fedelst
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Posts posted by fedelst
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Earlier this year the Chinese grocery on the NW corner of St Laurent and de la Gauchetiere burned to the ground. The loss of another Chinese grocery is not as sad as the loss of the Vietnamese sandwich counter in the back. If anyone remembers this place or was a regular client, I am sure that you can attest to the fact that she made the best of the best. Truly, where else can you get as good a sandwich, and at $2.25, it can't be beat for value.
Since the loss of the building, I have been searching for a reincarnation of this counter. Yet, neither the sandwich lady or her husband have reappeared...from what I have found. Yes, there are many other places, but have you tried them???
Blech.... most are plain disgusting, or will have you running for the john. If anyone has found a reincarnation of this counter, or has a good reliable and tasty place they can suggest, I need to get my fix....
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Le Club Chasse et Peche is great. La Chronique is also an experience.
Lesley.... You had stated last week that Cocagne should not be overlooked, and what about Bazaar Anise as a recommendation?
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If you want to maintain that pink color to your cured meat, you need the Nitrates. If you are comfortable with it, and remember your basic chemistry, you can create your own cure with Potassium Nitrate from a Pharmacy, salt, etc. I have used this as a cure for pork shoulder along with sugar, and a mixture of spices, cured the shoulder in a cold room for a few weeks. washed it, smoked it, let it rest in the cold room, and voila...
You do invest a lot of time, but it is worth it.
BTW if you go to china town, or any good Asian grocery or kitchenware supplier, you will find that the Duck hooks work quite well for hanging curing meat.
Also if you are looking for natural casings, make sure that what you are getting is truly fresh. Typically a butcher that produces their own sausages for in house sale will have stock. I have found that Tranzo on the SW corner of Monkland (or is it Sommerled, I mix up the 2) and Cavendish always has excellent 1-1/4 diameter natural casings. Tony at Westmount Butcher has fresh Merguez sized casings... and some very good veal.
Forget the pink salt! No need, just use regular sea salt and make sure the meat hangs in a good place. Some ventilation is important, but you don't want a direct breeze like a fan. And I think generally you don't want things like sausages to be touching each other or else that's where the mold starts.I guess that depends on what you're making! It certainly isn't needed for its preservative effect in this day and age, but it does contribute its own distinctive flavour.
Doesn't one of the pork/charcuterie suppliers mentioned in the Au Pied de Cochon cookbook have a stall at the Jean-Talon Market? (I'm thinking they're right next to the fishmonger in the new building.) They might be able to help you out. Alternatively, you could do what I did and order it from Stuffers.com. They have the benefit of being in Canada, so you don't have to deal with the border crossing.
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fedelst - how anonymous do you think a critic can be in Montreal?
I don't work in the trade and I know what Lesley and Beauchemin look like (ditto Tastet, but he's no longer writing for Voir). I even knew how to spot Helen Rochester in a crowd even though she apparently went through some lengths to conceal her identity.
A party of 3 or 4 that orders almost everything on the menu, swaps plates throughout the meal and pays in cash. Unless your FOH are walking brainstems or amateurs press-ganged into service, the orders and the plate swapping are pretty good giveaways.
I also don't think that the sucking up actually happens as often as you might think. I wouldn't want to be the restauranteur who visibly lavishes attention on one table to the detriment of everyone else who came in. That kind of negative reaction gets around pretty fast.
How, anonymous??? Good point, of course there is a big difference between making an attempt at being anonymous, and having an established social relationship with the management or staff of the restaurant. There is also a question of the motivation between the Gazette engaging a freelance vs. a staffed/salaried reviewer. It makes sense that the staff journalist has no interest in being known, or developing a presence as their value their employer is their ability to provide an unbiased review based on what the average Joe or Jane might experience. Whereas, as a freelance, anonymity may aid providing an unbiased review, yet, works counter to developing other writing/career opportunities. Perhaps Ms. C might have assumed a more discreet approach had she been a salaried journalist.
There may be many ways to conceal ones role as a critic. Yet, circumspect, and composure reign in developing a modicum of anonymity. Same goes for a restaurant looking to assure that a known critic is served a perfect meal. I was not suggesting that an establishment under review would be laying on excessive or lavish attention by the wait staff. Rather, that there may be extra care that is taken in the kitchen, and a more attentive eye on the table. Certainly, any overly attentive service or exceptional presentation would go noticed by the other patrons...
You also forgot a key point... Dining on a Wednesday... as it is commonly known by most all restaurants that Ms. C usually conducts 'her research' on Wednesdays.
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Not to mention that, although some people defend the utility of having everyone tacitly agree to pretend the critic is anonymous, most everyone agrees that it's virtually impossible to both remain anonymous and attain sufficient dining experience/maintain enough dining experiences in a given locale to have anything worthwhile to say as a critic. The idea that real, actual anonymity is "crucial" to a food critic's work seems laughable. Certainly, around NYC some of the food critics who have done the very best have turned out to be the least anonymous (e.g., David Rosengarten).
Are you referring to Jeffrey Steingarten - Vogue, or in fact that overly self indulgent David Rosengarten?
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You know what's great? It's great when I go to a restaurant, nobody knows who I am, I have a great meal and the restaurant gets a good review. Happened to me at O Chalet back when Alexandre Gosselin was the chef.
You know what's not so great? When I go to a restaurant, they know full well who I am, and there are huge problems with the food and service. Happened to me at Au Pied de Cochon.
Go figure.
Considering the role of a critic, it would be expected that your anonymity is critical to the restaurant offering you an experience typical of any patron. Otherwise, the experience you are writing about may as well be titled 'How Good a Restaurant Can Really Be When They Want To Suck Up to You"... or something of this nature.
Which leads me to ask...... How can you expect unbiased service, when most restaurants know or can identify you? And, considering that so many restaurants know you, how can you expect to have a typical experience in any restaurant? Face it, with such visibility, you never know when the meal you had just been served was expertly staged with an exceptional attention to detail, or if that perfectly plated dish were the norm.
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Does Bofinger have a smoker?
Certainly, Otherwise, they really could not call themselves a smoke house n'est pas?
If you get a chance to speak with Steph, one of the owners, he can tell you about the trials and tribulations of selecting the right smoker and manufacturer.
BTW as a side, the beans are worth a try, as is the Potato salad. I side with the pork ribs over the beef, and the brisket is juicy and properly smoked. Not over smoked, as most places do.
I have had too many less than enjoyable experiences at Mesquite to want to venture back. This is too bad, because I know the owner is capable in the kitchen. Yet, it seems when he is not there he trusts his kitchen to hacks. Try a dry over smoked chicken that was dropped in a deep fryer to reheat. or stiff stale buns on a pulled pork sandwich... What were they thinking as they sawed through the dry bun.. "oh, I am sure no one will notice this giant crouton"? ...NEXT.
Side note:
Remember, if you see billows of smoke coming out of a smoker, stay away, as the food is not being smoked, but embalmed with creosote... which the last time I checked was toxic. Proper smoking involves low and slow heat and almost a vapor of smoke.
I will never forget some road side joint in New Hampshire that has a tar coated shack that was just billowing smoke, and seeing dark chunks of their 'famous' smoked cheddar by the cash... Probably a good substitute for patch users.
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Hmm...I wonder if he'd cough up the money if I sent him a picture of myself.
I mean, talk about an easy way of making a few bucks...
A bit late, I believe the bounty has been claimed.
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For what it's worth, QdC made Forbes list of ten most expensive restaurants in the world for 2007.
Correction... The list was published in 2007, but is titled "World's Most Expensive Restaurants 2006". However, this list features restaurants serving meals priced from $368 - $62 for a meal for one???? This makes no sense, as Without having the experience of Zagat, I could easily name 10 far more pricey seats around the world. The fact that each restaurant listed also includes a number for reservations, makes me suspect this is more marketing than factual content.
Come to think of it, I spent more at Gibson's in Chicago, and Charley Trotters in Vegas on a steak dinner than the Queue. For a steak house, the Queue's prices are in line with the industry. Considering that there is a market for what Mr. M is serving, I believe he successfully created a business to meet a market need. And, it is not geared towards everybody.
If you go to the Queue and complain about prices, perhaps you should not have gone to the Queue. As it seems we are quoting old adages perhaps 'if you have to ask the price, you probably can't afford it' might be fitting. If your perspective is that 'there is a sucker born every minute' then clearly, the whole concept of dining out must be considered as a challenge, as it must pain you to pay more for anything you could prepare for yourself at home at cost.
When dining out, you are paying for the experience, this includes everything from the decor and ambiance, to the food, to the feeling you have from the beginning through to the end of the meal. As an example, look at any of the feature restaurants in Vegas, and ask why people flock to these places, when so many other less expensive options exist? Yes, the food may be good, but it is clear from their investment in the restaurant that the ambiance and decor, as well as the location and the celebrity chef name score highly in contributing to the experience.
Many years ago at a presentation in the western part of the US, just before a break in the event, a list of benefactors was being announced to the audience listing some very generous sponsors. All were greeted with applause, until they reached Bill Gates, who was heartily booed by the audience. A bit surprised, I asked a number of folks at the event why they would boo Mr. Gates for sponsoring this event. I got a variety of replies, and ultimately and inadvertently formed a large group of folks standing around during the break pondering the reaction. In the end, we, to our own surprise, determined that perhaps the actual reason for the boo's was out of envy than disdain.
As with Mr. M and the Queue, love him or hate him, he and his team have built a successful presence in the Montreal restaurant scene. You may not wish to dine there, and it may not be your cup of tea, but respect it for what it is. It is a successful steak house that caters to a client base who appreciates the experience.
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Hey!!! Don't knock Schmutz !!!!!
Many restaurateurs have built empires on the SCHMUTZ factor...
Not that the concept of Kitchen schmutz is all that appealing, it definitely can be attributed to some unique flavors.
;~>
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Le Grand Comptoir is an inexpensive bistro in Phillips Square just off Ste Catherine. Not a destination restaurant by any means, just decent food for a reasonable price. It's always packed at lunch time. Go for dinner when it's much more calm.
Thanks, I marked it down to check it out. What about a good Market for Cheese, produce, meat, or a good wine shop in that area? What are some of the best food markets in the city?
Although I admit to rare cravings for a Mr. Steer burger, I would certainly swap out Mr. Steer for le Grand Comptoir's Andouillette.. A tripe sausage with a dijon sauce, and some very good pommes allumettes.
Coming from a guy who is not wild about tripe, they have to be pretty darn good for me to eat them, let alone recommend them.
As for junk food, La Banquis is a good recommendation, but I have an addiction to Dic Ann's High Boy with Cheese. This is an all dressed burger, with their special sauce, that is pressed to the thickness of a pencil. Originally advertised as thin enough to slide under a door, these super thin burgers can be filling. I can attest to this, as when I was much younger, I had attempted to eat a dozen high boys in a bet, and lost after 8. The cook claimed it was the lettuce. I claimed it was foolishness.
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I have frequently seen them in a variety of Asian markets. I have also found under the counter bolut in some markets in Philippine communities. Best bets would be any of the Kim Phat's, Marche Hawaii on Marcel Lauren, or Kim Po or some of the others on Victoria.
Next time I see them I will provide more precision.
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What's the point of this topic? To attack the critic? To attack anonymous food critics? Eating food is very subjective and trying to criticise somthing so subjective is difficult.
Are other critics always on the same page as you (movies, theatre, wine)? If you take umbrage with the fine dining section of the gazoo, a letter to the section editor would suffice. If I correctly recall, the current critic is a freelancer with a meagre stipend. You cannot hope to compare that with the NYT. Ever read the fine dining section of the NYP? Even that paper has a sizeable fine dining budget compared with the gazette.
Its laughable that one declares bias when their argument is based on a biased diatribe. If you're unhappy with the state of resto reviews in Montreal, don't hide behind an involved party then declare yourself neutral.
The only value one gets from criticism is when its constructive so one can build on it.
Believe me, constructive criticism has been tried by many. It seems that despite the effort, it is ineffective.
As for letters to the editor, this seems to be a black hole, and equally ineffective.
Been there and done that.
I am not unhappy with the restos in MTL, I am tired of the critics presentation of them. This is why I prefer reading the La Presse reviews. They are definitely a better example of journalistic criticism. It really boils my blood to read reviews that have statements that lack merit, are at times poorly researched, and are presented from a voice of authority, where the authority has not been proven or earned.
I am certain that there are many critics that have had to 'fake it until they make it' and have done so successfully by avoiding presenting opinions from the point of authority, until they have developed their reputation and credibility. And, I am certain that many readers were none the wiser for it, as the facts presented in the articles were properly researched, and statements maintained accuracy that even the most critical reader would find acceptable.
One could say, if you don't like the way the column is written, stop reading it. The fact is, I have stopped reading it for months at a time. Yet, why should this be the case when the critic could either change her evil ways, or step aside for someone who can do a better job. There is nothing more I would like to see than the present critic churn out work in line with the writing quality found in 'the Art of Eating' (which she has been published in). I believe she is a very capable journalist that could be a great critic.
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My son and friends are congregating in Montreal in a couple of weeks for his 25th birthday. Hints of a Queue de Cheval all out meat feast has been loudly dropped. Bankaccount has been padded and checked. We're set!
Guess what - NO DICE MR M. You are Off the list PERMANENTLY. BLACKLISTED.
Don't know the Critic, don't read The Gazette. Other than from this forum. ANd my copy of "Flavourville".. Enough for me. MR M. needs to seriously dissapear. IF he puts BOUNTY on a critics picture, threatening her job and the process - thats DISHONORABLE, don't need lenghty defenses of her, don't need a lot of erudiation.
Erase, delete move on. Blip!
And it's a high end, business STEAKHOUSE, pueleese... yawwn..... disappear be gone and there won't even be a flutter in MY Montreal resto scene.
ANd we'll go to Moishe's as usual.
By MR M. Burp...
Don't know the critic? Don't read the Gazette? Strange, your past posts to LC clearly indicate commentary on her articles. You even ask about how to access them on line and ask for a link due to your difficulty navigating the Gazette Site!!???! Actually, it seems you do know the critic and have had many interactions with her on a number of eGullet forums.
I don't know the last time the owner of a restaurant was a big concern to me. I go for the food, not the name on the title. It is clear that your posting was submitted to attempt to cause Mr. Morentzos remorse about his opinion of the critic. Please reference his comments on opinions in the news letter. I seem to agree..... everyone has got one.
Just for the record. I have nothing to do with the Queue and certainly would not call myself a frequent or regular diner there. What I will say is that compared with other fine steakhouses it ranks up there in atmosphere, quality and service. Granted, it is an environment enjoyed by many, but it certainly is not everyones cup of tea. Perhaps Mr. M's opinion of the critic put you off, but this does not have any effect on the dining experience. In fact, I challenge you to name the owners of most of the restaurants you have dined in, or know their opinion of the local Anglo critic. Maybe they hold her in disdain, perhaps they are known to them and are her friends... Would this impact your dining experience?
The only thing Mr. Morentzos did was call it as he sees it, and make it known.
Clearly, exposing your son to the action of the Queue might be a bit much for him, I am sure that Moishes will be a more calm environment for his 25th. And I am certain that the Queue will not have his seat empty that night.
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I think many people give Lesley too much of a hard time. Credentials aside, a critic’s job is a difficult one. I know I couldn’t sleep at night having to give one or two or three or no stars to a restaurant that you know has a team of hard working people behind, especially knowing how many details make the restaurant experience an ephemeral one. There’s also the inherent struggle in rating restaurants of all kinds - you have to make it all fit when you’re reviewing high end places, bistros and everything in between. And then you have to deal with the backlash. It would be much more stress-free to be anonymous à la Ruth Reichl; it is much harder to be yourself, to be forced to be transparent, to answer for your calls in a small city.
You speak of her being biased. Any human being is. I don’t know her, but I feel that she does make an effort. The Toque review to me was a surprise. At the same time, she doesn’t pretend to be above it all, she lets her personality come through. She’s opinionated but human. So sometimes, you can tell she liked this or that because of who she is. You know who her favourites are, and what ticks her off. Then again, she admits to not knowing anything about barbeque instead of acting like she knows it all.
Even if I don’t always agree with her, I think she does a good job, showing a balance of professional experience and common diner experience. She isn’t that critic who is a journalist first, who could often learn much more about food, nor is she a stalwart food industry person who is out of touch with the average person – she is somewhere in between, and closer to the consumer. She’s not perfect, but my bet is that she serves the the average diner well with her reviews. Although I do love/ hate the stars.
True, it is a tough job, but you can't be a critic, if you don't have a deep understanding of the operation of a restaurant. Likewise, you need cojones. There are times you will have to make a decision over whether you should publish a bad review, despite having given the joint a fair try, or if you hold off because you 'know' that the talent is capable, and deserves one more try. Then again, there are well respected restaurants that hold their success due to image, and couldn't prepare a truly decent meal to save their life, and truly deserve that one star (or less).
True, she does takes a position where she does not try to be 'above it all' and admits her limitations, but if we are looking to these columns for news, guidance and commentary, would you not want the the journalist writing the article to have at least made the attempt to research the topic that they are writing about. I would presume that if someone were to take on the project of writing a commentary on making pulled pork, maybe I would invest the hour and head over to either Mesquite, ot BowFinger to chat with the owners about 'the spirit behind southern Bar-B-Que'. Don't you feel that taking this type of effort holds much more value than the 'it says in my weber cook book that ...', and 'I followed the recipe and, as sure as night turns to day, I had made yummy food'.... Well.. most of us can crack a cook book, and I will bet you 17 out of 20 times, that recipe might just happen to work. We do not need a journalist to point this out.
As for her professional vs. the common diner experience, my concern is more her professionalism, and her ability to write an unbiased review. It is clear that she relies on a support group who aided her in getting to where she is today, and the price she paid for this guidance is by making no secret of her favoritism of those who have aided her ‘in the field’ education.
It is true that there is no degree program on restaurant review, and understand that until you got your chops, you will have to ‘fake it, until you can make it’, but at some point you have to take the training wheels off, and show that you can ride by yourself. Well, the training wheels should have been taken off some time ago, and if she still needs the comfort of some back up, she should do so without blatant favoritism. She owes it to her credibility and her audience. Short of this objectivity, she will never define herself as an unbiased critic, with the ability to effectively write a valued critique.
I am not sure that she can undo what she has already done, but my issue is that we need responsible journalism that does the Fine Dining column justice, and makes it plausible and worthy of reading. Unlike, the way the column is presently viewed by most who are trying to guess whether what is being reported hold merit.
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It's difficult for me to understand how anybody could question Lesley Chesterman's credentials as a restaurant critic. On the one hand, the notion of credentials/qualifications for the job of restaurant critic is silly. There is no degree program or agreed-upon set of qualifications. Restaurant critics are judged by what they write, not by education or professional background. On the other hand, if anybody does have the theoretical qualifications to evaluate restaurants, it's Lesley Chesterman. She attended the Institut de Tourisme et d'Hotellerie du Quebec, has worked as a professional pastry chef in Quebec and in France, and has written the books "Flavourville" and "Basic Techniques: Baking and Pastry." In addition, she has been reviewing restaurants for the Gazette for years now, and so has acquired quite an impressive range of on-the-job experience. She is better qualified as a culinary professional and critic than most any other newspaper restaurant critic that I can think of anywhere in the world.
I also know Lesley pretty well, from even before she spent several years volunteering as an eG Forums host, and have always found her to be highly informed, articulate, balanced and ethical.
In terms of flak from disgruntled restaurateurs, I think there's a difference between standard griping and challenges to a journalist's ethics. Yes, a critic of any kind needs to be psychologically equipped to deal with hostility. But when a journalist's ethics are questioned, a defense is required. And no, a journalist shouldn't just let ethical challenges slide. People who make such accusations without basis are doing more than just complaining.
Your perspective is appreciated. I am well aware of Ms. Chestermans credentials, and I don't question the fact that she is an accomplished author. Clearly Mr. Morentzos, has his own concerns about her abilities, and has publicly expressed these. I on the other hand come from the side of the table defined as the dining public.
I have eaten my share of restaurant meals in many fine dining establishments, and am a fairly experienced cook. My issues are on Ms. Chesterman’s repeated reviews of the same establishments and inaccurate statements. Seriously, I assure you that you cannot state with a clear conscience that you agree with all her reviews and comments. Do you really believe that Guy et Dodo is worthy of the review it received?
Does it really matter that Toque has a staff member trained by Ferran Adria? Is there much value in reading an article on Bar-B-Qing by someone quoting from a Webber bar-b-q guide who self admittedly states she knows nothing about bar-b-q?
I would like to read a well researched article by someone who knows the food they are eating. I appreciate that we are not all born with a palate, and that there are times a reviewer will be faced with the unknown. This is what research is all about. Ms Chesterman could be a great reviewer if she were to dine in the restaurant more than once (as I get the perception that she does not), Make sure that she researches the unknown before writing about it (ex. kalamansi is not a tropical fruit, it is a citrus from the Philippines), and that she possesses a passion for the topic and city she is writing about.
Instead, I am faced with articles that make me cringe.
I am not saying that there are not restaurants that deserve to be panned; I am stating that there are a lot of folks that don’t have faith in her reviews. She lets a lot of favouritism come through, and it is just too evident for anyone to take her reviews as unbiased.
As for the Queue, this is a battle she will have to deal with on her own. Does the Queue deserve 2 stars, this is her opinion. Yet, I believe that many may argue this. Perhaps Ms. Chesterman is not a big steak fan, or maybe she prefers a different type of beef, if so, I think she might actually be surprised by some of the other items on their menu. I for one was surprised one lunch when I was served an absolutely perfect piece of Halibut wrapped in vine leaves with an Avogolemeno reduction. As a critic, it is expected that she will have the ability to base her opinion across a broad range of criteria. This opinion is not only an evaluation of the kitchen, but the decor, ambience, and overall impression of the dining experience. It should also be an experience that the establishment is blind to.
We get the feeling that she is coddling those that know her well, and recognize her when she dines in their establishments. How, does this afford the dining public an unbiased review? Perhaps she might learn a few chops from Ruth Reichl and her experience when she signed on with the NY Times. Actually, she may need to adopt this technique soon if anyone claims Mr. Morentzos bounty.
See http://staff.queuedecheval.com/files/QdC_S..._finalred_2.pdf
Again, I appreciate your defending her position. I am sure she is a very nice person, and I don’t doubt the fact that she could be a great critic.
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In the summer edition of the Queue de Cheval’s High Steaks news letter, Mr. Morentzos reiterates his offer of a bounty for the photo of the ‘Anglophone press restaurant critic’, citing his disdain for her poor journalism, and limited experience as food critic. He further takes it upon himself to list an open position for a qualified fine dining critic, with a love of the city and knowledge of the restaurant business to fill the present critic’s shoes. Clearly someone has a serious ax to grind.
At first thought, it seems that his position may be a vendetta for what can be considered a less stellar review. However, having read the whole article, it is clear that there is a deeper motive behind Mr. Morentzos’s offer? Anyone who has seen Mr. Morentzos in action will attest to his hands on management, and his unquestionable passion for his business. Clearly, he is not bashful about saying what a lot of restaurateurs and the public have been thinking that ‘The emperor is not wearing any clothes’ ... or rather, Ms. Chesterman, is a babe in the woods when it comes to reviewing restaurants.
It appears that Mr. Morentzos has taken action on behalf of the restaurant industry and the dining public, and is drawing a line in the sand and stating, ‘enough is enough’. We have all had more than our share of her reviews of Toque, and glowing comments about Le Bifteque. Her poorly researched articles are an embarrassment, and do little more than shame those that associate with her.
I for one have openly and privately questioned the accuracy of many published reviews, and have been on the receiving end of a call from Ms. Chesterman, questoning the merits of my comments or opinions on her statements. Clearly the critic does not bode well to criticism. In this case, The Queue has made a very public venue of their beef, and is getting a much larger audience than the average cocktail hour conversation questioning ‘what was she thinking’.
It is my understanding, this recent questioning of her abilities has upset her... .Wow, if I was a in her shoes, I would expect that taking flack from displeased restaurateurs would be considered part of the job. After all, it comes with the territory, that you will make enemies when you pan a restaurant. I wonder how she would have fared had she been in the situation her former male counterpart found himself in, when he was physically ejected from an establishment that did not desire his published comments?
Perhaps, there is more than merit to Mr. Morentzos action, after all, would I trust someone who is under qualified , to review my restaurant?
As one of the dining public, I applaud the Queue for taking this one to the mat. It is high time that the Anglophone press establishes standards in their fine dining column. Perhaps if the position were in fact to be open, this time it should be filled by someone who actually qualified to review fine dining establishments, is willing to make more than one visit before drafting their submission, has a thick skin, is willing to call a spade a spade, and is NOT well known to their chouchou restaurateurs.
Once there are standards established for the fine dining column, perhaps we might start taking the fine dining section seriously. I applaud Mr. Morentzos for his action, and look forward to the day we can all rely on the reviews published in the Fine Dining column.
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My first choice is my own effort. Considering, I am obsessive about having sharp knives in my kitchen, learning to sharpen a knife properly is imperative for most.
However, on the path to learning to sharpen my own knives I have learned a few very costly lessons.
1/ Never let the guy in the truck that goes up and down the street sharpen anything other than your lawn mower blade, your axe, or anything you can' afford to replace. I spent 2 nights correcting damage to a very expensive Japanese knife... doh..
2/ When in doubt go where the pro's go.. I have used Bertoldi and had great service.
3/ If you own ceramic blades, get yourself a silicone carbide sharpener. You can not put an edge on these suckers without the right technology.
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I echo Bon Apetite Cookbooks, in the recommendation for Joe Beef, over Toque; and add that The Emperor is not wearing any clothes. i have no fear in sharing my opinion that Normand Laprise is a highly qualified chef, and question his efforts as a restaurateur. I feel he peaked at Citrus.
Yes, Toque gets a lot of glowing reviews, especially from his cheer leader in the local anglo press. But, it pales in comparison to other talent.
If I see that damned Tuna Tartare on Avocado ever again, I will know I am in hell. This was tired 10 years ago.
I would opt for Giovanni Apollo's Duo de foie gras de canard poêlé et flan poire rôtis (beurre cryogénisé) or Médaillon de homard confit en direct au champagne et vanille Papouasie any day over anything coming out of the kitchen at Toque.
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has anyone been to gaucho on parc near bernard? i don't even know if it is still there. i am looking to find a good veal milanesa like the good stuff i ate in uruguay.
that store on st laurent north of pins just south of the dollarama is good for mate and dulce de leche, get the conaprole brand, it's the best.
You are referring to ....Librarie Espagnole, they have awesome Chorico as well. Just the way I like them, Spicy, and towards the dry side.
Mmmmm...... I'm ready for second breakfast now...
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???
Haven't been there in years... Was better before they expanded it into the bigger place. Like Da Emma, a humble and reliable restaurant gone big time. Except, Le Latini not for the better; and da Emma moving to a totally different cost level.
I do have to give da Emma credit for their wine list, and her Lasagne, when you can get it, is what I would consider the best I have ever tasted. The braised lamb shanks are darn good as well.
Some of the pasta has a bit much oil for my liking.
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OK, I have to confess I was inspired by a thread on the Toronto board, so props to them.
There are tons of items I can reliably find in Montreal; others, not so much. For example, I can find dragonfruit and pomelos, but I can't find yuzu.
Likewise, I haven't been able to find curry leaves in Montreal since the Indian produce store on Parc Ave. closed.
So: where can I find yuzu and curry leaves? And is there anything you've been looking for and had difficulty finding?
I have not seen fresh Yuzu but you can get fresh pasteurized, and concentrate from La Depense in Jean Talon Market...
Marche Kim Po on Victoria south of Cote St Catherine has a collection of Kalamansi concentrate in powder and liquid form. No! it is not an exotic fruit, it is a Philippine Citrus similar to a sour orange
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Wow, what a story!
But I can assure you Mme. Morali offered us incredibly friendly service. I would never had said so if she hadn't.
Yet I have to say that most of the time I really do get excellent service when I go out to review. I think it's because I talk to the waiters and really try to be friendly.
I think Mme. Morali is just great, and as far as I know I don't think she recognized me. If so, so be it. But she's very nice. I can't say the food is fantastic, but there's something about that place that I just like.
As for Au Tournant de la Riviere, I reviewed the restaurant years ago and would never go back. My food was just OK and the waitress was odd and not very friendly at all. I actually hated the place. Like bad country contemporary. Yuck.
And yes, you're right. Montreal doesn't have a lot of new restos this year. But I also think it's important to keep the old places in the loop (and I last reviewed Guy and Dod six years ago, which is twice as long as my three year rule). I now have to alternate new places with old, so next week's will be new.
Well... sort of...
I believe Mme. Morali picks and chooses who she wants to develop into return clientele. Clearly a couple of thirty somethings was not her idea of the crowd she is looking to entertain. From the decor and the clientele, it is evident that she is looking for 'captains of industry', type crowd. Although it does at times look like it is more like the 'nice uncles with their niece' type place.
I believe your assessment of the service level at Guy et Dodo, I am convinced that it is turned on and off, depending on who you are. This may not be the best idea, as you never know who that couple you chose to drub really is.
As for Au Tournant, I have had a few good meals there a few years back, and admit I have not been there in a while. Yes, the decor is country kitsch, but the few dinners, and the one brunch that I had there were far better than passable, they were well executed, incorporated local fresh ingredients, and were worthy of consideration. As I have not been back for some time, I cannot say whether it is any better or worse than my past experiences.
I never said it was 4 Stars.
(BTW you have seen this story some time ago).
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Have you ever just all of a sudden had a craving for yucca con cebolla? Or Hallacas? Or perhaps an Arepa Reina Pepiada? Or Chivo Guisado? If so, you are either a home sick Latino/ Latina, or you are an omnivore looking for your next fix. I fall into the latter category.
In Montreal, to most outside the Latin American community, the thought of anything south of the US/Mexican border brings to mind Tacos, Nachos, and Enchiladas, or the thoughts mostly of what could be called gringo Mexican / TexMex. Unfortunately, despite their being a number of good Latin American spots, most cater to specific nationalities and outside these communities one would be hard pressed to find them… It could be chalked up to bad marketing, or the fact that they only want to target their own folk. Yet, many of these establishments seem to want to build clientele, but do not know how.
So, putting the Carlo’s and Pepe’s, and the three Amigos behind us, where might you recommend as authentic and good Latin and south American food?
Let me start the list:
Venezuelan - La Tasca St. Hubert and Villeray, 7671 RUE ST. HUBERT, www.latasca.com Authentic Venezuelan dishes, Excellent Pabillon, Arepas, and other traditional Venezuelan dishes. The owners of this new restaurant have truly hit the nail on the head in delivering reasonably priced and filling Venezuelan fare. Definitely worth the trip.
Mexican – Le Coin Mexique, Jean Talon near Iberville. When you see more Mexicans than gringos, you know they must be doing something right. From the exotic to the common, they have an excellent selection including some of the best Tortilla soup in the city (I Miss the Chicheron that they stopped putting in it), the fresh hot Sopes, and Chiles Rellenos.
Diverse - Andes Market – St. Laurent, south of Mount Royal. Quick Lunch counter with a good selection of a variety of latin American and South American dishes. Not fine cuisine, but it is the perfect lunch.
Chilean / El Salvadorian / Peruvian / Argentinian - Carniceria Mondial, just easof the the Jean Talon Market. This butcher shop and lunch counter serves up some tasty pupusas, Carnitas, empanadas, and other tasty quick bites. Just don't ask the butcher for a Punta Trasera. They have no clue... (Any suggestions on where I can find this cut of beef)?
I miss Mora’s on St. Zotique, that used to dish up some of the best food from the Dominican Republic, and am looking for another DR joint…. Any suggestions?
Any other recommendations?
Turducken
in Cooking
Posted · Edited by fedelst (log)
For the past few weeks my daughter has pleaded with me to not serve turkey this year. At first I thought this was in empathy for the Turkey, but then realized that, horror of all horrors, she does not like turkey... I could understand this if my bird was like my mother's sawdust turkey which was always over cooked, but I go to great efforts to plan ahead and cook low and slow, to get that perfectly bronzed and juicy bird we see in the media. Asking the kid what she does not like, I found out that she in fact does enjoy the turkey, but hates the aftermath of Turkey sandwiches, the Turkey curry, etc.... Clearly her problem is due to turkey overload.
She stated that she was happy that I did not serve turkey last year and asked that I do the same again this year...?!? ah, the TURDUCKEN.... Yup, I chose to tackle the challenge of making a Turducken, a turkey stuffed with a Chicken, stuffed with a Duck.... Although it sounds heavy and complicated, it is actually quicker to cook that a Turkey, not too difficult to prepare, and not any more heavy than eating turkey. Add to this, that the turkey, chicken and duck are deboned, and the resulting roast is a breeze to slice, and easy to serve.
Making a turducken in Montreal requires no special skills or anything too exotic, but there are a few tips worth following:
If you are making this for the first time, check out the recipe from Paul Prudhomme, it is tried and true, and it works.
You don't need the whole turkey, and will find it easier if you only use the Turkey breast only.
Use a whole deboned Chicken.
For the duck... Head over to Aubut and get some of their excellent and awesomely prices Magret. Don't buy the small ones which are more skin than meat. Buy the large marget. (To put things in perspective, Aubut sells a pair of marget for ~$11 where you would pay over $25 elsewhere.
If the layer of fat on the marget is too thick trim it down a bit.
Butterfly the magret so that it can be layered in the center of the assembly.
Pick up some good quality sausage for the sausage stuffing( yup, I was a skeptic too, but it is not overpowering and it works). Tranzo on Monkland has excellent sausage, Milano’s is a bit lean, but with the fat from the duck it should work.
If you attempt to make a Turducken this way, you will end up with an easy to truss roast that will cook in less time than a traditional turkey. And no, the prep does not take forever. It should take about an hour if you do not rush.
I weighed posting this elsewhere, but I felt it my duty to evangelize Montrealers on how not to inflict another turkey on your family and friends. This is a perfect way to enjoy thanksgiving for those of us who love turkey, but are dining with others that do not.
Be sure to invite hungry guests (or anyone like my brother the Freegan (eats anything as long as it is free)) and I can assure you Minimal leftovers. I will send you my brother if you need a pinch hitter.
Happy Thanksgiving.