Badabing
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Posts posted by Badabing
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I've visited M&S a few times and Thorsten Schmidt is a lovely man, and a great talent. One of the best on the New Nordic scene. I think the tasting menu at Malling & Schmidt is one of the best in Denmark currently, and Thorsten doesn't just play around - his food is well thought through, well composed and extremely well tasting.
I recall the prices at M&S are about 890 dkr for the 9 course menu - which is a really good price for the experience. But you can actually get a 3 course menu for about 350 dkr, which is a bargain.
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A meal, provided you do menu + wine pairings at Relæ ends up at about 700 dkr, where Noma ends at 2.000 dkr. So I guess the price was about a third, not half?
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So the Michelin stars for 2010 are in.
TWO STARS
- Frantzén/Lindeberg (New with two stars)
- Mathias Dahlgren Matsalen
ONE STAR:
- Mathias Dahlgren Matbaren
- Esperanto
- Fredsgatan 12
- Lux Stockholm
LOST STARS:
- Operakällaren
- Leijontornet
Comment: Good to see F/L get a second - surprising - star. I haven't had the opportunity to eat there yet, but heard only good things. Mathias Dahlgen will have to wait for his third star, which was probably expected. It would have been too soon. However, with his culinary genius and financial backing of the Wallenbergs, I am sure that he will have both the dedication and means to lift the restaurant to *** within a few years.
Sad to see the lost star of Operakällaren after 13 years. I was there pretty recently and had a very good experience. They were also named the best overall restaurant experience in Sweden by the White Guide just a few weeks ago, so this was quite unexpected in my book. But I'm sure they will be back for 2011 with a well deserved star again.
All in all, it seems the downward spiral is continuing. Copenhagen is now clearly the frontrunner in Scandinavia with its abundance of starred restaurants (even if Sthlm is the only city with two 2-star establishments). It will be interesting to see if Stockholm can gather strength once again and come back...
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Reaching out to the good people of Egullet. Having just finished my first cookbook, I am now in the process of finding a good literary agent for the US market. I have a pretty decent list of agents from the Writers Market website, but that doesn't really say much more than "we do cookbooks". So, if anyone has a good tip or a few pointers as to which agents are the best - it will be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Badabing
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The new White Guide came out today - with the following results for Stockholm restaurants:
The first number is the food points (maximum 40) and the second one is the total points (maximum 100)
1. Mathias Dahlgren - Matsalen
Stockholm 37/92
Oaxen Krog
Hölö 37/92
4. Esperanto
Stockholm 37/89
6. Operakällaren
Stockholm 36/93 (highest total score of all)
7. F12 Restaurant
Stockholm 36/91
9. Lux Stockholm
Stockholm 36/87
11. Frantzén / Lindeberg
Stockholm 36/84
12. Mistral
Stockholm 36/83
Will we see a third Michelin star for Mathias Dahlgren, or will he have to wait one more year and see Noma take the Nordic throne alone?
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To summarize in english:
Mathias Dahlgrén does indeed receive two stars for Matsalen at Grand Hotel. He also recives one star for his Matsalen.
A new Michelin star also goes to restaurant Frantzén/Lindeberg.
Oherwise the Stockholm stars are the same as last year:
Edsbacka krog keeps their two stars, Esperanto, F 12, Lux, Leijontornet and Operakällaren keep their star.
Kudos to Dahlgren, that was quite unexpected - not the two stars, but the one for Matbaren. Well deserved though!
So the question rises about which Scandinavian city is the Capital Of Food. Copenhagen - were Noma surprisingly did NOT get their sought after third star - might claim it on basis of having 14 stars in total. However, with Stockholm being the only city with two double stellar restaurants they might now claim the throne based on a higher top level (though only 11 stars in total).
Any thoughts?
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Noma didn't get a third, but Copenhagen retains its status as the #1 city in Scandinavia in terms of the number of restaurants with stars. Sweden continues to be the #1 country in Scandinavia however, with 12 star-restaurants in total... So now, the tourist boards can spin it either way
Copenhagen Stars
Two stars:
Noma **
One star:
Ensemble *
Era Ora *
formel B *
Geranium * (New)
Kiin Kiin * (New)
Kong Hans’ Kælder *
MR *
Paustian * (New)
Søllerød Kro *
The Paul *
Comments?
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Wow - that is a nuclear bomb!!! Is it due to the lack of presence of Eyvind Hellstrøm in the kitchen??
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Interesting to see that Leijontornet FINALLY got their star. I expected it 1-2 years ago, but for some reason the guide didn't recognize it until now.
MD - hands down the best restaurant in Sweden at the moment, and I would be VERY surprised if it doesn't have 2 stars in a year from now.
Operakällaren - well, I think they are struggling quite a bit at the moment, and if they don't get their s**t together they might follow in the footsteps of Wedholms in a year or two... With the amount of financial resources they have, I doubt that they will let that happen though.
Still too bad that Oaxen is not eligible due to their location....
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Skina is certainly not a favourite of mine. Very high ambitions in terms of food and service, but honestly - they do not deliver. Service is VERY rough around the edges and the kitchen does not really have the talent to pull the high gastronomical ambitions they have off. I have not been very impressed in any of my three visits the last year. They are a bit too desperate to be noticed by Michelin - and they are handing out phone numbers to the spanish Michelin office to many guests... Not that confident.
For me, the top Marbella restaurants right now are Messina, Mezzo, Mesana (what's with the name trend by the way?) and Calima - in that order - in terms of contemporary cooking. I was disappointed with my first visit to Calima, but two weeks ago I went there again, and was blown away completely.
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On my own tab? Around 200 EUR / person seem to be the standard tasting menu rate including wine in Europe.
Not on my own tab? A 6 person dinner at Babilonia/Olivia Valere in Marbella which took a wrong turn after the maincourse, when somebody ordered in a jeroboam sized Grey Goose and 3 magnum Cristal... The total tab was close to 7.000 EUR, but luckily I was not in the line of fire in terms of paying for it...
Though, come to think of it, I did actually pay for it - with the greatest hangover in the history of mankind...
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Had a long, four hour dinner at Calima yesterday. Huge expectations after being a fan since the Tragabuches years...
First of all - a beautiful setting. Literally ON the beach, overlooking the Mediterranean. Fantastic terrace, and some nice touches to the decor.
Service was not consistant, and I am personally allergic to NOT being told what is on the plate in front of me. We got the menu printed on a piece of (beautiful) paper - I would have appreciated some oral information aswell. All in all, not inspiring or confident dining room work - although attentive.
Food? I had basically the same menu as Rogelio above, and although ambitious I did not like it at all. For me, I am happy to eat food which is experimental, technical, difficult and wierd - but at the end of the day, it is all about taste. And in my book, Calima did not deliver the goods in that aspect last night. In terms of being "new andalucian", well yes, it was. Most dishes are new takes on classic southern Spain cooking - but in my opinion the only dish that was really improved by Dani and his team was turning the Urta into maki rolls. Sublime. Other than that - I found most other dishes quite bland, overly salted and without deeper thought. And when one of the best in the menu is the classic Fois Gras Mille Feuille, for me that is a sign that something in wrong.
Wines? The best part of the visit. We were taken on a tour of the (very interesting) new wine scene in southern Spain making some striking new acquaintances...
For me, location, ambitions and sommelier work live up to Michelin standard. But unfortunantely the most important part - the food - does not. Calima was a disappointment and it really saddens me.
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percyn.
Unfortunately, Bon Lloc has since closed. However, Chef Dahlgren told me that he planned on opening another, more down-scaled restaurant. I believe it has already opened, or will be opening soon.
Anyone have any idea?
u.e.
Mathias Dahlgren will be opening the new restaurant at the Grand Hotel in Stockholm sometime this spring. In his own words, "the goal is to create one of the best restaurants in Europe"... Bold statement...
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I'm off to Stockholm in October and browsing through this board and a few others, I'm amazed that "Edsbacka Krog", the only 2 Michelin starred-establishment isn't very high on anyone's list.
Has anyone tried it recently? I'd like some advice from a fellow eg'er before I shell out a king's ransom.
Also wonder whether anyone has been to Mistral, dubbed "Sweden's answer to El Bulli"...a 6-table place with dishes like almond and Jerusalem artichoke soup with fried apples; mackerel sashimi with crisped pork skin and oyster foam, caviar and fresh herbs, and the signature lamb's-neck confit in pimento-ey chorizo fat
I think the reason is that Edsbacka will not bring anything new to the table. You will definitely get excellent food - Fois Gras (one of the few in Stockholm still serving it "officially") de canard en tranches minces, framboises et brioche aux herbes. Coquilles St. Jaques légèrement grillées, porc et baies d'argousier. Magret de canard, foie gras de canard poêlé, sauce aux cerises et carottes. You get the picture... I love Edsbacka - but my curiosity would never take me there. BUT - looking for really good french food with a twist of the north: GO THERE!!
Right now, Mistral and Esperanto are the "Pepsis" (the choice of a new generation) of Stockholm, and they are good. Some people might think they are too experimental and I am personally quite tired of the overly crazy, but honestly - theryre fantastic. Which should you choose? Depends on you mood. Where Esperanto is contemporary and young in both flavor and look - Mistral is nature, organic flavors and produce, nose to tail... You get it...
My personal favourite at the moment is Lux...
Some websites:
www.edsbackakrog.se
www.esperantorestaurant.se
www.luxstockholm.se
Mistral does not have a website - but an email rest.mistral@telia.com for reservations.
Have a great time!
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No updated here for a while, so I just wanted to add three of my absolute favourites in Tallinn.
1) Ö. Means island in swedish. A very chich and trendy place, with beautiful decor. Food is modern and actually quite well prepared. Service a bit slow as in all old eastern european countries, but nice and welcoming. I really liked this place, and the food was excellent. A bit on the expensive side for Tallinn, but well worth its money!
2) Silk Sushi. Actually one of the best sushi places I have ever been to outside of Japan. I cannot even begin to explain how fantastic it is - go there! You will NOT be disappointed!
3) Bocca. I believe they have the same owners as Ö. Also a very modern and chic place, with mostly expats or "urban tourists" as guests. Kitchen is new-italian, and very tastefully prepared. Service is a bit cold, but the environment is warm and welcoming. Also a nice bar for a quick glass of champagne before going out in the evening.
As you see - no "traditional Estonian" restaurants here, and to be honest I am still looking for a really good one, without all the ingredients of a true tourist trap...
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I have not been there but from what I read Thornströms is a great rec. An institution for seafood in Gothenburg is Sjömagasinet. Very, very expensive but rumour has it that the restaurant is in very good form currenlty. http://www.sjomagasinet.se/lang.asp?lang=eng
Also recommended currently is Fond http://www.fondrestaurang.com/
Sjömagasinet - for sure! Fantastic seafood. Truly amazing! Very much a "classic fine cuisine place". If you are looking for modern cooking, look elsewhere.
Smaka - for swedish comfort food. Very down to earth, but nice traditional cooking.
Bliss - for a fun meal. Modern, funky, euro-asian tapas cuisine and a bustling bar scene.
M2 - Across the street from Bliss. Also a modern type cuisine with high ambitions. For the rich and the beautiful. Very nice cooking, but not "star quality".
Fiskekrogen - Seafood. Almost as good as Sjömagasinet, but with a more rustique feel.
Heaven23 - Sky bar at the Gothia Hotel. Famous for their shrimp sandwich (which is amazing) and for their fab views of the city. Restaurant with high ambitions aswell.
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Wonderful - thank you all! I have now reserved tables at Hakkasan for staturday lunch and The Capital for sunday... Can't wait to try them!
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if anyone can recommend a really nice place for lunch, which is open on saturdays,
Oh dear. That's going to be rather a tall order.
Most of us spend Saturdays bemoaning the plumbing through our awful teeth or indulging in random soccer violence.
Pretty much all the restaurants in our little town will shut for the whole week-end while the staff return to their thatched homes to indulge in pagan rituals.
Give me a couple of hours and I'll see if I can remember the name of an inkeeper who might let you in for a bit of cheese and some boiled mutton.
(PS. Don't trust the cab drivers. They'll drive you to their hovels in the East End, slaughter you and have their toothless wives bake you into pies)
Well, it seems as if your right... Gordon Ramsay, Tom Aikens, The Ledbury, The Square, Maze. All closed for lunch on saturday...
I guess I'll just have to go for a quick burger at The Golden Arches...
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I am heading for a weekend in London, and I have reservations at Sketch for dinner on saturday. However - if anyone can recommend a really nice place for lunch, which is open on saturdays, I would be very grateful. I am looking for a place which has either
1) High level of gastronomy
or
2) Lively and interesting venue
or
3) Both
Location? I have no idea. I can never find anything in London anyway, so as long as it is possible to reach by cab.
Thank you very much in advance!
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Well, my mistake on Bagatelle - I forgot. I also forgot L' Ensemble in Copenhagen, but they actually could not keep their second star and are now down to one again...
All in all, the last few years of culinary development has resulted in 10 Michelin stars for the danish capital (and another 5-10 that are in that class). This is actually quite amazing, and since Stockholm lost two stars in Wedholms and Bon Lloc, Copenhagen must (for now) be considered THE top culinary city in Scandinavia! Applause!
However, in the coming years - you will most definitely see more stars from Stockholm. Esperanto, Leijontornet, Pontus, Centro and Vassa Eggen are the safest bets...
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Now, the last year has brought some changes to the Swedish capital, and here is a brief update:
- Bon Lloc is now closed after a very successful journey. Missed by many, even though yours truly did have two disappointing experiences at this usually fantastic restaurant during the last year. Chef Mattias Dahlgren will open a new place in the nearest future, but no news about when, where or how yet...
- Franska Matsalen (The French Dining Room) at the Grand Hotel also closed recently after more than 120 years of culinary exellence. This stiff, but beautiful restaurant was re-vamped in the late 80's and has since then become less stiff and less traditional. Not less expensive, though... The Grand Hotel will apparently be launching a new concept in the coming year, but I will certainly miss this temple of taste!
- Lux. Situated in an old factory canteen outside the centre of Stockholm, Lux is certainly one of my new favourites. This 2 year old is very confident and, in my book, also truly competent. Experimental and avant garde, but always with respect for traditional values and techniques - it is both new and familiar at the same time. So, you can easily invite both your mother in law AND your most advanced foodie friends without being nervous about the reactions. Highly recommended!
- Mistral. I have yet to try this Old Town Liliput restaurant. Only 5 tables and a two month waiting list has created quite a buzz around it, and it has recieved massive press appreciation. However, some quests do think that the menu is a bit too provocative - and they really do try to challenge your taste buds. Not the El Bulli way, but with serving very homey and traditional dishes and ingredients in a not-so-traditional style.
- Centro. A new place, situated in the epicentre of Stockholm. After a 2 million EUR renovation of an old irish pub, Centro is now a very modern and confident newcomer. Bustling bar scene and very high ambitions in the kitchen. Obviously El Bulli/Fat Duck inspired, but less experimental and provocative and with some of the best food I have had in Europe for a long time. Certainly worth a visit, but if you want a quiet and romantic evening, be warned. This is not your traditional fine-cuisine place...
- Nox. Exclusively renovated old bank in the centre of town. Beautiful and very cosmopolitan. Not for the Michelin seeker, but highly recommended for a bisto dinner of the highest standard. Noisy and crowded, and with a very chich "Nikki Beach Style" garden.
- GQ. Stands for gastronomic intelligence. Have not been there yet, so I can´t recommend it, BUT I do know that the people behind it are very competent. Many years at the traditional luxury style "Gässlingen" is a blue stamp for cooking at the highest level. GQ however, is less traditional than Gässlingen, and more into the GI, lowcarb blah blah blah trends...
Some of the "good old ones":
- F12. Modern food. Modern interior. Modern outside balcony with modern club kids and a DJ. Very traditional business type guests. Food is not challenging, but always right in the middle of the current trend, and very well prepared. Worth a visit!
- Operakällaren. At the opera house, this is an institution in swedish culinary life. The dining room is absolutely stunning and with the mix of the new ultra chic cocktail veranda - this place has come alive again! The cooking is very traditional high end french cuisine, and the level of quality is fantastic. You will not be suprised by anything this place has to offer, but at the same time - it will never let you down!
- Pontus In The Green House. Another favourite. The still young Pontus Fritihof blends traditional french cuisine with both new and old world influences. On the outside, this is a very old fashioned place, and the service is really traditional luxury style. However, the cooking is sublime and actually quite contemporary. Also, if the sampler menu is too steep for you - the three course fixed price menu at around 36 EUR is honestly one of Stockholms best bargains (and best kept secrets until now)!
- Vassa Eggen. Is now well established as one of the best in town. Modern settings, and a very competent kitchen. I have only tried the once, but it was a very nice experience. Well planned menu, and truly balanced tastes aswell as impressive sommelier work. Placed in the Elite Plaza Hotel in down town Stockholm.
- Edsbacka Krog. The only two star Michelin restaurant in Scandinavia. Very traditional french cuisine, and obviously very good food. In my mind, it is a bit stiff unless you are celebrating something special - but thats just me. Beautifully set 20 minutes outside Stockholm. Worth a try, if you can afford it!
Phew.. That was some of them for my first post here. Might come up with some more later on...
Malling & Schmidt
in Elsewhere in Europe: Dining
Posted
Malling & Schmidt is fantastic - check out this review at Honest Cooking:
http://honestcooking.com/2011/06/30/review-malling-schmidt-new-nordic-restaurant/