molto e
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Posts posted by molto e
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Whilst I had my back turned, Richard Gere opened a restaurant in Bedford, NY. I think it's supposed to be a casual bistro, an upscale restaurant and an 8 room inn, but there's a scarcity of info. Buzz when it opened and now much of anything. Anyone been there?
Richard hired my good friend Chef Brian Lewis to run both the of the concepts. Brian is a serious talent and you can read my report on him while he was at the Vu in Scottsdale. Also, Martha, yes that Martha, is a big fan of what Brian is doing up there. I very much look forward to getting up that way to see what Brian is doing with all the great purveyors that he has sourced for the project. He also brought in Sous-Chef Jeremy McMillan to work with him from Redd in Napa and previously Zinc Bistro in Phoenix. He also got a little love from the NY Times.
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Great report, Ron. Eliot, can you say a few things about how those huckleberries are pickled?
Chris,
2 cups Red Wine Vinegar
1 cup Sugar
1 cup Water
3 pieces Whole Star Anise
1 Vanilla Bean Split
5 Allspice
1/2 Tablespoon Whole Black Peppercorns
4 cloves
toast spices in a pan...add vin, water, sugar and v bean to toasted spices let simmer until sugar dissolves and everything has enough time to "mingle" then strain liquid over huckleberries and let cool to room temp then refrigerate for up to two weeks
less fuss way to enjoy:
come to noca...order...put in mouth...say yum
we also use them on a seared foie dish with black pepper- fuji apple reduction, pickled huckleberries, brioche crouton...
Best,
E
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E, Are you guys boooked up for this coming saturday?
we are limiting the covers for a bit, but ring me at the restaurant manana and I will make sure you are taken care of...
E
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We will most definitely open up Friday August 1st...we just want to make sure everything is in place...
Eliot, congratulations on passing your inspections! Don't try this in the city of Los Angeles, unless you want more hoops to go through ...
You might want to double-check your menu on your website for spelling et al.:
Fettucine or Fettuccine?
Please pardon the pickiness. Mind you, you don't get a second chance to make a first impression. No pressure, ehh?
You got your purveyors all lined up? Are you sourcing your produce from California and/or more locally? What's been the buzz around town about your restaurant?
Please respond at your earliest convenience, as though you have nothing else to do ...
Again, wishing you well, Eliot.
Hi Russell,
Spelling is a moot point on that dish because we have taken that one off the final menu...as far as purveyors go-we have a few superstar local organic growers that we try and get as much product from as possible, but in the heat of the Arizona summer their offerings diminish. The produce company that we get the majority of our products from sources some things thru the Santa Monica Farmers Market. As for the buzz, let's see how it shakes out when we open up on Friday.
Best,
E
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So can I walk-in this coming Saturday night for Simple Supper?
we have the green light...we are going to open for business on Wednesday July 30...let me know when you are going to stop in
E
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Is NOCA open yet?
Final Inspections this morning...
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Well, I ate here last week. Was pretty excited, but underwhelmed when I ate. te ribs were okay, maybe good, but the pork and the brisket lacked smoke flavor and seasoning. Not worth the wait in line. Too bad. There is better in Chicago.
That is too bad and not at all representative of any of my visits there. What time of day did you try Smoque out? I can not get any good "Q" out my way and Smoque is a place that I crave.
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Eliot, the menu looks fabulous! I love the 3-course meals, what a great option to include. And the crudo menu too, wowza! I see a foie gras piece on the menu and some duck, will you also be offering other offal? Sweetbreads, marrow bones, etc
Thanks Genny...we will offer sweetbreads, marrow bones etc. down the line. We will print the menu in house so it will change very frequently.
Would you call noca a "new paradigm" type of restaurant? Upscale food, reasonable prices, casual and chic/hip?I like Graham Elliot's verbiage of "refined dining", our aim to to create an experience that we would like as a diner. Our Chef Chris Curtiss's background is in fine dining kitchens (Fifth Floor, Charles Nob Hill and Masa's both as Sous-Chef for Ron Siegel) so we will have the attention to detail from fine dining but presented in a casual but attentive atmosphere at an accessible price point.
Are you going to have a full bar? Will it be a mixologist sort of bar? Also, what can you tell us about the wine list, wines by the glass, etc.?We will have a full bar and will have some fun with the drink offerings. The wine list will be comprised of California, French, Italian, Spanish and Australian wines with glasses from $6 - $12 and the bottles will have a range of pricing.
I will have some dates soon as we have a couple of final inspections to follow...
look forward to having you...
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UGA is playing at AZ St this fall and a group of us are heading in that direction. Fuss and I are taking the entire week and making a vacation but meeting folks over the w/e for the game. I have gotten some great ideas fr/ some of the posters over here but want some specifics and assistance in making things definite.
Plans are for the two of us to head straight for the Grand Canyon and dine at the lodges Tues & Wed nights (unless a better suggestion is offered). We will need to find a good (well-stocked & cheap!) liquor store some where between the airport and the highway out of town. From there we head over to Holbrook area and have no clue as to what might be there for decent food so are at your mercy. On Friday we meander our way down to Phx/Tempe/Scottsdale and hope to stop for lunch at Tortilla Flats just to say we did it.
We will meet friends (there will be 6+) on Fr for dinner and want some thing w/ a local flavor (some one suggested a place called Richardson's and I wanted to get opinions there or if there is a better "local" spot). We are also looking for some thing relatively close to Sun Devil Stadium for before the game (usually we would tail gate but having to fly limits us to what we can take). Any suggestions there would be most appreciated.
Most folks will be leaving on Sunday but Fuss and I are staying until Wed and want some suggestions for Sun/Mon/Tues pm. I know Sun/Mon is restaurant hell so any help there is definitely appreciated. We will try to hit Binkley's on Tuesday b/c of the recommendations fr/ the board and would love to try Cyclo and Zinc Bistro but can not find their hours/ days of operation on their web sites.
Looking forward to the trip and to any suggestions.
Bev-Mo in Tempe is not that far from the airport
Beverages & more! Tempe, AZ
15 S. McClintock Dr
Tempe, AZ 85281
Store Contact: Email: store83@bevmo.com
Phone: (480) 446-0368
Fax: (480) 446-0370
Zinc is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner
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Excellent report and photos, David. The food at L'Atelier is certainly impeccable. The egg dish is interesting and very similar to one that Dan barber serves at Blue Hill at Stone Barns. I would be curious to know whose dish and technique this really is. Is it Barber's? Robuchon's? Someone else entirely? My guess is that the egg is cooked to temperature in a water bath or other precisely temperature controlled device, then peeled , coated in panko and quickly deep-fried. I have had Barber's version and it is wonderful.
Doc...the method that I am familiar with is the standard method of poaching but stopping when barely set then into cold water...dry the egg and standard breading procedure then a quick fry so the egg stays molten...delicious...we will have a crispy poached egg with a prime ribeye at NOCA.
E
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I have been trying to locate a copy of the Noma cookbook in English for a while now. Every time I think I have got a copy in my grasp, it slips away. I have recently been told that it was a limited run and that no more copies in English will be printed.
Can someone help me locate a copy? Please....
Kitchen Arts and Letters in New York is where I bought my copy from...
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April 13, 2008
From the Arizona Republic:
Vegas Dining...Food Critic Howard Seftel reviews a few high-end tables in Vegas.
From the Phoenix New Times:
Frozen Yogurt in the Valley...Stacey's Smokehouse...Overeasy...Humble Pie...Food Critic Michele Laudig's latest reviews...
From the Tucson Citizen:
Sunny Daze Cafe...Food Critic Tom Stauffer's latest review in "Cheap Eats" is the Sunny Daze Cafe, which he finds is an "imaginative, little island in an ocean of standard-issue breakfast and lunch joints>"
Trattoria Pina...Tom Stauffer reviews Trattoria Pina and feels the "the house specialties have stood the test of time for good reason and will yield positive results."
From the Tucson Weekly:
Dragon's Village Restaurant...My Big Fat Greek Restaurant...Chow Bella...Bayou Cafe...some recent reviews from the Tucson Weekly gang.
Good Eating,
Molto E
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Try Digestif...
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I have a reservation for tomorrow evening. Does anyone know if the Japanese Kobe comes with the "Uber Omakase" or the regular Omakase?
Molto e, want to meet up tomorrow?
sorry I did not see your post until now...
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RS,
I have been keeping this place quiet...only 8 stools inside and summer is coming, you blew it. This is a great place to take someone for the first time because first of all it is relatively unknown and cool authentic diner spot. I love the owner's commitment to using organic ingredients...he is at the Wednesday Farmers Market picking up McClendon produce for the restaurant. The hot dogs he uses come from Schrieners, which is a long time Phoenix purveyor.
Molto E
I stopped in yesterday and found a new menu since my last visit...
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Facing the wall as I was, I had the 'pleasure' of the busboy's genitals being mashed into the back of my right shoulder repeatedly over the course of the evening. I joked that I didn't know figs were on the menu.
was there an up charge for the fig course
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Phoenix Best Bets:
Lo-Lo's Fried Chicken and Waffles
Kohnies-Coffee, Breakfast and Best Scones
Pane Bianco - Chris Bianco's Sandwich Spot
Matt's Big Breakfast & Roosevelt Tavern
Andreoli Italian Grocery & Deli
Quiessence Restaurant & Wine Bar
On the radar...
Yasu Sushi Bistro
with all the rave reviews, this place has got to be good...
4316 E. Cactus Road, Phoenix (602) 787-9181
Overeasy- New Breakfast spot from the Soy Y Sambra gang
Ranch House Grille- old school breakfast...very good
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I made my maiden trip to Cafe Bink, Chef Kevin Binkley has his long time proteges Chef Brendan Gauthier and Sous-Chef Ryan O'Connell leading the way to what looks to be a sure hit.
Chef Brendan Gauthier
Sous-Chef Ryan O'Connell
Interior of Cafe Bink
house-made foccacia with olive oil
We started with...
French Fries-spicy aioli, house-made ketchup
Quiche -bacon, blue cheese, spinach
Foie Gras Terrine -brioche, orange marmalade, watercress
Country Pâté -caperberry, pickled red onion, mustard, toast
Then we followed with:
Chilled White Wine Poached Salmon -marinated cucumber salad, olives, sauce vert
Red Wine Braised Duck Leg -creamy grits, grapes
Corned Beef - cabbage, apple
Hanger Steak - scalloped potatoes, broccolini, demi-glace
My favorites were the foie terrine (big surprise
), fries (two orders), corned beef, red wine braised duck leg (loved the creamy grits),.and to satisfy my sweet tooth:
Strawberries and Cream-sweet balsamic reduction, vanilla zabaglione
Pecan Pie-caramel sauce
Chocolate Torte-pistachio madeleines, pistachio cream
Creme Brulee
Dessert favs were the chocolate torte and the pecan pie.
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When Chef Joel Robuchon, basketball wizard Michael Jordan, pitcher Roger Clemens and Chef Giovanni Scorzo announced their retirements for the “first time,” their fans were devastated as each of those luminaries had so much more to give. Fortunately, retirement was brief and each returned to perform again at the level that made him famous.
Perhaps Chef Giovanni Scorzo’s name is not as widely known to the Phoenix diner as the other talents in that group, but it should be. He serves the most authentic Italian cuisine in the Valley—and some attest he serves the only authentic Italian cuisine in the Valley.
Porchetta...succulent right out of the oven and it also makes a great pannini
As Chris Bianco, owner of Pizzeria Bianco, told me, “In my opinion, Giovanni is the most underrated chef in the country.”
Giovanni, or Gianni as his friends and devout fans call him, was the original owner of Leccabaffi and Galileo Bread Emporio. After selling both of these places a few years ago, he’s now returned to the kitchen with Andreoli Italian Grocer.
Located a few lengths of sausage from the corner of Via Linda and 90th Street in Scottsdale, the business is definitely a family affair. At any time you can find Gianni, his wife Linda or daughter Francesca (who makes a mean pasta amatriciana) taking orders at the counter. Gianni compares it to what would be called a “pizzicheria” in Italy.
Giovanni and Linda
“Pizzicheria means little bite,” he says, “where you can get a little bit of everything: cheese, salami, prosciutto, wine, little oil, little coffee. It’s not a full grocery store…. For an Italian who comes here, you can find everything.”
When you go to Andreoli you’re in for a bit of a culture shock because English is not the primary language spoken… parla Italiano, anyone? There is the old saying: “To eat well, go where the truck drivers go.” If you apply it to Andreoli, you’re following Italians who go to the restaurant in droves.
Gianni was born in Calabria, Italy, into a family that loved food. From an early age, Gianni learned an unusual respect for ingredients from his family. When it was time for the family pig to become dinner, he witnessed every part of the pig used to create something, from salumi to soap (oh, dip me in that kind of bacon grease).
suckling pig from the Andreoli Christmas Party
Giovanni escorting the pig fresh out of the oven to the serving board...oh that crispy skin
In the first grade he was already displaying skill in putting together a feast. According to Gianni, he would organize what his little crew of friends would bring for lunch.
He’d ask each of them, “What are you bringing tomorrow for lunch? Your father went mushroom hunting—bring porcini. Your father made some fresh ricotta. You, bring peppers. You have salami from your grandma? No? OK, you bring some filled eggplant. And on and on. Then the next day we would lay it all out and it was beautiful.”
salumi platter- sopressata, proscuitto, porchetta ,black pepper pecorino
Growing up in Calabria there was no refrigeration in Gianni’s home so everything was fresh. Nothing canned or frozen was kept in his home. Every day his mother went to the market. She was extremely picky and would not settle for anything but the best quality from the vendors.
When Gianni was young, she would send him to the market to pick something up. If it did not meet her standard, then the next day she would take him back to the market and let the vendor have it for taking advantage of her little boy. These lessons were not lost on Gianni.
His mother and aunt both cooked professionally at different restaurants, so his lessons at home were taught by skilled chefs. All his memories of food are punctuated by aromas, rather than touch or sight. When he describes a dish with his eyes closed and head rolled back, every dominant detail revolves around the smell.
chestnuts roasting on a open fire at the Andreoli Christmas party
Gianni tells me, “When I smell something, I know. If you put veal in front of my nose, I know it is veal, not beef. I don’t need to see, I don’t taste food … I smell.”
Instead of a traditional high school in Italy, following eighth grade Gianni decided to attend cooking school. This decision allowed him to travel to Piedmont, Liguria, Florence, Calabria and many other parts of Italy to learn their regional cuisines, an experience he brought with him when he moved to the United States in 1985.
Gianni arrived in Phoenix in 1986 after spending some time in California and working in New York for Pino Luongo. However, our first preview of his cuisine was in 1988 with the opening of La Bruschetta at Camelback and Scottsdale.
According to Gianni, “Food for me—any place that I would do, even in America when my wife and I first opened—my intention was always: only my way or I would shut down. I don’t have any marinara; in Italy marinara is a pizza, not a sauce. No alfredo, no chicken Parmigiana. The food has to be original or I don’t do it. If I had to cook that food, then I would become a mechanic.”
It was during this time that Chris Bianco first met Gianni. Chris says, “Gianni is very knowledgeable not only from a culinary perspective but also a cultural one. As a kid coming from the Bronx, [i realized that] most of the [popular] dishes at that point were from the Italian-American perspective, not good or bad, but from the importance of a sub-culture, first you have to learn the classics before you can expand on anything new. The thing with Gianni is that he would not play the game. He was revolutionary in his unwillingness not to compromise and just give people what they wanted.”
In 1990 Gianni was presented with an opportunity to open a restaurant in Santa Fe. He hired Chris to move to Santa Fe to work with him on the opening of Babbo Ganzo. The restaurant was well received, getting positive reviews from a number of magazines including Bon Appetit and Travel + Leisure. Gianni was then presented with the opportunity to revive Zingari restaurant in the venerable Donatello Hotel in San Francisco. When this opportunity presented itself, he wound down his other ventures and moved with his wife to San Francisco.
After four years there, Gianni moved his family back to Phoenix in 1997 and opened Leccabaffi and, soon thereafter, the Galileo Bread Emporio. Leccabaffi was highly touted as the best Italian restaurant in Phoenix, further cementing Gianni as the capo of Italian cuisine in town.
After a great run at Leccabaffi, Gianni grew tired of the day-to-day operations of running a restaurant and elected to sell the restaurant and bread shop in 2003 to spend more time helping to raise his children. I can only imagine his kids’ friends angling to come over for dinner when Dad was cooking.
Then in 2007 Andreoli was opened. I approach my visits to Andreoli a little differently during the day than when I go at night. During the day, make sure to check the board at the door to see if there are any specials and then make your way towards the counter.
The first display case has sweets made by Gianni including, but not limited to, tiramisu, meringata, zuccotto, zuppa inglese, baci, cookies, truffles and torta pistachio—so good. The next display case contains all the cheeses—Italian of course: house-made mozzarella, house-made ricotta (the best in town, it puts store-bought to shame), buffalo mozzarella from Italy and a bunch of other choices that you may not have heard of, so ask for a recommendation (stracchino is great).
dessert spread at the Andreoli Christmas Party...bomboloni Florentine with lemon, sfogliatelle, struffoli
The salumi in the next case are the commercial brands that Gianni likes but if you fancy salumi, make sure you ask for his house-made salumi that is curing in the cooler (wild boar salumi, culatello, pancetta, salami Calabrese). His salumi is the closest to the way salumi tastes in Europe that you will ever be able to sample in Phoenix. I highly recommend buying some and leaving it out of the refrigerator until it reaches room temperature so the flavors cold temperature tends to mask can bloom.
Gianni's Salumi Locker
The final display case holds his house-marinated olives, frittatas and arancini (fried rice balls filled with meat sauce). Gianni also sells various meats including huge prime aged T-bone steaks for Bistecca alla Fiorentina (he will dress them for you to grill at home), veal chops, lamb chops, oxtail, rabbit, venison, house-made sausage and tripe.
The regular menu has an array of panini that make perfect lunch sandwiches. My favorites are porchetta, and the sausage, pepper and onion combo. Warning: Please do not ask for tomato sauce or you will upset Gianni. He wants you to taste and savor the flavor of the sausage.
The Stuzzichini Mozzafiato (antipasto) part of the menu contains two preparations of calamari that are both fantastic. The calamaretti di suora celeste is fried and is served with only a wedge of lemon because Gianni does not believe in masking the flavor of a quality ingredient. The calamaretti del sacrestano is the version that is marinated and grilled. It is sooooo delicate and clearly my favorite.
calamaretti del sacrestano
Nighttime at Andreoli feels like an Italian social club, not so different than Satriales Pork Shop with all of the Sopranos sitting around (with the clear distinction that this family is all and only about the food.) Gianni says that at night people feel like they are having dinner at home and we all talk.
The specials on the board change nightly and some are more pricey than you would expect in a deli/grocery setting but his food cost his high and Gianni says he will not “cheat the customers on quality—I can’t do it.”
Be sure to order one of the handmade pasta specials (especially any that are dressed with Gianni’s Bolognese sauce) so you can sample how pasta is supposed to taste. After you finish the pasta, grab a slice of his fresh-baked bread to wipe the plate clean.
fresh tagliatelle borragine dressed with veal sauce
fresh tagliatelle with cuttlefish ink and ragu
If you are a fan of calamari, ask for Gianni’s pasta with calamari. This is spaghetti tossed with tender calamari in an addictive tangy tomato sauce. When baby-back ribs are in the case, then it is almost impossible to pass up the Italian ribs that are dry rubbed and grilled.
The Bistecca alla Fiorentina with grilled radicchio and scamorza can easily feed two with some leftovers to spare.
Bistecca alla Fiorentina with grilled radicchio, cherry tomatoes and scamorza
lamb with potato and rucola
Gianni says, “Italian is the most beautiful food in the world if it is made in the right way. It is the best but it has to be respected. There are certain things that are made in certain ways—there is no short cut.”
Chris Bianco adds, “Phoenix is lucky to have Gianni” and I could not agree more. Go and visit before Gianni’s second retirement.
shots from the Andreoli Christmas party
Farnata (chickpea flour) with stracchino
Andreoli Italian Grocer, 8880 E. Via Linda, Scottsdale, (NW corner of 90th Street and Via Linda, in the Fry’s Marketplace shopping center); www.andreoli-grocer.com; (480) 614-1980
Upcoming Easter Party Menu
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I haven't been to Binkley's in a while and while the food looks technically amazing, I almost feel like it is getting overworked and overcomplicated. Maybe on some dishes all those flavors work, but I just can't imagine wanting that many "challenging" dishes thrown at me during one meal. Those kind of dishes should be spaced out over several courses to add interest to the meal at a point when the diner is getting comfortable- not a series of punches thrown in combination. I don't know, I guess what I'm trying to say is, that (like The French Laundry) I liked the style of the food better when they first opened.
One thing that may throw off your analysis is that I ask him to throw me all his amuses so I can see them, but a typical tasting does not have 15 amuses.
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February 21, 2008
From the Arizona Republic:
Painted Horse Cafe...Food Critic Howard Seftel enjoys the cuisine of Chef Bryan Elliot at the Painted Horse Cafe.
Howard's recent updates...Bourbon Steak at the Princess Resort opens, Estate House at the Southbridge opens, Digestif at the Southbridge opens (this looks to be a good one), Cafe Bink opens, Radio Milano changes the menu.
From the Phoenix New Times:
Ranch House Grille...Bombay Spice...Food Critic Michele Laudig's latest reviews feature a great breakfast spot ,Ranch House Grille ,and Indian food on the healthy side, Bombay Spice.
Michele Laudig's Blog "Chow Bella"...Keep up with Michele by reading her blog...Chow Bella.
From the Tucson Citizen:
Fred's Arena Bar and Steakhouse...Food Critic Tom Stauffer gets his cowboy steak on at Fred's Arena Bar and Steakhouse.
From the Tucson Weekly:
Taco Giro Mexican Grill...Jimmy Boegle dishs out the love for Taco Giro Mexican Grill.
OPA!...Rita Connelly feels that OPA! is great addition to the Campbell restaurant row.
Noshing Around with Karyn Zolden...Karyn Zolden checks in with the culinary goings on in the Old Pueblo.
Good Eating,
Molto E
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February 8, 2008
Bourbon Steak...Howard Seftel previews the opening of Michael Mina's Bourbon Steak at the Fairmount Scottsdale Princess.
Union Wine Bar & Grill Closes...Howard reports that Tom Kauffman has closed his small plates concept Union Wine Bar & Grill after a very short run. I ate at Union a number of times and enjoyed it, but most diners did not get the small plates concept. The upside of this is that opening Chef Charlene Badman has returned to Rancho Pinot and I think it has raised the cuisine up another notch.
Carey Sweet's Dining Column...Carey details the new venture of Chef Eddie Matney and the Taste of the NFL.
From the Phoenix New Times:
Aiello's Fine Italian Dining...Food Critic Michele Laudig dishs up the love for the new Italian spot on Central, Aiello's Fine Italian Dining.
Michele Laudig's Blog "Chow Bella"...Keep up with Michele by reading her blog,"Chow Bella".
From the Tucson Citizen:
Sam Hughes Place Championship Dining...Food Critic Tom Stauffer gives an uneven account of Sam Hughes Place Championship Dining.
Bistro Philippe Opens...Tom Stauffer previews the partnership of Restauranteur Bob McMahon and Chef Philippe Trosch in the space that used to house Firecracker.
From the Tucson Weekly:
El Saage...James Reel reviews the new Lebanese offering El Saage.
Noshing Around with Karyn Zolden...Karyn Zolden checks in with the culinary goings on in the Old Pueblo.
Yum...The Tucson Weekly's new issue of Yum...
Good Eating,
Molto E
Greater Phoenix Dining: Where To Eat?
in Southwest & Western States: Dining
Posted
Downtown-Roosevelt Tavern-great selections of beers and good comfort bar food
Sens-soup gyuza dumplings very good
Breadfruit-Jamaican, I have not been there but heard good things
Lo-Lo's Fried Chicken and Waffles- Lunch
Matt's Big Breakfast-Breakfast and Lunch