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Ruben Porto

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Posts posted by Ruben Porto

    Home Made Ice Cream (2015– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    6 hours ago, Paul Bacino said:

    I made this stuff.. this weekend?  currently in the resting state.

     

    I used an Induction Plate,  but kind of a pain!!  The settings were 140 and 180F  I did do a pretty good job @ the 160F/1hr containment.  Next time I think I will try my roaster or crock pot with my Auber  PID temp. probe  I did see the Kitchen aid thing.  But I was wondering if a chemist knew of a controlled hot plate with a beaker stirring device that might work.

     

    Thanks  Paul

     

     

    Hi Paul!

     

    I use the IKA CMAG HS7 magnet stirring hot plate, which is very good, albeit expensive - http://www.amazon.com/IKA-3581201-Magnetic-Stirrer-Ceramics/dp/B00N52H6K2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451345649&sr=8-1&keywords=ika+hot+plate. There are some cheap used ones on e-bay that might be worth looking into.

     

    The stirring bar does occasionally skip when making small batches so I do have to hang whilst the HS7 does its thing.

     

    Happy to answer any questions. 

     

    All the best,

     

    Ruben

    • Like 1

    Home Made Ice Cream (2015– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    On 12/27/2015 at 5:06 PM, Jim D. said:

    No, all measurements are according to your recipes

     

    Hmm, interesting. Low overrun, or the amount of air incorporated into the ice cream, also contributes to fast meltdown. Which machine are you using and how long does it take you to churn a batch? You could try leaving your ice cream churning in your machine for another 5 minutes or so to increase overrun. You could also try increasing the egg yolks in the recipe to about 81g.

     

    Let me know how you get on.

    Home Made Ice Cream (2015– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    40 minutes ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:

    I was the one who suggested using a magnetic stirring hot plate, Ruben

     

    Oops. I knew I had you to thank for the stirring hot plate introduction Jo. :)

     

    The new 25 minute heating method does produce excellent texture but it is not quite as smooth as that produced by the longer heating time. I've introduced it purely to make my recipes more accessible to the home cook. I've also had to increase the fat content in the new method, which gives a slightly heavier ice cream and masks the flavour just a tad. Interesting to see that you use a higher fat content than I do. Let me know if you would like me to send through a copy of the spreadsheet I use to calculate my mixes.

    Home Made Ice Cream (2015– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    29 minutes ago, Jim D. said:

    Yes, that is the recipe I use.  Remember, you suggested I use the caramel ingredients but the 25-minute vanilla technique?

     

    Ah, I see. I wasn't sure whether you ended up going with the 25 minute method for the salted caramel. Interesting that the recipe took an hour to make. How long does the reduction process take in your 9" wok? I would recommend that you keep your mix at around 72°C for at least 25 minutes, even if you reach the desired reduction weight before then. The aim of the heating process is two-fold: 1. is to concentrate the mix, thereby increasing the non-fat-milk-solids, primarily the protein, which significantly contributes to smooth texture, and 2. to promote reversible protein unfolding, which, again, significantly contributes to smooth texture. If you don't heat for at least 25 minutes, you are unlikely to get the same rate of reversible protein unfolding and I'm certain that the texture won't be as smooth and creamy.

    Home Made Ice Cream (2015– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    Hi Jim!

     

    Good to hear the salted caramel turned out well after some slight tinkering. I've heard of Toscanini's burnt caramel flavour but just can't imagine it being all that nice. I'll have to give it a go the next time I'm over the other side of the pond.

     

    Have you tried the new 25 minute heating recipes on the blog Jim? Jo and Jim, have you looked into using a magnetic stirring hot plate to heat and stir your mixes? I think we already spoke about this Jo if my memory serves me well. There are some used hot plates on e-bay by IKA that are good. 

     

    Merry Christmas to all.

     

    Ruben

    Home Made Ice Cream (2015– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    Hi there Jim!

     

    There is indeed a recipe for salted caramel ice cream on the blog http://icecreamscience.com/homemade-salted-caramel-ice-cream-recipe/

    I haven't had time to install a 'next page' button on my recipes page so you can't see all of the recipes yet. I'll be updating the blog over the next couple of months.

     

    I'd recommend using the recipe and quantities from my vanilla bean ice cream recipe but follow the instructions on the salted caramel recipe for the caramel part.

     

    I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

     

    All the best,

     

    Ruben 

    Home Made Ice Cream (2015– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    Good afternoon!

     

    Has anyone tried the more scientific method of not heating up the icecream mixture past 71º to help prevent the development of that "eggy" and cooked milk flavour? Start reading about it recently and will definitely try!!

     

    A good evening to you Vasco!

     

    I have indeed tried the around 72°C heating method and I for one think it's a marvellous way to make ice cream! :)

     

    It takes a bit more time and effort but the results are certainly worth it.

     

    Feel free to send any questions my way.

    Home Made Ice Cream (2013– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    Hi Jim!

    I want to thank you for bringing a smile to this somewhat hideous face of mine. Your comments and feedback make the long nights writing up the recipes worth while.

    Your feedback has been noted and I will edit the recipe when I get time to reflect the number of lemons needed.

    Thank you for motivating me to keep going.

    All the best,

    Ruben

    • Like 1

    Home Made Ice Cream (2013– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    Hi Paul,

     

    I think you are very likely to develop the cooked milk flavour, as well as the eggy hydrogen sulphide flavour, if you heat your mix to 79°C and hold it there for 2 hours. I found that my mix developed a cooked milk flavour when I heated it to around 73°C for 60 minutes. I wouldn't recommend going above about 72°C.

     

    The sugar and total solids contents do indeed push up the temperature at which milk protein undergoes reversible unfolding. I haven't been able to measure the amount of irreversible denaturation that takes place but would love any information on this if you come across any.

     

    All the best,

     

    Ruben

    Home Made Ice Cream (2013– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    Hi Paul!

     

    Interesting to see you using sous vide to prepare your mix. I've been thinking about playing around with sous vide for a while now but simply haven't had the time to give it a go.

     

    I agree that keeping the temperature at 72°C prevents the cooked milk and the eggy hydrogen sulphide flavours from developing. I wouldn't recommend heating your mix to 85°C or 90°C for a prolonged period of time as this is highly likely to lead to irreversible protein denaturation, which is detrimental to texture. If you're using egg yolks, depending on the quantity you use, you are also likely to develop the hydrogen sulphide note in your ice cream.

     

    I would certainly recommend heating your mix for longer than 40 minutes as I have found better emulsification and foaming properties in the milk proteins with longer heating times. I would also suggest increasing your total solids count if you are experiencing icy texture.

     

    I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

     

    All the best,

     

    Ruben

    Home Made Ice Cream (2013– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

     

     

    Ruben, I'd love to see a revised chocolate recipe revolving around 25 mins.

     

    Luke

     

    Hi Luke,

     

    The chocolate recipe is now on my to-do list to say thank you for your feedback :)

     

    If you can't wait, try using the recipe for lemon curd and just substitute the chocolate ingredients for the lemon curd. That should work.

     

    Please do let me know how it turns out if you give it a go.

    Home Made Ice Cream (2013– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    Ruben,

    How do you find the current recipe with the powdered milk differs from your standard 60min recipe? Is one better than the other. I've been using the 1 hr method for years now to the delight of everyone that helps me finish off the ice cream and if you're saying we can switch over to 25 mins without negatively effecting the final product then I'm on board.

    BTW I have a spinning hot plate (per Ruben's post on his blog) and have had great results to date. I do incorporate some gelatin into the mix, per Momofuku Milk Bar (check out their Mind of a Chef episode on Netflix on desserts. Awesome stuff).

     

    Hi Tim,

     

    Great to hear you've been using the 60 minute technique for a while! I would say that the ice cream made using the 25 minute method produces ice cream that isn't quite as dry, stiff, and smooth as that made using the 60 minute method. I think this is because of the improvement in emulsification and foaming that results from longer heating times.

     

    I've also found that ice cream made using the 25 minute method takes longer to freeze in the machine (35 minutes compared to about 25 minutes for the 60 minute method). I have also had to increase the fat content in the 25 minute method to achieve smooth and creamy results, which makes an ice cream that is a bit heavier. And of course there is the inclusion on skimmed milk powder, which some people may object to.

     

    The 25 minute method does produce excellent smooth and creamy ice cream, but I've found that longer heating times really do have a huge effect on texture. I've also played around with a 35 minute heating method, which I found made ice cream that was ever so slightly lighter and creamier than the 25 minute method.

     

    I got a lot of feedback on the blog from people who wanted to try the recipes but were put off by long heating times. I hope that by bringing the heating time down to a reasonable 25 minutes, more people will be encouraged to try the recipes.

     

    If you do try the 25 minute recipe, I would love your feedback on how the ice cream compares to that made using the 60 minute heating method. 

     

    Hope that helps.

     

    All the best,

     

    Ruben

    Home Made Ice Cream (2013– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    Ruben,

    I am anxious to try your lemon curd ice cream but am reluctant until I solve the problem with the Cuisinart of having a substantial amount of the base freeze on the side of the bowl.  It is very difficult to remove this frozen edge, and its texture is not pleasant--which makes the effort you put into keeping the ice cream smooth and not icy close to pointless.  I tried your suggestion of pushing the plastic blade/mixer/dasher against the side of the bowl, but this interfered with the rotation of the bowl--to an alarming degree (the motor sounded "stressed").  With my efforts at making ice cream so far, I have just waited for the frozen part to melt a bit and then used an immersion blender to mix it into the rest of the product; this is clearly counteracting the whole point of making the process as fast as possible.  Any other ideas?

     

    Jim

     

    Hi Jim,

     

    Ice cream freezing to the side of the freezer bowl seems to be a common theme on domestic ice cream makers. The Cuisinart ICE-30 is one of the better ones as the large hole in the lid does allow you to push the dasher against the side of the bowl. I understand what you mean by this interfering (to an alarming rate) with the rotation of the bowl. My ICE-30 always struggles whenever I do this and this struggle only intensifies as the ice cream hardens. I would say that I've had my ICE-30 for nearly 6 years now and it is still going strong. I don't think you should be too worried by the strain placed on the motor.

     

    I've also noticed that even when I don't push the dasher against the side of the bowl, the ICE-30 still makes excellent ice cream with smooth and creamy texture. Although not ideal, a layer of ice freezing at the side of the bowl won't ruin your ice cream.

     

    Are you able to use a wooden spoon to scrape off the layer that freezes to the bowl when you're emptying? It takes me a bit of effort but I've always managed to scrape everything off my bowl.

     

    I wouldn't recommend using an immersion blender to mix your frozen ice cream as this is likely to cause the foam to partially collapse and the ice cream to lose some of the air that has been incorporated. 

     

    So, although annoying, I've found that a layer of ice cream freezing to the side of the bowl won't mean coarse texture and I haven't found it too tricky or time consuming scraping this off when emptying.

     

    Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

     

    All the best,

     

    Ruben

    Home Made Ice Cream (2013– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    A very nice write up, Ruben!  I confess I have not made ice cream all winter...for various reasons related to the beverage forums.  I almost bought a second freezer last month, and I still might if I can save up for a couple months.  I miss my ice cream.

     

    If I do make some, and can find good powdered milk, I will try your recipe.

     

     

    Look forward to your return to the ice cream making world Jo!

    Home Made Ice Cream (2013– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    Hi Elsie,

     

    The mix can be heated in a water bath as long as you use a large open pan so that it is reduced by 15%. It is indeed tricky and almost impossible to keep the temperature at exactly 72°C so don't worry if you go slightly over or under. The idea is to keep it at around 72°C and not let the temperature go higher for too long.

     

    Do let me know if you give it a try. 

     

    All the best,

     

    Ruben

    Home Made Ice Cream (2013– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    I churned the lemon curd ice cream tonight and I have to admit, I don't know exactly what to say.

     

    Wow! Double Wow! What a texture and flavour! This is one awesome ice cream. The flavour profile is spot on, this is not "lemon" ice cream, this is "lemon curd" ice cream.

     

    It puts all the effort of holding 72 deg C for 25 minutes into context. I think I just found my (new) favourite Ice Cream recipe...

     

    I made only one variation to the churn. I first mixed the custard base and the curd in a seperate bowl using a stick blender. As I use a kitchen aid frozen bowl, some ice cream will always set on the sides of the bowl, as you cannot force the blade against the side like you can in a cuisinart. To avoid flecks of unflavoured base in the ice cream (which could happen while removing the ice cream at the end), I mixed both together first and then added to the bowl combined. Other than that, this recipe is a gem.

     

    You have my respect Ruben, well done!

     

    Luke

     

     

    I love you Luke! Thank you so much for the kind words! I'm very happy to hear that the recipe turned out well; it makes the long nights writing up the recipes worth while.

     

    Interesting to hear that you got 11g of zest from 4 lemons. I used a potato peeler for my lemons, which I now know removes a lot more zest and skin. I found finely grating the lemons worked better and will update the recipe to reflect this. 

     

    I would like to ask whether you would mind just cutting and pasting your reply on here and popping it onto the comments section of the lemon curd recipe page on the blog if you get a minute. I think some people are put off trying the recipe by the 25 minute heating time and think that a comment reassuring them that it makes a big difference would push more people to try it. 

     

    Thanks again Luke! :)

    Home Made Ice Cream (2013– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    Hi Perrin,

     

    Yes at a relatively short 25 minutes heating time, I've found it dalmost impossible to get smooth and creamy texture without the increase in protein from the skimmed milk powder.

     

    Any feedback on the recipe if you do give it a try would be much appreciated! :)

    Home Made Ice Cream (2013– )

    in Pastry & Baking

    Posted

    Hi again Jo!

     

    My bad. '4.08% fat' should read 4.08% egg yolk.

     

    Try the following recipe if 15.75% sugar is too sweet:

     

     

    Cream 621g
    Milk 278g
    Skim milk powder 49g
    Sugar 161g
    Egg yolks 91g

     

    This will give you a mix containing 50.40% total solids, 21.32% fat, 10.05% non-fat milk solids, 14.96% sugar, and 4.07% egg yolks.

     

    I haven't tried this recipe yet but I suspect it will be quite rich because of the increase in fat from 20 to 21.32%, which may not actually be a bad thing. Just remember to use cream at 36% fat, milk at 2% fat, and reduce your mix by 19%.

     

    Please let me know the outcome if you give it a try.

     

    Feel free to send questions my way if you need help.

     

    All the best, Ruben

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