Chef Hermes Blog
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Promotion for any chef of genuine French heritage and immediate 2 star listing for any chef of genuine French heritage who has opened on these shores since the 2011 edition.
No promotion or acknowledgment for any British chef who's miles better, both in terms of execution and creativity though...
So originally hailing from Kent & now based in Cornwall, how does Nathan Outlaw fit in then?
:laugh: :laugh: Take your point though.
As there were only 4 rising stars last year (hardly a bumper crop)& a plethora of new openings; Heston & Jason Atherton, is there going to be time to give proper reviews?
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As I was told this yesterday & probably tweeted it, I thought I'd better share it on here as well.
The Michelin Red book is going to be released in October this year, rather than January. Apparently to bring it into line with other UK guide books. So as this will leave as shorter window for inspections what are the thoughts on any movements or inclusions?
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Rhubarb Jam
5kg Rhubarb
6kg Preserving sugar (high in pectin)
75g Fresh ginger, coarsely chopped
10 Lemons
780g Water
* Cut the Rhubarb and place in to a bowl big enough to include the sugar.
* Cover with the sugar and allow to stand overnight.
* Place into a suitable sized thick bottomed pan & add the water.
* Squeeze the lemons and add the juice to the pan.
* Reserve the pips & place into a muslin bag along with the chopped up ginger.
* Bring to the boil quickly and skim, continue to boil until 110°C (or Jam).
* Place in sterilised jars and steam for 25 minutes & then chill.
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Wild Garlic is coming along in abundance, I have this patch not too far from home
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I would recomend Fire and Knives, a quarterly publication. It isn't so much about cooking but contains some of the best food writing around, great art, typography and, essential I think, a sense of humour. It's philosophy seems to me to be, it's only food, let's have some fun with it...
....And no. I am not the publisher, printer, writer or otherwise, of Fire And Knives.
Fire & Knives is a quality publication, just over a year old published by freelance Journo Tim Hayward. Who, if anybody follows him on Twitter enjoys that then the mag will be right up your street.
We did an interview with him late last year, very entertaining and yet a font of knowledge.
Shame it is only published quarterly, although from small acorns grow & all that..
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As the blog has a virtual library we use Dropbox. Can be accessed by multiple computers & iphone app as well.
Nearly all our recipes are created in word then a PDF version is created.
To give you an idea of size, the free version of Dropbox is 2GB & ours is full already
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Warm Onion Bavarois
* 300g Sweet Onion purée
* 250g Whole milk
* 150g Whipping cream
* 150g Chicken stock (or fresh vegetable nage, not stock cubes)
* 3.5g Gellan gum
* Seasoning
Lightly grease with vegetable oil the moulds you intend to use (darioles, ramekins etc) and set to one side.
In a pan (but not on the heat), whisk together all the ingredients.
Place on a medium heat and whisk continuously, the mix will start to thicken slightly. Carry on whisking for a further 3-4 minutes when it has started to bubble. Then quickly pour into the greased moulds & chill.
To reheat for serving, just place the ramekin in a pan of water and simmer gently for 8-10 mins.
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Feedback from last night seems to be, promotions for L'enclume, Sat Bains & Hibiscus.
Some chefs seemed to be under the impression that they were going to get a sneak preview
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Had a very good look around over the past two days (including previous known URL's for Michelin) & nothing.
Offically it will go live on Michelin's website at 11:40 GMT, will have some tip bits through tonight from the Chef's gathering.
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Absolutely stunned this hasn't leaked yet - anyone heard anything "on the inside"?
Spoke to several people, seems very under wraps this year. There maybe something after the Chefs dinner on Monday night if not look out just before noon on Tuesday
Not that the blog is on the inside, we just talk to people nicely
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Got this from a source in Ireland;
Gregan Castle for a star, if not this year maybe next.
As Ireland as a whole is sadly lacking stars, the more the merrier.
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Here's one to throw in from left field.
Hastings in Lytham, former head of Northcote Manor & Stanley House. Warrick Dodds.
Anybody been?
Heard one or two things but nothing really conclusive and lets face it Michelin always occasionally throws up an unknown gem this time of year.
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@JudyB;
Restaurant websites are notoriously slow to be updated and so wouldn't put it that that they were misleading the punters (it actually says Restaurant Gordon Ramsay above the door, & he's never there
:laugh: )@felix
Have several sources within GRH & all say the same thing, so guess it's a matter of time.
The one thing that they all say is that the loss of a rosette in September didn't matter as all that counted was the red book in Jan.
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Cant see it happening (GR losing one that is) maybe for 2012guide but with Mark Askew back in the kitchen at RHR it has brought a level of stability to the kitchen.
Rumours are circulating that Claire Smyth will be bankrolled by GR into opening her own place
When did he come back? I went there three times last year, and never saw him. But well, that kitchen seems to do what it does pretty well. Like it or not, I doubt that it had a stability problem.
Was lead to believe about 3-4months ago, maybe longer
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It is true in general, to be fair, that chefs get treated like royalty and so their (public) opinions on other chefs ought to be taken with a pinch of salt (and, they may have all sorts of motives). More interesting are their private opinions, when one manages to extract them...
Known chefs, probably. The rest of us not so.
Can equate with the private opinions comment though, when we chatted to a starred individual about our leak on the GFG, he baulked at Nathan Outlaw getting best seafood restaurant. Yet publicly they appear to be best of mates
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Cant see it happening (GR losing one that is) maybe for 2012guide but with Mark Askew back in the kitchen at RHR it has brought a level of stability to the kitchen.
Rumours are circulating that Claire Smyth will be bankrolled by GR into opening her own place
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Seem to be hearing the same rumour, that there is a new 3 star.
Smart money seems to be on MW with Gidleigh & Ledbury as outsiders.
Funnily enough nobody has mentioned Le Manoir
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Twice Baked Emmenthal Soufflé
* 135g Flour
* 135g Butter
* 800ml Milk
* 475g Emmenthal, grated
* 1 tblspn Dijon mustard
* 225g Egg yolks
* 450g Egg whites
Butter and line 20 6oz moulds with polenta & reserve.
In a large thick bottomed pan put the butter on to melt over a medium heat, at the same time in a different pan start to heat the milk.
Add the flour to the butter to make a roux that will look like wet sand.
When the milk start to come to the boil, remove from the heat. Gradually, add the the roux in 4 or 5 stages making sure that milk is fully incorporated before adding the next batch.
After all the milk has been added reduce the heat and gentally stir for 5 minutes before removing from the stove.
Add the grated cheese, followed by the mustard and the egg yolks.
Whisk the egg whites until at hard peaks and remove 1/3 to beat into the cheese base, then pour this cheese base back on to the remaining egg whites and fold in.
Pour in to the pre-lined moulds up to 3/4′s of the way.
Cook in a bain marie for 5 minutes @250°c, then turn the oven down to 180°c
Remove from the oven and allow to rest still in the bain marie before turning out.
When ready for serving, in the bottom of the serving dish pour some cream, top that with a generous sprinkle of grated emmental, then the soufflé then repeat with more cream & cheese.
Bring up to the boil directly on the stove then pop in the oven at 200°c for 10 minutes. Serve straight away.
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Interesting piece from Richard Vines polling chefs on their star predictions, L'Anima comes heavily recommended by many, although this will be the 3rd year it's been tipped.
Other names mentioned: Marcus Wareing for 3, L'Enclune for 2, Sat Bains for 2, also Petit Maison seems to come highly recommended:Article here
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Still have the golbal whetstone & holder bought 20 years ago, have gone through several makes of knives but now moving towards the japanese style with MAC, Shun & Kin in the current collection. It's fine to put an edge on but to get that razor sharpness just finish with a very fine steel.
Cant recommend anything that drags the knife through rollers or anything else.
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I hadn't realised Martin Blunos had started cooking again. He's one of my favourite chefs - his boiled egg and soilders is a work of art. Can't wait to try the new venue.
Oh yes, he's been busy beavering away with not only doing Iron Chef for CH4 but demos as well as consulting at various hotels.
The Story was posted on the blog on Nov 4th, well before any other website
Although still awaiting a confirmed opening date. -
Spiced Pineapple Chutney
* 2kg Pineapple
* 100ml White wine vinegar
* 1 Cinnamon stick
* 2g Cardamom seeds
* 5g Curry powder
* 2g Fresh ginger
* 2g Ground clove
* 190g Castor sugar
Toast the seeds of the cardamom gently for 5 minutes, then crush them.
Peel all of the pineapple and remove the core, then dice quite finely (1cm cubes), save all the juices that come out.
Place the vinegar, pineapple juice & spices in a suitable pan and simmer for 5 minutes.
Add the pineapple and cook for 15 ~ 20 minutes until tender.
Stir in the sugar and continue to cook until it is at the right consistency.
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Our tip for a star 2012 (yes thats right, 2 guides time), Martin Blunos at the Thistle Cardiff.
Mr Blunos has the kind of track record with Michelin that would make any chef green with envy, 2 stars twice for over 15 years and then 1 with the Lygon Arms. We broke the story first and to date don't even know when the revamped Hamons restaurant will re-open under Blunos.
But if he's give the tools to do the job, you'd put your house on it.
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Do believe I mentioned him earlier on in this thread.
Our '5Questions' series of posts generally hinges on the participants holding a star but will generally accept 3rosettes as well for the bench mark.
To Walnut Tree or not?
in United Kingdom & Ireland: Dining
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I wrote about the Walnut tree as part of my 'Cheaper Eats' series. Even though Mr Hill wasn't in attendance I still had a great meal.
The Bakewell tart really was a thing of beauty.
Highly recommended