Anonymous Modernist 7382

Architeuthis, While glen is correct about relays in general, tblockley's comments are important. The SSR in your sous vide isn't like a traditional relay. SS allows for many cycles compared to mechanical relays, this is why they are used. But they can generate a lot of heat. The power rating is only for the SSR with the heat sink and the good ventilation. I've too many stories of people building DIY SV using a 25a and no heat sink. They hook up a 1000w heater and blow out the relay. If your using 1000W or less and have the heat sink and some ventilation, you should be fine.

Here's a good description i grabbed from online: The ground-fault circuit interrupter is a fast-acting device which senses small current leakage to ground and, in a fraction of a second, shuts off the electricity and interrupts its faulty flow to ground. The rapid response of the GFCI is fast enough to prevent electrocution and this protection is independent of the condition of the grounding conductor. Though a GFI will activate if a grounded appliance develops an electrical short circuit to ground... such as when YOU touch a metal saw and become the path to ground... you will experience a momentary electrical shock. This could be a minor tingle or could be more catastrophic, especially if you are on a ladder or roof. According to the NEC, it is allowable to install GFI's in ungrounded situations. This makes sense, since the GFI is not dependent of the ground to function. It does not measure shorts to the ground, it measures the current difference between the hot and neutral wires. A sudden difference, indicating that there is another path for the electricity to flow through... you, for example, causes the GFI to open the circuit and save you from permanently curly hair. The NEC allows GFI's to be installed in ungrounded situations PROVIDED THAT the outlet is labelled "ungrounded". Though not "officially" approved in the NEC, the grounding hole in the GFI can be permanently defeated by using an epoxy or other adhesive to seal the hole. Most safety-conscious electricians prefer not to install a grounded-type "three prong" outlet in an ungrounded situation. Think about it... once the outlet is installed, there is no way for anyone to know if the outlet is really grounded or not without testing it. Thus, there is a hidden shock hazard should an appliance or tool that needs grounding... has three-prong plug... is plugged into this outlet.

What I meant is the the GFCI functionality of the outlet wouldn't work. This is true, sort of. GFCIs work by sensing voltage change. When this happens the cut the power and ground the terminal to release an residual power in the circuit. The most important part is that it "cuts the power" Without the ground connected, it will still cut the power. This is good, but grounding is better. If you have your heater on and you hit the test button, does it turn off immediately? If so then it is cutting the power and you should be okay. Another issue is that you don't have ground for your heater. This is not a big deal if you are using a non-grounded element. If you are using a grounded element without attaching ground, then this is a hazard. How have you wired power to you setup? If you are using a 3 prong cord, why don't you just wire the ground and and then you will be killing two birds with one stone. Just run the green wire from the power cord to the ground on the gfci outlet. This will give you the most protection and you will be set if you upgrade your heater.

1. In order for a gfci to work, the outlet needs to be grounded to the source. The heating element doesn't but the outlet does. 2. 25a SSR should be fine for most applications as long as you have the heatsink on. The rating is based on using a heatsink and having some ventilation. If you are using say a 1200w heater, the draw is 10amps @ 120v. this means the 25a is rated twice as high which is a good rule of thumb to follow. Most SSRs can handle 1/2 of their rating without a heatsink so 25 is safe. I'm using a 40a because it was only a couple of dollars more. 3. PID is like magic! The reason to buy the controller is the PID function. This allows you to reach temp without overshoot and maintain that temp. IF you are maintain a temp over long periods of time, are you sure you do not have it set to PID. I find on/off always overshoots and undershoots. If your temp is a bit off, you should be able to adjust the readout to match the actual temp. this is a common issue because of the variable resistant in wring and sensors.

Hopefully someone can help here, I reached out the MC via email with no luck. I had gone into work a and brought my guide with me to read. i ended up leaving it in the car during the day. The next day when I went to open it, a bunch of the pages were "glued" together. It's as the the page coating had melted and sealed the pages together. Some came apart with some pulling but a few ripped. Any suggestion on how to separate the pages? I'd hate to tear more page especially considering I just got the set from my wife as an anniversary gift. Thanks for any input.

Built my controller into a small pelican case made for digital cameras. Then used a food warmer for the heater. Works great. Been maintaining 131 for 48 hours with a .2 degreefluctuationat most. Veryhappyand all gear came toabout$200. Plus I can use the food warmer when I'm done or the controller with any other heating source. I also add a 6v out putin caseI wanted to use a high temp circulation pump. Think I'm going to make 2 more controllers but with project boxes for the housings.

I would contact Logee's in CT. They are experts on exotics and extrmemly helpful. They sell miracle berry plants that they grow up here in CT. The place is amazing!http://www.logees.com/