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SpiritBob x

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  1. The reserve personnelle Armagnacs from Cerbois are aged eighteen to twenty-two years in general though I do not have notes on the exact specification of the 1900. But it would be safe to conclude that the 1900 would have tasted the same in the 1920s as it does today. Once brandy is transferred from vat to glass bottle the aging process ceases. That means that no matter how long you lay that bottle of special XO down that was given to you by your great-grandfather, aside from gathering dust, it is never going to change. This is also true once the cork is pulled. Unlike wine, oxygen is not the enemy of brandy. You can open any distilled spirit and leave it in the credenza indefinitely, it is not going to spoil provided you keep it upright to avoid possible spoilage through contact with the cork. Now that’s a relief, isn’t it? The idea is not to age it longer for developmental purposes, but rather to enjoy the experience and connection with the past and a different way of life that perhaps can be hinted at by understanding what the vintage tasted like in that specific year. I am sure these are very expensive at retail but do not know the exact price of that bottle. I saw some similar vintages in England recently for 400-600 pounds range. I participated in a very large group tasting so my share was very little for tastes of many. My budget does not allow such bottles for personal use. THough I do buy some that cost a bit, because you drink such small portions that they can last for years. ----- Robert Weaver
  2. First of all thank you for doing that research which I hope will spur Mr. Perlow to try some Armagnac at those very good prices. There are so many Armagnacs that even fanatics, and I am a low level one, have only tasted a few. On your list I am embarrassed to admit that I have tried only the Larresingle VSOP, the Grassa VSOP, and the Montesquieu Napoléon, and I only recorded tasting notes on the Larresingle. They're all excellent (you will hardly find a bad Armagnac exported and precious few locally either) but Larresingle is my favorite in that pricerange. See my notes above. Between the others, I would lean towards the Grassa because I favor the house style. ----- Robert Weaver
  3. Michelle perhaps you have never properly tasted a fine brandy, in particular an Armagnac. As with all wine and spirits, the choice of glassware is key. Riedel offers a different glass for young brandy versus aged brandy. They found in taste testing that when a refined mature brandy was tasted in stemware designed for the youthful spirit, the nuances of the bouquet were suppressed. They firmly believe, as I do, that the size and shape of the glass is essential. Ideally a tulip shaped glass with a tapered chimney is best, not a snifter. Rather than using a traditional snifter, some suggest to see people try a tulip-shaped Champagne glass. Do not swirl the brandy around in the glass and then immediately stick your nose in and inhale deeply as most people do wrongly. All you will succeed in doing is burning yourself inside the nose as the energetic alcohol esters, rising up to escape, singe your nasal passages. Gently warm the glass in your hand, (not over a flame please!). As the intense aromas emerge, their intoxicating fragrance fills the night air. Bouquet is such an important step in the enjoyment of this most beguiling libation. Luxuriate in all the delicate fragrances as they take flight. Hints of vanilla bean, English toffee, nougat, white pepper, delicate rose petals, lovely chocolate notes. This is what it’s all about. Don’t just swirl once and then take a big gulp. You will truly miss out on the best part. The seductive smell. Relish it, a little goes a long way. You can even try rubbing a drop on the back of your hand or forearm, as the experts do in blind tasting. Over time you will notice all of the sublime scents develop, dried apricots, prunes, butterscotch, peanut brittle, licorice, and violets. This method allows the subtleties to present themselves on the skin, rather than in the glass. It removes the burn of the alcohol and is a much easier way for the taster to unveil the mysteries in the glass. Plus the really good news, Armagnac, in moderation, is actually good for you. It’s not called a digestif for no reason. It will definitely aid in ones digestion after a lavish feast. ----- Robert Weaver
  4. Both Armagnacs and Cognacs can get expensive but dollar for dollar you will always get better value from Armagnac. Pick any Armagnac at random at same price point as a highly ranked Cognac and the Armagnac will show better I am sure of it. ----- Robert Weaver
  5. Jason, I've tried all but one of the Cognacs you list and not found any of them impressive. It's been years since I've tasted a Congac worth its price. In the brandy category I drink Armagnac, Cognac’s not so distant cousin to the south in Gascony, exclusively. Rather than being mass produced, as even nearly all the "best" Cognac is today. Armagnac, on a much smaller scale, and in my opinion of far superior quality, is truly a brandy to be reckoned with. It is still being made in a very artistic manner, by skillful, accomplished artisans who take a great deal of pride in their final product. Let’s begin with a few facts. Armagnac production dates back to the early 15th century. It is a produced from white wine grapes, primarily Folle Blanche, Ugni Blanc and Colombard. It is always aged in cask, usually the local Monlezun black oak is used. However in recent years, due to environmental concerns, as their forest was being depleted, some producers have switched to Limousin oak, a perfectly acceptable substitute. The minimum alcohol content is 40 percent. Cognac is distilled twice, whereas Armagnac, in general, is only distilled once. For this reason it is allowed more time in cask to evolve, with the end result being a much more integrated brandy with more finesse and roundness. It is very often a blend of mixed vintages. This means that the age on the label is reflecting the youngest wine in the blend. There may, and usually is, many much older vintages in the assemblage. Ages in cask will range from 2 years (VS) to a minimum of 10 years (Hors d’Age). VSOP and Reserve must be aged at least 5 years, whereas XO and Napoleon will be a mandatory minimum of six years. The industry insiders I know, noting the dramatic rise in the price of Cognac recently, agree that Armagnac offers the consumer a far superior. Jason, here are some tasting notes I've made lately tasting Armagnacs. Welcome to the world of Armagnac! Armagnac tasting notes: Larressingle: VSOP: pale color, wood dominates on the nose, brown sugar & honey with a touch of almonds and anise. XO: caramel color, medium-bodied, very round on the palate, beautiful finesse. Excellent for the price! Domaine Boingneres: 1985 Bas-Armagnac, Folle Blanche: golden hue, classic scent of prunes, almond bark, intense aromas of cinnamon & spice. 1979 Bas-Armagnac, Folle Blanche: sweet plums, orange aromas, marzipan, with a touch of wood. 1976 Bas-Armagnac, Ugni Blanc: raspberry, summer fruit, hint of caramel and maple syrup, a bit robust. 1959 Bas-Armagnac, Folle Blanche: dry on the palate, wonderful complexity, rich viscosity, layers of flavors unfold, cedar, walnut hints of peaches. 1972 Chateau de Ravignan: concentrated dried fruits, prune, raisin, vanilla bean and toffee notes. 1982 F. Darroze, Bas-Armagnac Domaine du Martin: amber color, bright wood scent meshes with floral nuances, touch of spice. 1900 Bas-Armagnac, Folle Blanche Reserve Personnelle, Cerbois: great finesse, mellow, intense woody and nutty aromas integrated with floral fragrances. Delord, 40 year old: dark amber color, unctuous body and mouth feel, complex aromas with many layers of flavors unfolding, very smooth and refined, long lingering finish. ----- Robert Weaver
  6. Jason they are one in the same! When we speak of Muscat we mean Muscat Blanc. There are also three other Muscat grapes (Alexandria, Hamburg, and Ottonel) but Blanc is the one used most in the production of wine for the table. The very same grape is call Muscat in France and Moscato in Italy. The scent of Muscat is easily recognized many people call it "orange." But it occurs in a very wide variety of wine styles because once the grape is grown it can be picked at different times and it also can be subject to different techniques of viticultural manipulation. All those wine producting countries in the Mediterranean basin make their own style from this grape and they can range from feather-light and bone-dry, to low-alcohol sparkling, to very sweet and alcoholic almost syrupy, even fortified wines too! ----- Robert Weaver
  7. You may find that some Moscato D’Asti is not as sweet a vino as you think! Some are barely off-dry. At the larger wine shops a reputable salesman may be able to guide you to the less sweet ones. Also served ice cold suppresses some sweetness so it changes the character. ----- Robert Weaver
  8. Eggs, the great challenger to wine! Also tomatoes and vinegar present challenges to the wine lover. But for eggs and that would include carbonara sauce which is based on eggs, this is the reason you find it hard to match I am certain, the secret is to choose a vino with effervescence to "cut through" the egginess. Your Sancerre rose has that slight fizziness of youth not actual carbonation but enough to dance on the tongue. I think that is what draws you to it. Even better I would suggest a true bubbly with eggs, and with carbonara perhaps a bubbly rose would be lovely, lovely. ----- Robert Weaver
  9. Hot summer wines should be simple; light and refreshing and maybe a bit effervescent with low alcohol, great acidity and the versatility to marry well with many different summertime favorite foods. They should be able to show well when served chilled – well chilled (whites: 45-50 degrees/ Reds: 50-55 degrees or even a bit lower). Rosé, it is such a versatile choice with summertime fare, whether it’s cold chicken, shrimp on the “barby” or the annual family wiener roast, rosé is a sure winner and I drink a ton of it! From Southern France I like Mas de Gourgonnier and Chateau de Peyrassol. And from the USA Joseph Phelps Grenache Rose. Delightful German whites are always a good choice when you want a wine that’s full of flavor, yet low in alcohol. As Mr. Perlow says correctly Rieslings are great for that. Also wines made in that style like Austrian Gruner Veltliner (Hirtzberger is terrific), Alsatian Pinot Blanc or Gewürztraminer, or Oregon Pinot Gris like from Ponzi. Of course a flute of bubbly is so appropriate in the hot sun that it may trounce all the competition. Billecart Salmon! Also Spanish Albarino or ice cold Manzanilla Sherry. You mentioned Loire reds. There are some good ones. Try Lucien Crochet red and white, widely available. Great for full flavored seafood, really anything but shellfish. The loire is underrated. (Edited by Spirit Bob at 3:47 pm on July 20, 2001) ----- Robert Weaver
  10. SpiritBob x

    Sherry

    The Sherries of Emilio Lustau are very available and very wonderful, but with Sherry as with Armagnac and German whites and other wines not so much in demand, you have the luxury of not having to worry too much about specific producers. There's so much good sherry available and US demand is so low while the US dollar is so sought that the importers will not and do not need to buy anything but the best for each price. So a retailer or restaurant of any repute will not have a bad Sherry most likely. What is very important though is freshness especially in the area of Finos and Manzanillas. Try to learn the date of shipment or if it is a restaurant you must know when the bottle was first open. ----- Robert Weaver
  11. SpiritBob x

    Sherry

    We all remember our first, (and no doubt last), sip of Grandma’s cream sherry when we were visiting at the holidays. Sherry’s reputation is still recovering from the damage done by the Bristol Cream era. Today’s consumer looks at Sherry as they would some odd archeological fossil at the Museum of Natural History. It is truly a shame that Sherry is considered such a dinosaur. Handcrafted Sherry can be one of the greatest taste explosions you can experience in wine. I will grant you, it is an acquired taste for most people, but one well worth acquiring in my opinion. The added bonus, Sherry is one of the best deals on the market today. It is a fortified wine. However, in contrast to other fortified wines, it is fermented out completely dry. There are basically two styles: the bone-dry Fino and Manzanilla, and the darker, richer dry Amontillado and dry Oloroso. These wines are highly esteemed by connoisseurs for their complex, intriguing layers of flavor. They are made for food! Once you understand more, you can easily select a different Sherry for every course, from your aperitif through cheese and dessert. The delicate flavors pair splendidly with fresh seafood, seviche and are a match made in heaven for tapas, the regional hors d’oeuvres from Spain. With tapas bars popping up all over New York, Fino and Manzanilla are the quintessential beverages of choice. Fino: Fino Sherry needs to be fresh, so it is a good idea to order it in a half bottle, as the Spaniards do. A fresh Fino will have an alcohol level of 15.5% or so, slightly higher than table wine, but not by today’s standards. The unique bouquet should be fresh and fragrant of flor, the local yeast used in Sherry production. Flor forms a bread-like film across the surface of the barrels, protecting the wine from oxidation. Manzanilla: This belongs in the Fino class. Manzanilla is produced in the town of Sanlucar de Barraneda, on the sea. The aroma of the salt air is so fragrant in the bouquet of Manzanilla. It has a beautiful, very distinct nose. As with all Fino, the color will be a very pale, straw color. Dry Amontillado: You will find this bouquet much more redolent of nuts; primarily almonds, hazelnuts and walnuts. The color will be a richer shade of amber, and will darken as they mature. These wines will be higher in alcohol, typically 17-18%, although with age they can reach 24%. Dry Oloroso: These wines have more mouth feel, and are richer, more full bodied, or in the Spanish lexicon “gordura” (fatness). The color will be a darker golden, and with age can become brown. The alcohol will be similar to an Amontillado. They will have a pungent bouquet and although dry, they may have just a touch of sweetness. Palos Cortados: These wines are somewhat rare and not produced in every vintage. Their taste is reminiscent of an Amontillado but they have the body of a rich Oloroso. Pedro Ximenez: (PX) The grape varietal in this case is also the name of the wine. The grapes are picked very ripe, allowed to shrivel in the sun for two or three weeks and then pressed. The result is often described as an unctuous, raisin colored wine. Delicious! Old East India: An older, sweet Oloroso. Full-bodied with a superb flavor profile for so many desserts. Look for the word “Almacenista” on the label, which denotes a private stockholder. Well worth extra cost. The lower the alcohol on a Fino and Manzanilla Sherry the better, usually around 15-16%. When shopping for Amontillado and Oloroso, look for the word “dry” on the label. ----- Robert Weaver
  12. SpiritBob x

    Decanting

    To decant or not to decant, that is the question. And rather a controversial one at that. There are different schools of thought on decanting as a necessary step in wine service. Nevertheless, I am very confident in my reasoning after tasting many, many bottles over the years. Basically, there are two reasons we decant: Reason #1: To enjoy an older wine at its’ best. Reason #2: To enjoy a young wine at its’ best. In other words I decant almost all wine, though not Champagne or the hot summer whites discussed on the other thread. But as to why I decant each I do it for different reasons. Let’s begin with the older wine. Nestled away in the cellar, allowed to evolve over maybe twenty or thirty years, it has matured to perfection. It should, in my opinion, be treated with kindness and gentleness and shown the respect it deserves. Wine is after all a living, breathing organism. A fact so many people tend to forget. It is very important to decant older wines just before you are planning on serving them. Depending on the wine and its’ fragility, it will begin to deteriorate the minute it comes into contact with oxygen. Some, much more quickly than others. So timing is essential! Stand the wine upright for a day or so before decanting, in order to have the sediment fall to the bottom. Or use a decanting cradle carefully if you don't have advance notice. Open the bottle carefully and clean the lip well. Start to pour very slowly into the decanter, while looking through the shoulder of the bottle, which can be illuminated with the flame of a candle or a flashlight. Stop pouring as soon as you see any sediment pass over the light. The remaining wine in the bottle can be strained into a separate container, using cheesecloth or a coffee filter. It won’t taste the same as the first run pour, though -- so never filter any more wine than is necessary. However, it is often very palatable. There is absolutely no question in my mind that decanting, when done correctly, works! Cleaning it up allows the wine to be served at its’ peak flavor profile. Its texture is soft and velvety. The bitter, astringent flavor of sediment is gone. The color and clarity of the wine in the glass speaks for itself. The bouquet is bright and beautiful. Sleeping beauty wakes up! The next scenario is decanting young wine. The main reason is to give a youthful vino a much needed boost of oxygen, allowing it to develop and come to life quicker. If it is too cold, it will warm up much quicker in a decanter than in the bottle. A big, white Burgundy, tight and closed in, will open up considerably after decanting. Don’t be intimidated about decanting white wine. Thankfully today many winemakers have stopped fining and filtering their wines, due in large part to the power of Robert Parker. Consequently, even a one or two year old California Zinfandel can throw sediment. A young, tannic Barolo will come to life after being allowed to breathe for a time in a larger vessel. There are no hard and fast rules as to time. I open and decant right before a meal and drink at an appropriate time. ----- Robert Weaver
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