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James Oseland

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  1. I think you're exactly right--too many coriander seeds (or maybe that batch of coriander seeds is bitter-ish?)....
  2. Hi. Trassi/belacan (same ingredient, just different names) is the firm substance in a block; the ingredient in a plastic tub is likely to be gapi (Thai shrimp paste, which is a bit more gooey)....
  3. Again, what terrific-looking food. I sense some dried-shrimp-paste anxiety out there. Let me see if I can dispel some of it. Though it's often vilified (especially in the West, but even sometimes in Southeast Asia), dried shrimp paste (belacan or trassi) is a harmless--and utterly essential--ingredient. A little dab of the substance rounds out dishes in the most wonderful way, giving them a subtle body and depth that they wouldn't otherwise have. Countless Indonesian/Malaysian/Singaporean foods just aren't the same without it--especially in its toasted state, which gives it a sophistication that it doesn't have when raw. Happily, a little goes a very long way--and it keeps seemingly forever. I find that a sole block of dried shrimp paste will last me a good eight months to a year. I store it wrapped in Saran Wrap, inside a Tupperware container, toward the back of the fridge (where it's colder). When I want to use it--the book says all this but I feel it bears repeating--I slice off the required portion (usually no more than a teaspoon or two), wrap it in foil, smash it down with the palm of my hand (to increase its surface area), then place it over a high flame. Depending on a bunch of environmental conditions, the packet will start to relief a whiff of smoke after about 30 seconds to a minute (sometimes longer). Flip the packet (I use two forks, or sometimes just one fork, but tongs will do, too), and repeat with the other side. Allow it to cool for a few seconds before unwrapping it and using it in the dish. (A market that I shop at regularly in Queens sells small pre-toasted packets of dried shrimp paste, eliminating the need for toasting it!) The amount of smoke (and smell) released into the room by this process is minimal at best--and whatever smell is released will likely soon be overwhelmed by the other fragrances coming from your cooking (the lemongrass, the lime leaves, the cinnamon, etc.). I live in a small Brooklyn apartment, and tested all the recipes in "Cradle of Flavor" innumerable times in its humble kitchen, and never had and complaints from guests or neighbors about dried shrimp paste--nor was there ever any lingering smell (even in the dead of winter). Fear not! Dried shrimp paste is a great ingredient! It just takes a little getting used to.
  4. I look forward to seeing the next results--the ayam panggang looks spot on. There aren't many online sources for candlenuts, but here's one: http://www.indomerchant.com/kemcannut.html
  5. A great question! Virtually every coconut milk-based curry in the book--from Padang fish curry to fern curry with shrimp--will get a lovely, subtle boost of earthy flavor from a tied up turmeric leaf (or two). Additionally, the young, not-so-sinewy leaves are sometimes used, very finely shredded, in salad dishes, such as nasi kerabu or nasi ulam (herbal rice salad). Ah, what a beautiful, pure ingredient--and an example of how Southeast Asian cooks find depth of flavor in so many surprising places.
  6. The food looks phenomenal! If only I could come over to enjoy! I've been giving thought to Asian-ingredient shopping in Seattle. Yes, Uajimaya is terrific. But I also love the small, mostly Cambodian-run shops along Rainier Avenue. The last time I was in town, I drove south, toward Renton, and stopped in about five great, friendly shops. I was able to find loads of frozen turmeric, fresh galangal, Thai chiles, etc. I can't wait for what comes next.
  7. Wow--what an honor. Let me know if you need any tips along the way. You're in Seattle? I can think of a few places for you to shop (but you may already have that part figured out). Anyway, selamat jalan (happy journey)!
  8. Hi, again, all. It's great and comforting to read your posts; sorry I didn't get back sooner, but we've been engrossed in closing the October issue (Colman's last) over here at Saveur. To respond, generally, though: --As God is my witness, there are DEFINITELY no air-guitar-playing chef cover guys in Saveur's future. --We're relaunching our website this fall with a much better recipe-search engine than the one currently available. --Yes, there'll be lots of Africa, Asia, and Middle East coverage in future issues. Anyway, I look forward to sharing the magazine with you--and chatting with you, too--in the months to come. Let me know what you think!
  9. Hi, all. James Oseland here, Saveur's new editor-in-chief (and formerly the magazine's executive editor). I'm here to answer your questions (and, if need be, alleviate any concerns that you might have about its future). First off, though, let me tell you a little about my affiliation with magazine, and how I came to my current position. I've been involved with Saveur since 1998 when I wrote a story for it about Baltimore. I soon started contributing regularly--there was never a time, in fact, over the following eight years when I wasn't working on at least one feature for the magazine. Last December, just as I was wrapping up work on a book that's being published next month by W. W. Norton (it's called "Cradle of Flavor: Home Cooking from the Spice Islands of Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore," and Christopher Hirsheimer, formerly of Saveur, shot most of the color photos in it), Margo True (Saveur's then-executive editor) called and told me that she was leaving, and asked if I'd like to replace her. The timing was perfect. I took the job, and have, since then, been helping to keep Saveur the smartest, realest, most joyous food magazine out there. Then, a few weeks ago, Colman told me he was leaving. And a few days later, I was offered the job. So, all that said, I want to let you know that Saveur is alive and strong. There are no Easy Bake recipes in the magazine's future, no stories about The 10 Hot Chefs of Portland; Todd Coleman, the magazine's great new(ish) food editor, and I are busy devising great, pure, interesting recipes for you, and the rest of the staff and I are figuring interesting places to take you to. Sure, there'll be a few tweaks and nudges here and there. But Saveur is Saveur. It has a soul that trancends those of us who work here. (And my apologies about the strange font in the satay recipe in the August/September issue; a software glitch at the printing press caused it, and the glitch has since been resolved.) Hope to hear from you all soon!
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