Ruth in Condechi
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Posts posted by Ruth in Condechi
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Thank you so much for giving us that update!
I always tell my friends and visitors that if they come they have to stay for at least 4/5 days minimum. That is exactly enough time for just a "smidgen" taste of what this city has to offer.
So much more and so little time!
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Am dying for the "update" on this trip. What no remarks on the dining scence?
Was away in "El Norte" for the holidays and missed this very long list of places to eat -- we need the report!
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"Titita"/ Carmen Ramirez deGollado has after 30 years of being a single operation has accepted investor backing and is going to town with other locations. I was surprised as well but I can personally vouch that the Parque Delta location on Avenida Cuauhtemoc is faithfully rendering her recipes from the taco de Veracruz to the garnaches and panuchos. Yum Yum!
Servive is superb, prices remarkably reasonable (as always) and the Veracruzan menu exceptional.
As to the others, I wish her luck, sher has certainly paid her dues.
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Robyn, I love the craziness of the Merced, sights, smells, and trash all over but that being said -- it is not for tourists on their own. I wouldn't take a bag, camera or ANYTHING that would single me out as a non- native. If you want a market experience that is shockingly colorful and has everything the Merced has but is more manageable -- the San Juan Market on Calle Pugibet (closest corner Ave Luis Moya) closest Metro stop is Balderas (where you can stop into the Cuidadela crafts market ) and then walk east on the major avenue which is Chapultepec/Dr. Rio de la Loza (it changes names in this spot), look for the building high "Torre de Telephonos de Mexico", and turn left on Calle Luis Moya until Calle Pugibet where you would turn right and the market entrance is half way down the street. The vendors are friendly, don't mind pictures (recent book by anthropologist Jose Iturriaga) and will give you tastes of almost everything.
I love my city, but La merced on a Saturday is for the locals pushing,shoving and bargaining and remember NO pictures.
Definitely go to Pujol Chef Enrique Olvera is a must, but so is Martha Chapas Aguila y Sol and you still might make it for the all black Day of the Dead menu, if you are in Coyoacan go to El Tajin, the altares will not be all removed, you'll still catch some and if you want send me a message -- I live here and I want everyone to visit and ENJOY.
My site is still under construction but go to www.mexicosoulandessence.com and take a look.
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I am making my first trip to Mexico City about a week from now, I have done some searches and picked out some restaurants. Now I would like to refine the list.
I like the idea of traditional & new mexican restaurants with some great food in a variety of settings. Any recommendations on which to eliminate?
Any great one of these that I missed?
Also a bakery in Zona Rosa would be nice?
Historic area
•Fonda Don Chon - Regina 160 (@Jesus Maria) Aztec food
•Panaderia Ideal – N side of Republic de Uruguay W of Eje Central ? or some other bakery
•El Cardenal / Sherton Centro Historico, 9a-7p Palma 23
•Café de Tacuba - Tacuba 28 at Allende [Col Centro/Historic area]
Coyoacan
•Restaurante Los Danzantes Plaza Jardín Centenario No. 12, Col. Villa Coyoacán
Zona rosa
•Tezka, Amberes 78 @Liverpool,
•Fonda El Refugio Liverpool 166 @ Amberes, Zona Rosa
•Cicero-Centenario Londres 195
Are there any bakeries or good breakfast spots.
Polonco
•Aguila y Sol Molière 42 and Masaryk Col.
•Fonda del Claustro (was Fonda del Santa Clara) Homero 1910
•Hacienda los Morales - Vazquez de Mella 525
•Pujol - Francisco Petrarca 254.
San Angel
La Fonda del Recuerdo
Other:
El Bajio: address is Av. Cuitlahuac 2709
The first night plan to go to dinner on the way from the airport, are there any of these were it would be okay to come in with a 19in travel bag.
Any help would be appreciated?
http://www.restaurantesdemexico.com.mx/ for looking up phone numbers and addresses.
Some of your list is definite "not to be missed places". But I would be cautious on picking the right time to go since the Day of the Dead puente (long holiday) means more people in the city on vacation. First Don Chon is not in the Centro Historico, it is in the the Merced market area, closed Saturday and open from noon till about 5/6 PM. The rough atmosphere in the area would prompt me to recommend that you go with someone and to use public transport since this is a nightmare to navigate by car (taxi). Its fame as a place for pre-hispanic though, for me, is overblown. Do you really want to eat armadillio, crocodile or insects that must be in season for optimum flavor?
El Cardenal (there are two in the Centro Historico, one is the original) and Cafe Tacuba (the bullet hole story is still a good one) -- go so you can say you were there but I wouldn't rave.
You might do better at :
Hostería Santo Domingo (city's oldest - 1860)
Teléfono: 55 26 52 76 / 55 10 14 34
Dirección: Belisario Domínguez 72
Colonia:Centro Histórico
Referencia: entre República de Chile y República de Brasil
Horario: Lun. a Dom. de 9:00 a 22:30 hrs.
they have Chiles en Nogadas all year around and I wouldn't miss them even though you're supposed to eat them in September only.
The best in Cafes is the Cafe El Popular at Avenida 5 de Mayo #52, tel. 5518-6081. They are open 24 hours and the food is good and inexpensive. There is always a wait during "comida" hours, usually 2-4 PM. Breakfasts are hearty, well prepared and a great way to start the tour of the Centro Historic for me.
Coyoacan -- the Danzantes right on the plaza is great for people watching and for sampling 140 of the finest mezcals Mexico has to offer. The food can be super or just so-so, and I wouldn't take the risk if this were my only meal in this area. I would go instead to
El Tajin
Teléfono: 56 59 57 59 / 56 59 44 47
Dirección: Miguel Ángel de Quevedo, Num. 687
Colonia:Cuadrante de San Francisco
Referencia: dentro del Centro Cultural Veracruzano
Horario: Lun. a Dom. de 13:00 a 18:00 hrs.
where the owner Alicia De'Angeli has been wowing them for years. The grand dame of the cities culinary scene does Veracruzan style exquisitely.
Or just go to the Mercado Coyoacan after the Museo de Culturas Populares, the Day of the Dead in the patio has altares, ofrendas and food stalls and go to the food area and take your pick. Outside on the corner of Allende and Malitzin is the Jardin del pulpo for the best ceviches, vuelva a la vida and seafood in any number of ways. Communal tables makes it easy to see what every one else is having.
Tezka -- not going to Spain any time soon? Be prepared to dress up or be shunned.
Perhaps its my still lingering dislike of what the Zona Rosa has become that makes me head to Colonia Condesa (oh right, I even moved here!) but hey you can't have a bad meal in my nabe, even if you all you did was eat at the local puestos (street side vendors).Where do I start , oops I can't, my hubby needs dinner!
Will try to get back to this or send me an e-mail.
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We are both pretty devoted to food although the husband is only interested in the consumption part of the experience. One of the things I'd really like to do is to attend a cooking class at Susana Trilling's cooking school in Oaxaca.
Apart from that, we'd like to visit some ruins and also shop for local arts and crafts if possible. We also want to spend at least a couple of days in a beach that's relatively unspoilt and not touristy.. the icing on the cake would it be if we could also find good seafood there
. Oaxaca update: from today's Reforma newspaper Mexico City -- the baby steps to resolution of the teachers strike in Oaxaca by the APPO (teachers association). They have announced that they will vacate/ stop the occupation of the Zocalo (main square of the city). This is to alleviate the economic stress that the strike has occasioned to the restaurants and hotels in the area. The federal police though are still near the city and only the President of Mexico can order them to intervene, which is doubtful. Pres. Fox leaves office on Dec.1 leaving this to Felipe Calderon who I suspect will tread VERY cautiously, no one wants any violence!
If the governor of Oaxaca were to resign the conflict I think would quickly resolve.
There are still tourists in the area but I would suggest that you monitor the situation on a day to day basis. Being a resident of Mexico City my heart grieves for the people of Oaxaca and would hope that the conflict would end quickly.
I agree that Morelia/Patcuaro area is wonderful and the food wonderful, as it is throughout Mexico. You might want to contact Cristina P., who does tours of the area (expat resident of Gudalajara with 25 years in this area) at patalarga@baddog.com.
For Mexico City, where there cooking classes on almost a daily basis on regional Mexican cuisine you might want to contact another expat at princetoncooking@aol.com
Good luck and enjoy Mexico.
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Know the site. More like the directory for every restaurant in the city. Good for phone numbers and addresses. But for the real nitty gritty, yes research. That old go out and eat at restaurants that friends recommend , that you've heard rumors about and don't ever get back on the scale until the search has ended or the doctore tells you your cholesterol is about to put you in the hospital!
Life is never easy but you gotta do what you gotta do!
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We walked by the Appleby's and checked out their menu - it was "American" food of the most revulting variety. Nothing that could even remotely be considered Mexican much less regional. Unless in Chihuahua they claim to have invented "Buffalo wings"...so I don't know what they are talking about.
Well, perhaps it is time to do a "Best of Mexico City" list which would then include regional specialties? How about some help on this!
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Reading just parts of this thread has had me in fits of laughter! My own recollections after 35 years in the kitchen:
My first attempt at Thanksgiving dinner ( I was 18 ) for my family (my dad was a chef, my mother a fabulous latin american cook) I had all the courses done and dad was carving the bird when he started to serve the stuffing from the birds cavity -- and struck the giblet bag which I had forgotten to remove
But the bird was perfect!A second attempt at doing a Christmas dinner for family (always at least 10 people and more)
I enlisted help from the then current boyfriend who insisted on having espresso to be able to help -- we put the old fashioned Italian espresso pot (where you turn it over when the water is boiling) on the restaurant burner ( my parents had a restaurant on Thompson St in Grrenwich Village by then), I forgot, and the sound of the explosion woke everyone in the building (Oh did I forget -- all night party, why sleep, just get to it at 5 AM) the fire and police officers where actually very pleasant for the that time of the morning. Biggest problem -- the stains on the ceiling -- they were still there 25 years later.
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I do see quiche. Problem is, much of it tastes like it's been made with skim milk.
Since relocating to Mexico City from New York city the yen for certain foods has been growing. So for Mexican Independence Day ("El Grito") Sept.15 decided to do several Quiches a la Mexicana!
The following are the ingredients used in each:
1. rajas (slices of roasted poblano chiles), sundried tomatoes and sauteed onions.
2. sauteed zucchini flower blossms and sauteed onions. (green chiles could also be added but then you lose the delicate flavor of the blooms).
3. with crumbled chorizo and rajas.
And of course with HEAVY CREAM!
And how could I forget the nights big favorite; huitlacoche quiche with a touch of finely grated queso oaxaca!
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I do see quiche. Problem is, much of it tastes like it's been made with skim milk.
Since relocating to Mexico City from New York city the yen for certain foods has been growing. So for Mexican Independence Day ("El Grito") Sept.15 decided to do several Quiches a la Mexicana!
The following are the ingredients used in each:
1. rajas (slices of roasted poblano chiles), sundried tomatoes and sauteed onions.
2. sauteed zucchini flower blossms and sauteed onions. (green chiles could also be added but then you lose the delicate flavor of the blooms).
3. with crumbled chorizo and rajas.
And of course with HEAVY CREAM!
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Our "Grito" was a bit subdued, we stayed home and had an "empanada de mole" (puff pastry wrapped shredded chicken mole in lasagne pan), tricolored antojito of nopalitos with tomato, onion, radish and tomato along side of the thinnest chicharron ever (from Mercado Medallin) and thin strands of queso Oaxaca! Poor us?
As to the Hippodromo Hotel and Hip Kitchen, the opening is set for next Wed. evening and the staff has been hard at working doing mock run throughs and tasting menus. Staff is knowlegable and I have a very good feeling about the "fusion" style that seems to be the theme. Our local newspaper had the recipe for Richard Sandovals' " Salmon Maya" and the fact that he uses a black bean reduction as the base for the salmon and then a gratin of chayote says to me that the local ingredients will not be neglected.
Fresh and local, the way to go!
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What a wonderful, informative post, Ruth! Have you tried any of these combinations? Do you have a preference (cinnamon or no, sweeter or spicier)? I am trying to eat my way through Mexico but it is extremly difficult. Every day you find a different variant not only in chorizo but everything else as well. Since I am in the D.F. we tend to get a mosaic of what the central highlands have to offer but I haven't been out of the city in about 6 months so of course so much more to taste. My personal favorites , the chorizo when it is freshly made, only hung for a few hours to set the meat in the casing then slowly fried in its own fat (start at a low heat, let the chorizo release its own fat) then drain, do not let brown, and add a salsa verde to stew it a bit. Que delicia! Serve as a dinner or if any is left over at breakfast with eggs.
More later.
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Hello to all. My Mexican boyfriend and I have recently gotten into several heated discussions about the industrialization of Mexican food.
Having just shopped in the Tuesday Tianguis of Condesa here in Mexico City I can say that the open air markets are still going strong! From prehispanic times to the present they have doggedly served the mexican communities by providing for the smaller merchants a venue for farm product "just picked".
We must remember that when the spanish conquistadors arriveded in Mexico City ,the fabled Tenochtitlan, they found a market that surpassed anything that they knew of in Europe. It was not only a food market but the central place of commerce for all things produced. The extent of this great market is represented in the murals of Diego Rivera in the Palacio Nacional here in Mexico City just steps from the Zocalo which formed part of the tianguis. The remnants of this great market can be seen in La Merced market and in the tianguises which occur throughtout this city on various days. Yes today the "mercado en ruedas" or market on wheels still serves neighborhoods and can be as small as one street or run to 20 or so streets which is the case in the southern part of the city, which still retains some of the indian traditions. It is not unusual to find that your vendor is of indigenious raices and is naming her fruits,vegetables and other products in her language and not in Spanish.
As to the industrialization, some of the vendors may buy product from the Central de Abastos, the citys central market, but that would be expensive and the secret to the success of the tianguis is that everything is fresher, cheaper and BETTER as I have found.
Must go, will try to post later in day.
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From Ricardo Munoz Zurita's book "Diccionario Enciclopedia de Gastronomia Mexicana" I translate and paraphrase:
from the Spanis chorizo, to which it no longer bears ANY resemblance. Depending on the region of mexico the "chorizo" changes in flavour, color and size. Made with finely chopped pork, "unto" which would be lard, spices, ground chiles and vinegar. It is mixed well and left to rest ( a marriage of flavors) and then stuffed , hung in the air to "orear" which is not meant to air dry but to remove some moisture while still maintaing moistness. (Ah, the vagaries of language!)
In Baja California South and the center of Mexico you would use Chile Pasilla for color. In Chihuahua with Chile Colorado, garlic, vinegar and oregano and is left to dry at least 2 weeks. In Coahuila garlic, sweet flavored pimenton, vinegar, cinnamon, oregano, clove and pepper.
In Michoacan, Huetamo and the "Tierra Caliente" region a marinade is made of chile guajillo, chile puya, vinegar, garlic, bay leaf, marjoram, thyme, oregano, black pepper, fresh ground "gorda" pepper and salt.
There are 2 more pages of descriptives by region of "Mexican" style chorizo. Great reading! There is also green seasoned and yes with pine nuts, almonds and white wine. If any one wants more ingredients by region, just let me know. Or if you read spanish go for the book.
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Well you beat me to it! Applebees, right!!
You know this was a list for Capitalinos who need to be told where to go. I don't have my favorites by region because in a city this big its better to choose where to eat by where you will be. As well the most successful restaurants have board menus that cover more than one region. But if I had to give you my favorites: El Bajio for veracruzan style cuisine, especially now that its more accessible at the Parque Delta commercial center on Ave. Cuauhtemoc., maybe that's who they really meant on this list? For prehispanic it would have to be Don Chon near the La Merced market or the Hotentote for down home and funky but filled with the art of the "Hotentote" Jose Gomez Rosas. For tamales ( if you don't get up early enough to catch the locals at their favorite corners everywhere in the city) try Flor de Lis in Condesa on Huichapan No. 21 where tamales from every region are featured. For hot chocolate where else but El Moro on the Eje Central.
Sorry but I've got to run -- "El Grito" tonight (Mexican Cry of independence)
Que Viva Mexico, libre y independiente!
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El Universal published a list with a short description of the typical food of each Mexican State and a restaurant in Mexico City where the food can be tried. For some states, no restaurant was given.
Can you tell us when this list appeared? in Universal???
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As usual more "misinformation", but hey we are 2086 miles (3357 km) from NYC.
Am sure that the culinary sound bite does nothing for the food, but lots for the super chef image.
Today being "El Grito"(Hidalgo's Cry for Independence) at midnight I hope that you also will join in--
Que Viva Mexico, libre y independiente!
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Tunas are the fruit of the cactus. As with the cactus there are many varieties from the "blanca" (white fleshed, green skin) to the "rojo" (red) and "morada"(deep purple flesh). These sweet fruit varieties are delicious raw or prepared as "aguas", fresh fruit with sugar and water. The seeds are eaten, not spat out! Do be careful since the outer flesh is covered with small spines that can cause PAINFUL stings and burns. Wash and use small brush or peel entire skin off carefully.
Besides the sweet variety there is also the sour tuna fruit known as xoconostle which is used in cooking, most famously for the "mole de olla". In the state of Hidaldo, Mexico a young couple have turned their family home into a xoconostle enterprise with dried fruits, jams, jellies and even a dessert wine. Lucious, check out www.xoxoc.com, in spanish only for now. They wil be part of the Mexican contingent to the Slow Food- Terra Madre initiative this October in Turin Italy.
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You might want to check out www.gourmetsleuth.com and then to the dictionary. Good descriptive on Chayotes which are a marvelous vehicle for many preparations because of their neutral flavor. My favorite though is the stuffed meat version typical of the Caribbean, especially the island of Jamica where it is known as chocho
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May I suggest that any Diana Kennedy cookbook (shes published at least a dozen and was Rick Baylesses mentor) will give you true Mexican receipes more than any one else. As to steaks, here in Mexico the way to prepare steaks is preferably grilled over an open fire and then the sauces served on the side. A good cut of meat should NEVER be overcooked. If you are looking to make a "guisado" or stew like dish then go for stew meat, slow cooked, which is what your receipe sounds like.
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PS: Chef Olvera has been scheduled as a guest on NBC Today show for Sept.15 "El Grito"/Mexican Independence day. Try and catch him and give us a report . His food is wonderful check out his menu at www.pujol.com.mx.
I very much enjoyed my meal at Pujol. I will have to remember to try and record it. Thanks for the heads up!
Please do try and catch the show -- one of the few things I miss is not being able to see certain TV apperances by my favorite chefs. As a point of interest, I always wanted to catch the Rick Bayless season 2006 that featured 2 episodes dealing with the Distrito Federal (AKA Mexico City) one was "Mothers of Invention" which was filmed at El Bajio restaurant and had Carmen "Titita" Ramirez Degollado and other women chefs. The second episode was "Condesa -- Capital of Hip" my own neighborhood! Well of course no one I know has yet to master recording from a TV and when I inquired of www.fronteragrill.com THOSE WERE THE ONLY 2 EPISODES NOT INCLUDED IN THE BOXED SET FOR SALE!!! What gives???
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Maya used to be very good but has slipped a lot over the last few years.
Pampano was very good when it opened; haven't been since.
I'll be curious to see what people in Mexico City think of Sandoval's cooking. I always thought it was sort of "great [Mexican] for New York", but not "great absolute." I personally don't think that Maya at its best was a patch on, say, Aguila y Sol -- although I admit my perceptions may be colored by the two restaurants' respective locations.
Dear Sneakeater,
thank you for your comments. Please (since I am assuming you are still in NYC) give us more on Sandoval and his restaurants. Although I haven't been to Aguila y Sol I absolutely love Enrique Olvera at Pujol restaurant -- I believe that the young and innovative chefs of Mexico City are doing world class cuisine based on their "raices" (thats roots to you). I have already gained about 12 Lbs. in the year I have been in Condesa and its challenging to NOT GO OUT to eat every day!
PS: Chef Olvera has been scheduled as a guest on NBC Today show for Sept.15 "El Grito"/Mexican Independence day. Try and catch him and give us a report . His food is wonderful check out his menu at www.pujol.com.mx.
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Nick, Sandoval has been rated highly by the NY Times (**) and people I know who have been to Pompano rave about , what else, his seafood preparations. I haven't been and am waiting anxiously to see what they do here. The opening is set for Sept.8-9? They 've been announcing the opening since April though .... The web site for them mentions the opening under Sandovls bio, perhaps because this is his baby ( you know kid makes good in BIG CITY and now comes home to gloat).
And mil gracias for the loan of Mercado San Juan, will return it today. Where did you get it, I do want my own copy. Talk to soon.
Mexico City Dining
in Mexico: Dining
Posted
For an up close view of how Chef Enrique Olvera works his magic go to www.international-iacp.blogspot.com. For more info on his workshop ( and you might consider doing the trial membership) go to www.iacp.com and lookthrough the annual conference guide, this year its in Chicago.