For me, good Cab wines have their place at the dinner table. That compelling combination of acidity and tannin refreshes the palate effortlessly during the meal, and the fruit character should at once be restrained yet defined, with a mineral complexity to excite the senses. Of course, I'm talking about the more classic style. In the past week, most notably I've had Vinedo Chadwick 1999 from Chile, Ducru Beaucaillou 1996 and Martha's Vineyard 1997, the last two at the same meal. Chilean Cab blends can have a rather aggressive fruit profile, yet the Chadwick showed delightful restraint and integration, whilst still showing Chile's bright, pure fruit. Whilst the Ducru has all the hallmarks of 1996, fragrance, accessibility and a fine taught acidity allied with beautifully textured tannins, it was eclipsed by the Martha's Vineyard 1997. Despite double decanting this remained closed for much of the evening, until it suddenly blossomed into a multi-dimensional wine, showing layers of complexity. No matter how classic a wine is, if one is able to observe and enjoy its development during the course of an evening, can it really be boring?