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crew meal

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  1. I've used the confit method to successfully poach fish in oil, switching out the duck fat for olive oil. Preheat your over to 200 degrees F. Take a nice, meaty fillet of the fish of your choice (halibut, salmon, tuna, belly), salt it if you like, and put it in a deep, ovenproof vessel. Cover the fish with olive oil (by cover I mean "immerse"). The fish should be submerged in a bath of olive oil, and covered by at least a half inch, more is better. You needn't use your best extra-virgin olive oil. Inexpensive, light olive oil with a mild flavor is best in my book. Cover the vessel with foil and put it in the oven. The oil will slowly heat, gently cooking the fish from all sides and preventing it from drying out. It will need to stay in the oven for a while, but since I'm impatient I check frequently once the oil is up to temperature. With your thermometer, check for an internal temperature of 130-140 for halibut-type fish. For salmon and tuna, I like to stop at 120-130. Remove the fish gently from the oil (it will be very delicate) and serve. Once the oil cools, it can be well-strained, refrigerated, and re-used.
  2. Very belated, but... Thanks for the meticulous documentation of the WoF conference. I've been working in the kitchen at the conferences for the past three years, but considered 2006 the best yet. The hours at the conference are long to begin with; taking the extra time each day to photograph, write, and organize shows a real commitment. Although working in the Graystone kitchens was (and always is) a treat, it didn't afford any real opportunity to see the presentations or to hear the discussions. As the presentations and breakout sessions were going on, we were doing prep for upcoming demonstrations and cooking for the evening barrel room tastings. Your narrative and pictures actually gave me more of a sense of the conference than working at the conference!
  3. i've found several delicious uses for saba (which can also be called vincotto). 1. Finishing sauces, especially meat-red wine reductions, where it adds a fruity, not-overly-sweet roundness. Depending on how much sauce you're making, add anywhere from a drop to a few tablespoons a few minutes prior to serving. It's fairly thick, so it doesn't need any further reduction. 2. As a component in a marinade for poultry. Marinate small poultry breasts or pieces (quail, squab, chicken) in saba, salt, pepper and a touch of olive oil for several hours. Cook as you see fit, though I like to pan-sear them. Be careful, though, as saba has a high sugar content and will burn quickly if your heat is too high. 3. Glaze pork or lamb with saba and spices prior to roasting in a hot oven. See earlier note about high sugar content and potential for burning. 10-15 minutes seems to be the ideal amount of time to get a good caramelized crust without burning.
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