trufflelover

I stopped eating meat (aside from fish/seafood) before my first trip to France, so on the half-dozen-plus trips I've taken, I've yet to taste a bite of meat. I've recently reintroduced some meats into my diet, and will be spending two days in Paris following two weeks studying in Gascony. I've never sought out vegetarian restaurants (in fact, the opposite), but did look for veggie-friendly places. Now that the whole world of French cuisine is open, I'd love suggestions for places to eat in Paris(I'll be alone) in the 35 euro range. Some of my favorites in the past have included L'Epi Dupin, the fixed price menu at Flora, Pulcinella and Chez Michel (in the 10th). I'll never be the type that orders a meat-lovers' anything, but I'm very curious about experiencing this new aspect of French food.

I'm so excited to have applied for and received a two-week culinary writing residency at Kitchet-at-Camont, a culinary center run by Kate Hill in rural southwest France. My first week I'll participate in a regularly scheduled program -- Camp Confit. My second week is entirely up to me in terms of what to do, where to visit, what to learn to cook. It's an embarrassment of riches -- with France before me, how to I begin to narrow it down? On one of the 7 days Kate and I will visit le Marché aux Truffes de Lalbenque, and if I can scrape up enough euros, maybe even purchase some for for dinner that night. Other than this I have a week wide open to plan a program that will help me learn about the cuisine of southwestern France. Aside from simply learning some cooking techniques, my primary focus will be the connection people have with their food - with farms, food artisans, butchers, etc. I would love suggestions for either particular dishes to study (foie, pate, cassoulet and confit are covered the first week), or excursions/experiences to work into the time. It's my first time to this region of France. Thanks!

My next pickup is tonight. Here's what we're getting: Squash Lettuce Radishes Broccoli Cauliflower Parsley Kale I leave town tomorrow so I only get one meal from this mix. Ideas on one great meat-free dinner with at least two of these ingredients? (I have orzo, assorted pasta, brown rice, and assorted cheeses and oils on hand, as well as a few fresh herbs) THanks!

They were easy - just tear the greens into chip-sized sections, brush with olive oil and sea salt, and pop in the oven (I used the toaster oven so I didn't heat up the house) for about 7 minutes, turning halfway. A couple burned but the rest were crispy and good.

Thanks everyone for the good suggestions, especially the books. I made kale chips last night to go with a sandwich, and am thinking either stir fry or some udon noddles tonight to use the napa cabbage and broccoli.

For a while now, my husband and I have planned our menus a (work) week at a time. On weekends we flip through our books and magazines and browse online to settle on five dinners to make that week. Then in one afternoon we pick up what we need all week. That worked well for making weeknight dinners stress-free, and helped us budget for groceries. That's out the window now that our (first) CSA farm share has started. We'll pick up our produce (and fruit and herbs) on Thursday and will need to plan our next few meals around whatever we receive. I need to be able to roll with whatever we get, which means I'll need a better-stocked pantry. What do you recommend we keep on hand to be able to whip up something great with whatever we happen to bring home on Thursdays? (Neither of us eat most meat, so meals will be veg, grain or fish-centered) Thank you! (Here's part of our first week's basket)

ooh, yeah the pesto went on at the end

ms foodie - love the look of the smoked salmon with creme fraiche on fried fingerling potatoes!

Beautiful garnishes, chef Bradley! I have been reading Markets of Provence in preparation for my upcoming trip, and was inspired by the Provencal soupe au pistou. This version has butternut squash in addition to the green and white beans, carrots, potatoes, tomatoes, onions, zucchini and pasta. And for dessert a dangerously good chocolate cake with vanilla icing dusted with Saigon cinnamon.

That shrimp looks amazing! I had leftover Calvados cream sauce from my scallops last night -- didn't want to waste it so I stretched it and had Penne in a Calvados + thyme cream sauce with sauteed shrimp, appley artichokes and wilted spinach (plus a few pine nuts and some mozzarella).

Thank you! Can't wait to try it

Percyn -- would you share the 'fennel and pear take on the Waldorf' recipe? I am a newly converted fennel fan and am always looking for yummy things to do with it. The salad looks fabulous!

Shaya - love the raviolis! Shoutsandmurmurs - beautiful salad photo! We had a belated Valentine's dinner ... Butternut squash + apple soup, Seared scallops on spinach with a Calvados cream sauce, and Goat cheese + thyme mashed potatoes.

Tonight we made pan seared scallops with butternut squash risotto with a truffled sage + brown butter sauce.

Thanks! I didn't have onion soup - they served vegetable soup, red wine, bread, a meat plate and cheeses. I don't actually eat most meat and at 9 a.m. I couldn't bring myself to drink the wine so I had a nice bread and cheese plate I haven't written the article yet but it's in the works. I'm trying to think of a more interesting angle than just "we went here, we saw this, blah blah blah ..." Was thinking of putting it in a bigger context with a little history of Les Halles. I'm submitting it to International Travel News. (They're pubishing a cooking class story of mine in February and are interested in a Rungis story.) I think any disappointment stems from the rushed manner we flew through the markets, and how little action was actually taking place. We spent more time having breakfast than we did touring the market and I didn't find the value equal to the cost. But then again it is a very unique experience so all in all I'm glad we did it.

Any further updates? I'm spending (alas) only 24 hours in Istanbul in June and the pressure is on for a romantic Turkish dinner - with live music would be nice.

In the event, we did go. It was certainly interesting -- I'm not quite sure why it's so expensive -- but now that I've done it I won't need to go again. It's essentially a vast commercial market and even as early as we arrived we saw only the end of the fish market. I tried to get my money's worth with photos at least and have a flickr album of Rungis Market.

Thanks! Done and with a link to egullet

Thanks! I've been waiting for this to appear - leaving day after tomorrow May I quote this in my blog?

Great story! I've never had French truffles, and would like to someday so I can compare. I got my education about them from "A Year in Provence."

I had never given any thought to whether foodie was elitist ... I just thought it was a useful way to explain away my tendency to spend vastly more time researching where to eat when I travel than I do on the *other* stuff (you know, museums, castles, art and whatnot )

My husband and I are thinking of doing a Rungis market tour in Paris in October. We're not food professionals, so to my knowledge the only way to gain access is a paid tour through Visite Rungis or other more expensive private guides. It's 65 euros each, and they bus us out to the market at 5 in the morning, we tour the market and have breakfast. Seems a bit steep, especially considering we can't purchase anything - looking only. But I think it would be fascinating to see. And I hope to get an article out of it. Plus I love food photography, and since I've joined the ranks of digital-SLR toters, I think I could just go crazy taking pictures. Anyone know of a way to see the market that won't cost 130 euros? When I think of the food I could buy with that money, I begin to doubt whether we should do it. On the other hand, how often will I happen to be in Paris on the second Friday of the month when the tour is offered? And maybe they will have truffles - I've never smelled fresh truffles at 5 am.

Am I too late? I have lived here a couple years and find it a great town for restaurants. One of my favorites for ethnic food is Vietnam Kitchen - the mock duck is my favorite. In a strip mall in the "south end," very inexpensive. The best hummus I've ever had is at El Wattan. They also have yummy falafel sandwiches. Lynn's is where I take all my out of town guests, the sweet potato fries are wonderful. I suggest driving down Bardstown Rd and following your nose.

Thanks for the welcome. I've been too intimidated by the knowledge here to post before, but when it comes to tracking down truffles, well, I had to take the plunge sometime. I liked your writeup of Un Jour a Peyrassol and will plan to check that out. I don't think anywhere starred is in the budget, sadly - we ate at Charlie Trotters (my first visit to a temple of haute cuisine) last month, and that's pretty much our one big splurge for the year. Though, hmmm, if we don't take the Rungis tour we're planning, that bit of the budget could be moved from the sightseeing to the eating column for a start. I'll definitely check back next month to see what's coming up in October. I agree, it will be a great time to be in Europe. Then again, when isn't?

I'll be in Paris mid-October. The same time two years ago I had my first truffle experience, in Alba. Please pardon my ignorance, but will it be possible to have something with fresh white truffles in Paris during Italian truffle season? I emailed Le Maison de la Truffes and they said they have only truffles in jars in October. Thanks for any guidance you can provide to this truffle-addict.