edo
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Posts posted by edo
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Mixology Monday over on my blog Wordsmithing Pantagruel, so I'm starting this thread for people to post submissions to in case they have no blog, or just prefer this venue. The theme for this MxMo is "Bein' Green"; details from my announcement post:With the warm days of summer now fading off into the distance in our rear view mirrors, let's pay one last tribute to the greens of summer before the frosts come and our outdoor herb gardens give up the ghost for the winter. For our theme for this month, I have chosen: (it's not easy) "Bein' Green." (Perchance due in no small part to my predilection for Green Chartreuse.) I'm giving you a wide berth on this one, anything using a green ingredient is fair play. There's not only the aforementioned Chartreuse; how about Absinthe Verte, aka the green fairy. Or Midori, that stuff is pretty damn green. Crème de menthe? Why not? Douglas Fir eau de vie? Bring it! Apple schnapps? Uh...well...it is green. I suppose if you want to try to convince me it makes something good you can have at it. But it doesn't have to be the liquor. Limes are green. So is green tea. Don't forget the herb garden: mint, basil, cilantro, you name it - all fair game. There's also the veritable cornucopia from the farmers market: green apples, grapes, peppers, olives, celery, cucumbers...you get the idea. Like I said, wide berth. Base, mixer, and or garnish; if it's green it's good. Surprise me. Use at least one, but the more the merrier.
As usual, here's how to play:
- Find or concoct a drink recipe that uses at least one green ingredient or significant garnish
- Make the drink, and post a photo, the recipe, and any thoughts or commentary you have on your blog, or alternatively to this thread on eGullet's Spirits and Cocktails forum (if you have no blog)
- Include in your post the above MxMo logo, as well as a link back to both the Mixology Monday site and this post on Wordsmithing Pantagruel. Once I post the roundup of all submissions, a link to that post as well is always appreciated.
- Let me know about your submission (by Monday Oct 15th) by posting a link to your post in the comment section on this post (preferred), or by gmail to wordsmithingpantagruel.
- Most importantly, have fun.
Do all that by midnight Monday Oct 15th and then check back here for a roundup post including all submissions. (As long as you get it in by the time I get around to finishing the roundup post, I'll try to include any stragglers.)
Looking forward to seeing what people come up with.
- Find or concoct a drink recipe that uses at least one green ingredient or significant garnish
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Last Wednesday I went to try the tasting menu at Compose, and came away quite happy. There were a couple misses, but more than enough hits to make up and a few real standouts. In addition, it was a real pleasure to dine there, the room has a cozy feel and the service is quite warm. I love Momofuku Ko, but I'd never highlight the service there. At Compose however, you get a comparable style of dining but with a comfortable room and doting service. My 3 favorite dishes were the "Ocean Sphere" (spherified oyster emulsion with pickled shallots and seaweed dust), The Apple & Pine dessert with wood and hay, and the seared fresh Ibérico de Bellota. Obviously the first two were more interesting technique while the pork was all about the ingredient.
ocean sphere:
Ibérico de Bellota:
As much as I loved the dinner I may be more excited about dropping in for a cocktail, as they looked really good and I love the feel of the room; that and I live only a few blocks away. Anyone else tried the place yet?
more pics and notes on every course here:
http://www.wordsmithingpantagruel.com/2011/02/compose-nyc-exciting-intimate-chefs.html
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Here's my post, I tried to make a more respectable Chocotini: http://www.wordsmithingpantagruel.com/2010/12/mxmo-liii-like-that-youll-love-this.html
in short:
Dark Daze
* ¾ oz Clément Rhum Vieux Agricole VSOP
* ¾ oz Bulldog London Dry Gin (or some other not too assertive gin)
* ¾ oz Mozart Dry Chocolate Spirit*
* ¾ oz Dolin Blanc
* 1 dash to ¼ oz rich (2:1) simple syrup**
* 2 dashes Regan's orange bitters #6
Stir and strain, orange twist garnish.
* or substitute ½ oz white Crème de cacao and omit simple syrup. That kinda defeats the purpose, but at least it's not vodka and still has some bitters
** For the simple syrup, I prefer just a dash for a dryer cocktail, but if you are trying to win over an actual chocolate martini drinker, the ¼ oz makes it a pretty sweet drink. remember to omit if you've subbed Crème de cacao for the Mozart Dry
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I'm going for dinner on Wed with 3 other guys at the sushi bar, 6pm first seating. I didn't request Yasuda's station, but I'll try when I confirm the res later, but I assume we will sit with someone else. Is there even room for a party of 4 at his station?
My real question is how to order. The four of us like variety, eat anything, and have large appetites, and are willing to spend whatever to get what is good. What's the best way to communicate this? Also, I guess we only have 90 min as the next seating is at 7:30 I think. Is that enough time to mostly fill us up?
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for what it's worth, I had a pleasant wine experience with the sommelier when I asked them to pair wines with my courses. granted it was opening night so they were less than half full so he may not have as much time compared to when it's busier.
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There was definitely not a tasting menu listed on the printed menu for the night, but I'm not sure if they offered one if requested. We we not up for a full tasting when we were there, but I had intended to ask out of curiosity but I got distracted and it slipped my mind. So I'm not sure, sorry.
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Well, it's not like I got permission to take pictures, but I wasn't asked not to so I figured I'd be discreet and stop if requested. That's why I didn't get a pic of every dish and a couple quick shots I took were not exactly in focus. I wasn't going to post the menu except I saw it posted somewhere else first so figured it wouldn't hurt.
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So I checked Lincoln out tonight, and I'm a fan. I know it's the first night, but I'd tentatively compare it to Marea (which I love), even if Lincoln currently has a slightly less ambitious menu. By far my favorite dish of the night was the "Terrina di Fegato Grasso, Coniglio e Animelle", or Foie Gras, Rabbit and Sweetbread Terrine with Plums and Lettuces:
It was a real standout, one of my favorite dishes in recent memory. Our other favorite was the lasagna. I've got more pics and full commentary here:
http://www.wordsmithingpantagruel.com/2010/09/lincoln-opening-night-at-bennos-new.html
I included the full menus and prices if you want to check them out.
It's not per se, but it's not trying to be. That doesn't mean it's not great, which it is. Plus it was opening night and I can only assume it will get better from here.
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I'm checking it out on Friday 9pm and will try to report. I know there will be hiccups opening night but I was available and I'm excited. I also inquired about proper attire and was told they were expecting lots of pre-theater guests so it was not too formal, I don't recall the exact terms used. I don't know what menus they will offer so I'll go with the flow, but I'll get a tasting if offered and the wife is up for it.
I had not heard about the camera policy, I plan to bring a small one to get some shots but I guess we'll see. I'd think they would welcome the attention, at least at first.
Stay tuned...
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Nice! Looks like they have the fried minnows in the fritto misto? I had them as a Lupa special once and loved those little buggers.
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I actually have a recipe I saved from GQ back in Feb '05, and it comes from Mark Ladner back when he was the chef at Lupa before moving to Del Posto. He calls for dried pasta, salt and pepper, equal parts butter and olive oil, and a mix of Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano. I've made it and it's pretty close to Lupa's, I assume the difference was mainly user, ie my, error. Lupa is my favorite anywhere, although I have not triad Maialino's. I have the recipe scanned in my email, but probably not kosher to post it here I suppose.
Also note that Batali's Eataly opened yesterday, I went by today and noticed they offer Cacio e Pepe at the pasta place in the complex. Didn't get to try it but presumably it would be similar to Lupa's; at least that's what I'm hoping.
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Yeah, this place is great. I went this afternoon on the late side, and spent too much time wandering and by the time I was ready to get some food all they restaurants had shut down to prep for dinner service because they got so slammed they ran out of food:
They were going to reopen at 5:30.
Just as well, I got stuff to go and ate at home. More pics here: http://www.wordsmithingpantagruel.com/2010/09/eataly-batalis-new-york-italian.html
I definitely need to get back there to check out some of the restaurants, the stuff I saw looked great.
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Tonight was the opening night of Colicchio&Sons, in the previous Craftsteak space. There they are doing more composed dishs like they served at Tom:Tuesday Dinner. Bottom line: great stuff very similar to what they were serving at those nearly impossible to get into meals. I put up more pics and commentary at http://www.wordsmithingpantagruel.com/2010/01/colicchio-opening-night-review.html if you want to see more.
Edo
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Really? I have found the wine pours, while not large, to be generally sufficient, and several times when I finished early I've gotten top-offs. And trust me, I'm certainly no slouch in the wine drinking dept. Certainly not over-generous, as I rarely get to help finish the wines of some companions who I often have the pleasure of helping at other wine paired dinners, but nothing to complain about from what I've seen.
I suppose they are more stingy than other places, but it pains me sometimes to see excellent wine go to waste when lots of people can't finish and even I can't take up all the slack.
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Yup, I followed this procedure that Don Lee provided to NY Magazine from the drink he came up with at PDT: http://nymag.com/restaurants/recipes/inseason/45776/
(that's one of the many links on my blog post I neglected to transfer over to my post here due to a combo of laziness and technical deficiency.)
but I used Buffalo Trace Bourbon and Neuske's bacon ( http://www.nueskes.com/products/Bacon.cfm )
Quite simple, and the old fashioned in the recipe is fantastic. You should definitely try it out, especially if you are not in NY to sample it at PDT. It's also a great hit at parties.
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Heading out of town this weekend, so I have to post mine early, here goes.
Reproduced from my blog post at wordsmithingpantagruel.com.
Links and better formatting over there.
At first I was not at all sure where to go with this theme since I've never before concocted a new libation with such ingredients, but after a little research and thinking about the couple drinks I have enjoyed that utilize egg white, inspiration struck. In fact, it struck thrice. I did stay away from the cheese and stuck to eggs and milk though.
I first began by thinking about the classic and excellent Pisco Sour, my current favorite egg white drink, and how I could turn that recipe on it's head. That led me to my first drink:
Any Hour Sour
* 1½ oz Bacon-infused bourbon
* 1 oz egg white
* ¼ oz orange juice
* ¾ oz lemon juice
* ¼ oz maple syrup
* 1 dash angostura bitters
* Amargo Chuncho Peruvian Bitters* for garnish
Shake and double strain all but Peruvian bitters, add a dash or two of those to foam on top after straining into wine glass.
*These bitters go great on the pisco sour so I used them here just to tie the ideas together, you can get them over at Cocktail Kingdom. ( https://www.cocktailkingdom.com/ ) You can sub more angostura otherwise.
Continuing further along this line of thought, and after reading about how the Brandy Milk Punch can be transformed into a simplified egg nog in Dale DeGroff's The Essential Cocktail (recommended), I came up with this:
Breakfast of Champions
* 2 oz Bacon-infused bourbon
* 4 oz cereal milk*
* 1 whole large egg (~ 2 oz)
* ¼ oz maple syrup
* 2 dashes Fee’s Whiskey Barrel-aged bitters (2008) **
Dry shake, shake with ice, double strain.
Prob makes 2 servings but more satisfying to drop in entire egg.
*I stole the cereal milk idea from Momofuku (soon to be released cookbook here, I'm excited.) Don't know how they do it, but I steeped corn flakes in milk in the fridge for 45 minutes before straining through cheesecloth and that worked. Their recipe will be in the book I hear. Feel free to sub your favorite cereal.
**These bitters add a solid dose of cinnamon, you can sub angostura or even dust with cinnamon in a pinch.
This was the first time I've tried drink like a flip or a nog containing a whole egg, let alone made one, let alone from my own recipe. I was fully expecting an epic fail, but I do have to admit I was quite pleased with the results. Smooth, rich, and delicious. And no, I didn't have it for breakfast.
Don't know where I got the idea for this next one, just came to me when I remembered I had this bottle of Castries peanut creme liquor sitting untried in the fridge which I had bought on a lark just because I'd never seen it. I give you the PnPBnJ on Rye, aka Pecan and Peanut Butter and Jelly on Rye.
PnPBnJ on Rye
* 1 oz Pecan-infused rye
* 1 oz Castries Peanut Rum Crème
* 1 oz milk
* 1 tbsp Bonne Maman Strawberry Preserves
Shake and strain.
Very dessert-y, but fun, like a cross between a PBnJ and an admittedly adult milkshake. Fine, try Welch's grape if that's your thing.
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I miss that, but I miss the sweetbreads even more.
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After scouring the web and restaurant supply stores, I finally had some success finding smallish glasses for an upcoming cocktail party. First I found some 4 oz simple cocktail glasses and some 3 oz with a faceted bulge in the stem and a restaurant supply store at 110 Bowery in downtown Manhattan. Most places I checked just had the standard Libbey lines, but I don't know where these were from. The cups of these glasses are neither V shaped or perfectly round, but are flattish at the bottom of the bowl. The two I described were my favorite but they had the best variety I found. They were a few bucks a glass and they sold the by the dozen or the case of 3 dozen.
The credit for the real victory goes to my wife, who found me real Nick and Nora style 5 oz glasses after I had given up. I couldn't even find a decent picture of what I wanted on the web, but my wife set out to best me, and succeeded. In fact, the place is in Manhattan and delivered the next day, so a sweet triumph it was indeed. She found them at a place called Pour Wines on Amsterdam and 75th, here's the link:
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We got there at 6 and there were only a few tables seated and a couple people at the bar, but it filled up pretty quickly after we were seated. On our way out it was full, with standing room only at the bar, presumably people waiting for tables.
For dessert they had a special spiced apple cider with whiskey sabayon and sugar cookies that we tried, and we also got the treacle pudding for two, which is more like a pudding for 4. The four of us didn't finish it. It was good, a moist spongecake with a custard poured over it at the table.
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thanks. How did I forget the bacon and eggs? That dish and the kidney's were my favorites.
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as an aside, the several meals I've just posted about is not a typical week for me, just a confluence of guests in town, random special events, and reservation times I arbitrarily got.
but it was a good week.
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I checked out the recently opened John Dory, the english seafood pub from the Spotted Pig team. I was excited to check out the new hot spot, but it exceeded my expectations. It may not be to everyone's liking, but I quite enjoyed the eclectic decor. It was the food that blew me away though. We had a group of 4, and concentrated mostly on the apps and raw bar, partly because it would let us try more things but mostly because they were more exciting to us.
We actually got all 5 crudos and both the oysters and langoustines from the raw bar. The oysters were top notch, but the langoustine was perhaps the best one I've ever had. I'm typically disappointed by langoustines because they are rarely quite as good as they look to me, but this one was much better, perfectly succulent and tender with a delicious aioli to dip the pieces in. All the crudos were excellent. The steak tartare was nothing special, but the real standout was the razor clam ceviche. Supremely fresh and sweet and tender with just the right acidity.
I was at first disappointed because I had seen on their website the opening menu had cod milt, which I had never tried and was looking forward to, and it was not on the menu presented to us. Luckily it was a verbal special, so I jumped at that. It was very different than I expected, and much better. It reminded me of sweetbreads in texture with a delicate flavor, with a nice salty sauce with capers and an acid bite.
We also got the grilled octopus app, which was very good but nothing notably different than many other nice versions I've had.
Perhaps the best thing of the night was the oyster pan roast with crostini with uni butter. This dish was more of a soup or bisque than I had expected, with several plump oysters in the broth, but man was it good. Very rich but silky smooth and with vermouth I think that kept it very balanced. Mmm, yeah, definitely the highlight no that I'm thinking back and remembering it as I type.
WE got two entrees, the black pepper dungeness crab and the squid stuffed with chorizo. The crab was tasty but messy (they did warn us) with the very peppery sauce all over the outside of the unshelled crab. It reminded me of dishes I had in Hong Kong. Probably my favorite of the two entrees. The squid was solid as well, stuffed with a saffron rice as well as the chorizo. I enjoyed both entrees very much, but the real strengths were the starters we had.
I suppose the prices are not very cheap, but the quality of the ingredients are very high. I suspect whenever I am in the neighborhood I will pop in and get a seat at the bar and revisit the raw dishes and the pan roast, in fact I'm sure there is no way I will be able to resist.
Also, another cool thing was that Thomas Keller and 2 others I recognized were seated at the table inches away from us. I thought about thanking him for the great offal meal I enjoyed at per se the night before, but didn't want to interrupt as he was in the middle of a story as I was leaving.
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Per Se currently has an offal tasting menu in addition to the chef's and vegetarian menus. I went on Wednesday and it was a pleasant surprise. I think Monday was the first day they did it and I believe they were planning on running it for 3 weeks or so. They had some really excellent stuff, much more refined than the offal presentations I usually see, so it made for a fun new experience. Just from memory, here are some of the courses (forgive the lack of detail, and possible mistakes):
Bone Marrow Custard with Caviar
Sliced veal heart
Tripe with lobster mitts
Dover sole with cockscombs
Veal Kindey
Foie Gras ice cream, with 100 year balsamic and some other stuff I can't remember
Mincemeat Pie bound with marrow
I may have forgotten something else, not sure
all were very unique preps and all excellent, but it was a fantastic surprise to me, I would have thought I would have read a blurb about it somewhere, but I had not.
ps they still have the risotto with truffles supplement on the chef's menu, and it is quite a decent portion, with a very generous shaving of excellent and fresh truffles. It's very safe to trust keller's restaurants to get the best and freshest truffles, I'm sure they do a better job than I would be able to do if I had the opportunity to select my own at the source.
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Anyone at noodle bar last night? I went for a late lunch, and apparantly they were going to experiment with a 45$ prix fix menu for dinner that night, so they had a last call for ordering lunch before they shut the kitchen down to transition to dinner. I asked about the menu for dinner but our waitress didn't know what they were planning. We had a typically excellent meal, I'm not at all complaining, just curious if they had a special menu or if it was regular menu stuff.
ps they had a yummy pig trotter terrine special that we enjoyed
MxMo LXVI: Bein' Green
in Spirits & Cocktails
Posted
Thanks, the link helps, otherwise I'd just link to the post here.
We're at at least 22 participants so far, still going strong. And I still have yet to get around to posting mine...
We got some great looking drinks so far.