Jeff T

I've been getting Winterpoints and Pemaquids out of Maine the last month or so and they have been delicious, especially the Pemaquids, very salty and lots of liquid.

Steve, we generally order the larger porterhouse from Lobels although we got the strips a few weeks ago. I love them all, but have them so far apart that it's impossible for me to make the comparison between the two. In general, I like strip better than porterhouse so if it was just me ordering I would order the strip regardless, but I'm curious if there is any reason specific to Lobel's to order the strip over the porterhouse. Thanks for the great report on my favorite place for beef. (By the way I've had them trim a noisette of lamb a couple of times for a Charlie Trotter dish with polenta, ratatouille and sauteed spinach, which is a great dish and someone always ends up asking for the lamb plain, its just that good and distinctive - or maybe it's my cooking )

I don't know anything about this, but a friend got a mailer from the Oyster Bar about an event on Saturday, July 26 - Oyster Frenzy. I guess there is stuff going on all day long, but from 5-7 pm there is an all-you-can-eat oysters, 18 different varieties available for $75.

Chefg, I couldn't agree with you more. One of my favorite things is to finish off the plate of a braised dish or stew with a piece of bread. I think I did just that with your rootbeer of shortribs.

Just curious, chefg, would you mind giving an example of when bread has complimented one of your dishes? Thanks.

There is no question - I really have to watch myself so I a reviewer doesn't totally color my perception of a restaurant. On the other hand, about ten years ago or so I was burnt by a Robert Parker review of a wine (1990 Topolos Zin). He said it was going to be great in a big way - I felt differently in a big way after putting my money behind his review. Throwing money down the drain taught me a good lesson. Keep reading the reviews, but try and know the reviewer. I still read Parker from time to time and definetely read restaurant reviews all the time. But at least now I think I have at least a rough idea what Parker likes in a wine and read his reviews with that in mind. I read the Grimes' review of WD-50 and thought it was helpful, but when all was said and done, I still had a thoroughly enjoyable meal and I came to that conclusion, I would hope, mainly from my experience at the restaurant, not the review.

I had the same thought for a minute too, but having had both extremes, 22 courses at Trio and three at WD-50, the same principle holds true in both situations. My expectations are high at both restaurants and if a dish doesn't work in either place I'm responding to the actual issue (ingredients don't work together, etc.) rather than the fact that I have 20 more shots at it with the larger tasting. As far as my meal at WD-50, I really liked it. Had the foie gras terrine with anchovies (I generally don't like white anchovies because of the vinegar as mentioned by someone earlier, but I didn't have the same problem with it), I liked the combination and thought the anchovies were a positive addition to the terrine. Also had the pork belly which was very tasty and smooth, but not nearly as rich as I thought it would be considering the amount of fat I was eating. The panna cotta, grapefruit sorbet dessert was a 10 (loved what I thought was a dried, carmelized grapefruit slice as a component). My son had the calamari linguine which we both liked and the sea bass with almonds and smoked scallions. While the combinations may not have been as exotic as Trio (where I had an excellent meal), I still found the meal very satisfying and interesting - excellent food, good wine and great service to top it off.

If you are looking for a high end dinner and don't mind the drive to Jerusalem, Mishkenot Shaananim (near the King David Hotel) is one of the best restaurants in the country, I think. I'm very happy to eat falafel or schwarma from a street vendor at least once a day.

chefg, having dined with you this spring (we had the tdf at the kitchen table-it was before I first posted on egullet, but if I had it would have been a tremendous report), I think your idea is a very good one. I was really ready for our dinner when we arrived and I remember thinking when the bread was put on the table how it didn't really fit in with my expectations for the evening. There is no question in my mind as the dinner progressed that this was the case. I like your idea of something in its place, not just for the sake of a substitute, but to add another layer to the evening, because that is what I enjoy and find so stimulating about the movement in general and Trio in particular. I ate at wd-50 last week and instead of bread they served something lighter, a crisp that served the purpose you alluded to of feeding the habit, combating boredom and satiating the appetite when you sit down, but I think what you are talking about doing adds a new dimension to the meal and is innovative. I do like good bread at a simpler meal (steak, grilled fish) but I've often wondered about the wisdom of bread for every occasion. I think your creative alternative will be a great addition to the Trio experience. (By the way, I agree with Fat Guy-its probably a good idea to still offer bread to someone who asks for it. Why try and fight the habit, and I think as the new concept becomes more familiar, fewer and fewer will ask for it.)

Ditto from me also to Fat-Guy and Ellen for the great report. I ordered the sampler which contained the Jean Louis, Spring Frolic, Drumm and Top Hat and a couple others I can't remember names now. Also ordered a Fallen Pyramid and some cheddar. These are all amazing cheeses and are as good (or better in some cases) as anything I've had in my limited experience in France or Spain. Thank you to the Stein's for taking the artisinal cheesmaking process in this country to a new level from the ground up.

The first locally-grown peaches of the season are in (a high point of my year) - I'm on my third one this evening.

Here's an update on the first Jamon Iberico that will be imported to the US and it sounds like it will be a totally Spanish product. I'd love to have one, but it doesn't look like they will be available until 2005 and at $59/lb. for a 15 lb. leg it's quite pricey. I believe I read they will be making chorizo from the same pigs. Here's an article on the chorizo that's currently being imported. I've had it and its very good. The serano ham that is available is good also but it just doesn't have the depth and richness of the Iberico. If you get a good airfare, it will be cheaper to make the trip to Spain to eat it though.

If you can't find it in the city, you can order it from tienda.com. They have imported chorizo and american-made spanish chorizo. I believe mexican chorizo is a raw product while the spanish is cured meat. I like them both, I have a great Norman Van Aken recipe for mexican chorizo that I make 15 pounds at a time and freeze what I don't eat and give away right away.

In our house, over the past 20 years, a caesar salad based on the recipe in the New York Times Cookbook is the one that no one in the family ever seems to get tired of. Nothing fancy but best caesar we've ever had. Hadn't had cucumber and onions salad in a long time and my wife took some vidalia onions and made it the other day and it was great.

I appreciate all the suggestions from everybody. Elyse is really right, my wife wants to go to Little Italy for the experience and I think she may be on overload after the last few nights and just wants some pasta and red sauce, which I am sure will be at least as good and probably better than we are able to get at home. I took Tommy's suggestion and we will probably end up at Pellegrinos. There's no question, I'd like to try the other suggestions on another visit and fortunately I'm sure we'll be back soon. Hopefully I will be here when an egullet dinner is planned. I'd love to put faces with all the posters I've been reading the last couple of years. Thanks again everybody.

I came to town late Friday night to help my son look for an apartment and eat as much as my wife would allow me. After a plane delay and midnight arrival, we checked into our hotel and since I hadn't eaten since noon, went to the Carnegie Deli at 1 am, which was close by. Nothing special about it except the size of the sandwiches, which never ceases to amaze me. Next day was spent apartment hunting and dinner was at La Cote Basque. At least 20 years ago, I had the cassoulet there and have had to have it again every few years. It was perfect Saturday - great garlic sausage, duck confit and white beans with as much flavor as I've ever had. My wife thought it was saffron in the beans that I liked so much, but I'm not really sure. Had pates for my appetizer which I enjoyed. ("Pates and cassoulet - a hearty combination" the captain said when I placed the order, althought I think my wife called it something more direct, I think she said I was being a pig.) Wife and son both had rack of lamb with a great reduction. Funny thing was one rack was delicious and tender and the other was very tough with an off taste. We had a 1982 Giscours at a reasonable price which went well with the meal and it was fun to be able to order an '82 Margaux and still be able to afford to eat the next couple of nights. Everyone had souffles for desert and I think theirs are consistently excellent. Sunday we went to a show in the afternoon and had an early dinner at DB Bistro. I had the pig trotters which I liked. My wife had chicken breast with a morel sauce (she thought it was a tremendous piece of meat, extremely tender. My son had the morrocan spiced tuna, which tasted like plain seared tuna to all of us - no morrocan spiced flavor or any other flavor for that matter other than tuna. Had a Santa Barbara Rousanne with the meal which was very good and only $45 or $50. Nice deserts, but can't remember what they were right now. Monday my son found an apartment in the East Village and fortunately for me it is a couple of blocks from Katz's. Had never been there before and thought the pastrami was the best I've ever had. Also enjoyed the chopped liver. Walked by Bryant Park and was tempted to go to the concert, but couldn't pass up dinner at Grammercy Tavern. Our son met up with some friends from college so it was just the two of us and we had the vegetable tasting menu which was five savory courses and two dessert: started with a romaine salad with yukon gold potatos, chopped egg and something else that I've forgotten, but it was quite good. Second course was Eggplant Napoleon with Lemon-Rosemary Vinaigrette and Arugula. Eggplant purree layered between thin grease-free fried eggplant slices. Vinaigrette was fantastic. Great. Third course was Potato Risotto with Morels, Ramps and Parmesan. Very good, but very rich and my wife felt it was a little salty but it was just right for me. Fourth was Roasted Spring Vegetables and Truffle Vinaigrette. All the vegetables were cut very small so they grilled up very tender but were also very crisp without being burnt - some kind of foam formed a base for the dish. Another great one. The last savory course was the Mushroom Tart Tartin which came with a mushroom cappuccino, I thought it was veal or beef stock with lots of mushrooms in it. Had a 2000 Sangiovese - Rosso Di Montalcino with dinner, which was delicious. Didn't have much room for the two dessert courses, but we really like the orange soup with orange sorbet and a candied piece of ginger which had a real kick to it. While the food overall was really good, what made it a really great experience was the staff. Their attention to detail without hovering over you was at a level I have only seen at a couple of other restaurants - ADPA and Trio at their kitchen table a few months ago. Now heres my question - my wife says she wants to go to Little Italy for a home cooked, (southern Italian, I think) meal Tuesday night - does any one have any suggestions? Thanks.

I haven’t traveled US 1 from Miami to Key West in over ten years, so I’m not sure what is there anymore, but I am in Key West regularly and once you hit town I would park my car and walk everywhere or better yet, rent bicycles to get around. Seven Fish on Olivia Street is one of my favorite spots lately. It’s a small place and the menu is whatever fish is fresh, prepared simply but done very well. I think you will probably need a reservation. Every time we go to Key West, we pick up Cuban and pork sandwiches to eat on the beach or at our hotel pool from El Siboney at least once or twice during our stay. I remember having paella there for dinner about ten years ago that I really enjoyed because of all the fresh seafood in it. There is a deck in the back of Louie’s Backyard that I think is a must for lunch. I like the food better at lunch over dinner (maybe it’s a better menu at lunch) and you won’t find a nicer setting anywhere on the island. Camille’s on Simonton Street has a good breakfast and if you want something lighter there is a place on the east end of Duval Street that has beignets and coffee. I can’t think of the name, but it will be easy to find – I have friends who have breakfast there every morning when they are in town. When we have our kids with us Mangia, Mangia is good place for pasta. I think it’s the best Italian on the island and very reasonably priced. The Half Shell Raw Bar is a lot of fun and an old standby. It’s on the dock and covered but open to the water. You sit at picnic tables and eat buffalo shrimp, poor boys, raw oysters, etc. and drink lots of beer. My friends who go to Key West two or three times a year, say a place opened up down the street on the dock and it does the same thing – only better, I think its name is Alonzo’s. Café Marquesa on Fleming Street (part of the Marquesa Hotel www.marquesa.com , my favorite place to stay if you don’t have a place yet) is where I’d go if you want an upscale meal. It’s a small place originally opened in the late 80s by Norman Van Aken as Mira – he did one seating a night, with a tasting menu. I ate there twice and it was phenomenal. It’s nowhere near as extravagant now and Van Aken is long gone, but it still tries to remember its roots and the food is very good. Key West is the most casual, relaxing place I have ever been to – you can wear shorts in the nicest restaurant in town no problem. I hope you have a great time.

Nerissa, thanks for the welcome. I think you hit the nail on the head, something like an altoid is just going to mask the dish. The lavender set the stage for what was to come and also I think is a different way to experience the combination of duck and lavender, instead of a more conventional medium such as a sauce. I'm not sure if this makes sense, but its the best way I can think of to explain it. I check out the Heartland section frequently, but I live about 300 miles from Chicago. I really do enjoy reading many of the different areas on egullet and hope I'll have something to contribute as time goes on.

I had a great dish with lavender at Trio in Chicago last month. On the menu it was listed as "White Pekin Duck, lavender salt, rhubarb, foie gras." The lavender was in the form of a lozenge that you let disolve on the roof of your mouth before you eat the rest of the dish. The best way I can describe it was, as I started eating the duck, my lavender breath coated the meat. It complemented the duck very well, I thought, starting out very strong the first few bites and then fading letting me focus on the other components of the dish (if I remember correctly, I think there was some crispy confit on top along with the rhubarb). By the end I was mixing the last few bites of all the components together for a great finish. The lavender really worked well and it was a unique presentation.

How do you see your cuisine evolving as time passes? Also, are there areas (a regional cuisine or another chef's work for example) you would like to have the opportunity to explore?