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The Blissful Glutton

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Posts posted by The Blissful Glutton

  1. Has anyone eaten here recently since M. Vrinat passed away? Is it still good?

    I will be in Paris for my honeymoon and would like to treat my fiance/future husband to a meal here as a surprise.

    I know there are many other fine dining options in Paris, but I have such fond memories of eating here with my family years ago.

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    Although I was born in Rio, I had never been back to South America since my family first immigrated here when I was 2 years old. So, I was ecstatic when my Dad told my sister and I they were going to Argentina for his birthday—skiing in Bariloche in Patagonia has always been a dream of his and he has been in full on "travel the world" mode since he retired last year. You know I was on it in a New York minute. We had plans to go to Rio beforehand but ran into trouble with getting me a visa since I gave up my Brazilian citizenship when I became a U.S. citizen. I was bummed but still excited at the prospect of seeing Argentina in the winter. We stopped in Buenos Aires, which I can only describe as Madrid minus the pretension. The people were so genial and the town so full of color despite its grayish winter pallor. When it came to food, I had four things on my mind: A sandwich de migas, some alfajores, lots of steak and Italian food. I definitely got my fill. I am honestly too lazy (and work-crazed) to reproduce the entire post here (there are some videos, photo descriptions and links to restaurants on my original blog post) but I did want to post some of my pictures and keep the thread going for others who are planning a trip here soon since this website has provided me with such great information in the past. Hope you enjoy!

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    Our first meal was at Piegari which can only described as the best family-style Italian meal I have had in ages outside of Italy. Every 29th of the month is "Gnocchi day" so we picked a great night to come and ordered the gnocchi of course!

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    Fresh pasta with amazing seafood

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    Spinach gnocchi

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    Strawberries with meringue and ice cream

    Lunch the next day was at La Biela, a place my parents used to frequent on their trips to Buenos Aires when they were living in Rio. A cute cafe on a nice street with plenty of options and they even have a guy that comes around to shine your shoes while you eat.

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    Eggs with ham and french fries

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    Steak sandwich

    I have no will power when it comes to baked goods and made a beeline at the first sign of these:

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    Alfajores!

    We met up with some friends of my parents for a steak dinner at La Cabaña Steakhouse with some of my parents' friends who had some funny stories about them and my folks at Carnaval. Scandalous! But I digress...on to the steak.

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    My prime ribeye

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    Puffy papas

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    The next day was a a stroll through Palermo and Old Palermo. Such a nifty neighborhood with great boutique shopping and cool homes. I snapped this of the city when we were walking to lunch. A nice man told me it was probably not the best neighborhood to have a camera out in. This was not the first time a local told me crime was bad and to hide my valuables. We went to for lunch to Grappa, an Italian restaurant located in a renovated industrial building. Good--not great--food but a pleasant lunch none the less.

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    Fresh spinach fettucine with meat sauce

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    Flan casero which our waitress said was good but nothing close to her grandmother's...LOL.

    In keeping with our Italian feeding frenzy we went to yet another Italian restaurant for dinner, Sottovoce. Very old school spot complete with Frank Sinatra tunes and some killer pastas.

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    Pappardelle with mushroom cream sauce

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    Pasta with Bolognese sauce

    The next day we woke up way to early to travel to Bariloche, a skiing town in Patagonia.

    But, first, the BEST PLANE FOOD EVER:

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    Sandwich de migas

    This was was waiting for us when we arrived. Gorgeous.

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    The view got even better the next day but that night was the culinary highlight of the trip. Meat, meat and more meat at El Boliche de Alberto. Imagine a little restaurant off a windy, snow covered street with huge crowds waiting for a simple menu of expertly prepared meat and a great bottle of Malbec. We ate here twice it was so good!

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    The man on the right is Alberto, himself

    Bad lighting and a flimsy point and shoot are a lethal combination but the food was so amazing. Simple and cooked well. You cannot beat that.

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    And one final view of the mountain so you can understand why my picture taking came to an abrupt halt as I settled in with a good book and the iPod. Beautiful.

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  3. This looks wonderful - I'm getting hungry just looking at these pictures. Can you please also give some addresses?

    Some of the places--like the meat boutique and pastry shop--were just places we happened upon.

    But, here are the spots I do have info on:

    Le Tobsil: # 2, Derb Abdellah ben Hessaien, R'mila Bab Ksour, Marrakech, Phone: 024/44-15-23

    Dar Moha (not pictured): 81, rue dar el Bacha, Marrakech, Phone: 024/38-64-00

    Al Fassia: # 5, bd. Zerktouni, Res. Tayeb premier, Marrakech, Phone: 024/43-40-60

    Afternoon tea at the Amanjena resort: http://www.amanjena.com/ (out of the way but a beautiful place for tea or dinner). You can find plenty of upscale tea places in the new city though.

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    The Moroccan people are quite possibly the most hospitable and accommodating people I have met on any of my trips and the food, oh the food.

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    After arriving early in the morning, we visited a Hammam to have treatments—a recommended activity as it really helped me loosen up after the long flight. When I say this was the best spa experience ever (and, I consider myself a bit of a junkie), believe me. After sipping on some strong fresh peppermint tea (the first of many glasses), my sister and I were led into a steamy blue tiled room with fountains overflowing with pink rose petals. After relaxing on some towels for a few minutes, two women entered and washed us with black soap (Savon noir) before scrubbing the heck out of us with these little mitts. After the scrub we were covered in a special mud and left to dry. The treatment finished with a good wash in some Argan oil-laced hot water and a relaxing massage with rose oil. It was absolute heaven and we came out with glowing skin smelling like rose petals.

    After the Hammam, we jumped in taxi to go check out a spot in the Medina recommended a local. He referred to it as a “meat boutique” and informed me there are many of these around Morocco. Any mention of lamb and grilling to my father and we are there. The way it works is you choose your meat and then they go grill it over charcoal. There is a small glass case filled with freshly butchered cuts, but we just chose the mix of merguez sausage (my favorite sausage in the world), ground lamb patties and lamb chops. While the meat is being cooked, the waiter arrives with bowls of freshly ground cumin, crunchy salt, an assortment of local olives, some small tomato salads and loaves of slightly sweet bread.

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    When the main comes, you grab the meat with the bread—your utensil—although I saw many people using their fingers, which were subsequently covered in hot lamb fat. This is a meal that definitely brings the out your inner carnivore, because I abandoned the bread halfway through.

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    To ensure we did not fall into a meat coma, we headed to the Djemaa el Fna, a market around the corner. This market is know for being a foodie's paradise after dark and Bourdain hit it on his TV show, but we had other plans every night. Instead, we walked around the maze of vendor-lined alleys after buying a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice at one of the stands in the main square. The juices in Morocco are insane and we actually had a couple of orange trees outside our bedroom window.

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    Upon returning to the hotel with my tagine in hand (if you do go and want to buy one, make sure you don't get talked into one that is for decor only. Look for unadorned ones with a heavy feel), we plopped down on the couches in the bar for some afternoon tea and sweets.

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    That night we went for a diffa, or a multi-course feast, at Le Tobsil. After arriving to the area where the restaurant is located, a representative greets you and leads your party down a long abandoned alley. My family and I nervously smiled at each other, but I know they were all thinking, "what the hell has Jennifer gotten us into this time?" All of sudden, we reached a large wooden door and it creaked opened. A smiling woman peered out and greeted us as she opened the door to a gorgeous old house decorated in warm yellows and reds.

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    A pair of musicians played in the corner and rose petals were strewn everywhere. I had done good. You don't place an order at this type of restaurant, so we just sat down a sipped on our fresh fruit juice spiked with a little vodka.

    After a bit, our waiter brought us a large assortment of salads and bread.

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    The next day was our day with a guide when we went to see the city's many sites. On our way to one of the locations, I spied an open door to the fires beneath a Hammam. Locals bring their tagines to such places and leave them to cook all day before picking them up. See the cluster of them in the corner? The smell of cooking meat and fire was unreal.

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    For lunch, we headed to Al Fassia, a place I'd found in my guide book (Time Out puts out such great travel books). The restaurant is run by sisters and an all woman staff. They source their ingredients from small producers rather than large distributors and the flavor was definitely there. Such a quaint little place and excellent service.

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    On our way home from seeing all the sites (which you can view HERE) , we saw this little patisserie and had to stop inside and grab a few treats for later.

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    We had a great trip and it was nice to finally see Morocco after wanting to all these years. Just beautiful, but four days was more than enough because it is an intense place (even for me). We hit La Rioja next. Stay tuned for that post.

  5. A few questions, mostly for the hostess, BG.

    What is DF?

    Not BG, but I can answer this one. Mexico City = Ciudad de Mexico, D.F.. The abbreviation D.F. stands for distrito federal (federal district) according to Wikepedia (click). Like Washington, D.C., Mexico City is a city as well as a federal district.

    Can someone hook me up with a good carnitas recipe?  Bayless' is ok, but not like I have had and adored at some restaurants.

    Perhaps you will find a carnitas recipe that you like in the eight-page thread titled "Carnitas" (click). :smile:

    I am also hoping that Blissful Glutton gets time to visit.

    Ack. I have not been here in so long. Sorry guys! But, Bruce nailed it about DF. I will make it a point to check here more often. Everyone is making some amazing looking food!

    And in case you were still curious re: Chicago, I actually just reviewed it for a local paper I write for. You can view the review (with details and photos) HERE and my blog post with more photos HERE.

    ~Jennifer

  6. One of my most requested recipes is my green salsa recipe which is obscenely easy to knock out and way better (in my opinion) than buying the premade stuff. I serve this with a variety of dishes and it can be tweaked many ways. This is the basic version--a raw green salsa that goes well with fattier types of dishes like the beer-braised short-rib tacos I made this particular night.

    Ingredients:

    A handful of tomatillos

    1/4 cup of packed fresh cilantro

    Serrano peppers

    One clove of garlic

    The juice from 1/2 of a fresh lime

    Salt

    One avocado (optional)

    Instructions:

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    Take the husk off the tomatillos, rinse well, and quarter.

    Give them a liberal pinch of salt and let them sit on the cutting board for about 10 minutes. You can also roast these under a broiler at this point or blanch them in salted boiling water if you don't like the bitter(ish) flavor of raw green tomatoes.

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    Clean your cilantro very well. I normally soak it in very cold water and then dry in my trusty salad spinner. When the leaves are dry, pluck them from the stems. Make sure you taste the cilantro because it can be bitter sometimes and you want to adjust your amount accordingly so it does not overpower the salsa.

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    Using rubber gloves, de-seed and roughly chop 2-3 serrano chiles. You can use jalapenos, but I prefer the heat of the serrano. You can also roast these if you have more time and/or prefer a deeper flavor.

    Put all the ingredients (except the avocado) in a blender and pulse until it is uniform in texture. Place in the fridge for an hour so the flavors can marry. Salsa has the tendency to change and certain flavors can really intensify. After an hour, take the salsa out and adjust the seasoning to your taste with more lime or salt.

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    At this point, you can blend in an avocado for a creamier texture. If you choose to do this, make sure you adjust the seasoning accordingly and preform this step at the absolute last moment before serving since it the avocado will eventually start to oxidize. Enjoy!

  7. Someone was smiling down on me when I scored a coveted lunch reservation at The French Laundry for lunch today--my friend's birthday. It was just an overall wonderful experience. The service was perfection and the food was fresh and seasonal--exactly what you would expect from chef Keller. There is really nothing more to say than that. To pick apart each dish would be a crime. It was worth the visit and you should go if you ever have the opportunity. Kudos and big thanks to chef Keller and his team for creating a meal worth remembering.

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    The minute I saw this sign, my heart started racing like I was going on a blind date.

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    The French Laundry building.

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    The courtyard outside the restaurant.

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    The door to the restaurant.

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    Napkin and branded clothespin.

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    Our menu which they personalized, at my request, for my friend's birthday.

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    Salmon tartare coronets filled with creme fraiche.

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    Gougères to help start the meal off right.

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    Cauliflower "panna cotta" with Island Creek oyster glaze and Sterling White Sturgeon caviar.

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    Assortment of salted and unsalted butters (at perfect temperature, I might add).

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    One of the many gorgeous breads from Bouchon Bakery.

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    Salad of golden chanterelle mushrooms, first of the season fava beans, hearts of romaine and red pepper essence.

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    "Tartare" of Kindai bluefin tuna with Tokyo turnips, English peas, Jacobsen's Farm radishes and garden mint "aigre-doux."

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    Sweet butter-poached Maine lobster tail with cara cara orange, glazed sunchokes, nicoise olive emulsion and squid ink.

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    All-day braised Kurobuta pork belly, Yukon gold potato "confite," frisee lettuce and preserved green tomato vinaigrette.

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    Elysian Fields Farm lamb ribeye "et son plat de cote," melted swiss chard, green garlic and glazed fennel bulb.

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    Mrs. Quicke's cheddar with "Branston pickle" and cilantro shoots.

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    Diane St. Claire's Buttermilk Sherbet with spiced streusel and honey-glazed cranberry.

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    Valrhona Chocolate "Dobos" with chestnut butter, candied chestnuts and brown bread ice cream.

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    Granny smith apple "bavarois" with cinnamon "sable," dijon mustard ice cream and crystallized Napa Valley mustard blossoms.

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    Tahitian vanilla creme brulee.

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    Meyer lemon pot de creme.

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    Mignardises

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    Mignardises

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    The bill, cookies and branded clothespin to take home.

    Full post with larger photos HERE

  8. Looks good, Bruce!

    And, Lucy, when it comes to a press, the heavier the better. I use a cast iron one at home after much trial and error with other models.

    I am sorry I have let so much time pass since my last entry, but the Glutton has been on a diet and quite busy.

    Looking forward to seeing more people's efforts though!

  9. My Mexican-born parents just moved to Miami from Atlanta where we have plenty of quality Mexican restaurants. Since they have moved, finding good Mexican food in Miami has been a huge problem.

    I am visiting so I took them to this place based on your article. My parents were very excited at the prospect of eating some menudo and tacos.

    I have to say we were all pretty disappointed. My mother had the menudo which she found to be quite bland even with the addition of of salt, spices, etc. My pozole had a tablespoon of hominy and it should be full of hominy traditionally. The broth had no depth or salt as it should.

    Tortillas were from a package and meh.

    Gorditas were solid as they were made from maseca and not store-bought.

    Meats, like the asada and lengua, were just okay.

    The one saving grace of this place is that they have pastor on the spit which is a treasure whenever you find it. The meat was very flavorful and lean. I just wish they had some better tortillas.

    If you do go, get the gorditas and pastor.

    Not a bad find, but definitely not the stellar Mexican food this Mexican family was hoping for.

    Keep up your search and please keep us posted.

  10. I am a big fan of the loaves of buttery white bread that you can get at Korean and Japanese bakeries.

    I find that a thick slice is perfect for poached eggs and so much more. I think it is called "toast bread" or "milk bread."

    If you have a Super H Mart in your area, you should be able to get it there.

  11. I've been running into this issue too. I just re-entered the meat market after a 5 year relationship with someone who would eat absolutely anything.

    I have met some nice guys, but the food issue has been tough. I went out with a really sweet guy who did not know what skate wing was. All of my foodie friends told me to drop him like a hot potato--lol.

    Considering the fact that food is such big part of my life, I would like to have a partner who shared the same passion for food. But, I am not sure I would pass on a gentleman just because he did not eat offal. Being a vegetarian is grounds for immediate dismissal though.

  12. My Grandmother is turning 80 years old and we have rented a house in the Dominican Republic for the celebration. 12 of my female relatives are coming from Mexico City to celebrate and I need some help with menu planning. The house comes with a cook who will make anything we want, but I know nothing about D.R. food. Can anyone give me some ideas of what to ask them to make for us?

    Thanks in advance!

    Jennifer

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