David Borkin

Went 2 nights ago (Saturday) and enjoyed lovely food and perfect service. Chatted with the man himself afterwards and he said he was aiming for a clubby atmosphere. If that's a club I want to be a member! There were 4 of us dining and we were all spoilt for choice. My duck egg with brown shrimp was lovely. A small boiled duck egg served shelld and whole with a perfectly judged yolk - soft without running across the plate. the shrimps were there more for flavour than content. and the shrimp-toast soldiers were there to mop up. My friend said her pidgeon salad was the best she'd ever had. I was slighly dissapointed that the game suet had gone off the menu, but cheered up again when I spotted the pig's trotter. Much to my fellow eater's relief the trotter was served such that it didn't look like a pig's foot standing on my plate. A cylinder of crisp coated, unctious lined and soft meat filled delight lay in a bed of creamed potoatoe speckled with additional pig-meat. A side order of roasted vegatables included salsify, which is a delicious but under-utilised vegatable - probably beacause it is a pain to prepare. I had cheese and I couldn't decide on whether to go for sweet or red wine. They solved it for me by givvng me 3 small tasters (sauterne, dry white and chianti) to match the different cheeses. My friends had rhubarb soufle with creme anglaise. A perfectly formed soufle was presented at table, and the waiter broke into the top and poured in the custard. This seemed to be the most popular choice as we saw many identical dishes going to table. My partner also loved her brownie with pickled walnuts, an interesting combination. All-in-all I'd say that the food is a good balance betweeen comfort food and adult eating. High quality, without being fussy. Wholesome ingredients, but letting you walk out without feeling like you need a wheelbarrow to carry your stomach.

I'd second the last post regarding Aux Armes de Bruxelles. It is living on rather than up to its reputation. I last went to Comme Chez Soi 3 years ago, and whilst it is a little cramped for space the food shows a marvelous dedication to delivering enjoyment without necessarily emptying your pockets. Probably the best soup I have ever tasted, and also the only restaurant where they come back and ask if you would like some more! However they have just lost one of their Michelin stars - personally I wouldn't let that put me off returning. Alternatively, if you want a slice of Belgium as opposed to Haute Cuisine, In't Spinnekopke is a traditional Tavern, that can offer a variety of beers as well as many hearty dishes, some cooked in beer (e.g. Lapin à la Gueuze, Carbonnades au Lambic). I can also recommend Armand and Ko, just off the other side of the Grand Place. Good Franco-Belgian bistrot, warm atmosphere and some good paysanne cooking, off the tourist radar, and for post-prandial delights, a cigar bar with excellent brandies.

I think you are on the right track casseroling the shoulder. I rate my attempt as one of my best ever dishes, and I have been loathe to do it again for fear of not meeting the same grade. I casseroled it with shallots (whole) in a good heavy red wine, and then added a few stoned cherries half way through to add some sweetness. My boar was strong enough to cope with these flavours, but I agree with the other comments - check the meat first, and make sure it has been hung long enough.

I've not been to every cheese shop in the world, but I have been to many throughout Europe and this is definitely the best I have come across. Some of the best restaurants in France source their cheese from Oliviers, and I can assure you that you will not be disappointed by the quality or the vast range. If you are travelling some distance to get their, then stay overnight and treat yourself to dinner at La Matelote. Just make sure that you are hungry, as the three course meal you order will actually be about 6-8 courses when you add in all the free tasters. Dont be put off - it is not overwhelming. It is all well paced, proportionate and beautifully presented. Back to Oliviers - dont forget to buy some of their cheesecake as well! One more note - whilst some shopkeepers in Boulogne speak English, I have yet to be served at Oliviers by an Anglophone, so brush up on your French and/or sign language.