chefgregory
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Posts posted by chefgregory
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I don't think this is an Escoffier recipe. One Duke of Wellington was about a hundred years before Escoffier. Two filet de boeuf en croute is pretty hoary French classic - I would be surprised if it was a late C19 invention.
Crepe is indeed the traditional "classic" recipe. More specifically a layer of duxelles is spread on the crepe and it is then wrapped around the fillet (so it goes puff pastry - crepe - duxelles - beef). I would assume more modern chefs omit it because the crepe obviously makes things a bit heavier and doesn't contribute much to the flavour.
J
Since my initial post, I've gone back to Careme's time and have found that it may be "classic", and you are right - it is NOT an escoffier creation. I made a poor assumption about all french classic recipes coming from Escoffier. I've learned a lot though, and I thank the patience of members here.... I found my answer though.
Cheers
GB
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Greetings Fellow Foodies
I am so confused right now, I know that August Escoffier invented this dish, and I own Escoffier: The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery isbn:0471290165, and for the life of me can't seem to find this epitomise recipe in this book. I have searched under "fillet en croute" and went through the entire beef section to try to find it.
This whole search started as I was watching MasterChef and they had a recipe calling for a crepe to protect the pastry from going soggy. This does make perfect sense actually, I just had never heard of it before. I checked Julia Child and she doesn't include a crepe, nor does Larousse, nor Herrings reference. I did find online recipe that does include it, but as we all know what's online isn't always AUTHENTIC and classically correct. I went to my apprenticeship books (canadian) and they don't include it. (Actually I just thought of a couple more reference books I can check though - Eugene Pauli and Paul Bocuse.
I checked in my Joel Robuchon, Michel Roux and Alain Ducasse books and although their recipe all differ slightly, they don't include a crepe (I did learn that a lot of them use foi-gras and/or truffle-pate as an ingredient though) - but these are all modern renditions.
I hit the escoffier.com web site and tried a search the original Escoffier recipe but came up dry. I have lots of cook books that have lots of great recipes but alas none of them contain a crepe. I know I'm being a little persnickety with this, but really want to find the old, old classical recipe done by escoffier - I did find websites with descriptions about who it was really names after, but alas none of them contained the "original, classic" one.
I do realize that a lot of modern cooking, is only a variation of the classic Escoffier methods, but I am flabbergasted I can't find it in the one book it should be in - I feel really stupid that I can't find this, and slightly embarrased I have to ask this community with the 400+ books I own.
Thanks a lot!!!
Cheers
Gregory Bastow
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Greetings one and all!
I have been asked to compile a list a standard salt/fat/calorie content of all the house recipes. It's a slow tedious process to do this by hand, so I have come here for some advice.
I am sure there is recipe database software that will do this, but of the 3 I have downloaded and test drived, they really don't have this kind of support.
I am hoping someone here will have had some experience and can make some worthwhile suggestions. Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Gregory Bastow
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With regard to your steak, the best way to stop from losing juices during cooking is not by salting but by the use of a handy little gadget called a Jaccard ® tenderizer. My thanks for NathanM who contributes so often to eGullet forums for this bit of advice. Basically the tenderizer is a spring loaded device comprising many small knives. You place it on the piece of meat and push it down to penetrate the meat, working all the way across the surface. The theory (and practice) is that the "juices" from meat are forced out when the meat fibers contract as it is cooked. Resting the meat after cooking allows for these to relax and the juices to in essence be reabsorbed. By cutting the fibers with the Jaccard, you decrease the amount of tension with the result that less juice is forced out. Ironically, putting hundreds of little holes in the meat means that it will lose less fluid. It also improves the penetration of marinades.
Just to stay on topic, this is about SALTING and flavour penetration:-)
I would like to thank you a lot for the recommendation of the Jaccard device - it is now one of my most used toys. We recently did a test of 4 pieces of striploin and the salted, tenderized piece has the most amazing color and texture. I found a little extra resting time was needed (usually 1/2 of cooking time), but hands-down this gadget is a wonder.
I did find I had to hold the spring-loaded piece back on the thicker steaker (they are usually 2inches thick) to get better penetration.
It was expensive here in Canada, pretty much $100 by the time shipping and customs charges cleared, but the pork loin we did tonight with a crab-apple-pecan crust was to dye for! Same recipe as before, but the pork held it's juices so much better than before, we were all amazed
Cheers
GB
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Santa was very, very good for me
; you can add 16 to your running total!!!Cheers
GB
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I'm doing seafood and snacks tomorrow night, instead of a sit-down dinner. There will only be four of us. I've ordered stone crab, shrimp and oysters. My seafood market won't sell less than a half-bushel of oysters. That's about 6 dozen and probably twice as many as I need. I'm just going to steam them. I do not want to try to shuck them myself. Any ideas what I could do with about 3 dozen left-over steamed oysters?
If you blanch/poach them they will last a week in the fridge in their own juice.
I'm not sure if you need instructions, so if not just ignore. Get the biggest pot you have and get enough water to cover them (I'll assume a gallon), throw in a tablespoon of peppercorns, 5-6 small leaves, a lemon cut into wedges and bring to a boil, couple tabelsppons sea salt. Put the oysters in when boiling rapidly and cook for 4-6 minutes (the water probably won't get back to a boil). They still should be soft in the middle. Store in the fridge covered in just enough of this liquid to cover them.
Now from the fridge you can make lots of things from them. we used to make rockefellr (creams spinach and hollandaise) or "fire" baked in the oven with a hot sauce and cheese. One of my favorites was breading them in cornmeal/flour combo and panfrying them with a tartar sauce. Lots of choice at this point though.
Cheers
GB
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Bumping this up. Any new weekend brunch recommendations - near downtown/west end/kits for preference.
Sadly Aurora Bistro is closed, but there's lots of new places that have opened.
Downtown weekend brunch? Chambar's sister, Medina: http://www.medinacafe.com/
The newly re-opened DBBistro Moderne (a Daniel Boulud creation) is now doing brunch. I have yet to make it there - perhaps this sunday - but given the history of the Chef Patron I would expect it will be superb.
Cheers
GB
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Great responce, very interesting... a couple new salient points....
I've order the Jaccard device - I love new toys - but it was expensive up here in Canada. No one from the USA would ship here and only one place at the other end of the country sell them.
About the salt issue, I found an amazing resource that is actually designed for kids. It it compiled by Heston Blumenthal. "Kitchen Chemistry" published by "Royal Society of Chemisty" and it's fabulous. It comes with a DVD and really a work book designed for classroom work. I would HIGHLY recomend this for any students of the culinary arts.
I've gone back to a few reference books I have, but not being a great brain with chemistry, the RSC books lays down some fundamentals for me that really help me understand the more complex issues that are discussed in this thread.
Cheers
GB
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I see all these cookbook numbers and have to wonder; do these numbers reflect any thing to do with what these people are interested in?
Right now my interest is preserving and smoke although tonight I spent an hour searching in my books for various recipes for "Goulash" as in , maybe Hungarian or maybe something else. This request was from my Greek ancestory neighbor, whose husband asked if she could make a Goulash.
So I ask, why do we care how many books we own. Perhaps a better question would be have you read any thing lately that lit your fires. I have.
edit:spell
Hmm, well firstly the goulash recipe was actually on one of my cooking tests; equal amount of onions as meat by weight, caraway, hungarian paprika and diced potatoes. I put diced pickles in mine (a very northern way) and I've known german chefs who put spaeztle. Theres tomato paste as well as beef stock (now that was the most backwards recipe I've ever written:-)
Now to add to this thread;
Wow, this was enlightening as I just did a count
. I own 88 "about foods" or industry related books and 275 actual cook books. Most of them purchased in the past 2 years. PLus I have 4 more en-route.I freely admit to being adicted to cook books; there is a huge feeling of satisfaction with curling on with alinea, or the big fat duck book, a cup of tea and a roaring fire - along with my note pad. I am trying desperatly to keep the Gastronomic Event Horizon in view.
There are so many great ideas that I have just never even concieved of, and methods I just never would have dreamed of. And I'm not just speaking of Molecular Gastronomy.
Another favorite is; The Art of Eating and Gastrononica are my 2 favourite periodicals. I subcsribe to 20 odd periodicals and for recipes Cuisine, Good Food and Olive are my favorite.
I so want an immersion cooker. Upon the recommendation of a fellow egullet member I just ordered a Jaccard meat tenderizer. I keep repeating the mantra "I am not obsessed"
but I did just dream of being attached by a stale pita pocket.Cheers
GB
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Dozens of cookbooks on my shelf instruct that "when the water returns to the boil" you're supposed to remove the vegetables you're blanching, or you're supposed to start timing the pasta, or you're done cooking a particular item. But does this advice really make sense? Some stoves being so much more powerful than others, and depending on the quantity of what you're cooking, won't some pots of water return to the boil in seconds while others take minutes? And won't that affect results?
I was always taught to not "overwhelm" the water with so much product that you never loose the boil in the 1st place. And the timiing has always been to the texture of the product your looking for - it _will_ cook in non-boiling water (albiet slower) so testing texture with fingers is the best solution.
Salted water will always speed up the cooking process as the outside cell walls willl break down faster.
I would say its more important to go by taste/texture than a timer.
Cheers
Gregory Bastow
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Well, one of the methods I have always used to ensure great taste, is to dissolve the salt in the vinegar 1st, then add your other seasonings, and the oil should go in last. Yes, great EVOO will make a huge difference, but sometime you don't always want that olive flavour to be so stong - so mix the evoo with half sunflower, or a straight evo to lessen that fruity flavour. It is usually the quality of ingredients, so buy not only the best oil, but also vinegars - I like using champage vingar, or I've even mixed a very dry white wine with the vinegar itself.
I'd be careful with the truffle oil, it's extremely strong and could overpower everything else. I would suggest this oil only drizzled on top of the salad, and not used in the dressing itself.
Rememebr the classical french ratio is 1 part vinegar to 3 parts oil - although I usually will mix 1:2.5 or 1:2.0 as I like it to have some bite. This is all subjective according the oils and acids used.
Cheers
GB
i really don't know why but the vinaigrettes i make never seem to turn out the way i want them. there's clearly a secret to be discovered somewhere. the tomato salads served at better lunch places here usually comes with a really delicious parsley vinaigrette and once i had a purely amazing chervil vinaigrette for a grilled white asparagus + pata negra salad at a michelin starred place here in town.now i know the secret is supposed to be "really good evoo + really good vinaigrette", but is that really it? that doesnt' seem to be enough to put it over the top for me. does anyone have any suggestions? i usually just whip together some evoo, some white wine vinegar, s+p and some herbs.
more specifically, i want to make this salad for new years eve consisting of artichoke hearts, radishes, shaved black truffle and aged comté cheese. does good quality truffle oil sound like a good idea to use for the vinaigrette base? what else should i put in there?
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Greetings fellow gourmands, foodies & chefs!
I have been cooking for quite a few years, and have always thought I had a very good understanding of how and when to use salt. I know how salt extracts water from things. I've never used salt in marinades. I've never used it in stocks. My understanding is; salt corrects ph balance in the water which allows it to stops the transmission of flavour from the food into the liquid.
I always understood that you need to salt all meats before sauteeing and grilling (as it creates a layer of flavour) and stops the bleeding of juices into the pan and protects the meat from drying out.
Recently another cook challenged my constant salting of steaks, and had the position of it stops the "other" flavours from penetrating the meat, and makes the crust dryer than it should be. We did an experiment and I definitly found the salted meat did have a crustier exterior (which I like, and believe it should be like that) than the unsalted one, no change in the interior texture. we couldn't determine a taste difference as his position was a steak with a less tough exterior would be concidered more tender.
I don't mind rethinking and adapting my methods, but I would like to hear some other opinions.
After reading Thomas Kellers books, he clearly states blanching water should be as salty as the ocean; which is a much higher concentration than I use to use.
Please, respond - I want to hear what you have to say.
Cheers
GB
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I'm not much a story teller, but there are a few things I would like to share as I find them all rather funny.
I once had a customer walk upto the open kitchen and ask me if I could make a Paella without rice and seafood - I explained exactly what goes into and declined her request stating "I just can't make paella the way you want it, sorry". She sat back down with her table and ordered something else. After she left, the boss came into the kitchen and told me this lady had complained we wouldn't make the food the way the table wanted it. My boss (even though he knows exactly what paella is) suggested I should be more accomodating!
Another one, is this lady who ALWAYS order her steak MR with no pink. When I sent the filet just a hair over MW, she complained it was underdone. When the server tried to explain the differences, she just got very defensive and said that is how she always gets it, and every other restaurant cooks it correctly.
There is lots of humour in this thread as customers always want it their way - I've see people screw with flavour so much I don't really care if they want to change the dish - as any discerning palate would know, some flavours simply don't combine. One regular customer wanted melted cheddar on his grilled teriyaki salmon burger. Or the customer who always wanted a side of strawberry coulis for their prawn & scallop ceviche :-)
One of the latest "crazes" is the invented food allergy! I can remember lots of examples - one of the most common real allergy is shellfish. And it is important to act as if they are always real, but the lady who said she was allergic to shrimp, so please add some prawns is NOT one of those examples.
I personally blame Burger-King for all these customer re-inventing/changing menu items with their "have it your way" add campaign!
I have always explained to the FOH to please inform the customer that by making asignificant changes to a menu item, they are dramatically slowing down the speed they will get their food.
I would love to hear more of these humorous adecdotes.
Cheers
GB
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You must be American, for there surely is a national standard for a cook in Canada, it's called the Red Seal, and it's the same piece of paper you earn as a journeyman carpenter, tool and die maker, line man, plumber, or any other trade.
In a kitchen there can be only one 'chef', but there can be many professional (papered) cooks. They are not the same thing, and are not mutually inclusive.
All culinary programs across the nation lead to an apprenticeship, which leads to journeyman (Red Seal) certification. Google it, or go to www.red-seal.ca for more info.
I am very surprised that there is not a formal trade system in the US like this one.
-- Matt.
I don't mean to pick to many nits, but there often is several layers of "chefs" in a convential brigade - Executive Chef, Head Chef, Sous-Chef, Executive Sous-Chef at the level of management. In canada this labels get bastardized a lot - in a small restaurant with 75 seats the owner labeled his kitchen staff Executive Chef, Sous-Chef, then line cook (there were only 3 people in the kitchen). Then there is the new "Chef-de-Cuisine" that overseas all food production.
You are right there is only one person in charge the kitchen, but that could be the sous-chef (2nd in command), the head-chef or even the executive chef. It all depends on the operation.
The Red-Seal in Canada (imho) really only denotes a journeyman level cook - someone who hae completed apprenticeship. When I finished my apprenticeship in 1989 I was awarded the red-seal right away. When I interview prospective cooks I want them to have their journeymans papers as to me (again imho) it really only denotes their commitment to the industry and doesn't really state their cooking abilities.
Cheers
GB
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Here is a little bit from an online job posting that I found really amusing:
"Ideal candidate(s) must have a passionate desire to run his or her own kitchen and a culinary degree from CIA—culinary degrees from other institutions might be considered depending on level of experience and other factors—candidates without a culinary degree however will not be considered."
<laughter>
I guess this would disqualify Heston Blumenthal from the Fat Duck in Bray, England (The 2nd best restaurant in the world) as he is SELF-TAUGHT:-)
If he came looking for a job (which he never would) I seriously doubt they would say "NO" to him:-)
Where was this quaoted from again?
Cheers
GB
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I am one of 2 trained and experienced chefs in the kitchen - here is the deal. While I am always striving for perfection in everything - neither one of us "2" can be doing the food all of the time. So good enough is a range. it is like you want 1 10 on everything but your acceptable range is 7 to 10. You have to take in consideration the skills of your staff....as far as getting the best ingredients - whover that post was above - you look for good quality for a reasonable cost. A chef can make something good from anything. While mystery baskets which I have talked about before are the test for a chef. You non chefs that all you talk about is Top CHef - well, while most of that stuff is not as "on the fly" as you would think - look at your fridge and write menus - for us chefs - the skill is in making something good from almost nothing. Flavor profiles - what goes with what - but I am not sure how this post has gotten so far from topic.
I would just like to echo those sentiments of "using what you have". I do agree to excel and really be at the top you need to source quality products though.
I would merely site "Iron Chef America" as a fabulous example of using-what-you-have.
Cheer
GB
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Maybe a simple spreadsheet like this one for Martha Stewart's Everyday Food?
I had a looks, and yes, that is exactly the layour of information I want. I am hoping to be able to automate it and not have to type everything in by hand though.
Cheers
GB
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Ok, so I admit I'm a little obsessed with magazine, this is going to be the first time I have typed out and quanitified all the magazine I subscribe to and read on a regular basis. My intent here is to get some advice and hopefully get pointed in few direction of where I can may find a way to get a database built for these titles, with
magazine title; date/issue; list of all recipes; list of articles
I might just have to sit down and type them out to get started, what I am hoping for an electronic way to access various websites and build it completely through the web. Unfortunatly I am NOT a web programmer.
Is there a single uniform way to access all the various websites related to these magazine and build this index?
BBC Good Food
BBC Olive
BBC Delicious
Saveur
Gourmet
Bon appetite
Intermezzo
Gastronomica
The Art of eating
Art Culinaire
Food Arts
restaurant magazine
Chef
Thanks a lot!
GB
ps: any web programmers want to lend their talents to this tasks????
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Wow - holy cow.
Yes, there are huge conseqeunces to our actions and sometimes (you are soo right) the shades of grey between the black and the white really get blurred.
I applaud you, and firmly believe everyday we live and stand our moral and ethical grounds (whether spiritually and/or through religion) it helps us be a better person.
In the big picture of LIFE, THE UNIVERSE AND EVERYTHING - these food issues evaporate very quickly.
I am a very spiritual person and have a tremondeous love of life. Life is for the living, help those who don't know how, or don't have the means to help themselves.
A very important teacher once taught me "everyone is ALWAYS trying to do the best they can, with the resources they have". My aim outside of cuisine is help people find new and more powerful resources, so they can live their lives in ways they find better for themselves - we are all different, and we all need many kinds of support.
We do all lie; even those who say they don't. There are white lies that are told to protect peoples feelings, to not upset or annoy our fellow human beings. As long as your lies don't go against your personal values, your own morality and ethics then those are (imho) acceptable lies.
I think I digressed a little here, didn't mean to go quite so metaphysical on ya:-) I just enjoy deep, meaningful conversation about topics that touch peoples lives and hearts.
Cheers
GB
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So this begs my question to you - do you cheat? Do you work for yourself and can afford that principal - or are you one of the many posters in this forum that is all hat and no cattle
Do I cheat - I don't understand what you are asking me I "cheat" at. The hat and cattle reference I don't get.
I agree that following "orders" is very important and as an employee I have said to them (the bosses) "you can have it your way, no problem, you sign the checks you can run your business anyway you wish" and then I quietly inform them I didn't agree with this, that and something else (give notice) and find something else, somewhere else.
This was never an issue before in my career really. If I work in a ricky's/denny's/etc place I have different expectations of the food they serve. I would expect them to use pre-packages products, etc.
It was the misrepresentation of products that restaurants do and the ethics and morality of doing that I wanted to discuss.
And YES - I used to work for myself, and I don't find a lot of $costs$ involved in adhering to moral ecthical behaviour. Patience and planning can aid this cause a lot.
I want to produce food I can be proud of, I want to have impressed happy customers saying "wow". I thrive and love the energy of restaurant business. I will never again work for a place I would be ashamed of the food going on the plate. A chef once told me "if you wouldn't serve it to your mother, don't sent it".
Cheers
GB
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Have any of you guys attempted to open a place in less than a month? this includes all construction staffing training, ordering, planning and costing..... not the ideal situation i know, but its what i have been dealt. Any advice and or tips??
I never started from scratch before, the when I bought the pub, one of my biggest saving grace was the 4 hour I spent building a time line on my computer.
It's hard to coordinate and keep a lot of workers focused and on task - for me; stapling the time line (which did change a little over time:-) to the wall for all the contractors to see _really_ helped.
My advice, don't just pay people - reward them with extras!
Cheers
GB
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It happens all of the time - As a pro chef I see it, most of the time I don't say anything UNLESS I am being ripped off money wise. I recently had a rissotto that was uncle bens swimming in sauce - My wife is more picky than I am and looks at things harder than I do and she is a doc!
No it is wrong all the way around - and we should put our foot down. BUT - please if you are a chef - in todays terrible happenings - make sure you have a job before leaving on principal. I am a sous chef that bites his tongue A LOT!
So you bight your tongue a lot:-) hmm... I'm sorry but this begs the question, how far will you go towing the line? Will you serve pork for veal? will you personally sell frozen products and call them fresh?
Enquiring minds want to know?
GB
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Congrats! I hope it brings you peace and contentment, and the ability to be creative and ethical all at the same time.
Thanks a lot Katie! I appreciate it!
Cheers
GB
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You know what - I realize this; AND, I am hoping this could perhaps work to my advantage as anyone in my local market who DOES read this board, owns a restaurant and sees my resume come accross there desk will understand far more readily, the explanation of WHY I left my previous employer.
I think a potential employer might appreciate that you disagreed with your current employer's actions, but might also see that you're taking private concerns public.
In other words, if you're trash-talking your current place, what are you going to say about their place if it doesn't meet your "standards" or if for some reason, you become disgruntled while working there?
As chefpeon said, if you have a problem, "rant to the appropriate people", but to take it to a public forum in such a way as you have can also be construed as "unethical".
Well, I never really meant for this to be a "rant" really. I was merely fishing for others peoples opinions on this subject and got a little carried away.
A few things were pointed out to me that I really didn't think of (anononymity), and I agree that by naming-names, and letting this gets "personal" it could be concidered unethical. I did not mean to act in a non-professional way.
I would like thank all those who responded, I got some good feedback. I regret that it seemed like I was bad-mouthing him, as I really only want to see what other professionals thought of such actions (as finding a new job, is so obvious - yet I neglected to mention my job-hunt in my posts
.I've solved my "problem" now. I have found another position I will be happy with.
Cheers
GB
MasterChef Australia!
in Food Media & Arts
Posted
I to have found joy in watching this series - I don't agree with the voting-off tactic as personal stuff can get in the way of cooking-ethics and excellent cooks can be voted out for tactical reasons....
This link doesn't work in canada - does it work in the states?
Cheers
GB