ronnie_suburban
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Posts posted by ronnie_suburban
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We've been getting lunch from Pita Inn (Skokie) on a regular basis for at least the last 15 years and no one in my office has noticed any (significant) drop in quality. We don't order everything on the menu but we do order a pretty wide range of items. I don't believe the portions have gotten any smaller over that time either. Our one complaint might be that the food is a bit more inconsistent than it used to be, which we simply attribute to how busy they are and employee turnover.
SW, what kind of quality drop-off have you noticed?
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Actually, employee turnover at Pita Inn is much lower than average for the industry.
I've fressed there since 1989, and I know some employees have been there ever since. I know most of the employees by name, and they all say that Falah (the owner) treats them very well. Smart business practice, since well-trained employees and consistent faces behind the counter make the place consistent.
Really that's not surprising at all...it seems like he has devised a winning formula. Every once in a while I see a new face behind the counter, but not too often.
We actually ordered it for lunch today (this thread inspired it) and it was terrific.
I had the shish kabob plate...tender and flavorful...and a little taste of shawarma - Yum!
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I think it would be interesting if Anthony Bourdain entered the picture as a "specialty guest advisor" to Rocco's and helped clean up this train wreck.
LOL! Tony's too good for Rocco
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We've been getting lunch from Pita Inn (Skokie) on a regular basis for at least the last 15 years and no one in my office has noticed any (significant) drop in quality. We don't order everything on the menu but we do order a pretty wide range of items. I don't believe the portions have gotten any smaller over that time either. Our one complaint might be that the food is a bit more inconsistent than it used to be, which we simply attribute to how busy they are and employee turnover.
SW, what kind of quality drop-off have you noticed?
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Note: There is an interview with Topher Goodman, conducted by our user TrishCT, in today's Daily Gullet.
Excellent interview...really elicited good responses.
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In regard to "brand Rocco," does anyone have the new issue of The New Yorker (the family issue)? Between pages 76 and 77 there's an ad insert for Ruffino and I swear, Rocco is in the ad. I handed the ad to my husband and said "what do you see?" and his response was "that's Rocco."
My copy arrived today and yes, that's definitely him.
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That reminds me, I saw Rocco's mug on a pasta pot at Target this weekend. I can't remember the brand--but there he was on the box "the only pot imported from Italy" or something like that on it.
Ugh...what will the marketing whizzes come up with next?
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I wonder if that manky gunk is still dripping from the ceiling?
Yeah, what was that...decomposing rodentia?
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Some financial details about Rocco and The Restaurant...not sure if this info has been previously cited on this thread. The story was sent to me by my friend Andrea...
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And, by the way, I just checked and there isn't one single brisket recipe in the eGRA.
As an experiment I made a smoked brisket yesterday that turned out wonderfully. I can 't decide whether or not it's worth giving it a try at Rosh Hashana. I fear it might be received with complaints.
The only sure fire way to work it in would be to make my traditional brisket and then also offer this. But, I'm already going to be stressed enough, and this is basically just more work disguised as a brisket.
I do have a very good, tried and true, brisket recipe if anyone would like it.
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I've been lurking this thread for quite some time and we'd love to be a part of this gathering but it seems unlikely. Once the date is set, we'll give it our best shot to attend (if'n that's okay with everyone).
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Yes, I think so. Topher seemed to just give up any vestige of hope that the place could run well at all.
Yeah, that's probably true. Perhaps he had the wisdom to know that a vespa wasn't going to make him happy for very long--even if he had asked for and received one. It just seemed, from the way the show was edited, that his leaving had something to do with not receiving one.
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Also, was the actual Post review mentioned at all in this episode? It seemed to be the "cliffhanger" last week, and I don't remember it being mentioned once. Maybe I wasn't fully alert--I usually try to drink when I watch this show...
There was the line about the food being 'piping cold' which Rocco repeated at some point during the hour. That was from Linda Stasi's column.
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I know this isn't PC, but I was particularly happy to see the departure of that whining little fag, Topher.
In the previous week's episode he came off as tempermental but still professional. Well, at least he seemed like the kind of server you'd want as a diner...that he'd do a lot to make sure everyone at your table had exactly what they needed.
But, this week that all unravelled. Not only did he walk out rigth before the shift started but he got so very jealous about Lola receiving the Vespa. Then, when Rocco and Laurent were talking to him, asking him specifically if there was something they could do to talk him out of leaving, he didn't even have the nerve to ask for what he wanted.
He really came off terribly on a few levels this time around.
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If your family is anything like ours, nothing weird or innovative, because it won't be appreciated.
Truer words were, unfortunately, never spoken...
I always try to work something new into the menu as an add-on, but if I take any of the standard issue stuff off the menu, it's met with a near shunning.
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This thread is now officially dead.
...well, at least until tomorrow night's episode airs...
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Thanks Dean for posting this...I so want to try Spring. Can't wait to do so.
Sounds like you guys had a great meal and a great time too.
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I have never been surprised by people's misconception of thier own importance. The FOH bitch session about the concept of the restaurant was hilarious. They thought they had something at stake because of thier positions. Thats laughable, Rocco or Chowdrow or NBC put up 4 million dollars so they could make the decisions on the concept of the place. If Topher, or Pete or Gideon want to make those decisions go down to the bank sign away everything you own (hair gel, playstation 2, bling bling, and thier parent's house) and feel free to give it a try. Maybe then you would want to know how the busboy thinks you should serve the appetizers.
Yeah, I was amused by that sequence too. I think the complaints may have been valid in their content, but it certainly isn't a staffer's (i.e. non financial risk-taker) place to make them unless otherwise solicited by ownership/management. I'm sure folks who coughed up the $4M for this venture couldn't care less what those who didn't have to say about it--especially since the backers have a history of previous successes.
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Although I agree with a lot of what you are saying, Rocco made it clear from the begining that this was "OUR" restaurant. Not only was feed back wanted it also seemed expected, it felt like a dream job. Come to find out he was to busy to care (not that blame him at all). That's why the bitch session.
To paraphrase a great line from Animal House...'you f*cked up, you trusted him.'
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I have never been surprised by people's misconception of thier own importance. The FOH bitch session about the concept of the restaurant was hilarious. They thought they had something at stake because of thier positions. Thats laughable, Rocco or Chowdrow or NBC put up 4 million dollars so they could make the decisions on the concept of the place. If Topher, or Pete or Gideon want to make those decisions go down to the bank sign away everything you own (hair gel, playstation 2, bling bling, and thier parent's house) and feel free to give it a try. Maybe then you would want to know how the busboy thinks you should serve the appetizers.
Yeah, I was amused by that sequence too. I think the complaints may have been valid in their content, but it certainly isn't a staffer's (i.e. non financial risk-taker) place to make them unless otherwise solicited by ownership/management. I'm sure folks who coughed up the $4M for this venture couldn't care less what those who didn't have to say about it--especially since the backers have a history of previous successes.
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EJRothman wrote...
Being that it is a fictionalized version of reality it has been edited so things go badly, then get better, and Rocco triumphs in the end. Of course, I don't know this will be the case, but I'd be willing to bet on it.I'd bet on it too.
EJRothman also wrote...
Lastly, and this is sort of the overarching theme, I guess - The field of Political Science teaches (basically) that people are stupid. That's why people don't vote, don't know the issues, and plain don't care. Same holds true for this show. No one will remember the disasters (especially after Rocco's triumphant finale) and even so, no one will care. They will go, they will eat, they will be impressed. There is no way that Rocco's career will be anything but bolstered by this venture, he has exposure and that is all that matters.Sadly, I agree. He'll likely be remembered simply as "that cute chef who had the reality show" by most folks. People here know better, most others don't.
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I was at the Gibson's on Rush for a dinner on July 20 and it was fantastic. We were in the private room upstairs and they absolutely doted on us. The meal itself was also outstanding and I didn't hear anyone in our group of 15 say anything negative about the meal. Still, my experiences there have been erratic over the years.
I've ended my meals there feeling everything from 'never again' to 'why not every week?' I once hosted a biz dinner at the Rosemont location that was so bad I was embarrassed that we had suggested it in the first place. But, this last time out was stellar.
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Vienna Beef actually makes their kosher dogs with plastic casing, I saw it on the PBS Hot Dog show.
...just splitting hairs, but I'm almost certain that Vienna hot dogs are 'kosher-style' but not actually kosher. My grandfather was a kosher butcher on the South Side many years ago and through some sort of familial osmosis, this tid-bit of near useless knowledge has come to rest in my brain.
Either way, they are my favorite brand of hot dog. It's what I grew up with. (sorry Gramps)
And I agree about Manny's being in a class by itself, although I am certainly mining this thread for new places to try.
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Ronnie - Naha was a great choice. It's a really wonderful, unsung place which seems to be overshadowed by the likes of neighbors like Frontera Grill, Spago, and Keefers, but it really is one of the best offerings in the city. You celebrated well, and didn't miss a beat in the telling, so I thank you.
Happy Birthday!
Dawn,
It's funny you mention that because when I first learned we were going there, I was a little disappointed--not because I didn't think it would be good--but only because there are many, more renowned places in town that I still haven't tried. However, after the experience we had there, well...needless to say, I'm really happy that Julie chose it.
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Where do I begin? First, as much as I appreciate the world of fine dining, being the father of a 6 year old boy tends to impede the frequency with which I am able to experience it. Babysitters, while more plentiful than in days past, are still a limited resource for us. And, as such, our fine dining experiences are few and far between. Each one is loaded with added pressure and urgency; the inevitable acknowledgement that “we don’t get to do this very often.” Add to that the unavoidable discomfort that is innately attached to a 40th birthday celebration and how can a restaurant, a mere foodservice establishment, possibly do anything but fail? Naha does not fail. Naha speaks to me. Naha blows me away.
We pull up to Naha, 500 N. Clark in Chicago. I’ve heard about it, I know it’s reputed to be good, I know it scored a 25 for food in Zagat, but wtf is it? I was about to enter the domain of Chef Carrie Nahabedian.
Super modern interior…simply beautiful. Gorgeous floors (were they stone, wood, both?...sorry, but I don’t remember), several eye-catching ‘horizons’ all over the place (the bar, the windows, the art), but comfortable and comforting with deep mahogany (I think) elements throughout the room . The feeling is modern but with a soul. For example, a large U-shaped pit lines three walls of the lounge. The pit is cushioned softly with many pillows covered in earth tone fabrics. Rather than being austere or antiseptic, it is unabashedly inviting. But, we follow the hostess past it.
We continue to our table and the place is 2/3 empty. It’s 6:45 p.m. in the Second City and we’re practically ‘early birds.’ We walk through the space, make a left just past the first room, and head down an aisle that runs between rows of white-clothed table tops. We next pass a row of perfectly positioned and tastefully executed tall grassy plants (ferns maybe) which divide the front room into 2 zones. We come to what is, in my mind, the best table in the house. Front corner, windows on 2 sides facing Clark and Illinois streets respectively. There’s plenty of elbow room and I ask Julie, my wife, to trade seats with me--I want to watch the room, not the street. Our friends, Michael and Carole, raise a collective eyebrow at me and sit down opposite each other.
The menu is problematic in the most fantastic of ways. I cannot focus. Everything looks delicious and interesting…really interesting. I can’t absorb what I’m reading. There are 11 appetizer choices and each one of them looks to be worth trying. There are 9 entrée choices and each one of them looks to be worth trying.
The waiter, Russ, comes by. Big smile, and very disarming. I know this guy, right? Not sure about that, but he’s so friendly-looking that I feel like I do. He’s a cross between Will Ferrell and Gary Carter. We order some wine, a 2001 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet. I don’t really know wine, but I know that every time someone has ordered Montrachet when I’ve been around, I’ve really dug it. This is no exception. It is rich and moderately acidic, perfectly light and clean. We sip it into oblivion before we order anything to eat.
After much deliberation and a wee bit of heart ache, we narrow it down to 4 appetizers and leave several that sound great in the rear-view mirror.
Here’s what we order (directly from the menu):
Carole…Sweet Corn Soup, Roasted Red Corn, ‘Peeky Toe’ Crabcake, Wood-Grilled Yellow Peppers and Micro Greens.
Michael…Tartare of Native ‘Big Eye’ Tuna and Cured King Salmon with a Mosaic of Vegetables, Nicoise garnishes, Aigrelette Sauce and Toasted Brioche.
Julie…Gratin of Asparagus and Parmesan Cheese, Relish of Eggplant, Tomatoes and Genovese Basil.
Me...’Hudson Valley’ Foie Gras and Roasted Apricot ‘Tarte Tatin’, Green Peppercorns and ‘Minus 8’ Infused Natural Jus.
You see where this is going…lol. Un-frigging-believable. I taste all 4 appetizers and let me assure you that each one is special. Of course everything looks beautiful--the plates are works of art--but that is just subterfuge. This is real food, real portions and bold flavors--both familiar and innovative. But moreover, there is that capricious sense of humor that comes across loud and clear when the chef communicates with you through the artistry that is her cuisine. Yes, it’s still eating and the food itself is amazing, but there’s so much more going on. At the core of it, this is a case of one imagination communicating with another and the language is food.
How can I begin to describe the combinations of flavors, aromas, textures and overall presentations that we experienced during that first course? I’m going to try, but words cannot do justice to the multi-sensory orgy that took place at our table. It was synaesthetic overload.
It starts with a bottle of 2001 DuMol Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and steamrolls along from there. Generally speaking, Pinot Noir is probably my favorite red wine. The DuMol is a near-perfect rendition of it. It is smooth and bright at the start, devoid of any ‘woodsy’ notes, and it carries a slightly tannic note, followed by fruit at the end. Its shimmering ruby color screams, “drink me!”
The corn soup is sublime. Rich and creamy with undertones of peppers, the soup conveys the uniquely savory sweetness that epitomizes roasted corn. It is elegant, satisfying and comforting. The color is a deep and glorious gold and the kernels of roasted red corn punctuate it perfectly on at least three levels (visual, taste and texture). Zen in a bowl. The tender crabcake--an island in the center of the bowl--and delicious in its own right, is delightful overkill.
The tartare is formed into a small and perfect tower about the circumference of a silver dollar and maybe 2 ½ inches high. The rest of the plate is decorated lovingly with the ‘mosaic’ of vegetables and garnishes and is flanked by 4 crustless points of brioche toast. The tartare itself is over the top. Fatty and rich, it’s foiled perfectly by the acidic tartness of the vegetables, garnishes and sauce. Michael passes me a toast point which is weighed down heavily with a large portion of the tartare mixture and topped with some of the veggies and garnishes and a bit of sauce. I plunk the whole thing into my mouth and let it melt away barely needing to chew it at all. I try (failing miserably) to pick out each separate flavor component as it dissolves in my mouth.
The gratin is wonderful. Of course the asparagus is cooked perfectly and looks beautiful. The parmesan is pungent and works perfectly in the dish, tying the asparagus to the other elements in the dish. Simple and graceful, this dish just screams “SUMMER.” What satisfaction.
The foie gras is to die for. It’s seared and crispy on the outside and soft and rich on the inside. The apricot ‘tarte tatin’ on top of which the slab of foie gras is stacked is concentrated and tart. The reduction is both savory and sweet and it ties the foie gras and the apricot elements together perfectly. I don’t want to share it, but I do let everyone at the table have a small taste. There is just nothing like the initial, crispy crunch of a perfectly cooked piece foie gras, especially when followed by such carefully selected and rendered complimentary elements.
It is at this point that something special happens which sets the tone for the rest of the evening. Without prompting, Russ brings me a small glass of 2001 Huber Riesling Icewine (Austria). He sets it on the table and says something to the effect of “you just can’t fully enjoy the foie gras without this.” It is awesome; deep gold in color and very sweet. Needless to say, it goes perfectly with the foie gras. I pass the glass around the table. “Yums” “Oh yeahs” all around. I’m happy that Russ seems to fully understand why we are there. We are foodies in search of glory. We haven’t simply stumbled into Naha, it is our destination.
Yes, this is fine dining, but that doesn’t stop me (a true Ruffian at heart) from grabbing a piece of freshly-baked crusty bread and sopping up every bit of sauce left on my foie gras plate. To not do so, would be a tremendous waste and a serious insult to Ms. Nahabedian. I know if I send the plate back with tongue marks on it, she might laugh like I did when I tasted the dish, but one has to draw the line somewhere, right?
After a first round like that, I can only begin to wonder with excitement what the entrees will be like. Again, there are several that we just have to pass on but here’s what we order (again, directly from the menu):
Carole…Wood-Grilled 16 oz. Prime ‘Delmonico’ Rib eye steak on the bone with a Gratin of Macaroni and Goat Cheese, Oven-Cured Tomatoes, Oxtail Red Wine Sauce and ‘Fleur de Sel’.
Michael…Hot-Smoked and Mustard Seed Glazed Alaskan King Salmon with Oyster Mushrooms, Green Lentils, Savoy Cabbage and Sweet Onions, Balsamic Syrup and English Thyme.
Julie…Whole Roasted Baby Chicken, Warm ‘Red Thumb’ Potato Salad with Wood-Grilled Amethyst Onions, Applewood Slab Bacon, Hard-Cooked Quail Eggs and Marjoram.
Me…Rabbit and Yukon Potato Gnocchi with Roasted Radicchio, English Peas, Goldbar Squash and Summer Savory.
The bottle of Pinot is now empty, and our entrees are on the way. I have to make one more wine choice. WTF do I know about wine? I’m thinking Cabernet or Bordeaux. I consult Russ who, I think, is actually having some fun with us. He agrees with the cabernet choice and asks what I have in mind…do you want something ‘big’? Well, after the 2 previous bottles of excellent wine and given our entrée choices, where is there to go but ‘big’?
He recommends a 2000 Leonetti Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon from the Walla Walla Valley. In a million years, I never would have chosen a Cabernet from Washington State. This is why I am happy to have him make the suggestion. I really learn something. As he places the cork in front of me, he makes a point of telling me that it is the ‘best bottle of wine in the house’. After tasting it, I can hardly disagree although it would be wonderful to know it with certainty.
The Leonetti is big. It has a luxurious garnet-red color. The initial flavor is bold, deeply fruity and somewhat spicy and it has that textbook Cabernet finish, somewhere between oak and butter, which I love.The entrees arrive and they are breath-taking. The salmon is outstanding. In spite of the fact that it is a huge piece of fish, the smoky flavor is present even in the very center of the large portion Michael sends my way. The lentils and mushrooms are beautiful and delicious and the balsamic syrup ties all the components together cleverly.
Carole’s steak is classic. Cooked medium-rare, it is as soft as butter. The cured tomatoes are out of this world; bright, salty, sweet and seriously smoky. The gratin of Macaroni and Goat Cheese is truly unique. Not only is it beautiful with an inviting layer of golden brown ‘something crunchy’ atop it, but it tastes amazing. It must contain a good deal of brown butter because the initial taste and aroma are almost toffee-like. But, the finish is decidedly savory and rich and even though it is goat cheese, it doesn’t taste overly-goatey (is that a word?).
Julie’s baby chicken is even better. The applewood bacon provides the base line of flavor upon which her amazing plate is conceived and constructed. Of course the chicken is crispy on the outside and memorably tender on the inside, but that barely begins to describe how wonderful it is. The flavors of chicken, bacon and onion create a synergy that is entrancing. The quail eggs make for a wonderful accent and the warm potato salad is not only tasty, but is a perfect vehicle for sopping up the delicious juices on her plate. I should mention that the plate is scattered with many chunks of the perfectly cooked and still crispy bacon, each one like a little treasure.
The rabbit is tender and flavorful. I expect it to be served ‘on the bone’ but I am not disappointed to see that the meat is already in nicely-sized pieces. I think, by this point, the wine will greatly affect my ability to navigate the bones <g>. The gnocchi are pan-fried and golden brown--a little crispy on the outside and then tender and light throughout. The sauce, which is more of a broth, is slightly reduced, meaty and rich. On that note, the squash, radicchio, peas and savory which accompany the rabbit, could be a meal unto themselves. I cannot believe how addictive the combination of flavors is. When I finish every forkable bite in the bowl, I wish for a straw to drink up the remaining broth. Again, the bread is beautifully functional in that regard.
We have created some serious momentum. So much so that under other circumstances we might skip dessert or maybe split one or two of them. But, we have to follow this path to its end. We cannot not deviate. We order cappuccinos and 4 desserts. Russ offers to bring us a sampling of dessert wines. We happily accept. He brings us more of the Icewine and also some 2001 Gordon Brothers Late Harvest Gewurztraminer (Columbia Valley).
The desserts are as follows (again, directly from the menu)…
Bittersweet Chocolate Tart, Rich ‘Tanzanie’ Chocolate Ice Cream and Port Syrup.
Upside Down Roasted Pineapple ‘Financier’ Cake with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream.
Tahitian Vanilla Bean Crème Brulee, Lemon Sorbet and Madeleines.
Almond Infused Goat’s Milk Cheesecake, Poached Summer Bing Cherries and Candied Lemon Ice Cream.
The desserts are all wonderful. I think the crème brulee and the cheesecake are somewhat redundant but both are still a lot of fun. In both cases highly flavorful and tart fruit is foiled nicely by the sweet creaminess of the main item. With the cheesecake, the fruit is some seriously infused bing cherries and with the brulee some very small and delicate berries. The pineapple cake is outstanding. It’s tender and sweet and the tiny and perfectly cut pieces of ‘brunoise’ pineapple are perfect texture-wise. They have a slight bite to them, followed by softness.
But, the chocolate tart is the trump card. It’s bitterness is offset by the scoop of beautifully rich (lighter chocolate) ice cream perched atop it. That scoop is, in turn, topped by a circular piece of what appears to be caramelized sugar, but somehow infused with chocolate flavor. Along the side of the bowl is written in some sort of chocolate syrup, the words “Happy Birthday”, thankfully, the restaurant’s only allusion to the occasion.
I’m not good at conceiving or making desserts so I’ll never understand how to construct a complex one. In my mind, marrying four different chocolate flavors would be akin to wearing four different shades of green. Shouldn’t they clash? By all empirical measure, yes. But this is altogether different. It reminds me that, when it comes to preparing food, especially desserts, I really know nothing.
We sit and chat while we finish our cappuccinos, sip the wines and pick at the desserts which were augmented when Russ brings out 2 sets of ‘3 dessert bites’. My memory is somewhat blurry here…one is possibly a little shortbread cookie, one is a flavored piece of chocolate candy or fudge and one is a little donut nugget, freshly-prepared and covered in crunchy cinnamon sugar. Yummy!
Finally, I can eat no more. We push up from the table and head for the exit. The place is completely full and totally alive. It’s 9:45, prime time in the Second City. I ask Russ to please tell the kitchen staff how much we appreciate all the hard work they’ve done on our behalf.
As we walk to the door, the hostess asks me “how was everything?” I laugh. I tell her “words cannot describe it.” Maybe what I should have said was “I’m going to have to write 5+ pages just to describe this experience in a completely inadequate way.” But what choice do I have? The meal is now a memory that I want to hold on to forever. In documenting it, I hope to prevent it from fading away and savor it for as long as possible.
500 N. Clark St.
Chicago, IL
312 321-6242
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Well, it wasn't Spring. We ended up at Naha...a truly memorable experience. I'll start another thread sometime soon...
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Pita Inn in Skokie
in The Heartland: Dining
Posted
Not being 'overwhelmed' is simply a matter of taste and on that issue we can happily agree to disagree.
A place either does it for you or it doesn't. I will definitely try Pita Town (on your recommendation) some time in the near future and I appreciate the tip.
I didn't know that PI's prices hadn't changed since 1989, but if that is the case, with multiple locations, I'll bet that the owners can still generate more total net profit even if they are operating with a smaller percentage net margin. As we all know (and as Fresser detailed so nicely
), there are several reasons for that. In either case, I've always considered it a quality 'cheap eat', so I certainly don't begrudge the owner if he went through a period where he was making an 'obscenely high' margin--especially since he was able to turn out such a decent product at a relatively low cost. I can't say I've ever encountered anyone who didn't think that PI was a good value. If the alternative is true and he's skimping on the ingredients now to stretch his margin, it certainly doesn't show up in the food. IMO, the nature of the cuisine doesn't lend itself well to doing so anyway.
FWIW, I sell industrial ingredients and many items we sell are currently at historical price lows. I don't know if that would apply to the ingredients that PI buys, but it may. Are beef, rice, lettuce, etc. really more expensive now, than they were 15 years ago? I honestly don't know the answer to that question. I'm sure that data exist somewhere. I can say that at my company, prices on many of our items are actually lower than they were 15 years ago and we are a growing company which hasn't acquired any other companies.
Anyway, it's fun to debate but main thing I'm taking out of this conversation is your tip about Pita Town. It's always great to try to a new place--especially when it's recommended by someone who has a love of the game.
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