TheSwede
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Use the "large" KA die that comes with the grinder. You're correct, the smallest KA die just makes a mush in my experience.
Thanks, that is what I did. Checked your blog before grinding and came to the same conclusion.
The salami is fermenting right now. I'm fermenting in the oven, but at room temperature (24C/75F) so I figure around 24-36 hours.
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I'm planning on starting my first air dried sausage tomorrow, the Tuscan Salami from Charcuterie that Chris Hennes has executed brilliantly earlier in this thread.
I'm planning on hand dicing the fat, but I'm a bit unsure about the grinding of the meat. The book states "small die" but prevous attempts with my Kitchen Aid grinder has yielded an almost homogenous texture with the small die. Should I do half the meat on the coarse die and half on the fine? Or all on the coarse?
Any insights?
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To summarize in english:
Mathias Dahlgrén does indeed receive two stars for Matsalen at Grand Hotel. He also recives one star for his Matbaren.
A new Michelin star also goes to restaurant Frantzén/Lindeberg.
Oherwise the Stockholm stars are the same as last year:
Edsbacka krog keeps their two stars, Esperanto, F 12, Lux, Leijontornet and Operakällaren keep their star.
(Edit: It is indeed Matbaren that receives the one star.)
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What will take your photos an additional level is some sort of photo editing software. Adjusting white balance, color intensity, contrast, exposure and then do some cutting/rotating on the pictures is what you need to do to reach almost professional quality.
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The White Guide (our provincial equivalent of the Michelin) is out again. The Stockholm resturants receiving "Highest International Class" are the usual suspects (see above for impressions):
Highest points for food in Stockholm and vicinities goes to:
Mathias Dahlgren - Matsalen (37 points for food)
Lux Stockholm (37 points for food)
Oaxen Skärgårdskrog (37 points for food)
Esperanto (37 points for food)
Frantzén/Lindeberg (37 points for food)
Slightly below are:
Operakällaren (36 points for food)
7. F12 Restaurant (36 points for food)
Notably absent is our only Michelin two star, Edsbacka krog which is having a change of head chef/chef patron right now.
In the "Highest Swedish Class" category you find in Stockholm:
Pontus! (35 points for food)
Leijontornet (35 points for food)
Vassa Eggen (35 points for food)
Divino (34 points for food)
Edsbacka Krog (34 points for food - this is the two star!)
Mathias Dahlgren - Matbaren (32 points for food)
GQ (32 points for food)
PerLei (32 points for food)
Rolfs Kök (32 points for food)
The real dark horse here is Rolfs Kök ("Rolf's Kitchen") which is your basic neighbourhood restaurant but with high ambitions. Since I live within ten minutes walk, it is really a shame I haven't been there for a couple of years.
Otherwise, I pretty much agree with the ranking. I have eaten at most of the resturants above during the last year and it is pretty spot on. Judged from my experinces, I would probably rank F12 higher and Lux, Pontus! (they might have shaped up?) and Divino a bit lower.
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More specifically a layer of duxelles is spread on the crepe and it is then wrapped around the fillet (so it goes puff pastry - crepe - duxelles - beef).
J
Isn't the duxelles really a layer of black truffle and foie?
Gordon Ramsey and/or Marcus Waring definitely uses the crepe (with chives in it). Check the "Cooks Book".
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Question for eGulleters:
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The question is, what do I do with the inevitable remaining 1.25 lbs of foie gras? Can it be frozen and thawed for future use? Do I have to invite a bunch of friends over for a next day foie gras party? Sell it on craigslist?
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TK
You can definitely freeze a terrine (done it a lot of times) but I don't know how it will work if you want to freeze raw foie and then pan sear it. I guess it wil work fine, but I have never tried it.
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Formerly Michelin starred restaurant Mistral makes a comeback! After closing down their tiny boutique venue in Old Town in Stockholm (now taken over by Frantzén/Lindeberg, see above) and taking a one year time out, Björn Vasseur and Fredrik Andersson is opening Mistral again.
The new resturant is located in an old pram factory (!) in the charming suburb of Enskede, within easy taxi distance of central Stockholm. There will 36 seats available and the opening night is Friday 6th of March.
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Technichally I don't think that that is a gastrique. A think a gastrique should be based on caramelized sugar, although the only reference I have for that are some fuzzy memories and a Wikipedia stub:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gastrique
What you are describing sounds more like a Agrodolce:
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I'm also very interested as bactoferm is both expensive and hard to get here.
Anyone?
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I've done an egg yolk ravioli. I used the method from Ideas in Food (http://www.ideasinfood.com/):
Separate a number of yolks and season them (salt, pepper, truffle oil, parmesan...) and then freeze them in half spherical molds. Attach the half spheres two and two to make spheres and make your ravioli. Freeze and then cook directly from frozen.
Timing is a bit critical as you of course want the pasta cooked but the yolk warm and runny. Make a couple of extra to find the right cooking time.
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A classic use of gastrique is the orange sauce for Canard a l'Orange: Make a medium caramel, then dissolve with red wine vinegar, add dark duck stock, reduce, add blanched orange peel julienne and finish with s&p, a little orange liqueur and some butter.
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Oops, duhhhh, I missed the salting of the croutons...
I'm wondering what the cartouche does that a lid on a pan doesn't.
It keeps the surface moist, no risk of drying out. Although using both a cartouche and a lid might seem a tad obsessive. But this might well be the correct french way of doing things.
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There is a recipe for hot mayonnaise foam in The Cook's Book, but it doesn't get super firm. Basically you make a mayo with some extra whole eggs added (you are probably after the egg white's foaming properties), load it into the whipper and heat the whipper in a 65 C waterbath.
Maybe you could get a firmer foam by mixing the eggs with some xanthan gum before making the mayo?
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Saffron and/or finely chopped almonds (for "Gotland pancakes").
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Made Ma Po Tofu for the first time tonight. A wonderful dish, perfect for sub-zero (C not F) Stockholm!
I used Fuchsia Dunlops recipe in Sichuan Cookery. It is much simpler than most recipes described here, but still comes out very flavourful and complex.
No marination of the meat. Only dried red chillies, red chilli bean paste and some black fermented beans as seasoning, then adjusting the final taste with a little sugar, light soy sauce and szechuan pepper.
That was the way she was taught in the state cookery school in Sichuan, so it is probably quite authentic.
I think I lucked out on the chilli bean paste. I bought a new brand (FU CHI, made in Taiwan) which was less salty and much more flavourful than my old (LEE KUM KEE, made in mainland China).
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As for tourne, I don't think it is strictly make-work. Partly, it is to put something pretty on the plate. Partly it is to help the veggies roll around in the pan so that they glaze or saute evenly.
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Tourné is also a way to present old root vegetables ("it is now march, and they were harvested in october" old) in a pretty way. You shave away all miscolorings and imperfections and end up with something attractive.
That was of course more of an issue during the 19th and early 20th century than it is today.
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I have the french edition. It is very pretty and a good book on macaron making, but much of the information is available elsewhere, on the web or in eGullets's excellent thread on macarons.
If you want to have recipes for all of PH's signature macarons or are interested in more exotic macarons like black truffle or foie gras then the book is essential.
My french is only "kitchen french" but I can follow the explanations without much problem.
Edit: Ah, there was that thread. Tried searching for in this forum.
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Your picture and complaint reflect my biggest issue with Shun gyutos: they have a really deep belly, like a German knife, instead of the more French-inspired shape Octaveman describes.
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Hey, don't diss the germans.
After first using a Sabatier and then a Global, it felt like coming home when I started using my Wusthof. I love the broad and ever so slightly curved blade.But I do cut with a rocking (and slight slicing) motion hinged on the tip.
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I remember an old TV snippet with Paul Bocuse making a pot-a-feu with a similar thing. His explanation was that the aromas stayed in the pot rather than evaporating. He used only water, no ice.
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They refuse to serve French cheese like they serve French wine but I was sure that if anyone would have good Swedish cheese, Mattias Dahlgen would. Turns out there just must not be any decent Swedish cheese. ....
The statement about the french cheeses is simply not true. Lots of restaurants serve french cheese here. For example one star Mistral (RIP) used to have the most exquisite cheese board populated with perfectly ripe Philippe Olivier cheeses.
The statement about Swedish cheeses is unfortunately true. There are a couple of good hard cheeses (eg. Västerbotten), but they don't reach the lofty heights of a good Gruyére or Appenzeller. As for soft cheeses, I've had one really outstanding called Granbarksost, reminiscent of a Rebluchon (maybe the same you had?) but most other I've eaten hasn't been any special.
As far as I know, we don't really have a tradition making anything but rather basic hard cheeses here in Sweden. Sometimes "locally sourced" goes too far...
Granbarksost: http://www.jurssmejeri.se/granbark.html
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When I don't feel like opening a whole bottle of wine, I usually make do with a dash of dry sherry, dry vermouth or semi sweet madeira. Those last a long time in the fridge.
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A good test is to cut herbs like chives or basil, or chop fruits like apple or pear. Leave the cut food out on the counter. If it turns brown, your cutting technique or your sharpening technique needs refinement.
Interesting. Is that because a dull knife/faulty technique ruputures more cells or something?
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Saw an old episode of "The Next Iron Chef". They used 50/50 of xantan and metyl cellulose for whipping stuff that ended up with the consistency of shaving foam.
The winning dish for the episode was razor (clams) and "shaving foam".
Curing and Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 6)
in Cooking
Posted
I'm using Gewürzmüller LS 25 (from Sausagemaking.org). It contains Lactobacillus Sake and Staphylococcus Carnosus which are the same bacteria as in Bactoferm RM-52
Any rule of thumb to see when fermentation is done?