BonVivant

Back from Athens. Life is so different only 3 hours (by air) away. Cold seafood is my favourite kind of food. "Pointed cabbage", raw, with some kalamata olive brine in it. Pumpernickel and seeded sourdough bread ------------------- Prawns in fermented bean curd sauce. (Mashed bean curd, some sugar, water etc) Char siu (from Asian supermarket, made on the premises) "Fried rice" (for someone else). Leftover rice, eggs, Amami grain miso and some crispy bits of Speck. Noodles with prawn roe (for myself) Happy to be cooking and eating my own food again!

I've recently spent a few days in the Greek capital, alone. One of us couldn't make the trip. ------------------- First thing I wanted to eat on my first morning in Athens was yoghurt. Stani is a small dairy shop, one of the last dairy specialists in Athens, that has traditional, real Greek-style yoghurt with quality milk sourced from small producers not far away. Small portion of cow's milk yoghurt Sheep's milk yoghurt. Rich and milky, and sheepy (tasting). I already had coffee before heading out but still wanted 2 cups of double Greek coffee. A "single" Greek coffee is tiny. 2 sips and it's done. The dairy shop is not easy to find as it's hidden in an alley. The central market is also in the area so of course I hit it next. The fish and meat sections are big, wet, and loud. Same snails I have eaten from northern to southern Greece, only what other things that go into the dishes are different. Interesting crab-like crustacean Shellfish specialist First lunch some time later. Had to eat it at least once. I'm in Greece, after all. Souvlaki Leivadia is not in the city centre. It's popular with locals, and tourists who don't mind walking or taking the metro to reach it. It's an easy 15-20 minute walk from my hostel. Finally it cooled down just a little in the evening... First visit to this small craft beer bar where I enjoyed a few nice beers. The moment my childhood dream came true... A sight to behold. The floodlit Acropolis (behind Erechtheion, parts of the Parthenon is visible from where I was standing). Such is the thrill of rediscovering ancient Greece in modern Athens. You'll be seeing photos of Acropolis again in the coming posts so be warned. Unfortunately for me, every waking moment was very stressful as silence simply does not exist in Athens. Massive crowds of tourists and Athenians pack the streets at all hours of the day and much of the night as well. I needed horse blinkers/blinders to limit the impact of distraction. It's very hot already (25C/77F), can't imagine being here in high season/summer when temperatures hover round 35C/95F and the sheer volume of tourists, not to mention the higher prices. I'd go bonkers.

6 full days of eating yoghurt, feta and souvlaki will commence tomorrow! (I just got in and it's bed time, unfortunately.)

All pizzas??? OK, I'm open to new ideas but this is ridiculous. Check this out, saw it on my way to the pubs (in Yokohama). I had a peek inside, looked like a regular pub to me. Of course they serve the national dish. (www.wyvern.yokohama) Thanks again, all!

Rotuts. Taking care of the neighbourhood's plants is encouraged. People plant flowers by the roadside in some neighbourhooods. Thanks! My year is full. More interesting trips (hopefully).

Can't believe it's all over shortly! 3 and a half weeks flew by just like that. Now on train platform about to depart Fujinomiya. This is like my very first Fuji sighting after exiting the train, but it was dark then when I arrived. Locals waiting on the platform, like these 2 women in the photo, immediately stepped aside so I could make a photo of Fuji. (This time I included waiting passengers on purpose, though.) Our final hours in Japan were spent in Yokohama. From here it's not too far from the airport anymore. We put our rucksacks in a locker at Yokohama train station and went in the direction of beer bars. (Today I learnt how to pronounce "Yokohama". The stress is on the second syllable). Adventures in eating in Japan. Pizza with prawns and sweetcorn. (No, didn't go inside. Had to get to the beer bars.) An unusually quiet alley in bustling Yokohama. We ate a quick lunch at another udon specialist here. With tofu With seaweed It's a tiny shop. This udon noodle machine is 1/3 the length of the shop/kitchen. We hit the beer bars after the udon. Many bars in Japan keep the beer kegs in a closet like this one. Sometimes it's also a glass "closet". I think because there's not much space, or no basement. And most bars serve warm/light meals. Some people like sweeping views and grand vistas of landscapes. I rather like views of a long row of beer taps! Like this wonderful view before me. On the walk back to the train station we dropped by a Vietnamese restaurant for a few Banh Mi to go. Unlike in the photo in their menu, what we got were a few strips of pork paste/cold cut. Could barely taste it. Northern Vietnamase run the place. (I ate good Banh Mi in Ha Noi.). Anyway, only found out when I opened the packages at the airport. Speaking of airports, it always sucks to be going back to hell! But I must. Because then I can look forward to planning the next trips. And thank you for reading along! /Bowing slowly/

It's our last day in Fujinomiya already. Felt like a long time ago since the day we left home for this holiday. We spent this last day to wander round many neighbourhoods and tried to find views of Mt. Fuji. There's a tiny shrine back there. Living close to Mt. Fuji We have read that the views were nice from the top floor at the city hall. At the city hall? We wanted to check that out. And indeed! Seen from inside. There's a model of Mt. Fuji in the room. Fuji and the town below. I held the camera outside one of the open windows to make this photo. The local craft brewery was not open to the public when we were there but they were still brewing and selling to shops. Street drain cover tries to blend in. If something has this kind of shape it has to look like the town's most famous sight. Fujinomiya's own yakisoba, and a photo of it is on every map board. Also what we had for lunch, at the yakisoba centre. Different versions from 2 different shops. Fresh udon for dinner. With mixed vegetables With grated yamaimo (Japanese mountain yam and king of neba-neba/slimy foods). No idea it was squid or cuttlefish/meat ball until I ate it. Used chopsticks to cut things open... This was meat ball. Never eat tempura at home but love it here. Maitake, sweet potato and lotus root. The last beers... All the beers since we came to Fujinomiya.

We took the train to a rural town called Minobu. This small town of just a little more than 11 thousand people is the gateway to Minobu-san/mountain. Endless steep steps take you half way there, then a cable car ride to reach the top, where the temple complex is located. One would need an ultra wide lens for the photos made here, mine wasn't wide enough so I didn't take more than a handful. In the old days it was a trail, now safe stone steps, albeit steep. This is the spot where you could view Mt. Fuji. Unfortunately, the clouds didn't move at all the whole time. Oh well, nature owns me nothing. Back in Fujinomiya the tip of Fuji was visible. Just got off the train and took this photo from the platform. Earlier today. Miso aubergine for breakfast. Dinner at an udon specialist. The few times we walked past it was packed so today we tried to arrive before the dinner crowd. Most employees were women. Everyone ordered this huge ball of onion tempura. We liked it but it was way too much/big. More tempura Ginger, nori, raw egg, and roe. With mince I wanted to try this monstrous thing but the partner would rather udon. Fresh ginger Beer and mochi.

We did a lot of walking today on another day trip, to Fuji city. Not too far away, maybe 30 minutes by a local train. The city is called Fuji, you see "Fuji" on many things. This bus stop sign... notice the hat again. Blue sign points to a tourist "food market" (very small with a few stalls specialising in rice bowl topped with a kind of tiny white fish). The markets or the food stalls here are run by the fishing cooperative. Well-maintained fishing boats at the fishery cooperative food centre We were passing through this part of town on the way to somewhere else. This is another Fuji train station, only Shinkansen (bullet trains) stop here. We did get off here when we took a Shinkansen from Tokyo and then a local train to our destination Fujinomiya. Yes, towards Mt. Fuji. That's why we came here. Covers in Fuji city The tiny white fish are a Fuji speciality. Unfortunately, we didn't get to try the rice bowl with these fish at the fishery cooperative food market because it was either sold out (most popular food item) or the freshly caught fish were not in season. Dried or processed version of the fish is readily available in supermarkets. At least there was a beer stall and a seaweed stall (I bought 5 packages to take home). I went for the "India pale lager". A strange tasting beer. It was a Sunday and we walked in areas far away from the centre where there was strangely no restaurants to be found. Finally saw this ramen restaurant after many hours of walking. They only serve ramen and udon here. A little spicy, in a very deep bowl. Back at Fuji train station later but we missed the train and the next departure was an hour later. We decided to check out the centre, which was just outside the station. As soon as we came down to street level we saw something on a side street that looked like a beer festival happening. It was, a mini beer tasting event, only 5 breweries and their taps. We tried most of them but only one stall had the best stuff. This one! A young man who was hanging round this booth much of the time started talking to us in English (but for more complicated thoughts he used his translation app, brilliant thing, worked very good). After having tried most of the beers from every booth I said to him I liked everything at this booth the most. High quality and proper craft beer. He started bowing profusely. Turns out he was an apprentice brewer and the beers I liked were his work. He just got hired by a craft brewery somewhere in Shizuoka. We exchanged emails. We have future plans to visit a couple of places in Shizuoka so maybe we will take him up on his offer to do a pub crawl there with him. Only 5 beer booths. I even tried an ESB (not cask dispensed). I asked if I could get these 2 beers to take back to the hotel with me. They used 2 water bottles and filled them with the 2 brand new beers that were tapped here for the very first time. Couldn't make it back in time so now we just had to join the queue, all the way at the entrance. Now inside in front of the udon maker. Everyone watched and admired the efficient workers. 2 big sinks filled with cold water to shock the noodles. Strainers with big wooden handles and a bamboo scoop similar to a pasta scoop/server. My dashi broth came out of this tap, boiling hot. You get the broth yourself, other add-ons such as sliced fresh green onions and deep-fried onions, ginger etc. We both like udon but having tried several different versions the simplest is still the best. Just good noodles, good dashi and some fresh ginger. With mince This morning And in the evening... Notice there's no photo of any special flavour such as seaweed, meat/fish etc. Calbee has a few of these that are flavoured with a soy sauce from a certain town or region. Beer from a stall we tasted and liked in Fuji City. Beautiful sight of Fuji again after a nice day out.

We used the tourist transport service again for this excursion to Lake Tanuki to do some walking in nature. Took some time to reach the lake, going through pine forests and quiet countryside. The walk was nice, the area was tranquil. There's one and only hotel next to the lake. During the walk we came across some elderly holidaymakers staying at this hotel. Some of them just stopped in front of us and laughed, then made a "you are so tall gesture" to the partner. They laughed again when we said "2 metres" (6'4"+). Lake Tanuki is one of the spots to see Mt. Fuji "double diamond". The placed is packed with people and photography enthusiasts in late April/August. English texts: "Around 20 April and 20 August every year, the sun rising from the top of Mt. Fuji shines like a diamond. It is more beautiful in April because the air is clearer". A small shrine facing the lake. The guard cat: "thou shall not pass!" A dozen men and their fishing rigs at the lake. The tip of Fuji was not visible. Saw someone with a big camera waiting for the clouds to move. They remained like this for hours. A small lenticular cloud was forming on top of Fuji. It happens often enough, and quite massive sometimes. Now you can see that lenticular cloud a bit better here. Natto every morning. Fujinomiya-style yakisoba is not well known in Japan, unlike other types of yakisoba. If you do an image search for "yakisoba" you'll see many big chunks of meat and other colourful stuff in it. Way too much meat in everything "Japanese", really. Mine had a couple of very thin slices of belly pork, the other plate was the same but with one extra ingredient, tiny dried shrimp. The only noodle shop that was still open this late afternoon. Many people come here to try yakisoba from different shops at this "yakisoba centre". After ordering you get a paper cup for this. Some snacks we ate during the walk at the lake earlier. (Natural/unflavoured purple sweet potato crisps far left and cooked purple sweet potatoes far right.) Fujinomiya gets lots of day trippers who come to visit the shrine and Mt. Fuji world heritage centre. These tiles are seen on roads that lead to those places. Noodles on a cover? It does exist. More new beers to try.

(Several different meals, consumed on different days. A nostalgia trip back to childhood for the partner. We are atheists.) Oats and various fruits, nuts, dark chocolate. Deep green pistachios come from Iran. North Sea shrimp on Pumpernickel. Eggs with smokey aubergine (left), sweet squash as a spread (right). Pumpernickel and cheese ---------- Mini cheese fondue Some cold cuts (not for dipping in cheese) Bread for the fondue Not for dipping in cheese ------------ Good jamón. Cold water rosé shrimp from Norway. How I usually eat the shrimp: with some quark and greens Just my usual Pacific oysters ----------------- Don't like sweets but can't have enough of Turkish baklava. Got 2 coffee drip filter thingies on my last day in Ha Noi (circa 2004/05). --------------- Sometimes a meal consists of just one thing. These are flat oysters (Ostrea edulis).

I had some leftover black lentils. Rest of the spread: blood sausage, Mettwurst, beetroot-walnut spread, natto, smoked sprats. --------------- Soft tofu with seaweed Roe and salmon (quinoa underneath) I'm particularly fond of roe.

I go to the big city Düsseldorf every few moths or so to replenish Japanese and Korean ingredients, to the market and visit a local brewery restaurant each time. Before going I check the weekly menus on breweries' websites, the day special is the reason for my visit to a certain brewery when in town. This time I went to one of my firm favourites, Zum Schlüssel. On to my second Altbier (middle). Day special was wonderfully crispy potato fritters (with smoked salmon). From the menu of weekly specials: belly pork with Sauerkraut and mash. I could stay here all day but I had to get things done after 5 beers. The amount stated is the amount you pay. Unassuming on the outside, quite big and beautiful inside. Need to get there early to get your favourite table. Soon the regulars (mostly pensioners) and workers nearby will arrive and sit at their favourite tables. My favourite table (and other introverts' also). The time is usually on the reservation card but as it was still early they put the cards there to keep you from occupying the tables. They were removed when more people arrived. Today's special (potato fritters with smoked salmon and herbed cream) Schwemme is an area in the front or side part of a brewery restaurant where you have a quick beer or two and usually drink it standing. Other photos: It's warm enough to have palm trees this far north. Specific parking for this type of bikes. I'm a sucker for some old things and tech. Line under Luxus reads "made in W(est) Germany". Locals and tourists alike enjoy going out to eat and drink. So many cafes and eating/drinking places in town. Like many big cities elsewhere, this one has its share of problems and challenges. Seems every time I'm in town I see more people in destitute situations. Cover I think every town in Germany has a Birkenstock shop. Street musician Could be his next watch I always buy charcuterie from their trailer at the market. Only saw this today. Will check it out next time. Looks like a "vintage" photo but it's just a gloomy day. New life for an old bike A shop that sells only Easter things. Easter is next week. Some people don't mind paying this price for an early treat. (Mid April is the official start of the season.) A wonderful potato stall at this market. There are a lot more on the other side. Potatoes from all over the place. I've bought new stuff to try a bunch of time. Like them both Now at my favourite bakery. Both types of shio koji I buy miso from different Japanese/Korean shops. Dropped by Schumacher brewery for one last beer before heading back to the bus terminal. OK. ONE drink... Some of the things I bought. I like the seasoned seaweed left of the photo. Brought only 1 bag home from Amami, happy to find it at a Japanese shop here. Maggi produces soy sauce in Vietnam. I've never seen it till now.

Udon noodles/mushrooms/prawns. Udon/tofu/doenjang (a type of Korean fermented soy bean paste) ------------ Raclette toastie Oats with a mix of various nuts and seeds (takes seconds to pulse in a FP). ----------------- Bucatini/meatballs/creamy dill sauce. ---------------------- For my latest marmalade I used Limon Rosso from Valencia. Limon Rosso is aromatic but nothing like bergamot, which is just aMAzing. Yellow like regular lemons on the inside. Very juicy. Have been eating this lately. Very sweet and bright orange flesh. Will buy again in the autumn. Here it was at the farm Has been "trending" since antiquity. This is Spitzkohl ("pointed" cabbage) as seen in the field. I like the purple version more but it's only available in autumn.

My breakfast. Roe and natto. This hotel's breakfasts didn't have any fruit. I guess because fruits are expensive here. I got my own apples and kakis (persimmons). I love fruits and need them. These apples were like 2 bucks each. Kaki cost minimum 4 bucks each. The city has a transport service (vans) for non driving tourists so they can still visit other villages and tourist spots in the area. Perfect for us who don't drive. The vans have certain routes and fixed departures so it's not like a taxi kind of service. The tourist information office has brochures and one English speaking employee who could help us decide which excursions to take. Once again, the drivers were all elderly men. For today's excursion we visited Asagiri Kogen. This area is known for its dairy farms and nice views of Mt. Fuji. Heavily overcast when we arrived but the sun did come out briefly near the end. Sweet potatoes are the most common kind grown here, specifically purple. Purple sweet potato everything. Small-scale production and home-grown produce for sale. People in small/remote towns and villages rely upon these (hobby) farmers. There's a small simple restaurants in this tourist spot. We got meatball and pork stir-fry. Both came with cabbage (a popular vegetable in Japan, just like in Europe). Other photos taken today: Notice the hat? Traffic cones also look like Fuji here. Basically, anything cone shape is Fuji. Fujinomia yakisoba. Fuji hat again. This sign tells you when the kakis are at their sweetest. There are several types, one of which I have only seen for the first time (second photo below). Information about the producer(s) and how you can order directly from them. Dinner was shabu-shabu (savoury broth fondue). You choose a set of meat type and amount, all the vegetables and other bits are unlimited (get them yourselves at the buffet). 2 new beers today. The beer in a big metal bottle came from Fujiyoshida, where many iconic photos of Fuji are taken. Fujiyoshida is a lot more developed and crowded, with faster direct rail link from the capital. It also has its own udon soup that's only made and sold there. Fujiyoshida is on our list for future Japan visits.