As an admirer of Thomas Keller's food, restaurants, and beautiful cookbooks, I am saddened to file this brief report on breakfast at the Las Vegas arm of Bouchon. The food was tourist food. The front of the house was excellent, the kitchen was beautiful and humming quietly along, and the physical restaurant was ideal. But the food, unfortunately, was very disappointing. The pommes frites were unimpressive and quickly congealed as they cooled -- they were not served hot. The eggs were rubbery and overcooked. The croque madame was inelegantly presented and the mornay sauce underseasoned. The only food on our table that was even acceptable was the perfectly baked bread and the perfectly adequate coffee. If Thomas Keller cooked here, I'm sure things would be different. But they aren't. Bouchon in Las Vegas exists as a profit arm of Keller, Inc., and nothing more.