For a superb hole in the wall, visit Casa Marcos (Bar Bodega Las Campanas – look for it on Calle Merced, #21 - tel. 315.06.09). We also call it Pacharan because of the drink Juan serves at the end. It's small, smoky, and very Spanish. Try the bacalao, jamon de toro, chistorra, morcilla, and pan con tomates. Very old-school Spanish and super rustic. Scroll down to the "eating and drinking" paragraph of the listing on my blog for more info: http://biscuits_brioche.typepad.com/biscui...ek21/index.html And of course, Pinotxo Bar in the market is a definite must. Have a blast! Great food. Superb wine. Cool folks. What more can you ask for?