jumanggy
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Posts posted by jumanggy
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Unfortunately, there aren't any cookbooks, but there are some ways to get *some* recipes.
1. If you check out the official website, he does offer classes on how to make some pastries. These are held in Tokyo. A friend could perhaps pick up some stuff for you.
2. Sometimes the recipes get published in magazines. Already I found one for Matcha Madeleines.
3. There's already been a blog entry by someone attempting to copy the matcha opera, but the recipe has been taken down. It seems easy enough to experiment with.
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Looks amazing, from what I was able to browse in the store yesterday. A few eye-rolling moments for me (unnecessary "f*cks" and actually writing out "them" as "'em") but overall I'm excited. (Didn't buy it yet, though, looking for a better deal than here in Manila, where it's approximately $35. Might get it when I come to the States (but I hope I can still cook from it by then.)
I haven't eaten in Momofuku, but I think all the favorites are here (ramen of course, steamed buns, fried chicken). No Milk Bar recipes but I don't think many will care.
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Hm, I don't think it counts because you had to have had high expectations of the book
(But to be fair, I quite liked Jamie's Italy and Cook With Jamie, and I've cooked from the latter one quite a bit.)mkayahara and TimmDavis, shinboners has a review of Alinea to be found here. I know gfron1 has already stated he hasn't had a very high percentage of success with it (I think he said 60%, right?), but he's still happy with the inspiration it's given him.
Edit: I meant gfron1, not Tri2cook. Sorry!
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Watch Ina Garten and co. and they'll be using cups and spoons like mom, watch British cooking shows (Nigella, Jamie O are the most widely distributed) and they will be using scales like mum (though they don't talk about the merits of using one, but then again they don't give it a second thought).
I don't know if Alton Brown has had an episode of Good Eats where he talks about the advantages of using a scale. I would imagine a bread episode would/should.
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I was going to say Dessert Fourplay, because of the lack of variety in ingredients here (and the fact that the shortcakes I made from it sucked), but I've heard some of it's pretty good from gfron1. (But then I get to the States where all the ingredients are there, but I'm in someone else's kitchen where I don't have my tools!)
Right now, it's Rose's Heavenly Cakes (Beranbaum). Annoying, frustrating, more complicated than it has to be, HUGE margin for error, bizarre mixing methods. I can count a whole bunch of books on my shelf with cake- Herme, Bugat, Tartine, Greenspan, Braker, Claire Clark, Payard, Cook's Illustrated, and I've made cakes successfully from all of them without the constant stepping on eggshells (yes, even Flo Braker! Love her.).
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Absolutely. Canal House Cooking
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Hey Rona, we have a review of Pim's book here, but it's not really positive. I hope there's enough material in the review for you to draw your own conclusion
Reynaud's French Feasts has been published under the name "Ripailles" (been out for a while), so there may be plenty of opinions on it already.
There's a deluge of new books this month and a few more till the end of the year. Lamington and I should have a feature coming soon on our website that lists what interests us most out of them
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Hi Blether, one easy way to find Canadian cookbooks is to search by the publisher. Whitecap and Douglas & McIntyre are big names. I think there's at least one more, but it escapes me now. (Edit: It's two more publishers: Key Porter and Firefly Books.)
Speaking of which, one of my favorite baking books (I'm so predictable) was published in both England and Canada- it's Claire Clark's Indulge. Interestingly, she's the head pastry chef at The French Laundry so I don't know what happened there (er, it may be a simple case of just her being British to begin with).
I'm kind of saddened going through my shelves- there's not a lot of non-US titles: I have Jamie Oliver ones that I'm not ashamed to say I actually like (especially later on, post-"Jamie's Kitchen"- ugh), Elizabeth David, "Maze" by Jason Atherton and Gordon Ramsay, Nigella's "How to Eat". I also recall really, really wanting a Neil Perry title or two on the shelves here.
Also, there's the Phaidon Titles if you're a fan: Vefa's Kitchen, Creole, 1080 Recipes, I Know How to Cook, Terrine, Pork and Sons. Murdoch of Australia has also published Stephane Reynaud titles (Rotis and Ripailles).
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Thanks for the support, guys- actually I've baked a few rustic breads already (including Dan Lepard's Garlic Bread- I have his "Exceptional Breads" book), kneading by hand or using the autolyse technique. The one I was happiest with was also my most recent, Carol Field's Raisin Bread (from the Italian Baker). But what I'm still looking for is what fooey is describing.
I was able to take a peek at Gisslen's Professional Baking and here are his percentages for one recipe:
White Pan Bread
Water 60%
Fresh yeast 3.75%
Bread flour 100%
Salt 2.5%
Sugar 3.75%
Nonfat milk solids 5%
Shortening 3.75%
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I'll be following this thread closely- I'm very interested in using a white bread dough for making Japanese-style bread (you know, cute shapes, fillings, etc.). Unfortunately, I don't have a stand mixer.
I'll dig up a small cookbook I got from Hong Kong to check if the recipe comes close.
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Hey T2C, Will Goldfarb is supposedly working on a book, how about that?
I'll try to see if there's any word on this-- though at this stage the best, if not only, source is Sam himself.
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I was going to go with Braker's "The Simple Art of Perfect Baking", but it seems like she'd like something with plenty of images and starts from simple decorating advice. I know some Australian/UK books that are pretty good in this regard, but for the US, even something like Williams-Sonoma's book on cakes or Martha Stewart's Baking Handbook would be nice (flipping through her website for advice would also be a good start to see if the kind of advice and visuals suit her).
But the cake recipes in Simple Art, I really like. Plus when I was starting out baking, it helped me make my first step to being really systematic about baking cakes.
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Hi Tonto, you can follow the links from the official site (there's even a short video describing its philosophy and creation) here:
http://www.alajmo.it/store/dett_prodotto.asp?id=5&lingua=ing
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So sorry to hear that, GR
rest assured I'm sure many of us here would have been delighted to eat what you prepared. I was actually in the mood for some korean a while ago, too...Why not enlist a few close friends to get heaping portions of the stuff and mingle, telling everyone else, "Have you tried the noodles? They are FANTASTIC!" and stuff like that. Cheesy I know but it could work!
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Tartine's Brownies, which has only the five basic ingredients, plus salt and vanilla. Kind of problematic w/r/t the baking but really good. The sugar is brown sugar, but with the amount of time spent whipping it with the eggs for leavening, it's bound to leave behind a shattery crust.
I am, however, the type of person to prefer brownies to plain chocolate. Also agree with chefpeon; cocoa can turn out a respectable brownie. I just haven't made it. But they can make really deeply chocolatey cakes (the ones that call for boiling the cocoa in a sugar syrup, not recipes like Pierre Herme's cocoa cake).
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Leoni, while I think it's great that you've had greater success with the Italian method and aging egg whites (pictures please!!), I have to disagree with your statement that the egg whites have to be uncovered.
From Pierre Herme's "Macaron" (which uses the Italian Meringue method:)
Liquéfier préalablement les blancs d'oeufs: après avoir séparé les jaunes des blancs, partager ces derniers dans 2 jattes, recouvrir d'un film étirable percé de quelques trous et laisser reposer au réfrigérateur au moins 3 jours.Source: http://www.lexpress.fr/styles/saveurs/rece...ise_564064.html
He only requires 3 days in the fridge with a cover of plastic wrap pierced with a few holes. This is how I age my whites.
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Darn. That is awesome.
I'd seen the book in previews (via the eG forums also), but I can only dream of owning it (much less having the resources to actually do more than daydream with it!). Looking forward to what you guys create from it.
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That's been out for nearly a year now (oct 2008)-- you can read eG member Lamington's review of a Day at elBulli here.
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Yikes, sorry to hear that. I haven't made a lot of Macarons (four attempts), so that comes down to only a few hundred macarons; I'm just starting.
My first attempt was last year; slightly porous, tiny tiny feet, definitely undermixed. The next 3 are pictured here and are within a few days of each other.
Second attempt: worst batch ever. I could name a lot of things I did wrong: didn't work the syrup to the correct tempt, crystallized all over the place, a lot of it stuck to the bowl. I don't think these were undermixed, but I set the temp to 150C, no baking stone (my oven's only heat source is from above). Never developed any feet, tops started complaining, broke out in ugly pores. Horrible. Baked only for 12 minutes!
(By the way, these were not over-rested; they barely did.)
Third attempt was a good batch, but identical to the last one:
Patrick, this is for you: (sorry about the pics!)
Fourth attempt: Definitely undermixed. I've resolved that an undermixed batter can only be saved by a few more strokes of the spatula. So if the "nipples" aren't sinking into the piped blobs in a minute, it will never, so next time, I'd remove the contents of the piping bag back into the bowl, and fold again until a test drop does. By the way, I didn't have such patience for this batch, so I just ran a wet finger through the tips. It looked good going in, but the tips were magnified as they baked.
This time: only 135C, baking stone under. The feet are still pathetic, I know, but that's the best I've ever managed. I blame the 90% humidity (though I have no scientific basis). Baked around 11-12 minutes.
This is still the fourth attempt. I learned my lesson from the first batch I baked and gave the remaining batter a few more folds. Worked like a charm.
Bit-into. Largish air pocket, but I'm happy with it overall. I know it's a function of the temp mostly, but I've seen the results at higher than 135C in my oven and it still comes out. I could go lower (130C? 127C?) so there isn't much expansion from within the macaron and they stay relatively flat, but I'm afraid of not making any feet at all or underbaking them severely.
Now waiting for Duncan to laugh at these.
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Sorry to hear about your predicament, Leoni. Wasting 7 recipes worth of ingredients is extremely stressful, I can imagine. Unfortunately I've only ever done the Italian method, but Duncan of Syrup and Tang once told me when the crusts escape from a sea of insides (or something), it's overmixed. However, it's not a problem exclusive to overmixing, I would imagine, and the persistent nipples of the macarons tells me there's undermixing going on. (Sorry I can't be of more assistance; maybe you should try the Italian method too?)
But the fact that you consistently get it after 8 different sources tells me there's something fundamentally wrong with the resources, whether it's the ingredients, the oven, or the atmosphere. I hope someone else can tell you exactly what to do.
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Thanks for the insight and discussion, C_ and Max! Yeah, someone else (a person of Greek descent) reviewed it, I haven't even seen it on Philippine shelves yet, but thanks to you guys I have a pretty good idea of what it would be like. Greek is one of those popular cuisines I've never experienced outside a restaurant situation. I'll look forward to Operation Orzo, Max! (By the way, The Gastronomer's Bookshelf was in the midst of a redesign, hence the downtime, but thanks for noting the review-- it's back up now.)
There's another kind of title that you feel will be important- Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking (Chronicle, October; unlike Greek food, I know Chinese home cooking very well, but who wants to bet there still won't be advanced/master techniques in this book? Time will tell.)
More important-sounding books
American print of Ripailles (now called "French Feasts") by Stephane Reynaud
Silver Spoon Book of Pasta, again from Phaidon
The New Larousse Gastronomique
Paperback of Essential Cuisines of Mexico (Kennedy)
I Love Macarons (Chronicle, October/November) is written by a Japanese pastry chef. Still a fad in the States, but I've a feeling they're already catching the tail end of it? Yes/no?
Another book from an eGulleter: David Leite's The New Portuguese Table.
Something for Ferran Adria followers: Food for Thought. Thought for Food. I don't think there's any recipes in it, but plenty of food pron, (and of course insight into his creative process)
If anyone is seeking anything more specific, just ask!
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I've thought about using a swiss meringue- makes sense that it would work. I have a hand mixer and it's 7-minute frosting levels of easy. However, we were just gifted with a single-hob induction cooker, and it's been lots of fun just putting the sugar and water in a tiny saucepan and setting the temp it should be at (120C here)- didn't even need to swirl/stir/brush it! I stabilize the bowl with the egg whites on something (wet towel or gas hob), hand mixer on right hand, making revolutions, while the left hand pours the syrup in small increments on a single spot.
I have a fan-forced oven, and since the heating element is only at the top, I need a baking stone for feet. Keeping the temp as low as 130-135C gets rid of giant air pockets. My only problem now is the occasional undermixing, and the fact that while I get good feet in the oven, they nearly immediately sink back down to tiny feet as soon as they're out of the oven. Also, humidity is 90% here, so I need to freeze them on the parchment so they're not too friable when handling. (pictures soon).
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I know this is an old topic, but I really need help! (Okay, maybe not as desperately as I make it sound.) But before anything else:
Study of pacemakers and induction ovens
I hope there's been a newer study than this one! (2005)
We were gifted a single-hob induction cooker that was made in Taiwan. Induction cookers here are really cheap-- about US$30 is the cheapest I've seen, I think, but they work really well. The controls aren't the most helpful, though (and neither is the manual!).
Mine has some timer buttons, function buttons:
Boil (maxes out the temp and keeps on going for maybe 10 minutes)
Hotpot (stays at your desired temperature for 2 hours)
Porridge (starts out high for 2 minutes then low for a few more)
Stir-fry, Deep fry, and a few more I forgot. I always use just hotpot and boil because it's too fussy to try to remember what happens for the other settings.
The temperature dial goes from "Keep warm" (grr) - 120C - 150C - 180C - 210C - 240C.
Anyway. I had to buy new pans because we only had cheap aluminum and stainless steel ones (I only have one cast iron pan). So far, since I'm a pastry and baking guy, I've had great fun making sugar syrups of approximately the temperature I wanted the syrup to come to. Also found it great for simmering soups and reducing sauces, as I don't have to really keep an eye on it, and I like that it's more energy-efficient than gas.
I'm a bit of a klutz when it comes to anything else, though. I have no idea exactly what temperature I should have the pan/oil to saute onions and garlic (bitter bits, yum). I have no idea what temp it should be for a steak to sear properly. (I guess I never really took mastery of heat in the first place-- such an oven guy.) Is it still better to have a pot of baked beans in the oven for a long while or can I crank the induction up to 180C and call it a day? Has anyone tried dulce de leche on one- what temp would be advisable?
Can anyone give me some tips? Thanks!
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Why not just tell me I want a mixture of 70 percent meat and 30 percent fat? Or make the ratio 7:3? It's even more confusing when you get to his recipes, which call for 4 lbs. of meat to 1 lb. of fat, except for the chicken sausage recipe, which calls for 3.5 lbs. of meat to 1.5 lbs. of fat. Still not a 3:1 ratio to be found.
Oi. The number 7 is scary big! Incidentally, 3.5:1.5 is 7:3, so it's kind of double-weird. Maybe that part-of-the-fat-is-from-the-meat thing is really significant (assuming you were using breasts only for the chicken sausage, in which case you'd have to follow 7:3 exactly due to the leanness).
And, no soy sauce:dashi:mirin ratios? (oops, more residual arguments from the Elements of Cooking review thread...)
The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Pastry Arts
in Cookbooks & References
Posted · Edited by jumanggy (log)
I've been anticipating this release too, and while it's possible that it would follow the style of the pro books, the description does say that it's indispensable for a serious home baker (the catalog also adds, beginning professional pastry chef). You might want to use the other book in the series, The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Cuisine by the same publisher (Stewart Tabori and Chang) as a reference.
EDIT: Should've put my glasses on. This page:
http://www.abramsbooks.com/Books/The_Fundamental_Techniques_of_Classic_Pastry_Arts-9781584798033.html
has a preview on the upper right corner.