JJS

Still need to post my notes on recent trips to Reims, Paris, Rome and Florence. But went to Pied a Terre yesterday and thought I should post my thoughts quickly. For me, this is an outstanding restaurant and I am surprised that the place has generated negative opinion. The food was distinctly better than a recent visit to the Capital, which itself was excellent. The meal began with some stunning canapés: mushroom beignet, salmon tartare with horseradish, fois gras mouse between two feather light pieces of filo pastry, and a small shot glass of pumpkin mouse scented with ginger. All were very good, outstanding actually, and some of the best canapés I have been served in a restaurant of this kind, and much more interesting than the usual stale amuse-bouche that most places serve up these days. The pumpkin mouse was particularly impressive and showed a real sense of technical accomplishment married to a refreshing inventiveness. This was followed by a scallop ceviche with avocado, and more filo pastry, and seared and poached fois gras in a sauternes sauce. The fois gras was good, if a little on the boring side, although technically it was very assured, but the scallops were fantastic, and again showed the skill of the kitchen and the imagination of the chef. Mains were a saddle of rabbit with a ravioli of the confit legs, and sea bass in a vanilla sauce with fennel and parmesan gnocchi. The rabbit was exemplary, the saucing perfect and beautifully surrounded by small roasted artichokes which matched the ravioli wonderfully, But the stand out dish was the sea bass which was a tremendous piece of cooking, and, according to my companion, was better than the sea bass in vanilla sauce at Guy Savoy, and stood comparison with a similar dish at L'Amphitryon, Lorient, which they regard as the best example of this combination. Pre-dessert continued matters nicely – a fantastically refreshing pine sorbet served on a sharp apple jelly. Then came chocolate tart with stout ice cream, which was exemplary, a text book piece of cooking brightened by a genuinely good idea with the ice-cream. My companion had a plum tart which also got rave reviews. I tasted this too and it was very impressive – the plums more lightly roasted than might be expected but enhanced by a perfect glaze. Coffee was good and petit fours were generous and stylishly presented in stark box. Service was pretty good throughout – although I did have to wait a little too long for the bill once I had asked for it – the wine waiter in particular was very helpful and friendly. The only problem, and there always has to be one, is that for a restaurant of this calibre the tables were slightly too close together. I will go again, when I am around, but maybe this time request a round table where one seems to get more space. In addition there is a no-smoking room which is a haven for those of us who do not want to pay to inhale other people’s smoke all night and barely taste any food. The food is good value too – particularly when given the quality and generosity of the incidentals. It is £44 for the three courses, the fois gras required a supplement, which is less than the Capital or the Square, with whom it can be compared very favourably, although both these restaurants have better rooms with a little more space for the tables, and also less than Richard Corrigan who is certainly in a league below. So to conclude matters quickly, I was impressed by this place, the food is extremely good, both interesting and satisfying, and Shane Osborne is certainly a chef to watch.

I just thought I should second Robert's suggestion of La Pergola. I have been three times in the last year and each time have found it to be superb. It is my favourite in Italy, just ahead of Miramonte, and offers a fantastic view, ask for table number 10 if you are dining as a couple, service that surpasses some of the best in Italy, and wonderfully innovative food. Petit fours are served in a beautiful silver jewel box, and there is even a mineral water list with waters from all over Italy each with its own description. Heinz Beck has a wonderful touch with seafood and game, and in many ways reminds me of the innovative food that Stefano Cavallini used to serve. If its on offer have the scampi carpaccio, the artichoke ravioli with quail. the turbot in a salt crust and do not skip cheese which is fantastic. It does get booked up though but I hope you can go. It is now rated by Gambero Rosso as the third or second best in Italy, and I think it is just fantastic.

Robert I am actually planning a couple of (very delayed) reports on some of those restaurants. Been to Il Desco (reports to come) twice in the past 18 months and enjoyed it both times but its not quite on a par with Miramonte or La Pergola (reports to come). The service is wonderful, very friendly and gracious, and the desserts were excellent. Some of the dishes hit great heights but others were a lot less memorable. I would probably go to a some of the excellent but more simple places in Verona such as Tre Marchetti or Botega Del Vino. Da Vittorio is for me a good but very overpriced restaurant. Its emphasis is on fish and sometimes it can turn out very good dishes, particularly the risottos and the antipasti, but my favourtite in Bergamo is Lio Pelligrini. There is a website but I cannot remember the exact details, however the restaurant is wonderful. This gets a higher rating in Gambero Rosso than Da Vittorio (87 to 83 I think or something like that) but no Michelin stars and it is not aiming for any. There are no incidentals and the food is very traditional. A recent visit saw a wonderful mixed salad of raw fish, followed by a textbook rendition of papardelle and hare sauce, beautifully fresh simple fish, and then a delightful fruit tart. All very fresh, very simple and very good. The simplicity was in some ways misleading as the dishes do rquire a strong understanding of the fundamentals of Italian cooking and this kitchen delivered for me a wonderful meal. My Italian friends much prefer Lio Pelligrini as it is more relaxed, and cooks their favourite dishes extremely well. However if you want or need a more elaborate meal with a different feel and a definite Michelin context then Da Vittorio would be a better choice. The food however for me is better at Lio Pellegrini and better value (although certainly not cheap). Hope this helps

This is also a useful review from the telegraph - I cannot find the Norman review either. Anyway things are clearly still mixed: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/wine/main.jhtml...%2Fedmoir12.xml

Lizee It is great to see other people enjoying Ledoyen. I first went soon after Le Squer arrived and thought he was one to watch. I then went twice more, once at 2 star and once at the new 3 star. I think he is a great chef but I do think he could change his menu a little more frequently. I too had problems with the wine waiter but overall its one of my favourites. I would go back when I go to Paris in November but unfortunately, I now want to try something new but having second thoughts about Ducasse now!

Lizee Thanks so much for the report. I have been waiting to see what you would think about Ducasse. I have a table booked for late november but I am not sure now. When you pay those prices, everything takes on a different edge I guess and its kind of hard to enjoy yourself and relax. IF its all perfect then fine but if anything goes wrong, or the staff have an off day, then you really feel squeezed. How much the meal come to in total if you can remember?

Personally I agree with John. I think he knows what he is talking about and I would be much more prepared to trust his judgement then Gill or Maschler. He is a little self-centred and pompous but he knows what he is talking about and he sticks to what is in important in a restaurant: the food, the service, the prices and the atmosphere (unlike Gill). He can be irritating for sure but I think he knows his stuff.

Just one last point or query: that irritating thing called money. Ducasse and L'Arpege seem to be two of the most expensive restaurants in Paris and I always like to have an outside estimate for the cost of the meal - given that I am taking out two other people. Allowing for a couple bottles of wine maybe 120-140 Euros each. Do people thinking an estimate of around 1100 Euros sounds about right, given that I expect (knowing myself and the others!) people to want to order luxury items like white and black truffles, game and seafood? If people think it is likely to be more, do they have an idea of how much more? Is there a big difference between Ducasse and L'Arpege?

Going to try for Ducasse and L'Arpege. Les Ambassadeurs does not appeal now and Carre des Feuilliante is not quite what I am looking for. Thanks for all the help. Will be sure to post on my experiences wherever I end up. I think Guy Savoy will now be very hard to book, so anyone thinking of going there should allow at least two and a half months.

Cabrales Yes, I was, well I was as flexible as I could be. I gave them a choice of six different dates and was told they were fully booked on each occassion. Unfortunately Lunch was not an option for me on most of these dates, but I was very surprised at the lack of a space for any of the dinners. My concierge got me to the top of the waiting list and says he thinks my chances are high, but I do not like to leave these things too much to chance. Its particularly dissapointing as last year I went twice to Guy Savoy and got in at much less notice. I think his elevation to three stars has shifted the game a little - his phone number is taking on an increasingly 'French Laundry' hue with nearly the whole menu recited to you and its consistently engaged. If anything this shows the power of Michelin. I would be very interested to hear your opinion on the relative merits of the Meurice.

Les Ambassadeurs and Jamin are also options. So opinions on those establishments would also be greatly appreciated.

Despite my best plans and the efforts of my concierge. My attempts to get in to Guy Savoy for early December have come to nought. Pierre Gagnaire might still happen, but I am looking for alternative suggestions for my two dinners. Ideally I would like to try somewhere new, which means Ledoyen, Michel Rostang, Laurent, the Bristol, and Pre Catalan are ruled out. The Grand Vefour is not open on Friday or Saturday which further reduces my choices. What I would prefer is places where the seasonal choice is strong - such as Guy Savoy where I would go back if I could - so I can indulge in a good choice of game and black and white truffle dishes. At the moment I am thinking about Carre des Feuillants and Alain Ducasse, and L'Ambroisie (although this also only operates a one month booking policy and I want to have some guaranteed back-ups in case this and Pierre Gagnaire also fall through) although I am also considering Pre Catalan as I have only been there once and it is open on Saturdays. Really looking for the best alternatives and would appreciate any advice. I have heard positive things about Le Meurice and some people seem not keen on Pre Catalan. All suggestions very very gratefully recieved.

I must agree with blind lemon that the Bristol is pretty expensive. But then I have been to nearly all the two-stars in Paris and none of them are much cheaper. You can save money by opting for cheaper wine and skipping an aperitif, but I think worrying about the cost ruins the meal a little. But this is to digress. I merely wanted to concur with higgins' comment on the cost of the Bristol although I did find it slightly cheaper than Michel Rostang, Guy Savoy or Ledoyen.

I have been to the Bristol twice in the last few months - both times with people who appreciate good food - and have thoroughly enjoyed it both times. The rooms and staff are delightful - particularly the oval winter room with its tapestry. The food is very good, I also ate at Guy Savoy, Ledoyen, Michel Rostang on these particular trips, and the Bristol compared very favourbaly with all of these. Guy Savoy was probably a class above, but otherwise the Bristol holds it own with all of these and in many ways I felt it was more consistent and enjoyable. The cheese course is the main weakness - although I also find Rostang poor on this front. Everything else is extremely good however and one of my companions who rarely raves about anything - declared the turbot at the Bristol the best ever - which is high praise indeed. If you go to the Bristol you will not be dissapointed - the whole experience is wonderfully elegant and thoroughly enchanting.

Thanks - this what I was hoping would be the case. Will report back when I return. Apart from the truffle en croute any other reccomendations? Does the carte have seasonal offerings too? Thanks for all the advice

Apologies to Steve and Bux! I think I explained myself badly. I am not trying to get French white truffles (if they existed which I think they do not). I know white truffles are from Piemonte and that French truffles are the more common black truffle from Perigord but I generally prefer the way that French restaurants use the white truffle than the Italians. Therefore I usually go to Paris in October for the white truffles rather than Italy but just wanted to make sure that if I went in late November they would still be available in the restaurants. Thanks for the information on game, I did not know the season continued through into winter. What about the wild mushrooms that come around in the fall? How long does that season last? The information on hotel is great - so would somewhere like the Montalembert be able to get reservations at L'Ambroisie if I gave them a month's notice? Looks like November is going to work which is great news!

Hi! I am planning to take my father to a couple of very nice meals in Paris in the Autumn. He is particularly fond of game, white truffles and mushrooms and I want to make sure we go at a time when these are still good and available. However it seems unlikely we will be able to go before about November sometime – maybe late October but more likely to be mid-November sometime. Is this too late? Or will these things still be around? I know that technically white truffles survive until December and game too, but I want to go when these things are at their best and if this means changing all my plans, then I am willing to do it. Also I would appreciate a bit of advice on how to get bookings at the 3-star places. In particular I am interested in Pierre Gagnaire, Le Grand Vefour or L’Ambroisie. Tried phoning the month before, faxing early, getting good concierges to try and so far have had little luck. Do certain hotels have more pull than others? I like to stay in smaller hotels such as the Balzac or the De Vigny but if a larger one would help guarantee a place then I am willing to try it. Also which one of these places do you think would be best for the game and white truffles etc? Already planning to go to Guy Savoy where I had a tremendous meal in October last year full of game and mushrooms and white truffles. But would appreciate suggestions on where else offers a very seasonal selection and how to book it. All suggestions and advice will be very gratefully received!

Hi! I have just booked Boyer ‘Les Crayeres’ for mid-October but have recently read reports that Gerard Boyer is not actually cooking anymore, having handed control of the kitchens to someone else. Is this true? Should I reconsider my booking? I am going in mid-October to get the game, mushrooms and truffles from Italy but would not want to feel that I am eating somewhere where the name is now just a name. Georges Blanc for example is a restaurant which although good is not that special anymore and its reputation seems to rest on past achievements. Any help and advice would be much appreciated.

In the past six months I have eaten at: Guy Savoy, Laurent, Ledoyen, Michel Rostang, Pre Catalan, and the Bristol. The best individual dishes have been at Guy Savoy, in terms of 'wow', but the most serene and ultimately enjoyable experiences for me have been at the Bristol and Michel Rostang. I ate twice at MR and the first was a little better than the second but both times the atmosphere and service was first class. Guy Savoy (visited twice - just before and after the third star) is a more kinetic experience and can be a little unsettling. Also I think the deserts are a little too cerebal and thus can leave one feeling a little flat at the end of the meal. The Bristol was a real gem for me - service was exceptional and the food was fantastic as well as genuinely inventive. Cheese is a little weak but this is only criticism I can think of. Ledoyen (again visited twice) has potential but I think has suffered from the third star and the whole place seems slightly ill at ease with its new status - it might need a year or two to settle. Laurent is for me too expensive for what it offers and can be cramped and the service rushed to the point of being genuinely rude - that said the food was at times exquisite. For me I would go for the Bristol but the wow factor might be lacking - the overall experience is faultless though. Thus I would say if this is the main requirement Guy Savoy or Pierre Gagnaire or L'Arpege (the last two judging from second hand sources) might be the best bet.

Not really no - in fact its a pretty depressing place. Its a very industrial port - built on the decline of one of the neighbouring towns whose name I have momentarily forgotten. That said Gault Millau awarded one of their annual awards to one of the simple brasseries in the town which should be good for a simple lunch or something. The name again escapes me but I will post with the details when I can. There are some very nice restaurants not too far away - such as La Taupiniere in Pont Aven which is extremely good. More of a lunch destination than dinner but very impressive use of local produce and reasonably good value.

Cabrales I am new to this forum but stayed at the Chateau de Locguenole last summer. The hotel is lovely and our room ( a superior) was very nice and spacious. However I booked this hotel on the strength of the Gault Millau very positive report on the restaurant but the chef (Phillipe Peudenier or something) who earned that assessment left that year and was replaced by a former chef at Marc Meneau's L'Esperance. I found the meals at the hotel good but nothing special and overpriced for what it was. Gault Millau rated it as a 17 before the departure of the chef, but my assessment of the new chef would be something closer to 14 or 15. Main courses were generally good but for Britanny the seafood seemed to lack freshness and flavour while starters were only average and deserts very variable. The wine list was fine and service nice but this was in many ways a dissapointment. However the hotel is great and what I ended up doing was spending a lot of time visiting other restaurants nearby. Of which L'Amphytrion was definitely the most impressive. Wonderful service, the head waiter used to work at Chez Nico, and the design and decor was extremely nice for such an unpromising exterior. My advice is to maybe stay in the hotel which is lovely but only eat there when you have to as there are much better and better value meals to be head nearby.