of my wine friends. Good wine can be found in so many places.
I have also started to make wine; something I never thought I’d do and actually tried to avoid. But when I let go of the “next big thing” idea in purchasing, I got into learning more about the areas where wine is produced, certain varieties that I favored and the handful of producers I thought hit my sweet spot consistently. And then, of course, I wanted to know how they did that.
So making wine is not so much a commercial venture for me (although someday I’d like to do that, too) but more about the hands-on experience of trying to figure it out.
It has given me a great respect for farmers and chemists – two jobs that I am not very good at. And it has made wine all that much more fascinating.
I have given up on the idea of saving some bottles for special occasions. Now, the only thing that keeps me from opening whatever it is that I want is the fact that a particular bottle may not be ready to drink.
They’re all special occasions and they’re all good bottles.
I have come to admire the British tradition of passing down, through the generations, a well-stocked wine cellar. Such a sense of legacy and the opportunity for truly remarkable wines to age sufficiently so that they are enjoyed at their very best; it certainly has an appeal.
My daughter was not interested in wine – until recently. Now, she uses it much as people do their evening martini, a relaxing moment when the work day is over. It’s still not on her dinner table but perhaps she will come to that, much as she has come to enjoy a glass after work.
And so, I think I will start to segregate my cellar; those for drinking in my lifetime and those to pass along. Maybe it will never get to that but I like to think that the possibility exists and that she and I can establish our own wine tradition.
But one thing has remained constant; the best part of wine is the people you meet.
And so it goes . . .
Best, Jim
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Pasta with white clam sauce and a Cesar salad:
2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées:
An aromatic, beautifully silken wine with character, cut, finesse and length; I wonder why I even bother with white Burgundy? 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $13; worth multiples of that.
As good a pairing as there is – should be considered a classic match as each makes the other even better – and both are pretty darn good to start.
Ravioli in an artichoke, roasted pepper, parmesan cream sauce:
2004 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore:
There is never a disappointment with this producer but this bottle is particularly charming with red fruit, dusty rose and earthen scents; bright fruit with complex earth and spice notes and perfect balance on the lively, almost vibrating palate; and excellent length with complexity. Years ahead of its time but such precision so young. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Locascio and about $30 on release; under priced.
A good but not great pairing.
After dinner:
2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie:
(This was a partial bottle, recorked, left on the counter for three days and reopened this evening.) Even better then when first opened as some of the baby fat has been shed and the real depth and power of the wine are more evident. This will last a very long time – if I can keep my hands off it. Astonishing wine! 12.5% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20 on release; I bought a lot.
At an in-store tasting, I had a chance to taste from two bottles over the course of an afternoon; the 1996 Chat. Duhart-Milon, Bordeaux and the 2004 Gorrondona, Bizalko Txakolina from the Basque region of Spain. The first cost $70, the second $18. Both had a vegetal edge to the nose and were somewhat tannic. At first, the Duhart smelled like fairly closed Bordeaux and the Gorrondona smelled like Chinon in a ripe year but had a certain rawness to the texture. As they were exposed to air, they came closer and closer together in flavors and with textures that smoothed out appealingly. And by the end of the afternoon, the only real difference was the more pungent finish on the Spanish wine. Who would have thought that a Bordeaux blend and a wine of 100% hondarrabi beltza could show so similarly and so well – certainly, not me?
A revealing experiment for more than one taster this day.
Best, Jim
TN: 5 under 20
in Wine
Posted
Continuing to impress, the 2004 Tissot, Chardonnay Arbois was delicious with smoked salmon spread and later, with tomato and mozzarella salad. Above all else, this wine shows impeccable balance; ripe fruit, focus, acidity, minerality and length all as though made of a single thread; and even better, less than $20. Glorious!
A bottle of the 2005 Perrin & Fils, Côtes du Rhône Villages was adequate, I suppose; nothing wrong with it but certainly nothing to make me want more. Whereas, a recent 2006 Côtes du Rhône Reserve from the same house was delicious and character driven (and cheaper).
Oh well, there’s half a bottle left; maybe tomorrow it will be different.
One of the better values I’ve had of late is the 2006 René Barbier, Tempranillo Penedès with its bright yet rich fruit, good balance and enough complexity to make it clear that this variety is grown in the right place and made well. A whopping $4; very, very hard to beat.
Another nice bottle of the 2005 Filipa Pato, Ensaios with dinner of pork tenderloin and chick pea curry was a great foil; its smoky, earthy and full of dark fruit with decent complexity and good length. A Portuguese beauty for $15.
And on a postcard perfect winter afternoon here on the west coast of Florida (70 degrees, light breeze, low-humidity, crystal blue sky and lots of sun) a glass of the 2006 Edmunds St. John, Gamay Rosé Bone-Jolly made the day even better; clean, crisp strawberry, raspberry fruit, good acidity, more depth than one usually hopes for in rosé all underlain with a savory mineral component – ‘makes my mouth water. And under screw-cap it’s easy to have a glass now and then.
Best, Jim