David Ross

From a technical standpoint, the grass-fed beef did not shrink during cooking and it didn't seep out water like you find when cooking with the basic, "10% solution added" hamburger you buy at the supermarket.

Every now and then I make a homemade hamburger for dinner. Nothing I've found locally from a restaurant comes close-although I do prefer restaurant fries over the fries I attempt to make at home. Two weeks ago I travelled to Oregon to visit family. On the way home I stopped at a Whole Foods market South of Portland. Unfortunately, we don't have a grocery store on the level of Whole Foods in Spokane. I bought some "Organic, Grass-Fed Hamburger" because I've been interested in this current debate as to the merits and taste of Grass-Fed beef over traditionally raised beef-ie. pasture-fed and then fattened on grain and/or corn in a feedlot. I found these beautiful brioche hamburger buns from a bakery in San Francisco. Sorry, I can't give the bakers their due credit because I ate all the buns and the wrapping went in the recycling bin before I got the name of the bakery! I dress my burgers with shredded iceberg lettuce, dill pickle chips, thousand island dressing and cheddar cheese. Instead of my normally feeble attempt at fries I made passable homemade potato chips. The minute the burger hit the pan it smelled very "beefy"-just like I remember the hamburgers my Grandmother cooked on our family cattle ranch many years ago. I was anticipating becoming a "Grass-Fed" fan. Then I tasted the burger. It was good-very juicy and very flavorful. It wasn't sweet like buffalo, but it didn't have the beef flavor I'm used to. I wouldn't describe the taste as "grassy" or "herbal," it just seemed to taste a bit off. I'm usually not at a loss for words when describing foods, but in this case I can't really find the exact words to convey the taste of this beef. Let's leave it at I'm not going to buy more grass-fed beef. Organic, probably. Naturally-raised, yes. But good or bad, maybe my taste buds are numb to grass-fed beef. I think I'll stay with cattle who graze on grass, then are finished with corn and grain. Enjoy the picture.

How beautiful. I am at work today, so won't be having Thanksgiving until Saturday. But oh how you've made my day-at-work-on-a-holiday so much better. I think I can actually sense the steam coming off those delicious rolls, (and those wondrous, golden, puffy tops-perfect). Thank you indeed.

I'm planning a Northwest theme Thanksgiving with a focus on local products. I'll take pictures for everyone of each dish. Here's the menu so far: -Smoked Pacific Turbot, Smoked Sea Scallops, Flying Fish Roe, Olive Oil, Lemon, Radish Sprouts. (The Turbot and Scallops are from Gerard Dominique's Seafood of Woodinville, Washington). -Apple, Pear, Parsnip Salad with Bleu Cheese, Toasted Hazelnuts and Apple Cider Vinaigrette. (I'll be using Bartlett Pears and Pinova Apples from Washington, Oregon Hazelnuts and Bleu Cheese). -Traditional Turkey, Sausage Dressing with Apples and Pecans, Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Walnuts, Cranberry-Apple Cider Compote, Mashed Potatoes. (The only Northwest products will be the Apple Cider and Idaho Russet Potatoes). -Northwest Cheeses with Fruit and Nut Crostini and Blackberry Honeycomb. (The Cheeses are from Oregon and Washington, the Biscottie from Anjou Baker of Cashmere, Washington and the Honeycomb from Bauman Farms of Salem, Oregon). -Apple Pie with Pumpkin Ice Cream. (The apples are from an Organic orchard in Central Washington). -Mince Pie with Bourbon Whipped Cream. (The pie is from Cyrus O'Leary's bakery of Spokane). Lots of good food and I hope lots of leftovers for wonderful lunches.

All I have to say is delicious, delicious, delicious. And I'll be trying the method next weekend........

Last night dinner was "Casarecce" Carbonara with Applewood Smoked Bacon and Fresh Oregon Chanterelles. Lots of Parmesano-Reggiano, Eggs and a touch of cream. I will easily forsake meat for dinner if I can have a big bowl of this pasta.

Wonderful Chicken Cordon Bleu Percyn. I'm going to put that on my 'to do' list. A couple of weekends ago when the weather turned very cold, I did a slow-braised beef served over polenta. I had a craving for polenta ever since I got back from Las Vegas-due to being served a side dish of cold, tasteless, polenta at an Italian restaurant. I use this basic recipe for all my braised beef dishes. Next time I'll share some prep photos. I start with basic chuck roast and dust it with flour and brown it in oil. Then I saute carrots, onions, celery and garlic. I'll sprinkle in some flour to thicken the braising sauce. Then deglaze with red wine and beef stock. Believe it or not, I've found that your basic Campbell's Condensed Beef Stock gives the best flavor and isn't too salty. I add chopped tomatoes and tomato paste, along with these spices-juniper berries, black peppercorns, bay leaf, allspice and orange peel. That combination gives the beef a subtle aromatic flavor. I put the beef and the vegetable mixture in a heavy casserole dish and braise it in the oven at 300 for about 6 hours. Then I'll strain out the vegetables and return the beef and strained sauce back to the casserole. I usually make the dish a day in advance and let the beef chill in the sauce overnight before reheating it about an hour before serving with the polenta. I usually make my polenta with chicken stock rather than plain water because it gives a bit of a flavor boost. Usually I'll add a small amount of cheese to the polenta, but this time I just served it plain since the beef sauce adds so much flavor to the polenta on the plate. And it sure was nice having a hot dish of polenta!

I don't think there was any special celebration on the 2 year anniversary of Guy Savoy at Caesar's Palace. At least not like the one-year anniversary party/dinner I went to in May of 2007. Chef Savoy does come to Las Vegas but I'm not sure of his schedule. I did exchange greetings with Frank Savoy when I was in Las Vegas in October and the restaurant is doing well. He's especially proud of the "Bubbles and Bites" menu that they introduced this year in the small bar area at the front of the restaurant. Customers can taste some of the restaurants signature dishes with a glass of champagne without having to take the time to enjoy the full, formal experience of dining in the main restaurant. Savoy is quite worthy of the two star rating from Michelin.

Unfortunately, following on the news that he had closed Fish Camp, Chef Osteen has closed Louis's Las Vegas, (as first reported at ELV.com). The restaurant became the victim of the horrible economy-but a few other factors sealed its fate. Louis's was located at the Town Square shopping center on the South end of the strip. The shopping center is still opening up, slowly, so the newness of the place didn't get word out to the strip for the tourists to come on down and shop and dine there. With so many wonderful restaurants in the hotels on the Strip, I think visitors tended to dine closer to home instead of driving or taking a taxi down to Louis's. A restaurant not associated with one of the big hotels has a rough go of it in Las Vegas and the business from the locals is vital. Unfortunately, I don't think Louis's or Fish Camp ever got the numbers of local/repeat business necessary to see them through rough times. Prices are down at many of the nice restaurants in Las Vegas right now, so I don't think you'll have problems finding something good in your price range-especially if you have a $50 credit to use each day at The Venetian. Just go on the web or tour the hotels when you get in town and you'll see posted menus and prices outside the restaurants. The grill/cafe at Valentino is good, and Boulud at the Wynn has a pre-theater menu that offers choices of three courses for a reasonable price. And another tip on cabs, the prices have come down recently. While cabs are still of course the most expensive means of transportation, they're the quickest and most convenient. In May I was paying an average of $20 for a one-way fare, including tip, from the airport to Treasure Island on the Strip. In October, I paid $12 for the ride including tip. So like the economy in general, cab rides and restaurant prices in Las Vegas have come down. That exludes the prices at the high-end restaurants like Guy Savoy, Robuchon, Restaurant Charlie and Alex-which continue to be terribly expensive.

The not-so-secret announcements of which Las Vegas restaurants garnered stars in the 2009 Michelin Guide were “formally” announced at a private reception at The Wynn on October 22. (The “informal” announcements of who won a star in Las Vegas were leaked to the press nearly two weeks before the event). I don’t particularly care who wins Michelin stars or why, (I happen to put more faith in my personal taste tests rather than solely relying on the opinions of Michelin in determining whether or not a restaurant is worthy). But I felt lucky and blessed to be invited nonetheless because it afforded me the opportunity to be among some of the top chefs of the day-(Chefs with and without stars). The party was held at The Wynn in a private, outdoor pool and garden setting. Surrounding the pool were food stations from the restaurants at The Wynn-each serving small bites of some of their signature dishes. Looking back from the pool garden to the entrance to the hotel- Michelin and Wynn set up a photo backdrop and red carpet so the “star-winning” Chefs could be interviewed and photographed as they entered the party. (Note that the backdrop has “Wynn” printed on it. Steve Wynn never overlooks an opportunity to catch some press). I found it quite amusing when a Chef who isn’t employed by Mr. Wynn at his palace came forward to accept his star, only to be photographed in front of a backdrop with the competition’s name splattered all over it. Pure Las Vegas one upmanship indeed. Some of the beautiful PR people who promote the restaurants of Las Vegas, (always with their notebooks and press kits in hand), waiting for the Chefs to arrive- The camera crew- From left to right, Jean-Luc Naret, (Director, Michelin Guides), Mr. Steve Wynn, (rich guy who owns the pool garden), and Chef Julian Serrano, (Chef at Picasso at Bellagio, a place Mr. Wynn used to own but sold for a few billion)- The “SW Steakhouse” station, headed by Chef David Walzog. The Kobe Strip Loin with “Bacon Ice Cream” was especially good- The menu at the Wing Lei station. (One of the few Chinese restaurants in America to garner a Michelin star)- Chef Richard Chen, Wing Lei, a Master when it comes to showcasing the flavor of duck- Mr. John Curtas, KLAS, KNPR, ELV.com and bon vivant-about-town, standing next to the talented young Chef Anthony Amoroso, awarded one-star for his delicious work at “Michael Mina” at Bellagio- Daniel Boulud, (we’ve lost track of how many stars he’s won), plating some of his impressive charcuterie. Boulud and crew displayed a table of charcuterie the likes of which had never been seen or tasted in Las Vegas. I’m quite sure all local pigs in Clark County-and their feet, tails, ears and innards-had been bought by Chef Boulud. Naturally, the Chefs in attendance all congregated at Boulud’s porcine celebration-

Thanks-an important clarification. We have delicious peaches in the Northwest, but the Frog Hollow peaches were the absolutely best I've ever tasted-juicy, sweet and with so much peach flavor. I don't know what a Chef pays for them, but I would gladly pay big bucks just to have one of these juicy beauties in my kitchen. They were amazing.

In August I had the pleasure of dining at RM Seafood, an often-overlooked restaurant hidden between the Mandalay Bay Hotel and the shops at Mandalay Place. Mandalay Bay is at the far Southern edge of the strip, directly across from McCarran Airport. By virtue of its location, the exceptional restaurants at Mandalay Bay-including RM Seafood and Aureole-don’t get as much notice as some of the restaurants found in the heart of the Strip further North at Bellagio, Caesar’s, The Venetian and The Wynn. A few years ago, Chef Rick Moonen made what in Las Vegas gambling parlance would be called a “killer bet.” He staked the reputation he had built as one of the finest Chef’s in New York City to move westward to Las Vegas to open RM Seafood. It’s proven to be a bet that’s paid huge dividends at the table. Chef Moonen is what some would call a “Celebrity Chef.” He’s appeared on television cooking programs and on Oprah. In fact, Oprah selected his new cookbook, “Fish Without a Doubt,” as the “premier pick for her new ‘Cookbook of the Month’ Club. Yet Chef Moonen differs from other “Celebrity Chefs” who put their names over the doors of restaurants in Las Vegas. We call them the “Missing Chefs” because they rarely are found in the kitchens of their namesake Las Vegas restaurants. Chef Moonen lives in Las Vegas and is in the kitchen every single night-a symbol of his commitment to the city and to the quality of his restaurant. Chef Moonen is one of the industry’s leading advocates of sustainable seafood. In his own words- “We believe in the importance of buying and serving seafood that comes from abundant wild populations which are under sound management.” “All the fish on our menu are caught or farmed in a way that is not harmful to the ocean environment and to other ocean creatures.” “We also support local fishing communities and take responsibility for our role in preserving a lasting and diverse supply of seafood.” The concept of sustainable seafood is not a novelty lost on Chef Moonen. It’s a philosophy that he and his staff live every day. It’s the right thing to do for the environment and to insure a stable supply of seafood for future generations. The movement to perpetuate sustainable seafood is not lost on the customer at RM Seafood. Taste Chef Moonen’s buttery, salty, seared dayboat scallops harvested by hand off the coast of Maine and you realize that scallops raised artificially and soaked in chemicals do not taste the way Mother Nature intended. RM Seafood is actually two restaurants-a casual café and oyster bar downstairs that serves fresh, simply grilled and fried seafood along with an extensive menu of micro-brews-and the formal “upstairs” dining room. The décor of the dining room is simple and sleek with walls, tables and service stations crafted of natural hardwoods and plenty of glass and chrome trimming-a space that some say reminds them of what a dining room on a gracious ocean liner of the 1930’s would have looked like. The service at RM Seafood is exceptional without being over-the-top, (a delicate balance between being overly fawning to the customer or being downright snooty and offish-the extremes of service that one encounters at some of the expensive dining rooms in Las Vegas). We told the Sommelier that we weren’t in the mood for different wines with each course-we preferred a wine that would see us through the evening. (That’s a tall order for a Sommelier-to select one wine that will accentuate a wide variety flavors in multiple dishes). He settled on serving us a "Nicolas Joly Chenin Blanc." I’m far from being called a knowledgeable wine connoisseur, but my research tells me that Mr. Joly is an advocate of “biodynamic viticulture”-recognizing that wine is made not in the barrels that rest in the cellar but in the soil in which the vines grow. Organics and even astrology play a part in the growing of the grapes. That’s the easy explanation. The result of this unique winemaking process delivered a bottle to our table that had the richness and depth to pair with delicate seafood, (Oyster), firm-fleshed, oily fish (Cobia), hefty beef (Short-Rib) and even dessert (Chocolate). Truly a versatile wine. Our challenge to the staff in terms of the food was to craft a unique tasting menu with nary a restriction other than to be creative and show us their “best” dishes with no advance notice. The kitchen delivered on our challenge by serving twelve fabulous courses. Now you’ll have to excuse me because I wasn’t able to capture the beauty of our dishes through quality photographs. I’m sure you understand-sometimes when we dine we tend to become rapt with the wine and the conversation-forsaking the quality of the visual record of our dining experience. We began with an amuse of a fresh “Penn Cove Oyster” harvested from the waters of Puget Sound that border Seattle. The oyster, no bigger than a thimble, had the scent of the ocean and was garnished with Osetra Caviar-a perfectly light taste of the sea to introduce the seafood courses that would follow. Another amuse, an appetizer course really, was next, “Tuna with Honeydew and Mint.” The tuna was presented as a timbale of raw cubes of fish topped with tiny balls of sweet melon and then garnished with a few shavings of green and red onion. The tuna was swimming on top of a light honeydew-mint water. Next came “Grilled Goat Cheese on Brioche Toast with Tomato Soup.” We agreed that as kids we all loved the grilled cheese sandwiches that Mom served with a steaming bowl of Campbell’s Tomato Soup. But Chef Moonen’s dish wasn’t Kraft American Cheese served between slices of Wonder Bread-and it certainly wasn’t a bowl of overly salted, concentrated tomato soup ala 1960. The tangy, gooey goat cheese melted between slices of thick, buttered brioche. The cover of ubiquitous foam on the top of the soup, (a technique that makes far too many appearances in Las Vegas restaurants), was merely a veil for the depth of tomato flavor that lay beneath the cloud of foam. “Spicy Hamachi with Grapefruit and Avocado with Yuzu” dressing followed the tomato and cheese sandwich. I was apprehensive that the strong flavors of pepper, (spicy), acid, (grapefruit and yuzu), and creamy texture (avocado), would overpower the delicate flavor of the Hamachi. But a deft hand in the kitchen doesn’t push the spice or acid too far, so the hint of grapefruit, yuzu, pepper and the soft texture of the avocado in the dish perfectly accented the Hamachi. The next dish was the stunner of the evening, “Dayboat Scallop with a Spicy Carrot Salad.” Simple menu descriptions often don’t reveal the depth and beauty of a dish. Dayboat scallops seemingly appear on all seafood menus today. But the key to the success of a dayboat scallop dish doesn’t simply come from the natural beauty of the product-it must also be cooked properly. Chef Moonen used a technique on the scallops that I’d never seen. He sears the scallops in butter and olive oil in a scorching cast iron skillet, basting them with the pan juices as they cook. Chef Moonen then slices the meat of the scallop like a thick sirloin beefsteak and fans the slices across the plate. Each delicious bite carries a taste of caramelized outer crust and medium-rare, buttery flesh. The next dish was my least favorite of the evening, “Cobia with Piquillo Pepper Chutney, Sake Lees Gazpacho, Steamed Bok Choy and Sticky Rice.” The Cobia came from waters off the coast of Ecuador. The flesh had a firm texture, but I found it overly oily and likened the taste to muddy catfish. The vegetable accompaniments were more flavorful than the fish. The Cobia was followed by a "Filet of Atlantic Halibut served with Foie Gras and Corn Flan” and garnished with a Corn Foam. Foie Gras, used as a luxury indulgence in most restaurants, has found a way to become as common as salmon or steak in Las Vegas. And how wonderful it was that Chef Moonen paired the silky texture and decadence of foie gras with the firm meat of the halibut and the sweetness of the corn. Our party thought that dinner was coming to the final act, but then the waiter came to the table holding a tray of steak knives. Good Lord. After so many wondrous courses of seafood we were moving on to beef-not just one, but two dishes of prime grade American! The first beef dish was a “Niman Ranch Strip, served with seared Foie Gras, Buttermilk Mashed Potato and Cabernet Reduction.” I don’t have a photo to share, but put away any thoughts of the dish composed of a slab of steak and a mound of mashed potatoes. As he did with the unique presentation of the Dayboat Scallop, Chef Moonen presented the steak and potatoes in a manner that surprises the diner with new tastes and textures. The steak was cut into thick slices and presented over seared foie gras. (Remember, we were in Las Vegas where decadence is normal). The buttermilk potatoes had been rolled into small nuggets and then deep-fried, revealing a crispy coating holding a creamy potato filling. The second beef dish was a “Smoked Short Rib, Marble Potatoes, Stuffed Zuchinni Blossom, Ruby Port Sauce and Taleggio Gratinee.” As with the previous dishes, the unique cooking techniques used elevated the flavors and success of the short rib. Chef Moonen starts with a bedrock size short rib on the bone. He smokes it, (over hickory is what I remember he told us), and then braises the short ribs for 8 hours. But the process doesn’t end there. The short rib is pulled off the bone, chilled, and then grilled just before presentation. The result is an incredibly tender, smoky piece of beef with a charred crust. You literally taste three cooking techniques with each delicious bite. Unfortunately, the Taleggio Gratinee was not a success. What was intended to be an upscale mac n’ cheese came to the table cold, the cheese congealed. Dishes intended to be served piping hot straight from the stove, the cheese gooey and melting, are a tricky business in the restaurant trade. The distance from the hot stove to the dining room is far greater than the few steps from my stove to the table-I can get the rice to the table hot-it’s harder for a restaurant to do the same. I’ve recently had Risotto, Polenta and this particular Taleggio Gratinee at three top restaurants in Las Vegas and each was a cold, sticky mess. The main elements of the dishes were still good, but murky side dishes can bring a great dish down a notch. At this point in the evening, dessert was still one course away. We apparently needed to enjoy more foie gras! The meat plates were removed and we were served “Hudson Valley Seared Foie Gras with Roasted Peaches.” The peaches were grown at Frog Hollow Farm in Brentwood, California. Forget the rumblings you might have heard from customers not being able to taste a ripe peach in a restaurant in Las Vegas. Dine on a Frog Hollow peach and the complaints fade away. In order for a peach to reach Las Vegas and still be somewhat firm, it’s picked weeks before it naturally ripens on the tree. The result is that the natural growth cycle of the peach is stunted at the point it’s picked and the sugars don’t have a chance to develop and concentrate the flavor of the fruit. Chef Moonen specifies that the peaches stay on the trees at Frog Hollow until they reach the peak of their sugar content and natural flavor-firm and juicy. Then they’re picked and shipped a few hundred miles South to RM Seafood. We were, as they say, in “heaven.” I can’t remember the sauce, nor do I remember the garnishes. I remember the peaches were simply sliced and carefully placed on top of sliced, seared foie gras. The first dessert was “Fresh Fruit with Blackberry Coulis.” We were served a bowl with a small mound of fresh berries in the center with little caps of crispy meringues dotting the rim of fruit. The waiter poured a chilled blackberry coulis, (a blackberry soup really), around the fruits and meringues. Each taste was a contrast of flavors and textures. The second dessert was a “Molten Chocolate Cake, Vanilla Ice Cream and Poached Bing Cherries.” A swirl of the cherry poaching liquid circled the cake and the ice cream was garnished with a tuille of nougat and shaved almonds. Overlooking RM Seafood would be a tragic mistake when you visit Las Vegas. The Michelin Guide committed an obvious oversight three weeks ago when they failed to award even one star to RM Seafood. It’s worthy of much more. But the lack of a Michelin star by no means places any doubt upon the quality of the food at RM Seafood or Chef Moonen’s standing among great American Chefs.

I was in Las Vegas two weeks ago and from what I gathered, the opening of Encore has tentatively been scheduled for the week of December 22. That's tentative. They recently plopped Steve Wynn on the top of Encore and a helicopter buzzed up there to do a promo spot for the opening. Mr. Wynn did a similar rooftop commercial before Wynn opened. Tableau at Wynn is currently undergoing major changes and is scheduled to be the new home of An American Place by Chef Larry Forgione. The opening is tentatively scheduled for late December. The former Chef at Tableau, Mark LoRusso, is moving over to Encore to open a steakhouse-"Botero Steak." Encore has announced these additional restaurants-"Theo's" (Italian) by Chef Theo Schoenegger, "Switch" (not sure what type of cuisine they'll 'switch' around) by Chef Mark Poidevan of Le Cirque at Bellagio and some sort of Asian/Fusion nightclubby type of place. Of course, this is all "tentative" in Las Vegas speak and one doesn't really know what will debut for sure until it happens.

I hear it is good, not great. The space was formerly the home of "Corsa Cucina." Managment apparently wasn't happy with the place, so they made the change to "Stratta." Basically they kept the Italian theme and asked Chef Stratta to lend his name and advice to the menu. I think he's actively involved, but certainly not in the kitchen every night. His primary focus is at Restaurant Alex. ← Understood.. But is seems like a decent choice for Italian. I am staying at The Mirage this time, but like spending some time over at The Wynn when I am in Las Vegas. ← I'm sure you won't be disappointed even if you're not wowed. Valentino at The Venetian is another fine choice for Italian. You'll have a great trip I'm sure. The coming months should be interesting in Las Vegas as the restaurants at Encore start opening in late December of '08 and some of the restaurants at MGM City Center start to open later in '09.

I was fortunate enough to be invited to the reception at The Wynn on October 22 when the Michelin stars for Las Vegas were announced. It's been interesting following the local blogs in Las Vegas that have been abuzz with talk about who got stars, who deserved a star, whose star was taken away........... I'll be posting some photos of the event later, but in the meantime, I'll make it easy for everyone so you don't have to navigate to another page for the star ratings: Three Stars- Joel Robuchon, MGM Two Stars- Alex, Wynn Guy Savoy, Caesar's Palace Picasso, Bellagio One Star- Alize, The Palms Andre's, Downtown Aureole, Mandalay Bay Bradley Ogden, Caesar's Palace Daniel Boulud Brasserie, Wynn DJT, Trump Tower L'Atelier, MGM Le Cirque, Bellagio Michael Mina, Bellagio Mix, Mandalay Bay Nobu, Hard Rock Hotel Restaurant Charlie, The Palazzo Wing Lei, Wynn

I hear it is good, not great. The space was formerly the home of "Corsa Cucina." Managment apparently wasn't happy with the place, so they made the change to "Stratta." Basically they kept the Italian theme and asked Chef Stratta to lend his name and advice to the menu. I think he's actively involved, but certainly not in the kitchen every night. His primary focus is at Restaurant Alex.

Delicious meals everyone. I've been in Las Vegas for a week of dining and celebrations related to the Michelin Guide Star Ratings for Las Vegas and the James Beard Foundation Taste America Events. Needless to say, a home cook like me was quite humbled. But I learned a lot and met some incredibly talented people. Back to home cooking now. Last night, Apple-Cider Braised Chicken with Turnips, Pearl Onions, Garlic and Mushrooms-

Our local paper, the Spokesman-Review (Spokane, WA), went through another round of layoffs about three weeks ago. Along with this latest round of layoffs was an announcement that the page size will be reduced to save printing costs, and some of the neighborhood sections will be either reduced in size or eliminated. They cut out the local restaurant reviews that appeared in the weekly entertainment section that ran on Fridays. In fact, last Friday they had cut out any of the past restaurant reviews and recommendations that have been a consistent feature of the entertainment section for many years. Mind you, we aren't what I'd call a restaurant city in terms of fine dining, but with a metro area nearing 300,000 and any number of good, medium-priced, family-owned restaurants, it's a sad day to think that the major paper in town doesn't apparently have any intention of reviewing, and in turn promoting, the local restaurants. We're left with a couple of free, community-arts based newspapers to report on our restaurants. Both the Editor and Assistant Editor of the Spokesman-Review resigned after the layoffs were announced rather than continue to work in a newsroom that they felt wasn't going to be supported by the publisher. The publisher says that the cuts were necessary to keep the paper viable (their words, not mine), and to be able to compete with the electronic forms of media today. A sad day indeed.

I appreciate your perspective, but I’m not in a position to give a credible answer as to the criteria that was used in selecting the restaurants for the Taste America events. Personally I think it’s an impressive list. I can tell you that many of the host restaurants are the home to James Beard Award-Winning chefs and a number of James Beard Award winners will be attending the events in Las Vegas. In my book, the fact that The Beard Foundation is coming to Las Vegas and that many Beard Award-Winners will be in attendance gives the events a huge amount of credibility. I am certainly aware of and sensitive to the state of the economy and how it’s had a negative effect on the hospitality industry in Las Vegas. I had dinner at one of the top seafood restaurants in Las Vegas in late August and it pained me to see the large dining room empty except for our table of three. In many ways, Las Vegas is a mirror that reflects both the good health and painful woes that afflict the country at large. It was very apparent to me on that night that the economic crisis facing America was hurting this restaurant. Now, more than ever, is precisely the right time to celebrate the dedication and creativity of the chefs and employees who work in the Las Vegas restaurant trade. (For that matter, we should all be supporting our local restaurants through these tough times). That’s the point of the Beard Events in Las Vegas. There has been a momentum building in the Las Vegas restaurant community over the past fifteen years that has brought the city to the forefront of great American dining destinations. I happen to believe that it’s vital that this momentum not die as the economy slows. The Saturday night Gala Dinner will feature the cuisine of 13 James Beard Award-Winning Chefs. That’s what we see on the surface of the printed program at the table. But if you take a deeper look, you’ll discover that the true mission of the Gala dinner, (and the Beard Foundation at large), is to promote Mr. Beard’s vision for the future of the culinary arts in America, (and in Las Vegas’s own backyard). All of the proceeds raised through the ticket sales and items sold at the Saturday auction will benefit the James Beard Foundation. A portion of those proceeds will be used to fund a scholarship for an outstanding student or students majoring in the Culinary Arts Program at the University of Nevada Las Vegas-William F. Harrah College of Hotel Administration. What often appears to be merely “hype” on the surface of Las Vegas is often later discovered to be something with incredible depth. In this case, we're not only celebrating Beard Award-Winning Chefs, we're doing our part to fund the education of future Beard Award-Winners. I’ll be writing an in-depth photo report on the events.

Soy Sauce Chicken garnished with Green Onions and Fried Shallots-

Thanks, David. I even found a Las Vegas chef with "soul" and a conscience - Rick Moonen. I will be sure to visit his restaurant when next in the desert city. ← Funny you should mention that doc-as I read your report about Chef Moonen's demo, it immediately reminded me of our discussions last May regarding my search for the "soul" behind the cuisine in Las Vegas. Chef Moonen is one of the Chef's in residence in Las Vegas-what some would say is a rarity in that city. He has a "soul" and an ethic about seafood that is reflected in his cuisine and the service provided by his staff at RM Seafood. I had dinner at Chef Moonen's restaurant when I was in Las Vegas in August. We had a lenghty visit with Chef Moonen about his time in Las Vegas and adjusting to the differences between Las Vegas and the restaurant scene in New York. He's not only one of the country's top Chefs, but an incredibly gracious host and great conversationalist.

Wonderful report doc. Your words and pictures have given us a detailed look into the exciting innovations being introduced by the hands of these talented Chefs.

Iriee-I appreciate the fact that you mentioned "value-quality" because that is an important point when it comes to offering dining suggestions in Las Vegas. Far too often people associate "value" with meaning "cheap." It doesn't. "Value," as you suggest, can speak to quality. For example, the Discovery menu at L'Atelier (Joel Robuchon), at the MGM is quite a "value" when you considered the "quality" of the ingredients-foie gras, quail, caviar and baby lamb, et at. It's priced at around $165 for nine courses, quite a "bargain" when you consider a similar menu without the fuss next door at Joel Robuchon would be $300 plus. So I would suggest L'Atelier as the best value/quality French place if you don't mind sitting at the counter. The counter is actually a fun part of the experience at L'Atelier. Igott is right about Bouchon, not cheap, but for around $30 or so, you'll experience a quality breakfast amidst the gardens and patio of the Venezia tower at The Venetian. Avoid it for dinner-it's fallen into the tourist trap, not so great Brasserie type of place. I would second Igott on the recommendation of Boulud at The Wynn. The pre-theater dinner is three courses, albeit limited choices. The service and setting are quite nice. I'm not the expert on Italian, but you may try the cafe out front of Valentino at The Venetian. It's often overlooked, yet the quality of the food is superb-and far less expensive than the formal dining room at the back of the house. Try the Penne Pasta with Wild Boar Ragu if it's on the menu. For seafood, you may try RM Seafood at Mandalay Place. There is a nice cafe downstairs serving good quality grilled seafood at reasonable prices. The upstairs dining room is more expensive-and more creative. Three courses upstairs would run around $85 without wine or tip. Chef Moonen is always in the kitchen-an asset not always found at other "celebrity" chef restaurants in Las Vegas.

Thanks. I start with the thickest loin chops I can find, at least 3/4" thick or thicker. I season them with Paul Prudhomme's "Blackened Steak Magic" and then sear them in a hot cast iron skillet with just a thin film of olive oil in the pan. I usually sear them about 4-5 minutes per side to get a nice brown crust on the chops-then they go into a 450 oven for about 4 more minutes per side. (Leave them in the cast iron pan when you put the chops in the oven). The pan sauce was simply canned beef stock swirled in the hot skillet. Then a garnish of fresh thyme. Thanks again.

So many delicious meals from everyone. I suppose I could have cooked these dishes when it was over 100 in July, but somehow I think they tasted better the last week of September when the temperatures were in the upper 40's and it was wet and rainy outside. Shrimp and White Grits, (with my version of Emeril's homemade barbecue sauce), with Chard and Bacon- Pork Chop, Grits and Succotash- Church Supper Chicken Pie (Based on a recipe that appeared in Saveur in a piece about Church Suppers)- The chicken "pie" is actually more of a chicken and biscuits/dumpling type of dish rather than the standard chicken mixture encased in a savory pie crust. The process starts the day before when you dunk a whole stewing chicken in a huge pot of water and cook the darn bird down for hours. You're left with a delicious chicken stock that serves as the base for the "pie"-along with incredibly moist and tender chicken meat. The pie doesn't have a crust but rather, a topping made of biscuits that bake on top of the bubbling chicken stew. Delicious.