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JoNorvelleWalker

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Everything posted by JoNorvelleWalker

  1. Tonight was chicken mechoui, spit roasted. Chicken mechoui is such a wonderful dish but for me spit roasting anything is a pain so I don't do it very often. The results are worth it though. I served it with round bread and red olives.
  2. You have to have the pressure cooker to achieve a higher temperature for the caramelization. The PC is a worthwhile purchase. Digital scales are cheap, but you can use cups/tbsp/etc. I wing the SV setup at this point by using digital probes. Pacojets aren't for the home cook. I really would like to have a pressure cooker again. Maybe if there is enough left over from my tax refund. While I don't have a digital scale, I have a nice analog scale. It's just not very good for micrograms. The smallest division is 5 grams. To make the peanut butter gelato I first weighed out three tablespoons of xanthan gum, then calculated that 0.3 grams was approximately a third of a quarter teaspoon. Fortunately the recipe worked. I've been looking at some digital scales that will measure milligrams. Does anyone have thoughts or recommendations? I mentioned not having a pacoject only because MC@H devotes a full page to it! Not sure why I never got a microplane. Perhaps because they come in so many shapes and sizes.
  3. Emily, for the peanut butter I used "Natural Jif" which is not exactly pure peanuts but I like the taste. I lack the technology to produce smooth nut butters beyond my trusty mortar. I would like to make the recipe again using a commercially ground product that was just peanuts with no added salt or sugar. Note I made peanut butter gelato, not PB&J gelato. Here it is the season neither for strawberries nor for concord grapes. Though I do have an old unopened bottle of organic concord grape juice in the pantry that I may try. However I can't help but think the resulting color would be disgusting and I like the idea of plain peanut butter better. To save anyone confusion, the MC gelato recipe and the MC@H gelato recipe are different. Both recipes are said to produce similar results. Ruben, I had checked the pistachio sources from the blog post on your website. Callebaut is regionalized. If you select some countries you see pistachio paste as a product, but for the US they offer only hazelnut. I saw Whynut looked local but I did not ask if they exported. Because of the bioterrorism laws here, importing food or "food contact surfaces" (i.e. cookware) can be a nightmare. There is a local candy company that must use pistachio paste. Perhaps I will ask if they will sell me some or at least tell me who their suppliers are. By the way, can anyone tell me how the eG multiquote feature works?
  4. I'm having some of my peanut butter gelato from MC@H. Wonderful stuff. All the texture and mouthfeel of ice cream but with no egg or dairy. Easy to make. Particularly good, I would think, for those who do not care for custard. After a few hours of hardening the gelato was perfect for scooping. After a few days in the freezer it gets quite hard indeed, but no icyness develops. What I really would have liked to have made is MC@H pistachio gelato. Sadly I could find no pistachio butter or pistachio oil locally. Even more sad are the prices of the online sources. Question for anyone who can answer: are pistachio butter and pistachio paste the same thing?
  5. I have made espuma hollandaise (well, bearnaise actually), although not prepared sous vide. While good, I don't feel that using a siphon adds anything to the presentation of the sauce. I cook my hollandaise and bearnaise in a copper pot over direct heat. The pictures of the procedure on page 107 show the sauce being added to what looks an awfully lot like a Thermo Whip, with instructions to use a water bath -- something iSi says not to do. Tonight however I made my first real recipe from MC@H: peanut butter gelato (pp 370-371). I had set off to make pistachio gelato but was unable to find the ingredients locally. The result astounded me. Other than the salt being a little much, the gelato was perfect, and wow, did it taste like peanuts. I had three scoops. Then I compared it to a bowl of my twenty something percent butterfat custard vanilla ice cream. Texture, mouthfeel, and meltdown were remarkably similar. I had two more scoops. Would the MC version of the recipe be any better? MC@H is a beautiful book, but I have to say I am a little disappointed. I was hoping for something like On Food and Cooking, but with pretty pictures. I realize now that was not the intention of the book. Part of my disappointment is that I don't have the tools for many of the recipes. I'd love to make the caramelized carrot soup (pp 178-179), but I don't have a blender or a (working) pressure cooker -- part of my love/hate relationship with Cuisinart who don't sell replacement parts. Can the soup be made without the pressure cooking step? I also don't have a digital scale, pacojet, blowtorch, combi oven, microplane, microwave, nor sous vide setup.
  6. I did the experiment as best I could. The milk got up to 185.2, as when I lifted the pot off the stove at temperature, the burner cover stuck to the bottom of the pan! I was measuring seconds but I got a bit discombobulated. After a minute or so I cooled the pot in a water bath. The milk tastes fine to me for drinking -- which is good because there is a lot of it. I will leave further milk experiments to people with better equipment, more agility, or at least more milk. Maybe some whole egg in your custard would give more thickening at a lower temperature?
  7. Off topic: For tonight's almond munavalgekook I folded the batter with my hands. Best it has turned out. I could not decide, so I served two desert courses: cake, then ice cream. It seemed wrong to present them together.
  8. I prefer higher butterfat in ice cream than Migoya specifies. In my case, if I had dextrose, I would substitute it for a portion of the sucrose, as dextrose is less sweet than sucrose. Somewhere on the web there is an old paper (circa 1930, as I remember) on dextrose in ice cream. The researchers tested a large number of volunteers and found that with low butterfat people preferred an all sucrose formula, however at higher butterfat people preferred about 10 percent dextrose and 90 percent sucrose (the actual ratio is stretching my memory here). That being said, recently I've been able to make something that I like using only sucrose. I still would like to get some dextrose and atomized glucose to play with.
  9. A harder experiment with the (lack of) equipment that I have! Should be doable though, once I get more milk. However, although Migoya calls for a custard to be cooked at 185, McGee says 180, MC@H says 181, and Rose Levy Beranbaum says 170-180 ("Do not cook above 180").
  10. In order to help understand the relationship between temperature to which milk has been heated and taste I did the following experiment: Using homogenized, pasturized whole milk, Shoprite brand, as a control, I heated a pot of milk and took samples at increasing temperatures while raising the milk to a boil. I covered, labeled, and refrigerated all samples overnight. I then visually inspected, smelled, and tasted the samples. Results: uncooked No visible defects. Normal milk aroma and taste. 130 deg F/54.4 deg C No visible defects. Normal milk aroma and taste. 140 deg F/60 deg C No visible defects. Normal milk aroma and taste. 150 deg F/65.6 deg C No visible defects. Normal milk aroma and taste. 160 deg F/71.1 deg C No visible defects. Normal milk aroma and taste. 170 deg F/76.7 deg C No visible defects. Normal milk aroma and taste. 180 deg F/82.2 deg C No visible defects. Normal milk aroma and taste. 190 deg F/87.8 deg C Some visible protein denaturation. Acceptable milk aroma and taste. 200 deg F/93.3 Some visible protein denaturation. Acceptable milk aroma and taste. Boiled Visible protein denaturation, skin formed. Pronounced cooked flavor, reminiscent of ultra-pasteurized whole milk.
  11. I just wrote a long reply and lost it. Anyhow, it depends on the DE number of the maltodextrin. See the wikipedia entry under maltodextrin: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maltodextrin For the past couple of months I have been looking into atomized glucose as well as dextrose for additives for ice cream and sorbet. The manufacturer should specify DE number on their datasheet. A problem is that atomized glucose is typically sold in 5kg bags or buckets, which for a home user makes a lot of ice cream. In the US I have seen two suppliers of small quantities of atomized glucose that are probably repackaged and with no DE number specified. As is evident from reading this thread they may not know what they are selling. My own preference would be atomized glucose made from wheat rather than from corn. If you get some atomized glucose or maltodextrin or whatever and use it for making frozen dessert, please report in the ice cream thread!
  12. Last night I tried a somewhat lower butterfat version by Ruben's method but it was icy. I melted it down and respun with an added 250 ml heavy cream, 20g sugar, and about teaspoon more vanilla paste. This time not the least bit icy, and with no xanthan gum or other odd ingredients. So far I think this is the best batch of ice cream I have made. Unfortunately because it was a respin I do not have exact quantities of ingredients. The only defect is that it is rather hard to scoop. Something I have noticed over several batches: mix hardened in my SS hotel pan comes out better than the same mix hardened in plastic containers. I believe because steel is the better heat conductor.
  13. Even if we all can agree we can taste overcooked milk, we still don't have consensus on the temperature at which milk becomes "overcooked". There must be some temperature range below which milk does not taste cooked and above which it is overcooked. In the US, at least, milk must be pasteurized, so there is not much we can do about that unless one has a cow. With regard to pistachio paste, MC@H (p13) suggests a pacojet for preparing smooth nut pastes. Not inexpensive pehaps, but a bargain compaired with the industrial colloid mill Ruben mentions on his blog. Speaking of blogs, another site I might mention is Ice Cream Geek. I like to play with their Butterfat Calculator... http://www.icecreamgeek.com/?page_id=817 Edit: I rechecked Migoya. He does use powdered milk in his modern method formula, however he also calls for heating the mix to 85 deg C/185 deg F.
  14. I have not tried adding nonfat dry milk. As I recall Cook's Illustrated tested adding nonfat dry milk to ice cream and reported it was a bad idea. When you say you are not fond of the flavor of cooked milk, what cooking temperature are you basing this upon? The mix prepared by Ruben's method does not taste "cooked" to me. Another reason Ruben heats the milk is for pasteurization. McGee (p43) suggests heating to 170 deg F/76 deg C improves body and smoothness of ice cream by denaturing the whey proteins. But Ruben's temperature is much lower than whey denaturation temperature.
  15. Thanks! Interesting to learn the history.
  16. Recently I have been using this method: http://forums.egullet.org/topic/119838-the-best-way-to-cook-a-thick-steak/
  17. Ruben, what do you use to measure temperature? I made a batch of mix tonight, having finished my onion soup, and noticed some of the time my probe was not fully covered and the readings were low. Using a smaller diameter pot or making more mix at a time (or just being more careful) would be a possible solution to the problem. The pistachio sounds good to me too, but my vanilla needs more work before I try it.
  18. What is old KitchenAid and what is new KitchenAid? Mine is circa 1985.
  19. Here is a thread that might be of interest: http://forums.egullet.org/topic/44347-american-bread-recipes-with-european-flour/
  20. That is a pretty mill. I bake bread often and I also enjoy Cream of Wheat, polenta, and pasta. How is the Wolfgang for milling corn? Other than the choice of wheat is there any method to control the protein and ash content of the flour? I thought flour had to be aged. Raymond Calvel says: "Flour reaches its optmal level of maturation after a cold-weather rest period of 20 to 25 days." Do you age your flour in the refrigerator when you grind it at home?
  21. Could you list the recipe? I seem to be out of the ice cream making process at the moment, as the pot I use is currently full of onion soup. Oh, one thing I wanted to mention about the munalavgekook -- I had a piece from a portion of the last cake that I had frozen, the cake I had said was dry. It was a bit dense but not really dry. I think I may have been confusing dry with stale.
  22. I'm not worried about too much fat. I was more concerned with being off by an order of magnitude from what Slater intended and having a strange result. When I am familiar with a recipe, like soup, I tend not to measure either.
  23. What percentage of water? I usually use between 60 and 66 percent total water for my recipes using King Arthur organic white flour. (That's baker's percentage, with flour equal to 100%.)
  24. Dinner was three bowls of onion soup followed by a salad. Quite satisfactory. I had half a beautiful baguette I baked the night before. I sliced the baguette and toasted the rounds on a quarter sheet pan under the broiler. I then topped them with cheese and placed over the soup to be broiled on the other side. One substitution: Nigel Slater calls for Madeira. I used a splash of balsamic vinegar. Not that I don't keep Madeira in the kitchen, nonetheless finishing an onion soup with 1886 solara malmsey seems a bit excessive.
  25. And it would depend what shape the quarters were -- long and thin as most brands in the US, or short and squat as some. Nigel Slater loves poetic measurments. I actually weighed out 700g of onions, rather than the three medium onions called for. Soup is simmering.
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