Sneakeater

Yeah, I've thought about going in and just sitting at the bar (which is always my preference anyway) but the whole "declared" 5:30/10pm thing for us common folk had so far just pissed me off too much. I recognize that many restaurants do this without making a statement about it. This is the NY dining attitude I just can't deal with. There are great burgers elsewhere. What's funny about MT is that if you call them to ask for a reservation, they don't tell you it's impossible. They do what everybody else does: they make a show of looking in their book, and then say that all they have is 6 and 10. (Sometimes they tell you they're totally booked, even at 6 and 10 -- which I assume is honest.) So except for that one slip -- which they later recanted -- they don't have a "declared" policy but rather have the same hypocritical policy as every other hot restaurant in New York. Frankly, I liked it better those five minutes or so when they were honest about it. (It's more than just great burgers, I should add.)

Minetta Tavern is very good for what it is, and I am a fan, but I don't think it's on quite on the level the O.P. was asking for. Then add the high level of uncertainty about when they would be seated, and I would scratch it off the list for a 3-day stay. I couldn't agree more. (My last post was directed more at Daisy, who seems to be under the impression that she CAN'T EVER EAT THERE.)

To clarify, Minetta Tavern has made clear that if you're not a friend of the house, you won't get A RESERVATION any time other than 5:30/10:00 PM. There are tables reserved for walk-ins during more normal times, and I've seen waits vary from a couple of minutes to 45 minutes to 2 hours.

From your "can do" list, I'd personally pick Aldea, Jean Georges, and The Modern. I habitually eat late, but even I'd find a 10 PM at EMP rather trying. I would NOT go to Spice Market if I were you.

Exactly. It took Mendes over a year and a half to get Aldea open -- a time period during which Mendes wasn't in my face constantly reminding me about the delay to the point where he and his restaurant became something of a media joke. You're right that nobody had tried the blog thing before so it wasn't clear that it was a bad idea. But it was. I think part of the problem is that you're naturally sympathetic and interested as an industry insider. But people who aren't colleagues viewed it differently. I think it's hard to deny that it had a bad effect on Tailor. And like oakapple, I was a fan. I went there pretty frequently.

His big mistake was blogging the opening process. Too much hype. It simultaneously raised expectations exactly when he should have wanted to keep them down, and turned people off as overpublicizing.

Just to be clear, I'm defining the testa -- one of my favorite things in New York -- as a salumi.

Equal parts Campari and sweet vermouth, splash of soda, a twist or even a slice of citrus. Sort of like a Negroni without the gin. (Or a Campari and soda with vermouth.) One of the few cocktails native to Italy. BUT it gets worse. "Americano" also is the name of an aperitivo from the Piedmont. Try ordering one of THOSE and getting what you want (even if, as at L'Artussi, you can see it on their shelf).

You have cocktails for breakfast?

1. I don't think I've ever ordered an Americano in an Italian restaurant in New York and had the server OR bartender know what I was talking about. I ALWAYS get the espresso. (I'm not saying that to defend Maialino -- I think it sucks everywhere it happens.) 2. I like Lupa A LOT. But putting the matchless (in New York) salumi aside, I have NEVER had ANYTHING at Lupa as good (and as well-prepared) as the pig's foot antipasto at Maialino, or the coda di vaccinara segundo. And frankly, I thought the pastas we had at my table -- the long pasta (I don't remember which one) with cod and light tomato sauce, and the malfatti with roast pork -- were as good as Lupa pastas (which I agree is saying a lot).

I don't think you'd find Maiolino very satisfying if you wanted to stay about 23rd St. Above 20th St., maybe.

Yes. Notice his longstanding silence.

I want to hear Weinoo admit that this place is better than Lupa (which I think it pretty clearly is).

New York has yet to embrace "molecular" or "progressive" or whatever-you-want-to-call-it gastronomy. In some ways, this City is pretty conservative. Think about it this: this is the opposite of comfort food (the big general trend). The location didn't help.

But Le Barnardin and per se aren't "Vegas." If anything, most would complain that they aren't flashy enough. I think that there IS a New York esthetic. That's why so many people have been turned off by the dining room at SHO -- for not being consistent with it.

I love Minnetta Tavern. But you can't count on getting in there.

1. DO NOT GO to One If By Land, Two If By Sea. Just don't. 2. The best steak in New York is still at Peter Luger's. If you don't feel like going to Brooklyn (although it's not very far into Brooklyn), and if you want someplace that takes credit cards (Luger's requires cash), you might prefer to go to Wolfgang's instead. Happily for you, the midtown branch of Wolfgang's is nicer than the downtown branch. The steak at Minetta Tavern is great. But you won't be able to get in. (Give them a call and try, though. Now.) 3. You should consider going to Momofuku Ssam Bar. After all this time, I think it's STILL the most exciting restaurant in New York. But note that it's a lot less staid than most other places you've mentioned, if that's a problem for you. (I personally think Gramercy Tavern is boring. But that's very far from the consensus on this board.)

But of course a numeric rating wouldn't tell you that either.

I've eaten at per se when Chef Keller was there, and I've eaten there when he wasn't. It didn't seem very different to me either way. If the main difference is whether he personally invites you to the kitchen to meet him, that seems immaterial to me.

I'm surprised you'd say that about Sifton's DBGB review, Janet. I don't know whether it hurts or helps that I'd been to the restaurant several times before the review came out, but I thought it gave a pretty vivid picture of what eating there is like. (The only thing I think he underemphasized is the din in the bar area -- which is not felt in the dining room.)

There's a fairly famous remark made by the composer Sibelius. He much preferred the company of bankers to that of artists, he said. Bankers like to talk about art, he explained. Whereas artists only want to talk about money.

You must be referring to Jean Georges.

I admire anyone who can drink Unicum.

I think they were only mice.

Just to add another accolade for Chef Breeden. There are ways in which I even prefer some of his food to Chef Benno's.