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Florida Jim

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Posts posted by Florida Jim

  1. I was in a tapas bar in Austin, Texas and on the advice of the waitress there I had a wonderful spanish wine for the first time called Albarino. The problem is now that I am back in Oklahoma, I can't find any! I bought a bottle in Austin and now I am wishing I bought a case to bring back. Does anyone know where I could possibly get some? Even if it's on the web?

    Thanks!

    Try winesearcher.com, they list many for sale.

    Best, Jim

  2. 1999 Hamacher, Pinot Noir:

    A little closed at first but opens nicely to a sappy, graceful red fruit profile on the nose and palate, good balance, intensity, some complexity and excellent length. Not at peak but, with air, a lovely wine that was worth waiting for.

    2000 J.P. Droin, Chablis Les Clos:

    Dead on the nose when first opened – maybe a little smoke and cooked lemon – so I decanted it for about half an hour; that’s what it needed - candied lemons, flowers, stones and light smoke notes on the nose; good flesh and real depth in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose in a nicely complex delivery, excellent spine of acidity that never lets the ample concentration get flabby, great intensity and lovely balance; as long a finish as I have enjoyed on any Chablis. Lives up to its grand cru turf and is in no danger of going south. And absolutely sensational with grilled mahi-mahi with lemon/caper sauce.

    Superb wine.

    1995 Palazzola, Rubino:

    From Umbria, 80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot; perfectly ripe and very focused blackberry, black currant and clean stone elements wrapped around each other – intense, direct and utterly pure; more complex in the mouth but with no less intensity, smooth and velvety; still some grip, good balance and length. This has taken every day of 13 years to get where it is and could probably use another 3-5 years to completely resolve. But what was once an angry, difficult bottle with hard edges and too much tannin is now an etched, intense and powerful wine that is of a piece – a remarkable evolution. Damn good with pizza and equally so, on its own. Having followed this since release, I am both surprised and pleased.

    1999 Prager, Chardonnay Smaragd Weissenkirchen:

    A soft, sweet chardonnay aroma (Diane says it smells like summer) with a bit of a resin note (obviously unwooded); full in the mouth but bright with a musky, simple syrup/cooked tone that I don’t much care for; finishes sweet but long. Definitely better than my last bottle (4/07) which was angular and acidic. Maybe this needs more time or maybe this isn’t the grape for me in this region. Not my style.

    2005 Terres Dorées (Brun), Fleurie:

    Tasted on day one and something seemed off – maybe TCA we thought – left in the decanter 20 hours; second day, no discernable TCA and the wine was more open but there’s a swimming pool aroma and it seems just a little off. I’m guessing a damaged bottle but I’d also say, based on the acidity and intensity, we are too early to this.

    2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie:

    Slightly closed on the nose and palate but still a beautiful, balanced, deep gamay with mostly dark fruit, some spice and earth and excellent concentration; good length. Maybe it’s not showing its best, but what it is showing is so much better than almost anything else, I am going to have a tough time staying away from my remaining bottles.

    1999 Gilles-Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Albéric Bouvet:

    Starts closed and with some brett but over an hour or so, the brett lessens to almost nothing and the aromas of fruit and leather come on; good in the mouth from the get-go with leather, meat, olive, iron accents to solid but elegant syrah fruit, a little smoky stuff in the background, nicely integrated, good balance; medium length finish that eases-up at the very end. I have liked this wine from release and it has gone through several incarnations; it wouldn’t surprise me at all if this has a few surprises left for those who can continue to cellar it. I still have a couple and I look forward to sharing them.

    1999 Trimbach, Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile:

    This has developed nicely since release with a layered nose of white fruit, spice, mineral and light petrol; smooth and substantial in the mouth, flavors that echo the nose, laser-like acidity and excellent length. The fatness of youth is gone and the power that was latent is starting to show. I can see this rising to the level of the St. Hune in time.

    1999 Texier, Côte-Rôtie VV:

    It’s been two years since my last bottle of this and it has resolved some of its structure and shows more fruit and complexity but it is still a young wine. For me, this is the gold standard for the AOC; very typical on the nose and palate, immense density and focus without weight, significant structure yet an elegant delivery and an endless finish. Not entirely integrated but impressive in ways that only the “roasted slope” can convey. One for the life list.

    Best, Jim

  3. 1999 Thomas, Pinot Noir:

    This has needed every bit of the 9 years since vintage to resolve itself; now a translucent ruby with clearing edges; light cherry and underbrush aromas; a lovely, round, perfectly balanced delivery with cherry and earth flavors and good length. Charming wine but not without substance.

    A glass on day three (wine recorked and left on counter) is even more complex and shows no signs of deterioration. So unlike the following wine it is hard to believe the same grape was involved.

    (I must admit to a soft spot for the wines from John Thomas. Years ago, I met with John, walked his vineyard with him, talked to him about his farming, the philosophy behind his wines and winemaking, and, sat with him in his barrel room and tasted through several vintages. I had followed his wines since first bottling and have several vintages in my cellar. And I have learned from others in the area just how devoted he is to his chosen career.

    His wines are not for everyone; often in their youth they display a gunpowder aroma that can be off-putting. They also take awhile to come together and show well. Better still, they are not the same every year, although they always carry the stamp of John’s vineyard and techniques, one can taste the vintage in them.

    Personally, they are representative of what is best and most alluring about Oregon pinot noir and this bottle lives up to that notion.)

    2006 Raptor Ridge, Pinot Noir Reserve:

    If one enjoys Everclear-laced, sugar-infused, over-ripe pinot noir, this is the bottle for you. Volatile alcohol in the nose, burning in the mouth, candied fruit, and burning in the throat. Unbalanced, unpleasant and such a departure from past efforts as to be all but unrecognizable. Slightly better with food and after one has had a glass already (I assume I could get used to drinking straight gin at some point . . .) but not a bottle I would ever buy or recommend. Not for me.

    (What the hell happened here? These guys made really pretty pinots from Murto and other vineyards; wines that could be enjoyed with food and didn’t mimic mixed drinks. But here is a wine that has to fit somebody’s business model of what sells and, if this is what sells, then I am very disappointed, although I suppose, not shocked. To me, 180 degrees from the previous wine and in no way representative of fine Oregon pinot (or fine pinot from anywhere.)

    Best, Jim

  4. With crackers and smoked salmon spread:

    2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Dom. Pierre de La Grange:

    Tangy, on both the nose and palate; bright acidity, white fruit and floral notes and that almost resinous tang that fresh Muscadet can have; longer finish than expected. Delicious both on its own and with the dish. $9, full retail.

    With pasta with veggies and olives:

    2001 Edmunds St. John, Los Robles Viejos:

    This may be a southern Rhône blend but it acts more like a St. Joseph with clean syrah smells and a distinct mineral ingredient; firm in the mouth but not closed with red fruit, mineral and some light garrigue accents, fine balance and structure; medium length, integrated finish. A wine of whole cloth with better structure than is typical for CA reds; no doubt, it has a long shelf-life. Gained presence and complexity with the dish.

    With Caesar salad and pizza:

    1998 Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Cascina Francia:

    Very elegant wine with soil and roses, pretty nebbiolo fruit, good complexity and an almost weightless delivery. The label says 14.5% alcohol; you coulda’ fooled me. A lovely bottle that is showing quite well. Terrific with the pizza but then, it’s terrific by itself, too.

    With cheese nachos, salsa, hummus and coleslaw:

    1993 Sullivan, Merlot:

    In those days, Sullivan made wine to age – at 15 years this has finally become what it was made to be; decanted off substantial sediment; a bit of VA along with bottle bouquet, pungent earth and dark fruit tones, some Baker’s chocolate and lots of complexity; still structured in the mouth but with fully developed fruit and earthy flavors, complexity, a certain rusticity and good sustain. Pretty nice wine and really balanced with the meal.

    With pasta with zucchini, garbanzo beans, olives and garlic:

    2005 Laurent Tribut, Chablis Côte de Léchet:

    Less primary than on release but also takes a little while to open in the glass; floral, lemon zest, white fruit aromatics with light accents of fresh air and spring water; the same elements at play in the mouth but now its showing a core of ample fruit that wasn’t noticed last year and some structure that, while understated, creates an intensity in the mouth that is very attractive, good balance and a lovely, long finish. Still a feminine wine but now more woman than girl. Very nice with the dish.

    With fried soft-shelled crabs:

    2003 Hirtzberger, Grüner Veltliner Axpoint:

    A concentrated, open wine with good depth, character and acidity, and none of the difficulties of the vintage in evidence. Charming by itself and good with the food.

    With braised short-rips:

    2005 Landmark, Pinot Noir Kanzler Vnyd.:

    Rhubarb, orange peel, red fruit nose with some underbrush accents; not quite as complex or nice on the palate with candied fruit and echoes of the elements of the nose, big textures and a bit hefty; medium length finish. Not to my taste by itself but this came alive with the short-ribs and was much better than I expected.

    Best, Jim

  5. With pasta tossed with mushrooms and truffle oil:

    2002 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois Pupillin (poulsard):

    If one insists that the “earth speak” through wine, this is the bottle for you; pours orange but settles in the glass to transparent garnet with a browning rim; the nose is so enticing – wild strawberry with the leaves, pomegranate, newly turned earth, and very light truffle tones (not even a hint of oxidation despite the color); much the same in the mouth with a capsaicin-like note (probably borne of bright acidity), a weightless delivery but no lack of intensity; long, spicy finish. Diane says it reminds her of France – the countryside – and although I’ve not been, I get it. A pretty wine that will not be for everyone but that speaks to me as few others do. $21 – worth multiples of that to those who love such wines. Superb with the dish.

    With white asparagus with hollandaise sauce:

    1999 Egon Müller, Riesling Kabinett Scharzhoffberger:

    Fresh and lyrical aromas, somewhat floral; clean, bright and somewhat akin to spring water in the mouth with slight sweetness, excellent balance and a medium length finish. Lovely, and good with the dish.

    With halibut with pasta and pesto:

    2005 de Villaine, Bourgogne Blanc Les Clous:

    Firm and closed upon opening, gains aromatics and textures with air but this is not for present serving. I could discern that it has gotten rid of the smells and flavors of oak that I detected on release and that it has fine acidity and structure. Too closed for much else . . .

    With cheeses:

    1999 Drouhin, Volnay Clos des Chênes:

    Has shed its baby fat but is still a juvenile; very Volnay with its stony structure underlying striking red fruit and considerable length to the finish. But this needs at least a decade in the cellar as it only showed faint, albeit inviting, hints of development. Grand cru quality.

    With chicken sausages with feta and spinach, hummus, sliced zucchini in lemon sauce, fresh tomatoes with basil and grilled Nan;

    2005 Dom. Vissoux, Beaujolais VV Cuvée Traditionnelle:

    Try this; think of the sound a whip makes when its cracked; now imagine scents and flavors that carry that same stamp; crackling black-raspberry fruit with mineral undertones; vibrant, alive and utterly pure. It is impossible to have too much of this wine; graceful, vigorous and joyous stuff! And $14, on release.

    Best, Jim

  6. I was reading an article in the May issue of Wired magazine, it was not a very big article, but it was talking about how all the top wines in the industry were beginning to put alot of computer technology to use to keep imatations of thier wines from being put on the market. Mico chips in corks, holographic labels, tracking numbers etched in to the glass of the bottles, etc. I was wondering, is "wine fraud" a real issue? If so, how big?

    Thanks!

    While I agree with muichoi regarding wines that are purchased at auctions or from retailers as being aged wines, I think it has little effect on wines that are of current vintage purchased from reputable retailers.

    And since I haven't near the money to bid at auctions or buy very old wines, I feel pretty safe.

    Best, Jim

  7. After eight months away from my cellar, it is a delight beggaring description to return and have such variety to choose from. And on a cool, clear night, dinner with friends on the back porch is a chance to indulge:

    With radicchio leaves stuffed with herb marinated goat cheese:

    2005 La Pépière, Muscadet Granite de Clisson:

    A bottle of this on release left me with an impression of too much softness but VLM recently tasted it and said he thought I’d be happier with it now. Turns out, monkeys do have magical powers.

    Very few young white wines (or aged ones, for that matter) have this expressive a nose; flowers, jalapeño, river stones, saline, fresh cracked pepper, white grapes, citrus zest – and the blend of scents seems to change with each sniff – a remarkably complex, dimensional and character driven nose; quite fresh and deep with good flesh in the mouth but an almost weightless delivery of layered flavors that echo the nose, fine acidity and balance, of a piece; very long, intense and nuanced finish. $20!

    I get the feeling this is just beginning to show what it has – and that is saying something. Very nice with the dish.

    With grilled chicken breasts with gremolata, grilled asparagus and fresh, sliced tomatoes:

    2000 Raveneau, Chablis Butteaux:

    Starts off somewhat closed - just a bit of vanilla and some light chardonnay scents – but with time in the glass the vanilla recedes and a mineral/floral character rises up to frame lovely ripe fruit; medium weight in the mouth with good balance and density but still retains its elegant character; medium length finish that has an echo of vanilla and mineral. Perhaps, a little too early to this but no sign of pre-ox and delicious with the dish as well as on its own. One of the few times I thought a vanilla component did not detract from a chardonnay.

    Best, Jim

  8. 2006 Edmunds St. John, Gamay Rosé Bone Jolly:

    Tonight, Diane and I sat out in the back yard on an atypical cool and windy evening here in Florida. As is often the case when there’s wine involved, the conversation turned to the essential things; family, relationships, friends and our sense of the world. Good talk, over good wine.

    We solved none of the world’s problems; we missed our chance to be famous and we have no idea what the meaning of life is – but (isn’t that a lovely word?), we enjoyed each other’s company, our surroundings and the ways of our dogs – and a nice rosé. I hope that your next bottle will be shared as well.

    1996 Domaine de la Louvetrie, Muscadet Fief du Breuil (magnum):

    All one could want of 12 year old Muscadet; toast, lemon curd, minerals, sea air and a roundness not found in younger wines; this is full in the mouth but with plenty of cut, taut balance and more length than could be reasonably expected. Over the course of the evening, it opened into shades of its primary scents and flavors but always retained a precision and freshness. Has many years in the cellar to peak but was wonderful accompaniment to simply grilled fish. I wish I had more.

    Thanks Phillip.

    2005 Steele, Pinot Noir Santa Barbara:

    A “little wine” that gives the impression it was whole-cluster fermented; a stemmy, light cherry, clean nose with flavors that follow and add some black cherry and a mineral tinge; smooth and round, decent acidity and good balance. Not for those who like big pinots or want them to act like syrah. 13.5% alcohol.

    2003 Dom. Tempier, Bandol La Tourtine:

    Opened with trepidation and only to see if I wanted to buy more, this was much more open and expressive than expected; blackberries, meat, stone and a unsweetened baker’s chocolate; flavors of black and red fruit with a strong coffee note, fleshy and resolute in the mouth with excellent concentration, fine grained tannins, good balance and a very long, mouth-coating, albeit drying, finish. More to my taste than the ’03 La Migoua tried last week. Superb wine but truly, one for the cellar.

    And, for those keeping score, no overt evidence of the heat of the vintage.

    Best, Jim

  9. 2006 Emilio Rojo, Ribeiro:

    The floral elements of this wine are captivating; an entire garden of wild flowers growing beside a white-water stream; viscous in the mouth but not weighty with white flesh fruit and mineral accents and very good length. About as appealing a wine as imaginable.

    2005 Pieropan, Soave

    More weight in the mouth than is usual for this bottling (almost La Rocca size) with honey tones and bright acidity. Hold this for more flavorful dishes that require white wine. Nice.

    2005 Philippe Faury, St. Joseph

    A complete wine; blackberry, tar, pine oil smells and flavors that are straight-forward but also poised and subtle. Beautifully textured and balanced syrah that should be the envy of this appellation.

    2003 Dom. Tempier, Bandol La Migoua:

    Decanted four hours; game smells and flavors compliment ripe fruit with accents of fresh turned soil and fresh herbs; fine grained in the mouth with flesh, structure and weight yet still balanced and integrated. A big wine but not out-sized and terrific with pizza.

    2006 Drouhin, Chablis:

    Village Chablis with character, concentration, a steely delivery and good length. Pretty hard to find good chardonnay under $20, this bottle was more than worth it.

    2006 Chat. Grande Cassagne, Costières de Nîmes Rosé:

    Very full flavored and very dry – two things I demand of rosé. Stands up to refrigeration well and is balanced and friendly even as it warms in the glass. $5, on sale.

    2005 Erath, Pinot Noir

    Clearly from Oregon with its pale cherry color, underbrush and cherry scents and elegant mouth feel; nonetheless, solid fruit flavors and some hummus accents with a light mineral undertone. Pretty – a ‘little’ wine but also a nuanced one.

    Best, Jim

  10. My daughter is 34, married, has a two year old and a burgeoning legal career.

    So when she took an entire Saturday to spend alone with me in celebration of my birthday, I was surprised.

    We canoed a local river, saw Osprey doing their mating dance, ate lunch on a private beach, shopped for wine for her dinners and my gift, dropped in on old friends (and laughed a lot) and went to dinner. Through it all we talked as we have not had the chance in some time – of meaningful things, like friends, love, life, spouses, the way we see the world and what’s next.

    I left her house about 8:00 pm and came home to a glass of rosé with my wife.

    ‘Told her about my day.

    Not much of a wine story, I guess, but one of the best days of my life.

    Thanks for reading, Jim

  11. Each fall, I load up the car with a variety of wine from my cellar, which I keep in NC, and come south for the winter. Of course, when it’s close to time to return to the mountains, I’ve exhausted my choices and am usually down to several cases of wine I have purchased while in FL, almost all of them, by the case.

    So right about now, I have quit writing tasting notes on stuff I’ve written about for most of the winter. Its not that I don’t enjoy those wines, it’s just that it’s the same old thing to write about.

    Recent bottles, for which I have already written several notes include the 2006 Qupé, Syrah, Central Coast; Luneau-Papin, Muscadet, Semper Excelsior (schistes); 2005 Cep, Syrah; 2006 Chat. Grande Cassagne, Costières de Nîmes, Rosé; N/V Marquis de Monistrol, Cava Brut, Reserva; 2006 Robert Weil, Riesling Trocken (Qba); 2004 Tissot, Chardonnay; 2005 Dampt, Chablis, Côte de Léchet; and, the 2000 Chat. Cantelys, Pessac-Léognan. I think all are excellent examples of their ilk and all cost less than $25.

    But I have come across one wine that cost a little more, that was surely worth it and that is completely different: the 2006 Emilio Rojo, Ribeiro, at $40 and imported by De Maison Selections. Made from treixadura, louieiro, torrontes, albariño and lado; the latter being an indigenous grape that Señior Rojo is almost singularly responsible for saving.

    First sniff-age is like wandering through a field of wild flowers; it’s fresh, clean, lightly sweet and full of dimension – just a delight to smell. Obviously well made, with depth and considerable complexity in the mouth, substantial white fruit flavors, a laser beam of minerality and that precise balance that frames everything so well that I feel it’s a special wine. Very long and smooth but still bright and lip-smacking on the finish. IMO, a remarkable wine that shows me just how far certain producers in Spain have come.

    Sometime in the next few weeks, Diane and I will head back to NC. There aren’t many wine stores up there but my cellar awaits and it is always a pleasure to get back to it – everything a bit older than when I left.

    All those choices; then I’ll get back to writing more notes.

    Best, Jim

  12. I think Jim meant Juge (Marcel Juge) and not Joge, if you end up trying to locate those wines. 

    Yep - Juge.

    Best, Jim

  13. Thank you for the excellent insight, I know that if I can trust anyone around here about Syrah, it's you! Is there any specific preparation of veal recommended by Clape? I would imagine a grilled chop would not be a bad choice though a bit expensive, would a roast work as well?

    I took that recommendation out of Livingstone-Learmonth's book on the the Northern Rhone and Clape did not specify any preparation for the veal. But grilling it, whether as a chop or a larger cut, surely sounds good.

    Best, Jim

  14. First of all, the Clape should be ready now as that vintage is softer and with less concentration than others.

    August Clape recommends that the 1997 be served with veal.

    Aside from that, you have asked some questions that are more to personal taste - and when it comes to Cornas, I certainly have opinionst.

    It is my favorite syrah wine, unsurpassed even by Hernitage or Cote Rotie. It is the more rustic edge, the more sauvage delivery and, above all else, its distinct character.

    Not a wine for the cocktail set nor one that many beginning wine drinkers find at the top of their lists. It is unusual (a term which I think ost would agree with) and for that reason, I love it.

    I hope you enjoy your bottles and I hope you go on to try other producers; among them, Allemand, Voge, Noel Verset, Michel and Joge. I have many wines from these guys in my cellar.

    Best, Jim

  15. 2002 Gravner, Ribolla Giulia Anfora (magnum):

    I am reminded of Chartreuse (the real one) with its composite herb formula that creates not only significant complexity but depth of flavor; that, and fresh Ranier cherries with a stony, mineral backbone and substantial tannin. Tasted blind (literally) I can’t imagine many folks picking this out as a white wine. Dark yellow in color that turned brassy over the course of the afternoon. No oxidation at first and then, about 6 hours in, hints of it on the nose and palate. But seriously juicy and, thankfully so, as the tannin requires it. 12.5% alcohol, a unique wine and, for my tastes, incomparable. $170 for the big bottle.

    2001 Sella, Lessona:

    Smoke, earth, Baker’s chocolate, dark fruit and stone on the nose – complex and alluring; rich and seamless in the mouth with similar flavors and complexity, and, a nice long echo to all of the flavors. I’m told by certain folks that this needs time – I don’t see it. It may last well and even develop but this is very fine nebbiolo right now. And at $26, a no brainer.

    N/V Marquis de Monistrol, Cava Brut Reserva:

    Crisp, clean, bone dry but still fruit flavored and a steady bead; delightful bubbly – at about $9.

    2006 Qupé, Syrah Central Coast:

    My fifth bottle of this in the last two weeks and I finally found one that was a little tighter than the others. Left recorked on the counter overnight, it was just as good as the other five. I think this is one of the truest varietal syrahs in the market right now and worth every penny of $17.

    2005 d’Angerville, Bourgogne:

    12.5% and about $29; the concentration and depth of a premier cru, a very firm structure and yet well integrated, this comes across as hard in the mouth, a bit raw but very Volnay. Has everything needed to become much more than simple Bourgogne but needs considerable cellar time.

    2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Semper Excelsior – Terroir de Schistes:

    Silky but not soft, bright but not acidic, deep but not over-extracted, mouth-filling but weightless, complex but focused – I think great wines always have such paradoxes; its all about perfect balance and endless length and this wine is at the top of the heap. I can not think of white wine I enjoy more. And I am anxious to see what this will become with long-term cellaring. 12.5% alcohol and $20.

    2006 Robert Weil, Riesling Trocken:

    11.5%, Qba and AP 091 06; a little closed on the nose with white fruit and stone smells; much nicer in the mouth as it shows some layers of fruit and mineral with a fine texture and good sustain. One of my favorite dry rieslings, year in and year out, this has a bit more heft to it then most vintages but its still bone-dry. $17.

    2006 do Ferreiro, Albariño Cepas Vellas:

    Very complex nose with lime skin, brine, smoke, spice and sea-air weaving in and out of crushed white grape and peach aromas; almost full-bodied in the mouth but absent weight, brown spices, good depth, flavors follow the nose, firm acidity, perfect balance and a steely delivery not unlike young Chablis; superb length and a very detailed finish. Not your typical albariño this is much more concentrated and serious and I suspect it will age well. 13%, about $35 and worth it.

    Best, Jim

  16. 2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées:

    Another bottle and I see no need to change my previous note; ‘think alpine stream; fragrant, fresh, crystalline, clear, pure; sensational wine for $13.’

    N/V Marques de Monistrol, Cava Brut Reserva:

    11.5% alcohol and I think this tastes remarkably like a small grower Champagne; regardless, it’s crisp, bright and citric with a fine and persistent bead and a freshness that makes it so easy to drink. $9.

    2004 Tissot, Chardonnay Arbois:

    If this isn’t the purest under $20 chardonnay in the market today, it is certainly one of them. No wood, no syrup, no over-extraction; just clean, ripe chardonnay fruit with ample minerality and acidity. Has a shelf life but I’m drinking these faster than my cellar can hold them – maybe I’ll have to ‘lose’ one.

    1993 Lopez de Heredia, Rosado Viña Tondonia

    Opened to go with saffron pasta with pine nuts and parmesan, this was an ideal match. The wine is good on its own with pomegranate and strawberry scents and flavors, a vinous quality and a slight oxidative note – but with this dish it was spectacular. A match to remember and I bet it would be good with risotto Milanese, too.

    2001 Bouchard Pere et Fils, Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot:

    The wood is still somewhat drying on the palate but the wine smells and tastes better than it did on release. This may never overcome its barrel treatment but it seems to be trying. Solid Volnay character with good depth of fruit; a bit short. Considering I got this for $25, I’m not too disappointed and holding my remaining bottles seems appropriate. Although, it’s a bit discouraging considering what they are selling this for in more current vintages.

    2005 Filipa Pato, Beiras Ensaios:

    Another bottle of this Portuguese blend of indigenous grapes is just as good as the last one; smoky and full on the nose; earthy and full flavored in the mouth and good length. A wine of character, it has a certain unique element in the nose and on the palate – something like dirt or turned earth – that seems to work well with the nature of the fruit and the structure of the wine. $15 well spent.

    2005 Dampt, Chablis Côte de Léchet:

    One more bottle of this with pretty aromatics, a full but not cloying mouth feel and deep, wholesome fruit with a firm mineral undertone. This vineyard produces some very feminine and elegant Chablis and this producer has caught that essence in this bottle. Certainly, this could stand some cellar time but the premox thing that seems to be going around gives me pause.

    2006 Qupé, Syrah Central Coast:

    I tasted a couple bottles of this last week and went out and bought a case. Last night, I opened it for friends and everyone enjoyed it. Meaty, good varietal character, respectable depth, excellent balance, some complexity and no manipulation or wood in evidence. A wine that pretty much shows the basics of what I love about this grape and I am quite pleased to have a few more in waiting. $16.

    2005 Cep, Syrah Sonoma Coast:

    13.2% and supposedly the second label of Peay Vineyards; a wine that is similar to the Qupé mentioned above but is more California in style and shows its wood; the wood does not overwhelm by any means but, as far as I am concerned, if you can smell it or taste it, its too much, and you can do both with this wine. The difficulty here is that it does not enhance the wine but rather, it obscures varietal character and limits the intensity and length. Not a bad wine and, maybe with time in the cellar, better than it is now. But this was $25 and when I can buy the Qupé for $9 less, I really haven’t the inclination to experiment.

    Best, Jim

  17. 1998 Guiseppe Mascarello, Barolo Monprivato:

    Served a bit warm and recovered some when put in the fridge for 15 minutes; pale and slightly browning color; once it was cool, a lovely rose petal nose; elegant and flavorful in the mouth albeit slightly thin and resolved tannin. I think this had been somewhat cooked in transit but it was still a pleasant bottle – but not for $38.

    1998 Hop Kiln, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve:

    So much American oak smell as to mask any fruit aromas and the wood dried out the palate almost completely. Bad wine-making.

    2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées:

    Think alpine stream; fragrant, fresh, crystalline, clear, pure; sensational wine for $13.

    2005 Breton, Chinon Beaumont:

    Ripe cabernet franc with a minty edge, good depth, fine grained tannins and superb length. Good now, maybe better later. $18.

    2006 Edmunds St. John, Gamay Rosé Bone Jolly:

    Its warm today – maybe 82 or so; the back yard has some shade but its fleeting as the sun heads westerly and gains a direct route to our table; the breeze is nice and sky has puffy clouds everywhere; we sit and we eat our

    chips and salsa, humus and avocado and chat about what’s next for us; the dogs lay-out nearby, ever watchful; the wine is fresh and refreshing; the hour goes by and at its end, we feel better. Highly recommended.

    And another bottle of the 2006 Qupé, Syrah Central Coast was every bit as good as the last one; sort of reminds me of really good Crozes and it still only costs $16 (supermarket wine my ass, Enzo).

    Best, Jim

  18. Some years ago, I turned on a televised sporting event and, as usual, the National Anthem preceded its start. I am fairly jaded to that song, having heard it hundreds of times, and I usually hit the mute button. But I had tuned in just as Lori Morgan began; she did it straight – no trills, no flourishes, just as it was written. And she did it a cappella. It was very moving and no one has yet done it truer.

    That’s what this wine reminds me of.

    Just as Ms. Morgan is a skilled singer, Bob Lindquist is a skilled winemaker. But that performance and this bottle are about a choice; to do it straight and to do it for the sake of the fundamentals.

    My impressions follow:

    The 2006 Qupé, Syrah Central Coast is really impressive and ready now; wonderful northern Rhône-type aromatics that are rich and alluring; meaty and complex in the mouth, excellent varietal character, an elegant delivery and perfect balance; these are the smells and flavors that keep me coming back to syrah. A very complete wine, fully integrated and ready to drink now, 13.5% alcohol and a price tag of $16; I am going to buy a lot of this – one of those wines that both Diane and I feel we could drink a bottle of once a week. No overt wood, no spoof, no heavy extraction, and ideal ripeness. What a terrific wine!

    It went extremely well with ricotta/feta tart, broccoli salad and crusty rolls – truly enhanced the meal.

    Best, Jim

  19. The 2005 V. Dauvissat, Chablis Le Foret is not going to take any prize for size or weight, but it is pure, balanced and utterly of its place. We had it with grilled chicken, roasted red peppers and Caesar salad and found that more of its mineral component came out. Surely this will age well but it is not to be missed before it closes down. A very fine wine with the signature purity of its producer.

    I opened a 375 ml of Del Duque, Amontillado Muy Viejo prior to dinner and this 30 year solera sherry was very aromatic with nuts and citric smells, a caramel color and enough alcoholic bite to sooth a sore throat. After a sip or two, it rounds out very nicely and would be good accompaniment for fried foods. Nice, and worth having a small bottle around from time to time.

    With dinner, a bottle of 2005 Filipa Pato, Tinto Ensaios smelled of dirt and fruit; had a very earthy palate but still carried more than enough fruit, was moderately complex and had medium length. An intriguing Portuguese table wine from the Beiras region; the earthy elements really give it character and match quite well with food. I’ll buy more of this at $15.

    For $6, the 2003 Lanciola, Chianti Colli Fiorentini will go reasonably well with more than a few dinner choices as it has soil and chocolate on the nose and in the mouth, does not show the alcohol and extraction of the vintage, and, generally delivers an elegant if understated performance.

    I’m just not sure about the 2005 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba; it doesn’t have much varietal character right now and its tough and steely across the palate – almost minty; concentrated and balanced, maybe it just needs a few years in the cellar. And since it’s this producer, I think I will trust in that.

    Best, Jim

  20. Lots of talk about 2005 Bordeaux, so I opened the 2005 Château Tour de Gilet Bordeaux Superieur this evening. My local retailer told me it’s got a bit more petite verdot in it than the usual and sure enough, its color is very dark and it’s pretty tannic. But it’s also very aromatic and quite good with pizza and salad. I suspect this would actually age into something more developed and complex; right now it’s got forward fruit, mostly in the black hues, good concentration and fair balance. At $15, maybe I’ll buy a couple for future experiments.

    Or future pizza nights.

    Its Friday, we’re having a homemade dinner at home and Diane, bless her heart, desires “Burgundy!” I find it wise to grant the chef’s request.

    To start, a 2005 Daniel Dampt, Chablis Côte de Léchet is a striking thing; clearly of its place, full but angular on the nose it comes off crystalline yet tasting of a buttered fruit-tart in the mouth; very precise although someone has sanded off all the edges; maybe a little tight and certainly with plenty of shelf-life but oh, so good now.

    Dine says we’re having polenta with a topping of greens, beans, olives, red pepper flakes and garlic, and a little pork tenderloin for me (she does not eat meat); and the 2005 d’Angerville, Bourgogne is the perfect accompaniment. It’s reticent but pure on both the nose and palate but solid and graceful in its very Beaune way; nothing here to cloy and a texture and delivery that are finely grained, perfectly balanced and make us want to come back to the glass – we both wish it was a magnum. I suppose it could use some time in the cellar but we probably won’t be that patient – how many pinot noirs today create such a presence in such an understated way? It’s a premier cru Bourgogne if there ever was one.

    There are a lot of years when I really like this wine, but the 2004 Dom. d’Aupilhac, Coteaux du Languedoc Montpeyroux just isn’t one of them. It’s not a bad wine; salty minerality and ripe fruit, but it isn’t carrying anything that identifies it as to place and it seems a little over-done; torrefied and tannic for tannic’s sake, etc. I suppose it would be fine with heavy or fatty food but that’s not what I eat so this will be my last bottle of this even though it’s only $15.

    A last minute invite from neighbors to come by, share some Thai food and some wine was accepted. These folks are not geeks but they had some wine they wanted us to taste (gifts all). (We were intrepid, only because we’d brought along a bottle of vermentino.) First was a brand called Hob Nob (I don’t recall vintage); it appears to be a bulk import from southern France and is designated by variety. We tasted the pinot noir and there is absolutely nothing wrong with this wine – for my preferences, its more balanced and varietal than a whole lot of CA pinots – wholesale cost $4.50.

    Then they opened a 2005 Bogle, Phantom which appears to be a blend of petite sirah and zinfandel with a splash of mourvèdre. It’s 15.8% alcohol and, while it’s not hot, it is ponderous and thick in the mouth – a ‘cocktail wine’ if there ever was one.

    Our bottle of 2006 Arigolas, Costamolino vermentino saved us when the food came; I don’t think I could have stomached Phad Thai and Phantom. The wine is bright, clear and tangy with several layers of flavor and a freshness that relates very well to food. $11 seems a good price.

    Nice folks and at least one, nice wine.

    Best, Jim

  21. David,

    A big fan of chardonnay from Arbois, I am pleased to see this note from the 2005 vintage. This vintage must be just hitting the shelves and I will gear-up for the coming wines.

    The 2004 Tissot is my house white this year; I can't think of a nicer chard. for $19.

    Best, Jim

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