I always dine from the Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, which is not available in English. It has never led me astray. I recently tried out several of its recommendations in the 5 terre: Ripa del Sole, Riomaggiore This restaurant is well worth the climb to the top of town, where it benefits from lovely views of town and the sea. It is Slow Food par excellence. I enjoyed a sublime plate of trennette with tomatoes, fresh anchovies, and pine nuts, followed by a zuppa di pesce, seafood in tomato presented atop crostini. All their seafood was prepared perfectly. For dessert, squares of chocolate cake with zabaglione of Schiaccetra', accompanied by a glass of Schiaccetra'. just lovely. Osteria a Cantina de Mananan, Corniglia A tiny place, be sure to make reservations. The proprietor is warm and helpful, and will help you chose among the days' offerings posted on a blackboard on one wall. This is a good place to try a mixed appetizer plate of anchovies prepared 3 ways. Do try a spaghetti ai frutti di mare, which they're happy to make with whichever seafoods you prefer - just cicale or vongole - but you also can't go wrong letting them make the decisions. Enoteca Internazionale, Monterosso Not recommended for a real meal, but you can make a great light lunch of their regional wine tasting flights and a plate of anchovies and a salad. Our host rather brusquely insisted I write the names of the wines on our paper placemats next to the stem, quizzed me on which I preferred, and then gave a mini-lecture on the differences in production. He won no points for charm, but I learned more there about 5 terre wines than in the rest of the trip combined. There was another place highly recommended near Monterosso, Il Ciliegio, that was closed when I was there. Ask at the tourist office or at your hotel about it, they can tell you how to get there, as it is not in walking distance. And a note of warning: the hiking between towns is serious, go prepared.