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e_monster

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Posts posted by e_monster

  1. Certainly we know that as meat cooks, particularly at higher temperates (like in a braise), the muscle fibers contract and squeeze out the juice, and that is what causes an overdone piece of meat to become dry and tough. But it isn't obvious that this takes place instantaneously, such that once it's been subjected to 131F, that's it, and nothing more is ever going to happen.

    I therefore think that an experiment is in order. I happen to have a couple of pieces of chuck in the freezer, and sufficient SV apparatus to cook both simultaneously at two different temperatures, beginning later this afternoon for dinner tomorrow night. These are 30mm thick, so they will take 1:23 to come up to temperature, after which I will hold them for 90 minutes to pasteurize them throughout. I will then lower the temperature on one to 120F/50C, and keep the other at 131/55C, and taste the difference after 24 hours.

    Fair?

    Bob,

    Pasteurization only kills the living bacteria, it does not kill spores. So, pasteurizing the meat and then holding the meat at 120F sounds iffy to me. I think you would need to sterilize (rather than pasteurize) the outer surface. Killing the spores requires high temperature--so you would need to do that with a torch and be confident that you don't have spores in the bag, etc.

    If you search the old thread (it is probably in the index), you will find an extensive discussion in which Nathan and Douglas discuss the various methods by which meat becomes tender. As mentioned above, the enyzmatic process by which meat becomes tender is a completely different process than the breakdown of the collagen. They discuss the various temperatures at which these things happen and how temperature comes into play. My understanding is that the length of time needed to pasteurize the meat is probably long enough to denature the enzymes. The time that it takes collagen to break down at 120F may be many times what it takes at 131F.

    That's my take anyway.

    Best,

    Edward

  2. Searing steak taken directly from 55c with an extremely hot grill pan (heated on my stove top wok burner) adds a maillard effect and produces lovely grill marks without seeming to cook the food below the surface. Perhaps your pans are simply not hot enough.

    Who was this aimed at? If this was directed towards my suggestion, my suggestion was for the case where you have little cubes of meat and want to sear several (or all sides). If the meat starts out at temp when doing such cubes, you get more heat penetration than when searing a full-sized steak on just two sides.

    With a steak of reasonable thickness, the relative penetration using a searing hot pan or a torch is minimal compared to the size of the meat. But when you start doing smaller cubes of meat, the relative penetration is higher because the the time to sear one side remains constant regardless of the size but you are now searing more sides. So, you get heat penetration from several directions instead of just two.

  3. At either temp and time, you won't get fat for eating. Try your torch. I am loathe to hold the torch on the fat long enough to achieve something I want to eat because I am always afraid of overcooking my meat. So I just justify this by the saving of the calories. I would torch it anyway, for looks, but I cut it away on my plate for eating.

    At Alinea, when they are doing cubed meat sous-vide, they chill the meat after cooking and then torch/salamander it from either cold or room temperature (I don't recall) so that the process of browning brings the meat up to temp without cooking it more. I haven't done that with beef but I have done it with pork belly and it works quite well. It takes practice to get perfect (I haven't perfected it, btw).

    --E

  4. Lots of opinions on the browning before/after approach. I'm a before guy, for reasons of taste, relative ease (to me, anyway), and probably utterly unjustifiable habit.

    For what its worth, if the decision were to be based solely on the impact on the flavor I think that you will find in a blind tasting that browning after has a far greater beneficial impact than browning before. Quite a few people have done blind or double-blind taste tests and the results that I've heard of are consistent. I think part of it is that there is a mouth-feel that plays into our experience of the food that is missing if the browning happens before the meat goes in the bag. But there may also be flavor components that are lost, too.

    As a sidenote, browning before and after seems to fare no better than items browned only afterwards in blind tasting. It might also be worth noting that in non-blind tastings, the reports seem to be far more varied.

    --E

  5. I'd be concerned with whatever the metal is that is used for the heat pipe. If it wasn't intended for being used for food preparation, the metal could be some sort of alloy that leaches metal into the food.

    Best,

    E

    I understand what you are talking about. But I think mercury as the latent heat transfer agent is used only for very high temperature heat pipe applications. Laptop CPUs operate at very low temperature therefore will not be using mercury.

    The CPU heat pipe is very well constructed and it is unlikely to leak. If it does leak it will suck in liquid not expel liquid because it is always under vacuum.

    I agree. One should always be careful with food.

    Dcarch

  6. DSCN2675.jpg

    Browned them up on my Big Green Egg - wasn't as hot as I would have liked.

    You will get much better searing with either a torch or a superhot pan (i.e. a pan that has been on high for 10 minutes before putting the meat in. It will take just 30 to 45 to get a nice crust and it won't cook the interior). It is hard to get develop a crust evenly and very quickly over coals. At least that has been my experience.

  7. ....

    Hi Anna,

    Nice to see that you're getting some success with sous vide.

    Your US cuts are different from the Australian/UK cuts. Sirloin here is a tender cut of meat. Apparently yours is less so.

    With less tender cuts, I tend to go long and slow. I'd try 12 hours at 55C (131F). If it's too mushy at the end of this, cut the cooking time down to six hours.

    I consider sirloin steak to be a relatively tender cut - nowhere near as tender as a rib eye but nothing I would ever consider braising either. Perhaps in the end sirloin and S-V are not a good match. Thanks.

    It depends on which part of the sirloin. Tri-tip used to be called bottom sirloin. And, in my opinion, 7 to 9 hours at 133 to 135F gives you a very flavorful and non-chewy steak. Whenever I cook one up, I cook 2 because it is so popular.

    I have tried various other sirloin cuts and I am just not a big fan of the texture. When cooked long enough to be truly tender, the mouth-feel is just not as pleasing to me as truly tender cuts like rib-eye. I have tried everything from a few hours to 24 and eventually gave up because the result were not tempting enough to find the magic combination. But that is just my personal preference.

  8. I'm curious which cuts of steak you prefer for SV cooking. I prefer to make the "perfect" steak over fire on high heat, but that's not always possible, so I've used my SV machine quite a bit lately.

    Last night I made some very nice boneless ribeye steaks, the meat turned out absolutely perfect, but the fat (and there's quite some) turned into a very unappetizing glibber, which probably is not all that surprising. I guess the fatty cuts are for high heat cooking or very long low and slow in the smoker?

    I'll try some lean grass fed cuts next, my guess being that they can't dry out in the machine and might turn out just utterly perfect, I might even convince myself to buy a fillet mignon, which I don't usually buy. Or cook a hanger steak for a really long time on low temp.

    I always sear in a very hot cast iron pan before slicing and serving, though I might skip that sometime, see what kind of presentation I can create with just a block of med-rare cooked beef.

    Short of cutting away most of the fat, do you use fattier parts SV, and if so - how?

    When you made the ribeye whose fat you were unhappy with, did you sear it so that the outer surface of the fat was crispy?

    For me the perfect ribeye is almost red in the interior and has a nice browned crust. I find that I can achieve this much more consistently via sous-vide than via traditional techniques. For me this is at around 128F (53.3C) with the crust created by a hot torch or a VERY hot pan with no oil for about 30 seconds per side. And when I say very hot, I mean a pan that has been on a high flame for about 10 minutes before the steak goes in.

    The result should be a nice browned exterior with somewhat crispy fat. The interior fat will be soft but won't have rendered out. I prefer very thick ribeyes with good marbling but trimmed of huge chunks of fat.

    Anyway, that's my take

  9. Tri-tip is not a tender cut, but it is nowhere near as tough as short ribs or brisket. I personally find 7 to 12 hours at 133F to be just about perfect. At 24 hours, I find it a too tender -- a bit mushy in the mouth. But there are people that do it for 24 hours.

    Best,

    Edward

    I just bought a 1 1/2 pound piece of prime tri tip and am thinking about cooking it with the Momofuko short rib marinade in the bag. In doing research on sous vide tri tip, I'm finding that some people are cooking it like a tender cut at 90 minutes, and some are cooking it more like short ribs, for 12, 24, even 48 hours. What gives? For best results, shouldn't the nature of the cut dictate that it be one or the other?

  10. ...

    So far I've made 4 beef dishes with cook times of 24-48 hours at 56-60C. Two were short ribs following the Momfuku recipe which includes a flavorful marinade in the bag. These turned out spectacularly well both times. The other two where boneless short ribs and bone-in chuck roast, each time seasoned with just salt & pepper before going into the bag. In both of these cases the smell of the juices/meat coming out the bag was...unappetizing to say the least. It didn't smell exactly spoiled or rotten; just off somehow. The meat came from different sources (Costco short ribs; grain-fed chuck roast from a local farm) and were prepared at different times. I confirmed bath temperature each time with a Thermapen. The prep conditions were sanitary and meat kept cold until entering bath and consumed within 30 minutes of leaving the bath. The bags hadn't puffed up or leaked. I ended up eating the meat in both cases and felt no ill effects. The meat itself tasted OK, especially after being torched & seasoned. The main issue really is just the smell of the meat when it comes out the bag.

    Has anyone else experienced this kind of bag odor with non-marinated beef? Are marinades for SV beef important to have a more appetizing aroma? Could this smell really be some sort of spoilage and I'm just lucky I didn't get sick?

    .....

    I have never experienced this and have done a lot of 48 to 72 hour cooks at 132F -- however -- a few people have mentioned it in the past. I don't know if the culprit was definitively identified by I seem to recall that there is a non-toxic organism that can produce this sort of off-taste -- and even if it is killed by cooking eventually, it may thrive as the meat gets up to pasteurization temp.

    It could be that the place where they butcher the meat has that organism (was it a malo-lactic sort of bacteria?) Or, it could be on your cutting board. If it happens with meat from multiple purveyors, it is probably in your kitchen.

    In any case, you can take care of it by either dunking the bag briefly in boiling water OR pre-searing the meat to sterilize the outside.

    Do a search for 'lactic' in the old Sous-Vide thread and you will find out more about this. Perhaps it is covered in the index.

  11. Have you tried Intellegentsia Black Cat for your espresso?

    No. Should I?

    Yes. If you order it mail order from them, you will be guaranteed that it is fresh. I roast my own coffee (which if you haven't tried -- I recommend -- you will be amazed at how much better home roasted beans are than most of what one buys) and occasionally buy some already-roasted coffee. Intelligentsia Black Cat is one of the few roasts that I have had in the last few years that impresses me. I must admit that I also find Illy's whole bean coffee quite good -- which surprises me.

    Fyi, I am still roasting with hot air popcorn poppers since it is so easy and the results so good that I haven't been tempted to get anything fancier.

    --E

  12. ...

    Given the unusual shape and substantial size, I've read backwards to page 62 in toto, and I still haven't found a calculation method for spheroids - the infinite slab calculations don't seem to be applicable. Extrapolating a bit, I'm looking at temps between 160 and 170, and I'm guessing that 24 hours +- would have both the desired pasteurization and gustatory effects. What I really need to have more confidence in is that given the size and shape, I'm getting through the danger zones in an appropriate amount of time, even from frozen.

    The big issue with big pieces like this is whether the center gets up to temperature fast enough. If the inside doesn't get up to temperature fast enough, it turns into an incubator.

  13. I would think a blowtorch is the best option, since a broiler will probably not give an even browning. Skin areas further from the radiant heat are likely to remain unbrowned.

    Hope this is of some help.

    Blowtorches are not very effective for crisping/browning poultry skin -- I continue to try every once in a while but have never found it to be very satisfactory. (Blowtorching works great for beef, though).

    For crisping the skin, a broiler is better than a blowtorch although it is not ideal.

    Pour-over frying (which I haven't used) is often mentioned as ideal for this by people who have tried every possible method -- it is a bit messy and you have to be careful not to splatter oil all over yourself.

  14. It was either Under Pressure or Momofuku that had said the SV'd short rib is the best example of why you just spent all that money. Go for it!

    I agree AND you need to make sure that you use good-quality meat. Boneless short-ribs and skirt steak have been my go-to meats for impressing people that don't know about sous-vide BUT recently I got some short-ribs from a butcher that I hadn't used before and the results were quite mediocre. The meat was tender but not flavorful.

  15. I'm wondering: is it worth distinguishing between briefly cooked meats and LTLT meats? It's pretty hard to sear something that's as fall-apart tender as some of these 48-72h proteins.

    In my opinion, if you cook beef until it is falling apart, it has been in the bath too long -- brisket and short ribs after 48 hours -- for example -- will be fork tender but not falling apart and hold up to a nice sear. For me, if the brisket gets to the point of falling apart, the texture is less than optimal.

    Pork belly is a bit different and seems to require chilling before cutting into the pieces that go into the frying pan for searing.

    That's my preference anyway.

  16. Thanks all! So I did a sniff test and was so excited to start the cooking that I totally forgot to do the pre-sear. :blink::unsure: But the short ribs came out beautifully. I chilled them in the afternoon and served them about 4 hours later after doing a quick warming in a warm water bath.

    So good that my Mother-in-Law demanded a sous vide machine for her Christmas present! :raz:

    If you are cooking to pasteurization, the pre-sear isn't important for short ribs. I have done quite a few blind tastings and pre-searing does not seem to impact flavor. Others have reported the same results. The only people that I know of that prefer pre-searing have done non-blind tastings.

    Best,

    Edward

  17. Am I doing something wrong or is it just my tastes?

    I picked up a sous vide magic and found an old big rice cooker and have made a handful of dishes using it including salmon, halibut, 48 hour short ribs, 24 hour hanger steak and this last week, 12 hour turkey confit with duck fat. Some of these dishes are considered on this board as transcendent experiences perfectly made for sous vide and yet other than the salmon (my personal favorite) and to a lesser extent, the halibut, I just haven't had a similar experience. The short ribs were good but I think I would have just preferred them braised. The hanger steak was perfectly medium rare and yet again, I think I would have preferred just using a very hot pan. The turkey confit was completely blah.

    So am I doing something wrong? or is this just a matter of tastes?

    Hi,

    You don't provide enough information about how you prepared the dishes. Details are critical. For any dish: time and temperature and also information about what went into the bag and how it was treated afterwards.

    Keep in mind that the quality of ingredients is critical.

    If you share the time and temps, etc. I can give you my .02

  18. Treated the same as most tough cuts I do 73c for 48 hours produced a tender awesome boned beef shank. Picture was from my first attempt, I've since adjusted for just a more of a medium rare.

    So my Sous vide magic is off by a crazy 15c. I am not the most tech savvy guy, any of you SVM guys know how to fix?

    Is that 73C minuse 15C to adjust for the bad sensor or is that actually 73C?

    73C (163.4F) seems pretty far from medium let alone medium rare (to me 56C is already moving from medium rare towards medium).

  19. Has anyone cooked beef shanks? I am wondering if I should treat them like short ribs (56C for 48 hours).

    Ideas?

    [Moderator note: The original Sous Vide: Recipes, Techniques & Equipment topic became too large for our servers to handle efficiently, so we've divided it up; the preceding part of this discussion is here: Sous Vide: Recipes, Techniques & Equipment (Part 7)]

  20. Not sure if the brining would affect timing, but my favourite pork belly setting, gleaned from various postings on this very thread, is 78-80°C for 10-12 hours. The fat melts, the meat gets stunningly tender and all's right with the world.

    Based on the texture of mine, I think anything over 12 hours at that temperature would certainly be too long.

    For the record 20 hours at 80C is too long!

    How do you treat the belly after removing from the cooker?

    I made the mistake of trying to serve it straight out of the cooker after a brief rest rather than chilling, cutting, heating/browning. The meat fell apart in the pan. It was super yummy but we ended up with finely shredded pork rather than the browned cubes I was aiming for.

  21. Good point...I do brine as well: a 7% salt 3% sugar brine is my favorite. I did cook belly twice and it was sublime - and transformed. I cooked it relatively high (80C) to get the fat softened, after first brining for 24 hours with aromatics. I took it from the bag and quick chilled it, cut it in cubes and then flash fried it to "brown and serve." It was sensational, decadent and DEFINITELY transformed. I used the bag juices, amended with reduced sweet cider, cider vinegar, brown sugar and balsamic vinegar, and this made a fabulous sauce. Brine, formula is: 7–10% salt, 0–3% sugar, water solution (70–100 grams salt and 0–30 grams sugar per 1 liter).

    How long do you cook the pork belly at 80C?

    Would 20 hours be too long?

    Thanks,

    Edward

  22. Can anyone report on torch effectiveness on turkey skin post-SV?

    I haven't yet found an effective way to use a torch on poultry skin, and I have tried a lot. Of course, I may simply not have figured out the right technique. I have tried chicken, turkey and duck and tried various techniques and never succeeded in getting it right -- and it seems like others have consistently reported the same difficulty. The two techniques that I have found effective have been a quick trip under the broiler and (even better but more work) is a brief frying in a skillet with peanut oil.

    I have read of people that are very happy with the results of pour-over frying but haven't tried it myself. It makes sense that it would work. The hot oil would only be in contact with the skin for a brief time. That would be enough to crisp the skin but not long enough transfer heat to the meat underneath it.

  23. My previous posting was based on the assumption that you would be putting the food in a vacuum bag and that you were hoping to use the dehydrator in place of a water bath. Health issues aside, if the food isn't in a bag, you are going to be dehydrating the food and won't get any of the sous-vide benefits.

    Air of any sort is a terrible thermal conductor compared to water. That's why we use temperature-controlled water baths rather than PID-controlled toaster or roaster ovens.

    The temperature inside a dehydrator is not very uniform, in addition, the thermostat is most likely a bi-metal type and is highly inaccurate (+- 10 degrees or more).

    In any case, it is to dehydrate, so you may be making jerkies if you cook meat long enough inside.

    Moving air is a very good thermal conductor, I think.

    dcarch

    I was using a thermoworks thermometer, which according to the manufacturer is accurate within .4f. And according to that thermometer, my dehydrator was holding a temp to +/- 2f over the course of 3 hrs. So temp control doesn't seem to be an issue, although I haven't checked it in different spots within the unit to see if it's consistent across the area of whatever I'd be cooking.

    What I'm not certain about are any potential health issues even if I maintain a temp above 130f since there's no plastic protecting the food.

    If there aren't any issues, I'm gonna try it out on dry rub style ribs - kalbi or "traditional" american bbq - since one of the downsides of sous vide is that it always stays wet in the bag.

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